• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.57-66
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• 2005

In natural dyeing, a number of supplementary methods have been practiced since deep shades of the dyed fabrics are not developed satisfactorily. The methods include using the mordants effectively or subjecting the fabrics to reiterated dyeing processes. In this study, we obtained deep shades in the dyeing of fabrics using Rhusjara ica as the dyestuff and applied chitosan to the fabric specimens in order to diversify the colors. Silk fibers and PET(polyethylene terephthalate) fibers were pretreated using chitosan, and subsequently dyed using different types of mordants. As the mordanting agents, Al, Sn, and Fe were employed. Various shades have been resulted in since the interactions of the mordants are different toward the silk fibers and PET fibers. In this study, we investigated the effect of the chitosan treatment along with the change of the mordanting agents on the color change for the silk and PET fibers.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.7 s.209
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• pp.109-116
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• 2005

Using buffer solutions, consisting of pH 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8, silk fiber fabric specimens, pre-mordanted with one of the mordanting agents, Sn, Al, Cu, Cr, and Fe, were dyed using cochineal dyestuff. The color of the dyed silk fabric specimens was predominantly red(R) for the acidic range of pH 4 and 5, and predominantly purple(RP) for the neutral range of pH 6,7, with 8, with the pH boundary differentiating between the shades being between pH 5 and 6. As a general trend, the chroma value decreased as the pH changed from acid to alkali, and the highest chroma value us attained between pH 4 and 5. Regardless of the mordanting conditions, the trend was that $ {\Delta}E$ showed the highest measured value in the acidic range of pH 4 and 5, and it dropped abruptly after the pH 6.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.327-336
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the color image of the natural-dyed silk fabrics. The dye was extracted from pine needle by boiling pine needle with ethanol at $78^{\circ}C$ for 3hours and distilled water at $100^{\circ}C$ for 2hours. The 100% silk fabric was dyed of extract in pH 5 at $90-100^{\circ}C$ for 1 hr. As mordants used were compounds of Al, Sn, Fe, and Cr, color image of pine-needle dyed silk fabrics was classified into 5 factors (pure, gentle, sophisticate, comfortable, pastorale) and the factor pure is most important one of those. Most cheerful image in pure factor was from the fabrics dyed with ethanol extract and then, none and Cr mordanting. Dignified image was from the fabrics dyed with ethanol extract and then, Cu or Fe mordanting. In production, products dyed with ethanol extracts was preferred to those dyed with distilled water extracts. Color image and preference of the silk fabrics dyed with pine needles extracted was affected by extraction solvents and mordants.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.76-86
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• 2016

In this research, the dyeing properies of Amur cork tree on sheep leathers were evaluated. The proper dyeing conditions were identified with K/S values depending on the colorant concentration, dyeing time, dyeing temperature and dye bath pH. For the proper conditions, the changes of color for different mordants(Al, Cu and Fe) were observed as $L^*a^*b^*$ coordinates and H V/C values. The color fastnesses were also examined, and the antimicrobial properties were examined. The results were as follows: For the sheep leather, the optimized dyeing conditions were 300% o.w.f., 40 min., $40^{\circ}C$, and pH 5. The leather color was yellow in the dyeing and mordanting. Although the $L^*a^*b^*$ changed with the mordants and mordanting methods, the overall hue was yellow. The colorfastness to light was reduced compared to original(untreated) sheep leather. The rubbing fastness was generallry satisfactory as 4-5 rating. The dry-cleaning fastness(stain) of leathers were generally at the 4-5 level, but dry-cleaning fastness(fade) was a little reduced compared to original sheep leather. The dyed and pre-mordanted and dyed sheep leather showed excellent antimicrobial properties.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.73-84
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the natural dyeability on extract of Aloe Vera princeps. The experimental items were divided into the mordanting method, component of fabric, extracting portion, and kind of mordants. The experimental study was done to by laundering, abrasion(dry/wet), perspiration(acid/alkali), light fastness test and color difference by C.C.M system. The summerized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows: First, in the C.C.M test on mordanting method, color difference was significantly improved when mordants were treatmented. And the premordanting method showed the highest color difference. Second, in the C.C.M test on component of fabric, color difference of silk was higher than cotton. It was considered that silk has -$\NH_2$, -COOH, -OH more than cotton. Third, in the C.C.M Test on extracting portion, color difference of extracting in skin of Aloe leaf was three times higher than that of inside lump. Forth, in dyeing-fastness on mordants, laundering fastness showed 3 ~ 4 grade nearly. In perspiration-fastness(acid/alkali), Al(4~5/4~5) was the highest. In abrasion-fastness(dry/wet), cotton(4~5/4~5) was higher than silk (4~5/4) in all mordants. In light-fastness, silk(2~5) was higher than cotton(1~2) generally and especially Cu mordant of silk(4~5) was the highest. Sixth, in color difference analysis on 7 mordants Cu(29.9), Fe(28.7) and Cr(28.9) showed the highest in silk. And Cu(12.7), Fe(10.42) and Sn(10.43) showed the highest in cotton and Al(23.6, 8.0) showed the lowest in silk and cotton.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.35-50
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• 2001

The object of this study is to improve the adsorption of dye for gromwell. Dye was from gromwell first soaked in methylol and added the distilled water, using same amount of methylol. The fabrics used for the experiments were cotton, silk and acrylics(KS0905). These were used untreated and pretreated with chitosan, premordanted with Cu, Al and Fe. Dyeing conditions were controlled. 1. Deep color effect was shown silk. 2. Chitosan treated cotton and acrylics showed deep color effect and huge color difference before and after the experiment. 3. In chitosan treated acrylics, deep color effect were shown. It proved the good adsorption of gromwel under metal mordanting. 4. Cu showed high adsorption of gromwell and deep color effect. 5. Chitosan treated acrylics can be substitute for wool.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.866-877
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• 2012

