• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.55-64
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• 2024

This study investigated the usage and product conditions of clothing companies and online dummy companies for the development of fitting dummy for South Korean women's wear in their 50s and 60s. These women-targeted apparel companies mainly used nude-sized torso type and torso crotch type made of FRP material. The frequency of use of the dummies was high, while the user satisfaction was moderate. Users expressed dissatisfaction with the inaccurate reflection of the body shape according to the KS sizing system and the measurements such as the front and back intercye, upper arms, abdomen, crotch, and waist back length. Upon survey, 73.7% of the respondents answered that development of the dummy and the appropriate age for it is 50 to 54, and they preferred the torso crotch form. In the production of online dummy companies, the torso crotch type and torso type were most widely produced, and polyurethane, FRP, and recycled paper materials were used. The size of dummy was expressed in numerical type, and 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 and 44, 55, 66, 77, 88 were being produced. Even models of the same size had significant deviation, especially in the waist circumference. Also, there was no dummy reflecting 25%~75% center interval to the KS garment sizing standards of women in their 50s and 60s. Therefore, it is desperately necessary to develop a fitting dummy for KS clothing sizing system that reflect their body sizes and shapes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.139-150
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• 2013

Fast fashion companies have generated enormous amounts of clothing and large quantities of unsold or short-lived clothing end up in the landfill. As if to counter fast fashion, sustainable fashion has arisen for environmentally friendly garments at different levels from the fiber stage to production stage. However it is still fraught with uncertainty of systems in the industry. Therefore, this study proposed a system to create re-valued clothing from recycled garments for retailers. The target companies are large-sized retailers like Levi's, Polo, Gap, or J-Crew which are consistently producing basic items such as Levi's 501 or Classic Polo shirts with middle-prices. At the material stage, this study recommended additional requirements of designing a garment with a long life cycle based on criteria of an ideal garment developed by Patagonia clothing company. Then, this study explored innovative ways that retailers might connect with consumers to allow direct interaction between them in terms of the process of collecting used clothes. Using recycled clothing as a source material, this study strove to offer a process of redesign where the concept of 'waste to fashion' is developed as reconstructions where old forms are transformed into new ones.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제42권7호
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• pp.63-72
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• 2004

This study discussed the dyeing of wool and cotton fabrics with Betel Palm Tree White woolen fabrics and cotton fabrics purchased from HATH (Korea Apparel Testing ＆ Research Institute) were used as experimental fabrics. Using dyeing powder extracted from dyeing material, various temperatures, dyeing times, and pH were used in the dyeing process. Al, Cr, Fe, Cu, and Sn were used as mordant and the absorption was compared with different mordanting methods. The optimum condition for pre-mordanting dyeing was dye concentration of 25% (o.w.f) and mordant concentration of 0.5$^{\circ}$∼1%. Woolen fabric showed an increase of absorption and the maximum absorption was achieved at weak acidity. According to the mordanting methods, woolen fabrics and cotton fabrics were treated with various mordanting agents, a mordant rate of 1:100, at 60$^{\circ}C$, for 30 minutes and dyed with a dyeing material concentration of 25% (o.w.f), at a rate of 1:100, at 60$^{\circ}C$ for 60 minutes. The best dyeing effect w3s achieved at the temperature of 60$^{\circ}C$ for cotton and 80$^{\circ}C$ for wool fabrics. The light fastness of cotton and wool fabrics was low and particularly the fastness to perspiration was decreased with Fe mordanting. I concluded that pre-mordanting method was better than post-mordanting method for cotton and woolen fabrics.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.83-92
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• 2003

This study aims to classify women's undergarments of the 20th century by periods, and to examine their characteristics. The research method consists of a literature study based on relevant documentary records and a demonstrative analysis of graphic data collected from each reference. The features of women's undergarments obtained from the study are as follows: First, silhouette changes of outer garments appear to influence the type and style of a new undergarment. Second, technological development results in a new type of undergarments. Third, the development of new material appears to influence functions and design of undergarments. Fourth, social changes including the development of sports affects the changes of undergarments. As seen so far, the form or type, material, and color in undergarment diversify when fashion changes become varied and rapid. As shown before the 20th century, the importance of undergarment's type, form, and function gradually reduces according to the changes of women's mind due to their social participation, although it still plays a role in correcting the shape of an outer garment based on the outer silhouette. The design also clearly shows the extremes of maximization and minimization of decoration.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.53-64
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• 2008

This study defined luxury hanbok, categorized its consumers according to their lifestyles, and examined the differences between the lifestyle groups in preferred images of luxury hanbok and consumer habits. The subjects of the study were 216 luxury hanbok consumers resident in Seoul. The various types of statistical analyses used in this study were frequency, factor analysis, Cronbach's a, cluster analysis, ANOVA, Duncan-test and $X^2$-test. The results of this study were as follows: 1. The lifestyle of luxury hanbok consumers was classified broadly into 4 groups as: brand oriented, economic/appearance oriented, family oriented/socially oriented, self-driven/economic oriented. 2. The preferred images included these five factors: splendor, elegance, uniqueness, simplicity and tradition. The elegant image was aspired to by the brand oriented group. Meanwhile, the traditional image is sought after by both the brand oriented group and the economic/appearance oriented group. 3. The lifestyle groups differed significantly in the selection criterion such as material, brand and rarity. The brand oriented group placed greater importance on material, brand and rarity than other groups. 4. In addition, each group differed in their frequency of purchase, price range, and demographic characteristics.

