• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.112-128
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• 2007

As fantasy films in which super heroes with superhuman abilities play an active part are rapidly becoming more popular, super hero stories are taking root as a new genre in fantasy films. The costumes in films play an important role in visualizing the virtual reality of fantasy films when those costumes are worn by characters so as to express and define them. In the meantime, in the antagonistic structure of good versus evil as a typical subject in these films, it may be said that the costumes of super heroes who advocate good and those of villains who represent evil have been created as an image of power. In this sense, it is necessary to establish an analytic system of how images of the power of good and evil are visually created in costumes for fantasy films. As such, this study seeks to analyze costumes in fantasy films more systemically through semiotic, which has taken root as a science of analysis in all areas of science. From the perspectives of aesthetic semiotic developed by Morris and costume aesthetics, the syntactical dimension is analyzed into formative elements and the principles of costumes; factual and expressive meanings, themes, and inherent meaning, all of which are immanent in costumes, are elicited in the semantic dimension; and the influence of costumes on viewers is described as identification in terms of pragmatics. This study provided a system to analyze costumes in fantasy films(especially 'Superman', 'Batman' and 'Spiderman') from the perspective of Morris' semiotic, and based on the analytic system, examined how 'power' is revealed in the costumes of super heroes and ruffians, and what it implies.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.131-139
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• 2001

The fashion designers in Korea can achieve the winning position in the competitive international market of fashion industry by adapting our own traditional beauty to the modem fashion design through the modernization of the Korean traditional styles. Therefore, this study attempted to analyze the works of the active Korean fashion designer, Lee Young-Hee, focusing on the subject how she incorporated the modem fashion with the elements of Korean traditional costume. In order to study this subject, both quantitative and qualitative research methods were used to collect and analyse the design elements of Korean costume used in the designer's works found from the major fashion magazines, FASHION TODAY, WWD, ELLE, BAZAAR, Marie Claire, Areumdown-Uri-Ot, The Beauty of Korea and FASHION SHOW from 1993 to 1999. The collected research data, 95 works, was counted and analyzed in terms of the formal characteristics borrowed from Korean traditional clothing items and their application techniques. Other aesthetic characteristics of her works such as color, fabric and pattern were also analyzed. As a result of the study, it was found that Lee Young-Hee has adapted many different kinds of major Korean clothing items including 'chima', 'paji', 'po', and 'chogori'. Also it was apparent to note that the formal characteristics of Korean traditional clothing items were successfully incorporated into her fashion design works expressing the beauty of oriental grace, naturalism, sophistication, and above all, the modem sense.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.13-30
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to analyzed the types of Deformation dipicted on the late 1990s western costumes. The late 20th century cultural experience or lifestyle is interpreted with 'popular culture' ,popular culture is described as cultural phenomenon in postmodern condition. Contemporary popular culture may no longer be strictly 'working-class' as the idealistic purists of political formalism would like to , but does emerge from subordinate cultures, from the inventive edges of the consensus, and from the previously ignored and suppressed. It gestured through a widening democratization of styles, sounds and images, to an important remarking , to new possibilities , new perpectives, new projects. The growing importance of popular culture as a source for change of expression in the art, expecially new desire and will of artists has been caused lots of ' Deformation' in their works. Deformation, doesn't mean to represent object faithfully as it were seen through the artist's eyes. In a sense it implies that artists deform it with conscious or unconscious form. So in this study , the phenomenon of the postmodern western costumes is to describe ' formative language' called 'Deformation.' and it is classified three types, that is, 'Deformation of human-body image.' , Deformation of silhouette.' 'Deformation of detail.'. First , Deformation of human-body image is represented by deconstructive , subversive image in western costumes, a lot of costumes types of deconstruction have been shown by fashion designers are emphasized empathy with Deformation of human-body image. Second, Deformation of silhouette is also represented subversion of traditional manner and ultiity, underwear and outwear structure and ugly image. parody image of postumodernism , and so on. Above all, the late 1990s western costumes with Deformation of silhouette was an infinitely larger and more complex world than it appeared from outside and has expressed as a rejection against the values which traditional aesthetic concept had pursued, And parody through the change of internal meaning is to bring about parodox, irony, contempt, satire , unexpectedness by applying the original to inapproporate subject through its substition, inversion. Third, Deformation of detail is represented overdecoration, exaggerative distortion of for , overlapping and fetish image, parody image, kitsch image, and so on , Once fetish achieve a certain' style factor' among trendsettler, they are picked up by internationally famous fashion designers, The characteristics of kitsch are overdecoration , unfitness , imitation , used western costumes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.75-84
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• 2004

