• The Korea Journal of Herbology
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.7-12
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• 2014

Objectives : Polygoni Multiflori Radix (PMR), the roots of Polygonum multiflorum Thunberg, is used to nourish the blood and yin and used for preventing premature greying of the hair. There are some articles on its preventing effects on the melanogenesis. However, there is no report about its effects on the collagen and elastin. The present study was designed to investigate its effects on collagen metabolism and elastase activity. Methods : The effects of PMR on type I procollagen production and collagenase activity in human normal fibroblasts Hs68 after UVB (312 nm) irradiation were measured by ELISA method. Cells were pretreated with the PMR for 24 hours prior to UVB irradiation. After UVB irradiation, cells were retreated with the sample and incubated for additional 24 hours. The amount of collagen type I was measured with a procollagen type I C-peptide assay kit. The activity of collagenase was measured with a MMP-1 human biotrak ELISA system. The elastase activities after treatment of PMR were measured as well. Results : In the present study, the collagen production was not increased. However, the increased collagenase activity after UVB damage was significantly recovered to $50.2{\pm}14.5%$, $8.2{\pm}3.1%$, and $10.0{\pm}3.3%$ (10, 30, and $100{\mu}g/ml$). The elastase activities (10, 100, and $1000{\mu}g/ml$) significantly reduced to $75.2{\pm}5.2%$, $40.3{\pm}1.2%$, and $27.0{\pm}1.9%$, respectively. Conclusion : PMR showed the inhibitory effects on collagenase and elastase activity. These results suggest that PMR may have potential as an anti-aging ingredient in cosmetic herbal treatment.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.28 no.5
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• pp.524-531
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• 2018

The essential oil from Abies koreana E.H. Wilson had been developed, however, its efficacy has not yet been studied especially in terms of skin care research. The aim of this study is to investigate the effects of Abies koreana extracts (AKE) on melanogenesis and wrinkle formation in B16F10 melanoma cells (B16F10) and human dermal fibroblast cell line (HDF). The essential oil was extracted by hydrodistillation method and purified by anhydrous sodium sulfate. At a concentration of $10^{-5}$-fold, viability in these cells had been defined by cytotoxicity assays. Anti-melanogenic effects on B16F10 were evaluated using tyrosinase inhibition assay, and real-time PCR for verifying gene expression of tyrosinase, tyrosinase related protein-1 and -2 (TRP-1 and -2). AKEs reduced about 5-fold of tyrosinase inhibitory activity compared to ${\alpha}$-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (${\alpha}$-MSH)-induced group and about 30% reduction compared to Arbutin induced group. The mRNA levels of three melanin-related factors were increased, separately. To investigate the effects of anti-wrinkle, procollagen type I c peptide synthesis assay (PIP) and Western blot were performed. At AKE-treated group, PIP was up-regulated and the expression of collagen type 1 and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 were improved. Furthermore, AKE presented anti-wrinkle effects by increasing UVB-inhibited collagen type 1 expression, and reducing UVB-induced MMP-1 production at $60mJ/cm^2$ of UVB radiation. Therefore, Abies koreana extracts has potentials as a safe and an effective skin ingredient for whitening and anti-wrinkle.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.423-429
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• 2017

Hair color is determined by kind and amount of melanin. Melanocyte mainly synthesizes melanin from L-tyrosine by stimulation of ultra violet. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) play an important role in greying hair. Polygonum multiflorum radix has been reported to inhibit the aging process that black color of hair is turned into grey color. The aim of this study is to investigate the effect of Polygoni multiflorium radix ethanol extract (PMEE) on melanin synthesis related to black hair growth. In anti-oxidant experiment, PMEE decreased DPPH radical and increased reducing power, indicating that PMEE could eliminate ROS involved in greying hair. PMEE decreased cell viability in a dose-dependent manner. Furthermore, the effect of PMEE on the production of melanin was determined by DOPA assay and tyrosinase activity. PMEE increased tyrosinase activity and promoted melanin synthesis. In addition, the expression levels of tyrosinase, tyrosinase related protein-1 (TRP-1), tyrosinase related protein-2 (TRP-2) and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), as well as anti-oxidant enzymes such as superoxide dismutase (SOD-3) and catalase were examined using western blot analysis. The expression levels of SOD-3 and catalase were decreased due to the enhanced antioxidant activity of PMEE. In particular, PMEE increased the expression levels of tyrosinase and TRP-2. These results suggest that PMEE could promote melanin synthesis that involved in tuning gray hair into black hair.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.153-161
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• 2024

