• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.117-129
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• 2020

Just as the name 'aesthetics' implies, the meaning of 'aisthesis' or 'sense' in Greek, is perceived as an important element in modern social design. Gilles Deleuze emphasized sensory expression over the rational side of the body, and argued for sensory theory, which is the theory of how painting produces new senses. The purpose of this study was to theoretically examine the sensory theory of Deleuze, which has given new value to the senses, apply it to analyze the body expression method shown in the Iris van Herpen collection, and derive its aesthetic characteristics. In his sensory theory, Deleuze argued that the senses can be expressed by the embodiment of force and rhythm, and one can only create art through the senses. To develop one's philosophical logic through Bacon's painting, we divided it into Hysteria, Cops sans organs, Diagram, Becoming, and Paired figures. Based on these analyses, the visualization of the senses in Iris van Herpen fashion resulted in hysteria, organ-free body, diagrams, and heterogeneity combinations. Analysis of the method of expression revealed rhythmicity, atypicality, scalability, and reproducibility as expression characteristics. Applying Deleuze's sensory theory to access experimental Iris van Herpen's fashion could confirm that there was an open system's accessibility. Deleuze's sensory theory, which has given a new value to the senses, will further help to understand modern fashion design in a wide and diverse way and discover the intrinsic value within it.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권7호
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• pp.1173-1183
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• 1997

In order to flatter the figures of average middle aged women by determining harmonious proportions for their costume forms, this study evaluates effects of varying design details of jackets(coats) with blouses and slacks using a ranking test and paired comparisons test. The result from clothing design C-2 which has the best design effect were as follows; 1. In order to look taller, the jacket(coats) is divided vertical long line and it has the emphasis point close to the face. 2. In order to make shoulder width look wider, armhole seam line attached 1-2 cm from the shoulder point. 3. In order to make chest width look slimmer, division was made up of a tailored collar with a deep V-neckline. 4. In order to make waist circumference look slimmer, the jacket has more fitted waist line than loosed it and tailored collar with a deep V-neckline. 5. In the case of the division of upper and lower garments, when the division was closer to the golden section, i.e., when the jacket hemline is hipline and slacks length is the heel excluded length of shoe heels, the overall appearance was better. 6. The V-neckline looked better, when it was cut along a long acute angle to the waist line. Because of dividing along above factors 1-6 i.e., clothing design C-2 was overall harmonious. Appropriate division of costume forms made for an aesthetic composition, which flattered the body types of middle aged women and presented harmonious, beautiful costume design effects. It made the women look taller, slim and balanced, and highlighted middle aged women's sense of beauty.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative beauty, changes in fashion and aesthetical sense that can be seen in the bias drapings of Madeleine Vionnet and her influences on modern fashion since she used draping as a new fashion means to represent the new feminine images which modernism of the early 20th century and social changes from the two great World War's generated, and to provide proper data to encourage designers' creativity that is wanting in the circle of Korea fashion. Bias draping led women to respect worship their body from the heart with seductive modernism enriching the material's texture to the utmost through geometrical patterns of triangle, quartered plane and quardrants and simple cylindrical cuts and with an attribute adapting itself to the wearer's body. Bias draped wear consisted of light and transparent materials and overall surface decoration revealed women's movements and sought the extension of environmental movements and demonstrated its eroticism. On the other hand, biased daywear gained anonymity through cutting true to body line and psychological protective quality as of cape, and this went well with the independent femininity accepting difference as well as pursuing revolution from the inside. The great inflation and the 2nd World War gave birth to escape from reality like surrealistic artistic tendencies and Hollywood films and increased romanticism. Bias draping once underwent unpopularity except in expensive clothes due to knit wear boom and the utilization of new elastic materials, however, it began to receive lights again from pluralization waves and retro tendencies and to be introduced in many designers' collections. A young genius of England, John Galliano improved functions of Haute Couture through creation of new styles and fantastic shows to promote profits in the fashion markets. Bias draping fitted in human body line provides us comfort and aesthetic qualities through careful choice of material and elegance by delicate cutting.

