• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.124-137
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• 2012

This study aims to identify the meaning and formation cause of a style, and the essential elements of style formation, through psychobiological research as well as an analysis of the designs of Iris Van Herpen, a fashion designer, who in just 6 years has developed into a world-renowned new designer. As a result, it has been found that the psychobiological causes to form a style stem from the action of 'long-term memory', which is consolidated by 'selective attention', 'perceptional subjectivity', the principle of the 'neuron's connection specificity and invariance', and the principle of a 'neuronal signal's unilateral flow'. With such action, Herpen could develop her own original composition techniques. The formative shapes created by such composition techniques are characterized by enumeration, superposition, and hanging. The study has also found that the essential elements for a designer to be able to form his/her own style include 'aesthetic originality' in which the designer views the property of a thing from his/her inherent perspective, and finds the uniqueness from the thing that only he/she can express, 'technical differences' that are creative and original, and 'formative specificity' that is summarized into one property through an impressive shape.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.527-539
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• 2019

This study examined the Chinese style in the Vivienne Tam collection as well as explored diversity and modern interpretation of a Chinese style used in modern fashion. The study also investigated the concept and history of the Chinese style as well as analyzed the Chinese style in the collection based on a consideration of a Chinese element that is the basic structure with an understanding of Vivienne Tam and general collection themes. As a result of research, the Chinese style appeared in the Vivienne Tam collection was comprehensive with 43 Chinese elements including Animals, Flower & Grass among the Nature elements, Mythology Religion among the Figure elements, Historical Artifacts, Clothing, Oral Literature, Entertainment, Fine Arts. Technique, Folk holiday among Culture elements and Philosophy among Spirit elements, which accounted for 57.6% of the collection. The formative characteristics that included Chinese elements were extended, abstracted, distorted or transformed; in addition, some abstract elements were embodied into animals, images and certain particular forms to present a theme. In addition to two-dimensional method to print Chinese elements on fabric, they were also expressed as a three-dimensional texture or a silhouette, achieving clear and bold harmony. The aesthetic characteristic is a mixture of Eastern and Western way of thinking. Her costume has a political and historical meaning beyond the imitation of elements that represent the development of a pleasant and interesting design.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.27
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• pp.59-79
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• 2012

China and Japan are geographically close and the two countries had shared the Chinese Character Culture and the thoughts of Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism since the ancient age. They also actively exchanged culture in various areas. Some cultural exchanges had been caused by surrounding environment and culture had been introduced to other country in a natural way; while some cultural exchanges had been forcibly introduced through artificial process. It is believed that such cultural phenomenon must have had impact on the make-up cultures of the two countries and it was assumed that there must have been commons and differences in the make-up cultures of the two countries. This study explored the historical background of the Ching dynasty of China and the Edo Age in Japan, which are in the same time frame, and studied the aesthetic consciousness of the two countries at the time. Then the make-up style of ladies in the two countries had been studied to find out how their aesthetic consciousnesses had been expressed in the make-ups of the two countries. Then the commons and differences in make-up skills between the two countries had been identified. According to the study results, the main stream of aesthetics during the Ching dynasty in China can be classified into Confucianism aesthetics and Taoism aesthetics. On the other hand, the main stream of aesthetics during the Edo Age in Japan can be classified into "mitate(見立)", "ikki(いき)" and "garumi(かるみ). The skin care in the make-up culture of Ching dynasty in China was based on "rouge (?脂, yanzhi)" and "powder(粉, fen)". The Ching ladies loved the make-up style using rouge. It had been same both in the high society and common people. The eyebrow care was delicate and curved so that the feminine beauty with elegant spirit could be emphasized. The lips had been expressed to be smaller and the ladies tried to express elegance and reliability, rather than frail and tender feminine image. The skin care in the make-up culture of Edo Age in Japan focused on even applying of white powder so that the face would look soft. The eyebrow make-up was a very important part of the make-up. The shapes of eyebrow had been advanced in various styles and there had been eyebrow make-up styles such as "crescent-shaped brow (三日月), "crane style brow (鶴眉) and "Tang style brow (唐眉). The lips had been applied of thick red color, imitating the make-up skill of the ladies in the entertainment business. The lips make-up skill expressing the lips in two colors had been quite popular. Among the make-up skills during the Edo Age in Japan, the "black teeth (齒黑)" can be said as the most unique make-up style of Edo Age.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.6
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• pp.101-115
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to define women's classic tailored suits surviving, despite current millennial impulses tend toward disintegration in style. Through documentary study, the reason which women had chosen the mannish tailored suits instead of sumptuous dresses in the 20th century beginnings is considered carefully. Also, examining the process of transition of women's classic suits makes it possible to infer the aesthetic characteristics of them. According to study, women had began to wear tailored suits acquiring physical comfort and the equality of the sexes. In the early stage, women imitated men's tailored suits in order to show seriousness, intelligent, capability for social success. However, in accordance with the advance of women's social position women modified it to suits themselves to present intrinsic feminity as well as masculine values. By staying the basic form, classic tailored suits have undergone constant internal changes in relation to sexuality. The aesthetic properties of women's classic tailored suits can be inferred as moderation, dualism, and versatility. In conclusion, the credibility with own authority and the evolutionary character inhering in the classic tailored suits could explain the continuity of them.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.51-61
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• 2002