• 복식
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• 제54권4호
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• pp.129-144
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• 2004

The modems who lives complicated society, the silence which the Orient thought asserts leads and to get comfortable. It is becoming, the like this social atmosphere will in the interest regarding a manual example and the Orient material, the use of the embroidery textile goods is increasing specially. The purpose of this article is to suggest a model for development of machine embroidery fabric material and highly value added apparel industries. The multi-headed embroidery machine where the application scope is wide from the dissertation, we are requested' NaNa company'. The multiheaded embroidery machine uses TAJIMA TMFD-G620 and SUNSTAR SWF-／B-WD(X) 620-100 the embroidery textile uses the silk, the cotton and the synthesis fertile goods etc 24 type, the embroidery thread Maraton thread(viscose rayon 100％) with used the cord. The 8 Korean motives are made on 23 fabrics, 6 of which are full-sized manufactured one-pieces and the other 17 of which are produced to home interior goods such as curtains or fashion accessories like handbags as simulations. Among the products, the pattern-4-1 and the pattern-4-2 are contracted with local fashion industry, and the pattern-1-1～3 are dealing with other companies in Japan. The computerized machine-embroidering and simulation producing of fashion items are available to reduce the cost in making samples and transfer the old labor ＆ toil-centered industry into the new technique ＆ knowledge centered one.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.41-51
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• 2012

Polyester is mainly used as a bedding filler material. PLA fiber as an eco-friendly material for substituting polyester has a low melting temperature and therefore a hardening process is impossible. This study is to develop the oil for feather touch that can treat at the melting temperature of PLA. The slippery and soft aminosilicone emulsion, and the bulky epoxysilicone emulsion were used. They had proper viscosity and particle size for flexibility and elasticity. When using methoxy aminosilane [$H_2NSi(OCH_3)_3$] as an aminosilane and [$Zn(OCOCH_3)_2$] as a catalyst, the hardening reaction was fast and effective. Feather touch process were treated by 2 steps. At first step, aminosilicone emulsion, epoxysilicone emulsion and methylaminosilane were mixed and homogenized, and at second step, 5% blened solution of the first step, Zn catalyst 1%, distilled water 94% were treated at PLA fiber. After treatment the static friction coefficient and dynamic friction coefficient were reduced to 23.5-60.8% and 30.0-61.3% respectively, and the laundry and sun light fastnesses have not shown any decrease.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권4호
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• pp.139-146
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to analyze the efficiency and working conditions of the patternwork departments by surveying the apparel manufacturing companies sampled in Seoul for their organization, working enviornment and technology of their patternwork departments, and thereby, find the ways to promote the functions of the patternwork department. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. As a result of analyzing the working environment of patternwork departments, it was found that the problems counted by most of the pattern workers were lack of workforce, unhygienic or unpleasant workplaces. 2. As a consequence of analyzing the sample production in terms of tacking methods and times, They rarely tacked the white cotton. Such an omission of tacking procedure may serve to save time, but if a sewing error occurs, the working time would rather be longer due to the defects of pattern to be remedied. 3. As a result of reviewing the general patternwork conditions, it was found that the patterns were still worked out in two dimensions. On the other hand, more than 60% of the pattern workers were applying to their patternworks the styles which they had learned from their seniors. Few patterns are being developed in conformity to apparel trends or body shape changes. 4. As a consequence of examining the problems involving the production of patternsl, the problems involved primarily the patterns incised off no-dart pattern and body structure, and in light of items, involved mainly the trousers and in light of material, involved much the stretch or velvet. Moreover, it is deemed necessary to establish a special institute devoted to a systematic development of pattern technology. 5. Most of the CAD patternworks are used not for pattern designing but for grading and marking works, which suggests that pattern workers need to be educated on this new technology for more diverse and precise patternworks. 6. Lastly, as a result of examining the conditions of patternwork departments and their relevant works, most of the pattern workers were found to be subject to irregular and excessive workload, having little time to produce good patterns. This finding suggests that it is necessary to mandate the pattern workers to more involve the commodity planning.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.104-116
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• 2004

Kanga is a type of cotton clothes with splendid patterns that East African women throw on their bodies. It first appeared in the East African shores in the mid-nineteenth century. A new style of squared handkerchiefs brought to Africa by Portuguese merchants for the first time was referred as to leso of which early designs were in a basic form of white dots on dark background. Consumers called such material by kanga as they began mentioning its craftiness and comparing its elegant nature to a sociable red rooster and graceful feathers. From the early 1990s, Swahili characters have been embroidered in designs of kanga, mainly consisted of proverbs. Kenya's kanga products are widely known and well represented whereas Tanzania makes the best use of it for political and social events. Fascinating and practical kanga has established its position as an essential part of East African cultures that is being well received as a fashion style there in these days.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.147-158
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• 1999

The Purpose of this study is to comprehend the form of Post-modernism in 1980~90 Fashion by comparing to the representative form of Modernism. For empirical data, photographs and critics about fashion were collected from Vogue fashion magazine to differentiate from other studies which is mostly analysed from collection. The results are as follows: The Modernism in fashion can be epitomized simple and functional form as a rational costume and Post-modern fashion expresses all sorts of emotion as a react of rational theme of modernism with manners of anti-formal pluralism such as pastiche, parody and Kitsch. The fashion in 1980-90s in Vogue expressed as follow :1) The Postmodernism is well exploited around 1990 and costrained by traditional and classical Mode. 2) The other main character of Postmodernism, romantic eroticism is broadly expressed with material and slim curved body conscious line. 3) The Modernism and Postmodernism coexisted in the end of 1990, in more matured format.