• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.15 no.3
• /
• pp.457-467
• /
• 2006

The following research compares two mostly-used apparel systems that are used in colleges of Korea, Gerber and PAD, by analyzing advantages and disadvantages of their Dart, Tuck and Pleats-related functions in pattern construction process. The results are the following: First, regarding transformation methods, Gerber system was able to use pivot method, while PAD system was able to use both pivot and slash method. As for movement, distribution, synthesis, folding, producing additional Dart function, the PAD system was not able to synthesize more than two Darts, and only showed differences for other functions. On the other hand, the diamond-shape Dart and diagonal Dart can be produced only in PAD system, while none of curvy shaped Dart can be produced in both systems. Second, as for pattern outer line connection capability, which is a Dart automatic transformation function, both systems showed unnatural shapes and need for correction. Third, when constructing according to the type of Tuck, we could distribute multiple Darts at a time with PAD system, while with Gerber system, distribution into multiple Darts at a time was impossible at all. Fourth, when constructing according to the contour of Pleats, Gerber system made it possible to make construction of multiple lines and box/inverted Pleats with just one order, but PAD system required repetitive tasks, which remains room for enhancement in regard to such inefficiency.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.11 no.6
• /
• pp.835-851
• /
• 2003

This study analyses patent information of apparel design using computer technology and researches the trend of patent application focused on International Patent Classification. In terms of trend by filling data, Patent application started first in 1974 and increased sharply in 1993 with 14 cases and increased to 25 cases in 2000. In case of Korea, they began somewhat late in 1996, but reached a similar level with the leading country in 2000. In terms of trend by applicant, Gerber Garment Technology, Inc. filed 7 cases TORAY IND INC, filed 6 cases Levi Strauss & Co. filed 4 cases, NEC HOME ELECTRONICS LTD filed 3 cases, TOYOBO CO LTD filed 3 cases. Japanese companies occupied 52% and United States's companies occupied 48%. In terms of trend by country, foreigner occupied 47% of the patents filed by United State. Japanese take up 10% of total patent of United States. Korean occupied 84% of total patent of Korea and foreigner, american occupied 16% of the patents filed by Korea. In regared to International Patent Classification, in the section level G filed 92 cases(53%). In class level, G06 marked the first place in United States, Japan, and Korea. In subclass level, G06F marksed the first place with 74 cases. G06T and A61B were regarded as the new technologies. The new technologies are representing the dimensions of garment or computer-rendered model, providing the virtual reality through the texture mapping, digital dressing room or virtual dressing, and performing or retriving display on a screen for the result of changing pattern ao dress design, The technologies of core patent are designing or producing custom manufactured item, providing or prealtering the data for pattern making and visually displaying, interactively generating or previewing of various articles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.22 no.3
• /
• pp.303-311
• /
• 1998

We developed a pattern drafting computer program using a popular CAD program for the purpose of the automatic manufacturing and education based on the concept of the easy -order-system which can easily reflect body characteristics and design favors of individuals to the ready-made clothing. The programs were written in Auto LISP which can utilise most of frictions of the Auto CAD, and the result of the design for an full-pleated skirt was shown. Also, we devised an easy way to set the location of reference points by inputting of tangential angle only for the use of the cubic spline curve which can represent body shape very well. Finally, by marking down all of symbols needed in manufacturing process, we completed the automatic pattern drafting program to make it useful as an industrial pattern without any amendment or correction in cutting and sewing operation.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.7 no.3
• /
• pp.27-37
• /
• 2005

This study is aimed at the ready-mades size system and satisfaction of consumers size for woman's wear at domestic market which are made by public production systems. This study, particularly, is focused on jacket of 20-30 aged woman's wear in twenties & thirties female clothe. The procedures of this study are as follows; 1. Select 25 domestic clothing companies that its product has targeted in twenties & thirties female and investigate the system of each pattern size 2. Select 259 female in twenties & thirties randomly in Seoul survey a standad of females jacket purchase. Analysis of this study is based on SPSS statistics program, technical statistics, $X^2$ and ANOVA verification. The results of studying are as follows; 1. The survey of pattern size of the domestic females clothing companies has shown some distinctive feature at age and body type of their consumers. 2. Crucial point of female consumers in twenties & thirties is a design and fitness of their jacket while they are purchasing their jacket. 3. Female consumers have some dissatisfaction for the variety of size, difficulty of purchasing and size of bust, shoulder & length of arms of their jacket.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.20 no.1
• /
• pp.49-61
• /
• 2012