Vitamin D is a fat-soluble vitamin that is mainly produced in the skin by UV rays. Along with melatonin, it is a representative chronobiotic substance, and the skin plays an important role in distinguishing between day and night. However, vitamin D cannot be used directly in cosmetics because it is a vitamin that acts as a coenzyme and plays a hormonal role in regulating the expression of various types of genes. Therefore, it was to investigate the skin efficacy of provitamin D (7-dehydrocholesterol), a vitamin D precursor that can be used in cosmetics. Our findings reveal that pro vitamin D can effectively inhibit the expression of tyrosinase, the melanin-producing enzyme, thereby attenuating melanin synthesis. This skin tone regulatory effect has been corroborated in vitro using artificial skin models. Additionally, pro vitamin D demonstrated anti-inflammatory properties by suppressing the expression of TNFa and, upon conversion to vitamin D through UV exposure, it was observed to induce the production of the antimicrobial peptide CAMP (LL-37). The inhibitory effect of pro vitamin D on melanin production appears to be a result of it reducing the UV absorption capacity of melanin, thereby inducing the conversion of pro D to vitamin D. Utilizing pro vitamin D in cosmetic formulations could not only modulate skin tone and enhance skin immunity but also expect to contribute to other cutaneous benefits as anti-aging and barrier function improvement with everyday UV exposure. This multifaceted efficacy positions pro vitamin D as a promising ingredient in advancing the formulation of skin care products.

• Industry Promotion Research
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.77-85
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• 2024

In this study, the hydrothermal extract of Chrysanthemum indicum Flowers are analyzed for the identification of its functional material value. Various aromatic compounds were detected as a result of GC-MS analysis, and antioxidant analysis confirmed the high antioxidant activity of the extract. High antibacterial activity was confirmed in the TIME KILL TEST using the 70% ethanol extract, which showed the highest activity, and the inhibition of intracellular melanogenesis was confirmed to be 115.77 ± 6.67%, 112.42 ± 1.64%, and 67.12 ± 3.89% compared to the α-MSH treatment group at concentrations of 1%, 1.2%, and 1.5%, respectively, when the extract was treated with 1%, 1.2%, and 1.5%. Collagenage activity inhibition assay showed collagenase inhibition of 56.57 ± 2.28%, 58.64 ± 2.99 and 29.53 ± 1.03% when treated at concentrations of 1.5%, 3% and 5%. The cytotoxicity test of the extract showed no cytotoxicity at concentrations of 1.5%, 3% and 5%. Therefore, this study predicts that the hydrothermal extract of Chrysanthemum indicum Flowers will be useful as a functional cosmetic material.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.197-207
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• 2018

The radish skin and radish greens (mucheong) are an edible part of the radish. But they are removed before eating the radish and used as a byproduct or an animal feed material because of their tough and rough texture. This study was conducted to investigate the effect of supercritical heat-treated radish-extract on UV-induced Hos: HRM-2 wrinkled mouse animal model on anti-aging wrinkles. Supercritical heat-treated radish-extract was applied on the back of seven-weeks old HRM-2 mice. The effect of HRE on skin thickness, elasticity and wrinkle formation of the mice was observed by using UVB lamp to induce melanogenesis and wrinkle formation. As the result, increased depth of wrinkles was observed in the negative control group in comparison to the normal group. In contrast, decreased depth of wrinkles was observed in the radish-extract-free group compared to the negative control group. In the study of the effect of radish-extract on wrinkle-formation related gene expression and protein what protein expression, MMP-2 and MMP-2 gene expression significantly increased in the negative control group compared to the normal group. The gene expression reduced independence to the mass of radish-extract treated. Similar to quantitative results of mRNA expression, the expression of MMP-2 protein increased as a result of UVB-irradiation. The MMP-2 expression was inhibited in dependence to the mass of radish-extract treated. In conclusion, the supercritical heat-treated radish-extract has an effect on improving skin wrinkles not only when it is applied to the skin but also when orally ingested. Thus, it can be effectively used as a composition to health functional products. Thereafter, we can also conclude that radish, a food that does not show any side-effects even upon long-term intake, can reduce wrinkle formation as well as improve skin elasticity when taken regularly for a long period.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.275-286
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• 2008

In this study, we investigated the anti-oxidative, anti-wrinkle and whitening effects of Platycarya strobilacea bark extracts. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) of extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea was in the order: 50% ethanol extract ($6.75{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($6.62{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction ($4.15{\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activity was ethyl acetate fraction (OSC50, $0.56{\mu}g/mL$) < 50% ethanol extract ($0.02{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($0.01{\mu}g/mL$). The deglycosylated aglycone fraction showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethanol extract (50%) suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner, particularly ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent cellular protective effect (${\tau}_{50}$, 717.27 min at $10{\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of Platycarya strobilacea extracts on tyrosinase were investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Finally, their anti-elastase activities were measured to predict the anti-wrinkle efficacy in the human skin. The inhibitory effect ($IC_{50}$) on tyrosinase of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts was 50% ethanol extract ($243.98{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction ($153.87{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($137.53{\mu}g/mL$). Also, The inhibitory effect of elastase ($IC_{50}$) of some Platycarya strobilacea extracts was 50% ethanol extract ($31.01{\mu}g/mL$) < ethyl acetate fraction ($14.42{\mu}g/mL$) < deglycosylated aglycone fraction ($1.48{\mu}g/mL$). The cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction of Platycarya strobilacea extracts was formulated. The skin hydration, transepidermal water loss, and the whitening effects were investigated after topical application of the cream. The skin hydration of cream containing extract was increased by $2{\sim}8%$ than the placebo cream, transepidermal water loss was decreased. The cream containing extract suppressed the melanogenesis of skin by 9.55% than the placebo cream. These results indicate that extract / fractions of Platycarya strobilacea can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by anti-oxidative activity and protect cellular membranes against ROS. The inhibitory effect on elastase and tyrosinase, and the increase of skin hydration and the whitening effect of the cream containing extract could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antiaging.