• 복식
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• 제54권8호
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• pp.75-86
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• 2004

This study aims at considering and analyzing the stature of denim clothing as an ornament as well ai how aesthetic meaning and human being's mental side indwell in the development of denims. which will be proceeded in the future, from the view of contemporary culture of dressing. It is found that the stylishness expressed through denim clothing is formed on the basis of the cultures of party, drawing and disorganization, and the result of the study was as follows. Firstly, the culture of party became the source of for decoration of denim clothing, and denim clothing more glamorize women as a party-look which makes the most use of its advantage to be comfortable and able to display in various ways with splendid artificial jewelry, patchwork, dyed pattern which is elaborately embroidered. Secondly, Such culture of drawing is applied to denim clothing so that denims are expressed to make people feel more human being's warmth as being free from the existing stereotype and formality. Thirdly, the most outstanding feature of denim clothing showed in the culture of disorganization is to make the most use of vintage style as it is. This reflects an image of the culture of disorganization under postmodernism, which is free from the traditional conception of the existing dressing by destroying the original form, in the way of slashing, making a hole and tearing. That is, people can sufficiently express not only free sense of release based on postmodernism by wearing denim clothing, but also human being's intrinsic desire for restoration of humanism or human warmth with splendid decoration or various techniques such as handicraft. It can be recognized these features as the reasons, that make denim clothing place themselves as an original fashion item, by giving denim clothing technical decoration in recent years.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.1003-1016
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to reorganize any rusty image including natural modeling characteristic presented from the natural phenomenon to certain patterns in order to create the fashion design that are valued in the expansion of independently expressional area and modeling art. As a method for research, the author analyzed the concept and characteristic for rust with a base of theoretical background by the documental research and realistic consideration, analyzed its modeling characteristic through domestic and overseas pictures, and e-documents as data, inspected the modeling activities of various categories that various images were adapted related to rust, looked into the concept of Digital Textile Printing and its producing procedure as an expressional method, and analyzed the examples of modern dress and its ornament making use of Digital Textile Printing. The conclusions of this study are as below. First, the rust occurred due to the natural phenomenon is the bond with different material like metal, each unique modeling characteristic occurs and harmony of various patterns has abundant aesthetic value. Second, the author could endowed sensible characteristic and speciality with works and could produce creative fashion design that painting, abstractive pattern and harmony of unique sense of colors are significant by using the image of rust, Third, to emphasize natural feeling of rust, the author could develop creative design that simple silhouette and impressive pattern look significant by reorganizing and applying rust according to repetition, increment, rhythm, contract, emphasis and harmony. Fourth, Digital Textile Printing method is used to induce visual effect by the expression of feels of rust, and the author could express the natural patterns, delicate expression for the feels of a material and unique design of emotion.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.809-823
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• 2010

The 21st century is the age of culture and sensitivity. As the interest in the art and culture grows, Artygen who prefers artistic designs grow in number. The desire to enjoy life from the increase of leisure time and financial afford ability created a new trend of party culture. This study analyzes the characteristics of Artygen who pursues artistic sense and sensitivity and suggests party-wear designs that please Artygen and accentuate individuality and personal preferences in a party, which is a type of popular entertainment these days. Through literature review, the background of Artygen and party was examined; First, in order to analyze the feature of art designs, photos of products that were in fashion from 2007 to 2009, (during which the term, 'Artygen', was coined) were collected. Second, in order to analyze the party-wear designs, photos of party-wear in wine party and club party popular among young people in the 20~30's were collected. Through the analysis, the party-wears targeting Artygen was developed based on the characteristics of popular art designs. The results of this study were as follows. First, from the result of analyzing the art design shown in product, casual, romantic, modern, dynamic and gorgeous images were. Second, art design shown in fashion, casual, romantic, chic, dynamic and gorgeous images were. Third, in wine party, romantic, elegant, gorgeous and formal images were in order and in club party, casual, gorgeous, chic and romantic images were in order. Fourth, the study displayed design by connecting aesthetic factor of artistic design to 2 wine party-wear of romantic and gorgeous images and 3 club party dresses of casual, gorgeous and chic images.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.282-295
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• 2018

