• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.366-377
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• 2014

This paper is a comparative research study between Korean and American women's garments from the 1910s to 1930s. It focuses on the articles and advertisements of Korean women's magazines and American women's magazines. The Korean women's magazines investigated are 신여자[Siyeoja], 신가정[Singajung], 부인[Buin], 신여성[Sinyeosung], and 여성[Yeosung]. The American woman's magazine investigated is Ladies' Home Journal. This paper explores the differences and similarities between the garments that appear in these magazines. There is little evidence about women's clothing in Korean women's magazines while the American women's magazine includes a lot of information about women's dress and life. Korean women usually wore Korean traditional costumes with traditional terms like Chima and Jeogori but they wore western shoes, stockings, shawls, umbrellas, and some clothing with western materials such as lace, velvet, and rayon with borrowed words. These western accessories and some clothing materials like lace and rayon were the same fashion in America. So, Korean women wore traditional and western clothing together while American women wore clothing influenced by Paris fashion. American women wore various pieces of clothing like suits, frocks, coats and sportswear with undergarments. There were also lots of advertisements about women's under garments and sportswear which was different from Korean women's clothing during the period.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.1-12
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• 2004

This study aimed to explore how India madras fashion was diffused in the American women's costume of the different social levels from 1960 to 1975, by using fashion illustrations such as photographs, drawings and advertisements collected from fashion magazines. The purpose was to obtain data for high fashion(Vogue), mainstream fashion(Mademoiselle) and college newspapers for youth fashion. The data were incorporated from 439 clothing items classified by different categories over the 16-year period. The results indicated that the appearance of madras in the American women's fashion in all social classes supported the idea that fashion change during this period accompanied a concurrent change in social environment. In America during the 1960s when there was strong influence of youth counterculture and interest was high on Indian culture, this corresponded to the time of maximum popularity of madras observed in American fashion in general from 1965 to 1971. Though the Indian influence on fashion in the sixties was often ascribed solely to youth counterculture, it is evident that different social groups-high and mainstream social classes, responded to the appeal of Indian culture in different ways.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.23-33
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• 2010

Articles from The New York Times and magazines including Consumer Digest, Journal of Home Economics, Scholastic, Time and Woman's Home Companion were analyzed in this study and focused on the following research questions: How did the social situation influence American women's adoption of pants during World War II? How were the social opinions of women's adoption of pants? How did American women's adoption of pants and the social opinions on women's pants represent the process of change in the definition of femininity during World War II? Women were encouraged to wear pants in work places because many women had to work in defense industries and farms. Women had to wear pants during the winter to keep warm in order to conserve oil, rubber, and other materials. In addition, wearing men's clothes became a fashion trend among college women during this period. However, practicality was often not the primary thing alone to consider in women's fashion. Femininity was still important in women's fashion. There were criticisms over the women's adoption of pants. Regulations against pants were imposed on women, while there were women who wanted to dress like ladies even at defense industries. An abrupt change in women's gender roles and the increased adoption of trousers aroused social ambivalence about the traditional definition of femininity. Even though many women returned to their homes after the war, the social demand of practicality in women's day-time clothes during the war offered women the experience of comfort and practicality in pants. These experiences contributed to paving the way for more women to adopt pants and helped establishing a new definition of femininity after the war.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 1998

In this study fashion illustrations published in American Vogue from 1960 to 1989 were investigated. Among the large number of illustrations published in American Vogue in this period a considerable number of illustrations was chosen: from 1960 to 1969 143 editorial illustrations and 333 advertisement illustrations; from 1970 to 1979 34 editorial illustrations and 168 advertisement illustrations; from 1980 to 1989 123 editorial illustrations and 81 advertisement illustrations. In studying those illustrations the main point was put in finding characteristics and the changing trend of fashion Illustrations. In the sixties editorial fashion illustrations were published mainly during early sixties. The Illustrations of Rene Bouch, Evelyn Marcil, Dagmar and Eunice Moore Sloane took the space of editorials. Among those Illustrators Bouch published most frequently. The companies such as Galey & Lord, Lord & Taylor, Bergdorf Goodman, Bonwit Teller etc. used fashion illustrations for the advertisement. The name Kenneth Paul Block, Babara Pearlman and Dorothy Hood can be found very frequently on the illustrations for those companies. Antonio Lopez too published in 1963 some advertisement illustrations. In the seventies the total number of editorial fashion illustrations diminished drastically compared to the number in the sixties. Antonio published in 1973 and 74 fifteen illustrations, Joe Eula published from 1976 to 79 thirteen illustrations, and beside them Mats Gustavson published in 1978 six illustrations. The number of advertisement illustrations decreased a little, but many companies used fashion illustrations for the advertisement. The illustrator who worked most actively were Block and Fred Greenhill. In the eighties editorial illustrations experienced a "Renaissance". New high-level illustrators appeared and new fashion illustration magazines were found. Antonio played a central role among illustrators published for editorials in Vogue. In addition to him 15 other illustrators including Mats and Eula with various styles worked for editorials. In contrast to the flourishment of editorial illustrations the number of advertisement illustrations decreased compared to seventies as a result of the domination of fashion photography in this area. Today only few fashion illustrations can be found in fashion magazines. The magazines are dominated by fashion photographs. However fashion illustrations will not totally perish from fashion magazines, because it still has some valuable functions in fashion advertisement. Those functions cannot be fulfilled by photography. Therefore fashion illustration will survive in fashion magazine but playa minor role compared to photography.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.33-68
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• 1993