Stage costumes perform not only the instrumental but also the expressive functions. The major goal of this study is to develop the functional and aesthetic costume designs for musical players considering the characteristics of instruments. players’ postures. The scope of this study is restricted to the musical costumes for female adult soloists playing the wind and string instruments. This study is composed of theory research, empiricalresearch and manufacturing a real costume. First, theory research contains theory of musical costumes and that of pure musical areas. Concept, characteristics and wearing effects are analysed in theory of musical costumes. Second, designs of instruments and playing postures are analysed in the theory of pure musical areas. Proper and improper designs are compared based on the survey asking the favorite designs of 56 wind and string players. Third, I manufacture a stage costume for a harpist. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, wind and string players think the functionality of costumes more importantly than the esthetic sense. And there are differences in design preferences for different playing postures. Second, string Players basically use arms, fingers and the upper body. Wind players use fingers more than string players and do abdominal breathing. Third, string players think the design of arms and sleeves because of frequent usage of bow and prefer the design without sleeves. On the contrary, wind players think the silhouette importantly because of standing playing posture. Fourth, players don't think that the accessory is not important and want it so long as it doesn't hinder playing. Fifth, shoes plays more important role than costume in case of playing posture with using pedals and moving legs frequently. Lastly, both wind and string players prefer the design with simplicity and comfort most.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.101-111
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the features of the conversational patterns presented on the fashion in the early 2000's and analyze it from cultural view. The expression of the patterns is a result of a creative aesthetic activity, mental activity, and the reflection of the common cognition. And the fashion is a part of the life environment. So the patterns presented on the fashion provides a clue to figure out the common unconscious sense for explaining the culture. The patterns have been expressed with different methods belonging to each culture such as weaving and prints. And those of the each cultural group have been communicating each other. The silk came to the Europe in the 6th century. The textile industry which flourished since 15th century. And they shows the chinoiserie or indian prints, not only the european culture. We can observe that the exchange of the techniques and cultures between cultural groups like the east and the west, and the presentation of the patterns is a way to express their own desires. The patterns presented after 2,000 can be classified by the form and the contents. But, more specifically, the patterns classified by the contents, which is Conversational design, can be categorized as followed according to the origin; reflecting cultural identity, Popular culture, Lohas lifestyle, and art movements. Which can be summarized as that the people have more interest on the different cultural group, diversity, retrospectiveness, and exoticism, which the patterns originally belonged to than on the form itself.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.31-42
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• 2009

Though Adolf Loos, an architect of 1920s said 'ornament is sin', feature of decoration has big gravity in modern architecture & its design trend. Embellishment as a new genre that combined new cultures, trends, and technologies is finally ascribing to skin design approach. For instance it is preference to rags, coarse fabric, external shape of fragments. Expressing surface as a ceremony in architecture or indoor design is also belong to the same category. In this respect, as a new approach on skin, the study focuses on visual and spatial changes that stimulate user's sensibilities consequently since skin design is based on human senses and sensibilities. As skin design expands the scope of human experiences comprehensively, and classify boundaries between internal parts and external parts or make them ambiguous, aesthetic embodiment on new trends is getting done. Through skins on buildings, a message is transmitted to a whole city, an opportunity for the city to be expanded into a new space is created, and human senses are stimulated through refusing a traditional sides by rediscovering decorations in space design and adapting the sides made in limitlessly-expressed styles. Thus, as a new approach on the skins that transmit a message through human senses, the study is to contemplate skin design, and to interpret them as works to eliminate boundaries among architecture, fashion, interior/exterior space design(especially exhibition and international fair)following their suits. Through interpreting this subject, the study is to understand and analyze comtemporary expansion situation on interactions among fashion and architecture, and interior design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.74-90
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• 2010

