• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.91-103
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• 2014

Shirts which have been a inner-wear in men's suit in the past, are being changed into an item that 20's men utilize to their individuality. Dress shirts have gotten out of its shape, becoming tight and slim with activity and fashion trend. In this study, two patterns of fitted dress shirts in a clothing construction text book were compared with the pattern of an apparel company with regard to the size tolerance and appearance silhouette; this comparison was performed through a fitting test and an appearance evaluation. According to the study, size tolerance of chest girth and waist girth were about 6~8cm and 10~18cm, respectively. Neck girth of the collar was tight in both the fitting test and appearance evaluation. Thus, the measurement value of the neck base girth had to be used for the collar pattern making. Moreover, approximately 35cm is a moderate size for the width on the upper arm in sleeve. Therefor the factors such as size tolerance of waist girth, height of sleeve cap, slim sleeve width and measurement value of neck base girth are being considered for the pattern making of fitted dress shirts.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.119-126
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• 2010

We need to develop a target market for elderly women by increasing the ratio of functional apparel. The purpose of this study was to provide basic data for developing a Leisure Sports Jumper and improving the quality of life of clothing for female elderly consumers. This study reviewed the current situation on the production of the functional Leisure Sports Jumper for the elderly women in literature. For the experimental study, we selected Leisure Sports Jumpers from five apparel brands, and evaluated a sensory test on 20 subjects representing the average body shape of the elderly women aged from 65 to 75. After the first sensory test, we manipulated the patterns for samples of the Leisure Sports Jumper. In the second sensory test, visual and cognitive appropriateness of the Leisure sports jumpers were assessed by the elderly women. The results of the study were as follows: the Leisure Sports Jumper of brand 'C' showed the highest appropriateness in terms of neck, armholes, and sleeves among the 5 brands. The Leisure Sports Jumper of brands 'B' and 'D' showed the lowest appropriateness in the width of the armpits among the 5 brands. Except for the length of the Leisure Sports Jumper, the margin, location of the pocket, and armholes had the lowest score in the first test showing over 3.5 points.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.61-77
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to investigate difference and likeness on the form in women's Hanbok between the later Chosun Dynasty and modern times based on Belong's observing system for 'Apparel-Body Construct'. Belong's framework is composed 5 pairs of contrast word -'Closed or Open', 'Whole or Par', 'Planar Separation or Planar integration'. 'Flat or Rounded', and 'Determinate or Indeterminate'. Major findings of this study are as follows. First, the form of women's Hanbok in later Chosun Dynasty is 'Variably Closed', 'Part' and 'Rounded', whereas that in modern is 'Open', 'Whole' and 'Flat' Women's Hanbok of modern is lesser convex, and more open than that of later Chosun Dynasty according to increasing use of transparent textiles. Moreover, in comparison with old style, that of modern has the tendency of perceiving primarily whole feature by organic linkage of parts. Because of loose fit of Jeogori and rigid DongJong etc, characteristic of 'Plat' strengthened in modern Hanbok. Secondly, women's Hanbok in the later Chosun Dynasty and modern has common properties of 'Planar Seperation' and 'Determinate'. Women's Hanbok belongs to 'Planar Seperation', because the effect cognized to figure and ground. can be found between small parts and whole of Jegori, or can be found between the head and face. Jeuori and waist band, and Chima and under ware. Further more. it can be classified into 'Determinate'. because it use textiles which have no pattern un it or which show a subtle surface effect by texture changing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.741-756
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• 2017

The natural resources of Jeju are recognized as the new regional image of that clean island. Reflecting these trends, this study is initiated to develop a textile design with the motive of persimmon, a natural resource of Jeju, and to apply it to infant's and children's clothes. Its purpose is to highlight the image of persimmon, a traditional dye, as a regional signature for Jeju. Product development procedure included, understanding the use of persimmon for fashion products, analyzing Infants' and Children's designer collections over the last three seasons (focused on 2014S/S, 2015S/S, and 2016S/S), and surveying the Children's Clothes market for persimmon dyeing in Jeju. The conclusion was that, the natural resources of Jeju are highly valuable, and should be applied to textile design and apparel products for children. Utilizing Jeju persimmon was actively studied, but, the market for the Jeju persimmon natural - dyeing products is extremely limited. Moreover, the apparel products for infants and children represent old-fashioned styles, despite their higher prices. Therefore, using the formative characteristics of persimmon for each theme was suggested for development of patterns for textile design. Pattern designs were expressed using textured textile screen-printing, embroidery and $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ for infants' and children's clothes. In this study, a total of 10 items were prepared as apparel products for infants and children. All items were designed considering mix-and-match, potential, with each other or with regular mass-market products. These results are expected to contribute to highlighting the unique image of Jeju and to help promote fashion culture products.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.844-854
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• 2016

In order to understand the current state of production and pattern design of circular knitted jackets, this study selected 11 female clothing brands based from the "2012/2013 Korea Fashion Brand Yearbook" and interviewed the staff in charge of patterns at the companies. Polyester and polyurethane were found to be synthesized and used for the outshell of circular knitted jackets, alternatively natural fabric cotton or wool were synthesized with rayon. As for the structure of circular knitted materials, Ponte Di Roma knitting structure (a modified form of a double knit) was most often used. Surveying the use pattern and the parts for padding cloth, six responded that they used elastic padding cloth. As for circular knitted jackets with inner lining, elastic padding cloth was attached to all parts (front, back, side panel, and collar - except for sleeves) of the basic bodice pattern. Eight responded that they did not use a basic pattern when designing a pattern, which exceeds the majority. All respondents answered yes to the question on if there is any difference in designing a pattern for a woven jacket and a circular knitted jacket. It was found that they designed a pattern that considered shrinkage and elongation, which are the features of circular knitted fabric. Shrinkage and elongation were the features of a fabric material most considered when designing patterns for a circular knitted jacket.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.266-275
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• 2009