This study deals with Rhythm which is one of aesthetic variables. Aesthetics among the factors of consumer preference has been importantly considered in competitive market environment. Therefore , consumers' purchasing standard has been also changed as their consciousness has been changed according to the variation of their lire style. Besides, the technique and method of design faces up to the change because of consumers' diverse wishes. Hence, to satisfy consumers' needs and the market front now on characterized as the short durability cycle of products, a distinctive design should be developed in the form of products that can be an important factor to attract consumers preference. So, in this study, 1 will try to understand typology based on a categorization theory and the conceptual structure of aesthetics, which are importantly considered at the same time. In addition, I will establish a new design process by extracting Rhythm affecting aesthetic. Ultimately, this study aims develop more consumer preferring design beyond the limit of a designer's idea and design generation by the result of this study.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.192-201
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• 2022

The Han Dynasty was the great unification dynasty in history after the Qin Dynasty. Since the Han Dynasty inherited the Qin system, the seal script of the Han Dynasty developed continuously based on inheriting the Qin Small Seal Script. With the progress of social productivity, the Official Script gradually replaced the Seal Script in the Han Dynasty, but the Seal Script did not disappear completely; instead, a special line of development arose under the influence of the Official Script. Through the study of seal script of Han Dynasty inscriptions, this paper understands that the practical function of seal script of inscriptions has been weakening under the influence of clerical script, but the aesthetic value has been increasing day by day. Moreover, there were new artistic innovations in the context of the development of the diversification of inscriptional forms, and its emphasis on social role, cultural status, and the presentation of an aesthetic style that had a profound impact on later generations are worth studying.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.296-308
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to understand Qipao, that Chinese traditional women's cloth, and analysis the aesthetic characteristics of that. Joining WTO in 2002 and 2008 Beijing Olympic made China get the attention by the world and get the opportunity that advent of China style. Chinese fashion cultural contents have abundant meanings in internal or external, therefore characteristics aesthetic of Chinese traditional fashion had much influence in world fashion design. Qipao that has influence in contemporary fashion design could be used special fashion design data for China market. A variety of literature and prior researches for Qipao's history and transition process was studied. Internal and external documents, fashion magazines, internet information were investigated to study features of Qipao. Total 20 seasons fashion collections from 2000S/S to 2009F/W was examined, and selected 22 brands that showed Qipao style, after then extracted 418 photos among them. By the seasons, Eit showed 193 pieces in S/S and 225 pieces in F/W, and was put to practical use in F/W season than S/S. The results are as follows. The contemporary fashion collections shown in the Qipao style silhouette, detail, color, material, pattern and the results obtained by each, were in all respects diversity. In silhouette, including traditional tight silhouettes, 'H' silhouettes, boxy silhouette was such a variety. The five colors traditionally preferred color from the color was more of a tendency to be gorgeous. Modern reinterpretation of pattern designs by graphic pattern that has emerged. Also, shown in a contemporary fashion collection Qipao style leather material in application utilizing the glossy feel of a plastic material and has emerged feeling.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.413-419
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• 2006