• Journal of Nutrition and Health
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.121-128
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• 2020

Purpose: The Rubus coreanus fruit (RF) is an important traditional medicinal herb having antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and immunoregulatory properties. These activities are known to change dramatically, depending on maturity of the RF. It is presumed that change of functional components, such as flavonoids, tannins, phenolic acids, triterpenoids and organic acids in RF, affect the various bioactivities. This study aimed to confirm changes in the anti-melanogenic effects of RF based on maturity, and to identify the bioactive compounds responsible. Methods: The cell viability of mature RF (MRF) and immature RF (IRF) extracts was investigated using B16F10 cells. To compare the anti-melanogenic effect of MRF and IRF extracts, we first assessed the melanin content. High-performance liquid chromatography analysis was performed to evaluate changes in the level of ellagic acid according to maturity of the RF. In addition, tyrosinase inhibitory activity of both extracts was examined. Results: MRF and IRF extracts (50-200 ㎍/mL) do not affect the cell viability of B16F10 melanoma cells. IRF extract more effectively inhibited melanin synthesis than MRF extract. The content of ellagic acid in IRF extract was higher than that obtained in MRF extract. Furthermore, greater inhibition of tyrosinase activity was observed after exposure to IRF extract than MRF extract. A positive correlation was determined between ellagic acid content and tyrosinase inhibitory activity, and a negative correlation was obtained between ellagic acid content and melanin content. Taken together, our results indicate that ellagic acid is one of the major bioactive compounds of RF that imparts a whitening effect. Conclusion: Our results indicate that ellagic acid in MRF and IRF extracts affect the anti-melanogenesis effect through inhibition of tyrosinase activity. Therefore, the ellagic acid rich IRF has greater potential for application as a natural and functional cosmetic material.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.31 no.8
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• pp.719-728
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• 2021

Melanin pigments are abundantly distributed in mammalian skin, hair, eyes, and nervous system. Under normal physiological conditions, melanin protects the skin against various environmental stresses and acts as a physiological redox buffer to maintain homeostasis. However, abnormal melanin accumulation results in various hyperpigmentation conditions, such as chloasma, freckles, senile lentigo, and inflammatory pigmentation. Tyrosinase, a copper-containing enzyme, plays an important role in the regulation of the melanin pigment biosynthetic pathway. Although several whitening agents based on tyrosinase inhibition have been developed, their side effects, such as allergies, DNA damage, mutagenesis, and cytotoxicity of melanocytes, limit their applications. In this study, we synthesized 4-chromanone derivatives (MHY compounds) and investigated their ability to inhibit tyrosinase activity. Of these compounds, (E)-3-(4-hydroxybenzylidene)chroman-4-one (MHY1294) more potently inhibited the enzymatic activity of tyrosinase (IC₅₀ = 5.1±0.86 μM) than kojic acid (14.3±1.43 μM), a representative tyrosinase inhibitor. In addition, MHY1294 showed competitive inhibitory action at the catalytic site of tyrosinase and had greater binding affinity at this site than kojic acid. Furthermore, MHY1294 effectively inhibited α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanin synthesis and intracellular tyrosinase activity in B16F10 melanoma cells. The results of the present study indicate that MHY1294 may be considered as a candidate pharmacological agent and cosmetic whitening ingredient.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.260-274
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• 2015

This paper has shown the experimental results about the physiological activities of water-, ethanol-, ethyl acetate-soluble fractions from ethanolic extracts of leaves, stems and roots of Cudrania tricuspidata on the skin, which has been used for a long time as a traditional herb medicine in Korea and China. The effects of these fractions on the secretion of nitric oxide and cytokines from macrophage(RAW 264.7 cell) exhibited that the ethyl acetate and water fractions from leaves inhibited the release of nitric oxide, all fractions inhibited thoses of inflammatory cytokine $IL-1{\alpha}$, and the ethyl acetate fractions of leaves, stems and roots inhibited thoses of inflammatory cytokine IL-6. The only ethylacetate fraction of leaves demonstrated significantly the reduction of melanin synthesis in melanoma cells. In order to evaluate the efficacy of collagen synthesis, the treatment with extracts on the human normal fibroblast cell(CCD-986sk cell) resulted in finding that the water fractions of leaves, stems and roots and the ethanol fractions of leaves and stems showed the increased synthesis of collagen.