This study focuses on looking at the influence of silhouette in the 1930s on fabric pattern design by comprehending how differently flower-pattern design were found according to clothing silhouette. The period scope of research was limited to 1930s, and the research object was set as the flower patterns seen in the designer's high-fashion and the women's daily apparel as well as the clothes for sports and leisure activities. Based on the above research scope, the researcher investigated the clothing silhouette and the textile patterns in 1930s by reviewing the literature about domestic and foreign books, research papers, domestic and foreign fashion magazines, information on the Internet. A glance at the women's clothing in the 1930s reveals that they emphasized something inactive, elegant, feminine and that great popularity was given to feminine silhouette that closely fitted the body and long and slim, as skirts became longer and longer. Like this, silhouette refused traditional methods in the technique of expressing flower patterns that were on-trend in that period, pursued the freedom of line and form, used shadowing technique by means of free pens and brushes and the effect of watercolors. It also arranged in a semitransparent way and painted contours alone, too. Flower patterns fell into two categories: amorphous abstract patterns and standardized abstract patterns. The patterns expressed themselves, divided into small-scale irregular patterns and abstract geometric patterns that filled the entire textile.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.10 no.6
• /
• pp.63-78
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this research is to propose the scientific and rational establishment of research projects and directions for research by analyzing the research trends on clothing construction. The 689 papers in the field of clothing construction are selected among 5433 papers published within the recent ten years (1996-2005) in Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, Journal of the Korean society of costumes, Research Journal of the Costume Culture, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing Industry and Journal of Fashion Business. The trend of researches on clothing construction is analyzed by classifying the topics by design, body type, pattern, size of apparel, fitting of clothing, protective clothing and functional clothing, and the others, and the results are as follows. The frequency order of the studies in the field of clothing construction is body type (32%) > pattern (24%) > size of apparel (13%) > protective clothing and functional clothing (10%) > the others (8%) > design-related clothing construction (6%) > fitting of clothing (4%) > sewing (3%). The major areas of research are body types, pattern, and sizes resulting from them. Most of researches are focused on women, and researches on men are relatively lacking. In addition to the deficiency of men-related research, Moreover, researches on characteristics of body types and on corresponding sizes of consumers in the target countries of export are necessary when the reality of Korean clothing and fashion industry that depends more on foreign demand than domestic demand is considered. For production of segmented and specialized results from clothing construction research, related tools such as CAD, 3D shape systems and dress form should be developed and utilized to contribute to precision of research results.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.53-64
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this study is to help efficient use of marking system and more competitive products manufacture through the actual investigation into manufacturing process of apparel products. For lack of the previous study on marking, fundamental survey was performed on systematic research for pattern marking in ready-made production line Data were collected from 36 companies using Apparel CAD/CAM through questionnaire and interview. The data were analyzed by using Frequency and Crosstabs utilizing SPSS. The results were as follows : 1. Marking situation in clothing companies were examined ; 24 companies(66.7%) use computer marking, and 12 companies(33.3%) have both computer marking and hand marking. Besides only 9 companies out of 36(25.0%) have CAM in cutting process. 2. The efficiency in marking methods was also studied and the expense-saved ways were presented. we have found there is no difference in a way of the textural efficiency but the working methods of hand marking and computer marking. 3. Merits and demerits in marking methods were investigated. In case of marking two men's wear (Jacket and Pants), it takes 38 minutes by hand whereas it takes 15 minutes by computer ; for two women's wear (Jacket and Skirt) 49 minutes by hand, and 16 minutes by computer. 4. Most of the markers have less than 5 years experiences and among them most women are less experienced. They are in the mid-twenties after college graduations.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.5 no.3
• /
• pp.260-266
• /
• 2003

The objective of this study is to compare the general body measurements and shoulder shapes of Korean and American elderly women to supply basic data for the apparel design. The anthropometrics data was collected including both direct and indirect measurements of 283 women over the age of 55 in Korean and the American women. The statistical methods used for the analysis of measurement data are the T-test, Exploratory data analysis, ANOVA and Duncan-test respectively. The results of the T-test indicated that there is a significant difference in the 14 body measurement items except of waist circumference. The results of exploratory data analysis, an independent relationship between shoulder slope angle and forward shoulder roll of Korean women. On the other hand, there is a dependent relationship that the bigger shoulder slope and forward shoulder roll with wide cross back shoulder of American women. Comparison of mean among the three different age groups, aged 55~59 group shows significant differences in the value of difference between cross back shoulders and horizontal shoulder width. This finding indicates that the wide and forward roll shoulder needs to special pattern making like ease amount and curvature for fit and comfort for women's apparel.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.25 no.1
• /
• pp.91-102
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study is to suggest a individually fitted slacks pattern in order to help ourselves prepared for the days of the order-based production like the EC in the apparel industry. A pattern was designed to make the personal fit improved based on the present study and the analysis of the measurements and the body shapes. The main characteristics of this newly designed slacks pattern are as follows. To improve fitting, the pattern requires more detailed data such as front and back waist arc, front and back hip arc, hip depth, the gradient of hip. And for personal fitted pattern, knee girth was established in the proportion to the hip girth and the crotch curve was adjusted to the measurements after drawing and the side seam curve was changed according to the front hip type and the ease in waist and hip was established by the percentage. Slacks pattern was developed into an automatic drafting program. Through the sensory evaluation for the appearance and moving fitness, newly designed slacks pattern was turned out to be improved in personal fit espacially for the body type out of the average.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.39 no.3
• /
• pp.457-467
• /
• 2015

The demand for coverall-type protective clothing are increasing in many industrial fields; however, it is impossible to evaluate the wearers' apparel fit because there is no commercialized pattern in the market. This study produces a manual for the process of acquiring patterns by separating PPE products into pieces to provide information on acquiring patterns. The analysis was on coverall-type non woven protective clothing in the domestic market, and 4 panels examined the validity, reliability, and efficiency of various possible methods on each step of process. Five steps were conducted to acquire patterns removing wrinkles, marking seams lines, separating seams, and pattern completing. The process of converting these into pattern files was designed through three procedures of digitizing, editing, and exporting and detailed stages. Fitting tests were undertaken, real patterns by actual modeling and pattern files by virtual modeling; all showed similar forms with outfits wearing ready-made protective coveralls. This study sought the most efficient and objective method of virtual modeling and proposed it as a manual. It is expected for the pattern reverse-designing manual through products analysis presented in this study that would be a helpful addition of information to the pattern tracing of pattern-less clothing products.