This study was performed to analyze the wearing practice and the purchasing characteristics of jeans in order to offer basic data to produce superior jeans made of denim with small flexibility and to improve the wearing comfort. The questionnaire were 236 Korean women from the age of 10th to 50th. For data analysis, descriptive analysis and crosstabs were used. The results were as follows, in the purchasing characteristics, when the women of 10th to 30th decided to purchase jeans they considered fashion, design and price rather than wearing comfort. But the women of 40th to 50th considered that wearing comfort is the most important factor. The 10th is found the best preferred jean is wide straight style, the 20th is straight style, the 30th is boots cut style and the 40th to 50th is straight style. In wearing practice, there was a difference among age groups on the region that felt uncomfortable when wearing jeans. As the age increases, the abdomen size also increases. Most people answered that they mend jeans after purchase for length, without any relation with age. The reason why consumers prefer jeans with middle length between the crotch and waist and also purchase jeans with a short length is because they look refined and neat. This informs us that the short length between the crotch and waist does not match with ease and comfort, which are the images of jeans in the past. Recently premium jean brands are competing to show Low Rise Jeans, which seems like a Premium Jean=Low Rise Jean formula is created. Some manufacture companies are recklessly copying foreign designs that does not fit Korean's body shape. However, as mentioned in this study results, there is a clear difference between designs that they think consider as aesthetic and functional. Therefore, it is considered necessary for developing designs for jeans that can satisfy both aesthetic appreciation and functions for Korean consumer's body shape and each age group.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.6
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• pp.11-23
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• 2003

Japonese woodblock printing has been accepted with a great curiosity at first, and it has been called as 'Japonisme' or 'Japonaiserie' in which the school of Impressionism accepted the Japanese type of art and developed it in Europe. The term of Japonisme is the concept that does not refer to one style but to the taste for Japanese painting, craft, fashion and the like in Europe proved as the historical phenomenon through Japanese works. That is, it means every Japanese disposition including all artistic techniques and contents relating to Japanese tastes in Europe. Fashion of dress as Japanese expressed in European painting works not only symbolizes the 'modernity' expressive of the aspiration and nostalgia for Japan but presents the Japan of exotic taste as the inquisitive object of sexual interest. And the expressive method of the peculiar the beauty of the body was described in Japanese painting works because of the fashion characteristics that the frontal side of Japanese clothing was presented in a more decorative and formative way than its reverse side due to decorative design and belts. It could be found that this was introduced actively into the painting works of the impressionist school. This study attempts to discuss the expressive style including the pictorial style, technique and theme shown in the accommodating process of Japanese painting in the Impressionistic school and investigate the phenomenon of Japonisme that was conducted in the western Europe. Accordingly, this study attempts to find out that clothing takes an important place as the aesthetic category of one historical point in time by investigating the Japanese clothing of the times shown in impressionist painting works and that clothing forms the stylistic characteristics and formative characteristics of painting. It could be found that dress existed not only as the instrument capable of illustrating the aesthetic attitude or will of the human being as visual identity but as plastic art and became the prime mover for reinterpreting and changing the plastic style of art frontier.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.382-396
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the transition of glamour style expressed in modern fashion throughout the history. The glamour style in modern fashion was categorized into five periods which are Hollywood glamour(H), Feminine glamour(F), Rich glamour(R), Decadent glamour(D), and Trash glamour(T). These categories were analyzed and compared in the viewpoint of aesthetic values deduced on the previous study. As a method of analysis, literature study and case study through the publications in aesthetics, history and preceding theses were used. The results of analysis are: Ostentatious luxury was suggested by extravagance of the movie star in H, the splendid American lifestyle in F, conspicuous consumption in R, fin de siecle bad taste in D and self-assured exposure in T. Mysterious idolatry was studied as exaggerated goddesshood of the movie star in H. It was expanded to celebrities including fashion models, television actresses, pop singers and young couture designers in the other periods. Artificial sensuality was originated from the femme fatale image of the courtesan as well as the traditional femininity of Victorian era in H. It was developed through exaggerated hourglass silhouette of the wife dressing in F. But an aggressiveness in R, a hyper-sexual femme fatale in D, an independent and defiant image of the showgirl in T were observed. Playful queerness stood out clearly by the fin de siecle phenomena. Though it was embodied in sexual perversive subculture, it emerged as hi fashion by young designers in the late R and became a crucial aesthetic value throughout D and T. It is more connected with the origins of glamour which arouses sexual ambiguity, crudity, aggressiveness and death. The continuity and discontinuity of the glamour style based on the theory of 'linked solution' were also analyzed.