The natural dyeing of hanji cotton fabrics with guava leaf extract was investigated. The temperature and time of dyeing were $40^{\circ}C$ and $90^{\circ}C$ for eighty minutes, respectively. In addition, the dyebath has been set at pH 5. Sn pre-mordanted fabrics showed the highest K/S value. Regardless of dyeing temperature, K/S values were high when Al, Cu, Fe-mordanted fabrics were dyed in post-mordanting and Sn-mordanted fabrics in pre-mordanting. The dyeing equilibrium was shown at the fourth time of repeated dyeing. In the processing of hanji cotton fabrics, K/S value was high when hanji cotton fabric was treated with soybean milk at $90^{\circ}C$. Similar K/S value of dyeing was shown when fabrics were processed with chitosan, regardless of dyeing temperature. High K/S value of dyeing was seen when fabrics processed with gallnut tannin at 40. Fabrics dyed with acidic water extract showed yellowish color. Fabrics dyed with alkaline water extract showed reddish color, and fabrics dyed with ethanol extract showed greenish yellow color. In case of Sn-mordanted fabrics, the washing fastness level was between 3 to 4, and other dyed fabrics showed low fastness. The dry cleaning fastness also showed very excellent result with level 4-5. The rubbing fastness of the fabrics was better in dry rubbing than in wet rubbing. For the light fastness, all dyed fabrics showed low fastness. For antibacterial activity, the dyed fabrics with guava leaf extract showed 99.9% of high antibacterial activity. Hanji cotton fabric maintained certain deodorization in the state of raw fabric. All dyed fabrics showed higher UV protection rate than control fabric.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.33-46
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate the natural dyeability of silk on extract of Artemisia princeps, The experimental items were divided into the mordanting method. comonent of fabric, kind of mordant. The experimental study was done by laundering fastness, abrasion(dry/wet) fastness, perspiration(acid/alkali) fastness, light fastness test and color difference by C.C.M system. The summarized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows; First, in the C. C. M test on mordanting methods, color difference was significantly improved when mordants were treatmented. And the premordanting method showed the highest color difference, color was most yellow-greenish, Second, in the C.C.M test on component of fabrics, color difference of silk was higher than cotton. It is considered that silk has -$NH_2$ , -COOH, -OH than more than cotton. Third, in dyeing-fastness on mordants, laundering fastness showed that color-change was 2~3 grade, the contamination on attached fabric was 4~5 grade. perspiration fastness(acid/alkali) showed 4~5 grade nearly and those of acid was higher than alkali. abrasion fastness(dry/wet) was 4~5 grade and in Fe(3~4 grade) was lower than the other mordants. Forth, in color difference analysis on mordants, Fe(50.0) showed the highest and the order of color difference was alum(16.0), Cu(7.2), Sn(3.5), Al(3.1), Cr(2.3), The Hue was turned into yellow-greenish in alum mordant treatment, the luminocity of color was most dark in Fe(-48.9) and Cu(-7.2), chroma was the highest in alum (15.7) method.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.79-86
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• 2006

This study purposes to find the best one for dyeing with artemisia in order to develop a more efficient method of dyeing with artemisia and investigates the antibiotic activities of artemisia. After dyeing cotton, rayon, silk, wool and nylon fabrics with dyebath extracted from artemisia, observation on dyeability by temperature, concentration and time has been carried out. And I took an observation on color change, color fastness to washing and color fastness to light after mordanting treatment. Also observation on the antibiotic properties of non-dyed fabrics, artemisia-dyed fabrics and artemisia-dyed fabrics with post-mordant has been performed to investigate the antibiotic activities of artemisia. And the following results have been obtained. 1. The dyeability of artemisia was better for protein fabrics such as silk or woo and amide-based synthetic fabrics like nylon than for cellulose fabrics such as cotton and rayon. 2. For all tested fabrics, the dyeability was increased as the concentration of artemisia dyebath, dyeing time and dyeing temperature was increased. Especially the dye ability for protein fabrics was most affected by the temperature, and high dyeability was obtained at high temperatures. 3. For the color fastness of artemisia-dyed fabrics with mordanting treatment, the color fastness to washing was good with grade of 4-5 while the color fastness to light ranged from grade 2 to grade 3, which requires improvement for practical use. 4. The artemisia-dyed fabrics were shown to have much higher antibiosis than the non-dyed fabrics, and the artemisia-dyed fabrics with mortanting treatment showed the following result; Cu 99.9%, Al 64% and bittern 64.7%.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.208-218
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• 2016

This study investigated the effects of the working mechanisms of proteins, mordants, and dyes, as well as the mordanting order, on dye uptake by silk fabric pre-treated with proteins and dyed with freeze-dried sappan wood water extract. Soybean protein and sodium caseinate were used as the proteins. 1. When Al mordants were not used, the dyeability of the fabrics increased upon protein pre-treatment as compared to the case without treatment. 2. Dyeing with protein pre-treatment, followed by mordanting, led to the highest dye uptake, and the optimal protein concentration was 5%. 3. The K/S values slightly decreased with an increase in the dyeing temperature, and the fabric turned dark red in color when dyeing was carried out at increasing temperature. Fabrics showed the highest dye uptake at $40^{\circ}C$. 4. Regarding the effect of time, the K/S values of the fabrics with and without protein treatment showed almost no increase after the initial dyeing time of 10min; further, there was hardly any difference in the cases with and without protein pre-treatment. 5. In case of protein pre-treatment fabrics, the washing fastness was level 2. The dry cleaning fastness showed very excellent result with level 4-5. The rubbing fastness was better in dry rubbing than in wet rubbing of the fabrics. For the light fastness, all dyed fabrics showed low fastness.