Variations of individual hip shapes are a major obstacle in pattern making for fitness. The drafting method is used for pattern making in today's apparel industry. Whilst catering to a limited number of information such as waist and hip sizes, this method does not cater to variations in hip shape. This paper describes the analysis of hip shapes using 3D body model and tries to make sure the relationship between hip shape and pattern by calculating hip angle and dart amount. We achieved results in analyzing various hip shapes by extracting hip angle. Moreover, various hip shapes can be divided into three types(A, B and C) by the hip angle value($K_{sh}-K_{wsh}$). When we use computerized draping method to make a personalized pattern for a tigth skirt, we easily create complex dart lines automatically. Therefore we achieve the result of individual dart amount such as distance between dart lines and dart areas. C type of hip shape had short dart length, long distance between dart lines and a large amount of dart area. On the other hand, A type had long dart length, short distance between dart lines and small amount of dart area. B type had long length and long distance between dart lines and large amount of dart area. In traditional pattern making, distance between dart lines is usually proportional to amount of dart area because of similarity in dart line shape. In our pattern, there is no proportional relationship between dart line distance and dart area. This means that variations in hip shapes result in a wide variety of dart line curvature resulting in a wide range of dart area. By ensuring an accurate relationship between hip shape and pattern, it is possible to make patterns which result in clothing that not only fits well, but also exhibits other desirable properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.2
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• pp.134-147
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• 2016

The mainstay of modern fashion design has always been Western costumes. Though Asian costumes do get featured in collections at times, most instances are just instances of the western culture showing curiosity toward non-mainstream costumes. Until recently, Japan, which has been the most active in cultural exchanges, has been the main recipient of these curiosities, and has been used as the representative style and culture of East Asia. What needs to be let known is that Korea has its own costume style and culture, which have been developed according to its tradition and beliefs. Hanbok, which is the representative traditional costume in Korea, has existed since the beginning of the Kochosun dynasties. I started this study to figure out the design source of Hanbok's shape and develop it into a modern costume. In the fashion industry, "Mandarin Collar" and "Kimono Sleeve" are common terms, And I hope that words like 'Korean Collar' and 'Hanbok Sleeve' will one day become a household term. Hanbok contains Korea image. And its shape is formed depending on how Koreans have been treating all sorts of objects or things for many years. If my study can identify and express the unique Korean way of pattern and considering clothes, which is clearly different from those of China and Japan, I will be able to establish a concept of 'Korean style', that people of the world could come to recognize.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.542-554
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• 2002

The purposes of this study were to investigate, analyze, and consider the feature and practical situation of Apparel CAD education and distribution situation of CAD system so that CAD education can be effectively operated and managed in various kinds of relevant schools and universities. 32 colleges and universities that are performing CAD educational system are selected for the study. The author of the study has investigated and obtained the information through questionnaires to 32 professors who are in charge of CAD lectures and 301 students who are receiving CAD education. The result is as follows. 1. It showed that 62.5% of CAD educational systems have been practically introduced after 1995. Regarding the using system, YUKA occupies 46.9%, PAD 21.8%, and GERBER 18.8% and these three kinds of system have been chiefly supplied. 40.6% of them own only one system, 37.5% of them own 2～5 systems and 78% of them own less than 5 systems. 2. The most seriously pointed problems during the operation of CAD system were the lack of experimental materials and the frustration of manpower supply. Thus, the CAD education programs in schools and universities are practiced in inferior environments internally and externally. 3. Regarding the practical situation of CAD education, 28 among 32 schools and universities are performing CAD as one of the regular subjects for the curriculum. 4. Regarding satisfaction degree of the using system, professors showed higher satisfaction degree than students did. In conclusion, it showed that although the practical situations of CAD education in schools and universities have been changed and improved so much since 1995 owing to the increase of the positive recognition of the necessity of CAD, many students in the educational sites cannot study their favorite subjects related with CAD program with interest due to the lack of experimental facilities, the poor computer management systems, and the problems of manpower supply, etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.565-576
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• 1993

The Purpose of this study was to develop pattern drafting methods of the hip block and sleeve for female college students of 18 to 26 year-old. The study procedures and results were as follows ; 1. 313 female college students were measured, 17items were analyzed statisitcally. 2. New hip block and sleeve sloper were developed based on the result of the data analysis and fitting tests. 3. The sensory test was applied to evaluate the new hip block and sleeve sloper for female college student by comparing it with Japanese Bunka method sloper. According to statistical analysis of the result of 40items on the questionnaire, all the items showed significant difference($$a{\leq_-}0.01$$) between the two, with the new pattern having higher scores. The new drafting method proved to be better fitted at all 40items, and to be comfortable.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2005.10a
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• pp.48-54
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• 2005

In order to mass-customize clothes, it is essential to take into account individual body shape using computerized 3D body models. This paper describes the development of an interactive body model that can be altered to match individual body perimeter, postures and depth for the purpose of computerized pattern making. Construction of the body model requires the extraction of necessary points, adjustment of coordinate points, linking of points by spline curves, control of section lengths and selectability of various hip types. Front to back depth of the model is adjusted by scaling ratio. We had a great result for controlling perimeter, posture and depth of body shapes. The results support the adaptability and potential usefulness of the posture and depth adjustable body model.