Hair style allows consumers to express their aesthetic sense and individual beauty. However, due to the attributes of hairdressing services and the high expectations of consumers, complaints are increasing rapidly. This study examined the complaint behavior, compensation and hair salon patronage of consumers. Then, a model is presented that explains the complaint behavior for hairstyling, forms of compensation, and hair salon patronage through empirical analysis. This study was conducted by a survey method. A total of 399 questionnaires were used for the analysis. The data were analyzed using SPSS 23.0 and AMOS 23.0 statistical software. The dimension of complaint behavior for hair style included verbal complaints, non-verbal complaints in the salon and private complaints outside the salon. The forms of compensation included re-procedure, psychological, and material compensation. Hair salon patronage was one-dimensional. These results were obtained through exploratory and confirmatory factor analysis. Then the conceptual model was empirically analyzed by covariance structure analysis and obtained in final form through model modification. Verbal complaint behavior positively influenced re-procedure compensation. In addition, non-verbal complaint behavior had positive effects on psychological and material compensation. Hair salon patronage was positively affected by re-procedure and psychological compensation. However, private complaint behavior had a negative effect on hair salon patronage. The direct and indirect effects of the paths among variables were verified by analyzing the mediating effects of different forms of compensations. It is possible to establish differentiated marketing strategies with these findings for consumers with complaint behaviors by considering the forms of compensation.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.565-577
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• 1999

In this world of globalism, achieving the winning position in the competitive international market is essential in the area of fashion industry. For this reason, we should accomplish this task by adapting our own traditional beauty to the modern fashion design through the modernization of the Korean traditional style. Therefore, this study attempted to analyze the fashion design works of the active Korean fashion designer, Sul Yoon-Hyung, focusing on the subject how she incorporated the modern fashion design with the traditional motives. In order to study this research subject, both quantitative and qualitative research methods were used to collect and analyse the textile motives used in the designer's works found from the major fashion magazines, Bazaar, Vogue, Marie Claire, ELLE, WWD, and Fashion Today during the last seven years(1993-1999). The collected research data, 68 works, was counted and analyzed in terms of the categories of Korean traditional motives they were adapted from, the application techniques, and the aesthetic characteristics. As a result of the study, it was found that Sul Yoon-Hyung has adapted different kinds of Korean traditional motives including motives borrowed from the nature such as flowers and animals, geometrical forms, and Chinese letters with different specific symbolic meanings for each motif and many different techniques were utilized to apply these motives. It was apparent to note that the Korean traditional motives were successfully incorporated into her fashion design works expressing the beauty of oriental grace, naturalism, sophistication, and above all, the modern sense.

• 디지털융복합연구
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• 제12권10호
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• pp.525-530
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• 2014

현대사회는 디자인이 세계를 지배한다고 할 만큼 모든 면에서 새롭고 개성 있는 디자인이 요구되는 시대이다. 이를 뒷받침할 수 있는 것은 그 나라의 민족성이나 전통적 문화의 정체성이 자리하고, 현대 사회가 점차 세계화, 정보화가 되어감에 따라 한국 고유의 전통미를 재해석함과 동시에 계승, 발전시키는 것이 더욱 중요시 되어가고 있다. 조선시대의 여성들이 주로 사용한 장신구에는 수식장신구가 가장 많은 비중을 차지하고, 여인들의 머리모양과 머리장식이 신분이나 사회적 지위에 따라 발달하였다. 하지만 사회의 규범으로 인해 화려한 장식을 절제하고 정교함과 순박한 장신구들이 다수로 그들의 미적 욕구를 표현하였음을 알 수 있다. 문화적 정체성이 중요시되는 현 시대에 부합되는 한국적 이미지의 창출로 현대인의 기호와 접목 될 수 있는 신개념 장신구가 독특한 민족성을 지닌 우리의 문화유산으로, 우리 민족의 고유한 정체성 그리고 전통문화에 대한 새로운 인식과 함께, 한국의 미를 알리는 단초가 되었으면 한다.

• 복식
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• 제63권6호
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• pp.84-96
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• 2013

In researching the ontological status of fashion, a good grasp of fashion can decide the direction of fashion study. Fashion is sometimes considered an area of industry far from art from a point of view of purity of art, in spite of its aesthetic value and expression. However, art properties can be differentiated from the purity of art in modern aesthetics, and fashion properties which were the reason for that fashion to be considered as non-art can be affirmed as the same with properties of contemporary art properties. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to suggest the possibility that general properties of fashion can be accepted in the art arena through justifying art properties deviating from the purity of art. It can provide a boost to fashion's cultural status. For the research method, a literature review and case analysis were carried out through specialty publications related to art history, aesthetics, and fashion, regular publications and websites specializing in fashion, and art museums. Through the research, art properties deviated from the purity of art, which are; tactile sense, impermanence, dailiness, and commercial viability, were justified as being the same as fashion properties. These art properties were not general properties of fine art in modern aesthetics, but the ones occurring in contemporary arts. These properties, now present in contemporary art, can no longer disqualify fashion as a non-art.