The purpose of this paper is to survey the influence of the culture change on the dress and personal adornments, and to survey the change of factors from the August 15. 1945 to 1960, in connection with the social and cultural background, applying B. Malinowski′s "Theory of Culture Change" which means an acculturation is the change′s elements of the dress and its ornaments. It is remarkable that the dress and personal adornments of Korean women after August 15, 1945 has great change from the traditional dress of the thousands years. Through the Liveration on August 15, 1945, American military government and the establishment of the Korean government, American democracy has brought many changes on Korean society. Advancement of education, an society with developed economic life, and introduction of scientific skill have influenced on the women′s way of thinking and a style of behavior and the view of value. The acculturation, the supply of mass communication, introduction of new institution and the reorganization of the old institution, the change of the economic situation, the change of the educational system, the change of the point of value, the development of scientific skill have greatly influenced on the dress and personal adornments. Modern dress and personal adornments of Korean women has the following developing procedure. The Liberation from Japan on the 15th, of August, 1945, the stationing of American Soldiers during hte Koran War, returning of the oversea′s brethern, and the mass communication have the direct and indirect contact with western civilization, and bring the occasion of development of the modern dress of Korean women. The increase of mass communication, such as radio, TV, newspaper, magazines and the frequent fashion shows showed fine design and practical western style dress to the women. This was the real beginning of the western style dress in Korea. By the increase of employment and the improvement of the economic situation, the consumption of clothing and the adornments was increased, so that a wide variety of fashions was set, and numerous kind and form of dress came in. As the increase of the number of women students, their practical and free dress life demanded western style dress. After the Liberation from Japan, the open-door policy of sex, public morals and traditional ethics became lax, and in this disordered society, indecent expose of the body was common. By the different kind of technological development, the form, fabrics, colors and patterns in clothes were much influenced and the hair style, make up, shoes and adornments were much influenced too. As shown above, the change of the dress has the same connection with that of society and culture. This shows that the dress and personal adornments represent clearly the cultural phenomenon of the society and cultural change of the society.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.69-84
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• 1986

The objective of this Paper was to identify the relationship between the fine arts, pop art and fashion in relation to its qualities, motifs, and techniques of graffiti and collage. The data of this study were collected from fashion magazines such as French Vogue and American Vogue from 1962 through 1970 and Elle from 1980, post cards and reports of costume exhibition in Victoria & Albert museum in London, and newspaper accounts and magazine accounts. The qualities of pop art were characterized as 1) Popular (designed for mass audience), 2) transient (short term solution), 3) expendable (easily forgotten), 4) low cost, 5) mass produced, 6) young (aimed at youth), 7) witty, 8) sexy and erotic, ana 9) big business. Pop art was rooted in urban environment. According to analysis of the data for this paper, these special aspects of that environment reflected on fashion in the 60's. Mary Quant, Zandra Rhodes, Y.S.L., Rudi Gernreich, Paco Rabanne, Pierre Cardin, Andre Courreges in the 60's and Castelbajac and Sprouse in the 80's showed Pop art dresses, mods fashion inspired by pop artists such as Hamilton, Donaldson, Allen Jones, Jasper Jones, Andy Wahol, and Keith Haring. New erotism of fashion was Produced by Y.S.L.'s see-through blouse, Courreges'a hipster pants, and Gernreich's bikinis which revealed the navel and the breast. T-shirts and dresses ornamented with Pop idols' faces, Pop graffitic motifs, and slogans, as a resistant to society, were begun to popular.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.537-553
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• 2010

Culture represents forms of life appeared in various dimensions. Advertisements which represent these forms of life show the most important social and cultural phenomenon. The necessity of research on the cultural characteristics of society has been raised because the effectiveness of advertisement could have been varied depending on the cultural value. Moreover, within a society, values reflected by advertisements tend to vary in different eras. Thus, this study aims to clarify the differences between cultural values from different eras through an analysis of cultural characteristics and symptoms with consideration of the time flow. This study also examines the meanings of cultural characteristics highlighted by the study. For the investigation, two Korean women's magazines were selected, from 1955 to 2008. Data were analyzed using chi-squared test which was conducted with Crosstab using the PASW statistics 17.0 Program. The results were as follows: there were changing aspects from traditional values to modern values by years. Additionally, each period was described using several keywords. The keywords were divided by decade: in the '50s keywords were 'lifestyle change', 'material value increase' and the 'challenge to traditional values', in the '60s keywords were 'American culture acceptance', 'material success', in the '70s keywords were 'the rise of nonmaterial value', 'rationalism' and 'egalitarianism', in the '80s 'individualism', 'Life style and culture group differentiation', 'conspicuous consumption', in the '90s 'globalization', 'emphasis on personality sensitivity', 'health-oriented', 'improve the quality of life', while in the '00s keywords were 'spread of digital life', 'rational consumption patterns', 'the 3rd distribution'. Through the research, important changes in the cultural characteristics of Korea were observed. Furthermore, we may be able to think of the most effective way of advertising by identification of the cultural characteristics of the society.