The history of contemporary art in the 20th century can be said the history of changes. Today the variety of objects destroy the boundaries of each genre. This study aims to understand the relationship between fashion and art that becomes closer by examining contemporary art in the Gwangju Biennale 2008 to enlarge the range of understanding of mutual communication between contemporary art and fabrics which are the object of fashion. The research method was to investigate the characteristics and expression methods of object fabrics shown in contemporary art through the review of papers published at home and abroad, related literatures, and Internet materials. Also, the meaning, technique, and methods of fabrics were analyzed from works introduced in the Gwangju Biennale 2008. In order to achieve this purpose, fabric was examined as the object of work in Gwangju Biennale 2008. As a result, it is found that fabric plays an important role in changing environment newly with more dynamic, abundant, and comfortable and softer feeling than any other artistic materials and enlarging the boundaries of artistic materials by exploring formative possibility. Furthermore, its multi-dimensional expression characteristic presents unbounded possibility. Fabric which has long formed close relationship with human life has taken its place as one genre now. It departs from the past principles of fabric handicraft and the restriction of a classical norm and becomes characteristic of very wide-ranging selection of materials and free expression. Its soft and warm texture provides emotional stability for a human. Although the peculiarity of fabric as an active concept to human environment and new materials and technique based on the aesthetic consciousness of a human rely on the high development of industry, it is significant that artists' liberation from their concept and material sense is accompanied by the expression of freedom.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.1-16
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• 2020

Hijab as a symbol of women's oppression due to the opening and reform of Islamic State group, is becoming more diverse as younger generation begins to dress more freely than ever before, spreading the perception that it is a fashion item. In response, this research conducted a theoretical review about the history of hijab, various forms of hijab, and characteristics of hijab using relevant literature, media reports, and fashion media articles. As an empirical study, image-oriented photo data shared by Tehran Street Fashion from 2015 to November 2019 were analyzed separately by fashion majors into color, pattern, and hijab-making forms. According to the analysis, six different fashion images were categorized as romantic feminine, modern chic, natural elegant, classic formal, sporty casual and gorgeous ethnic. For Muslim women in the past, hijab was worn as a repressive and closed sense by the religious system. However, in modern times, it is a way to express one's style and ideas as a fashion item. It is also and a means to express one's thoughts and beliefs. Through aesthetic consideration of Hijab as a fashion item, it was found that it was a medium for freedom of expression and a medium for beauty and individuality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.103-117
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to clarify the adaptation of beauty of traditional dress depicted contemporary Korean fashion design. For this purpose, the external form and the internal meaning based on 'the double roots' proposed by W$\ddot{o}$lfflin were analyzed in Korean traditional dress. Documentary studies and objective studies were done with descriptive and content analytic methods. And homospatial process was devised in order to develop the traditional identity in contemporary fashion design. The results were as follows: 1. As the external form, H. O. A silhouette, chogori, ch'ima, paji, and po concerning internal type, kaftan, flat form related to structured type were represented. Traditional color sense were love of white, contrasting as well as analogous color harmony shown often in nature phenomena, and temperate achromatic color harmony. Texture were characterized as rough and coarse expressing vividness, fine and smooth expressing delicateness and tenderness. As the internal meaning, the beauty of purity related to nature, tragedy, and symbolism were represented. 2. Since 1980's. Korean fashion designers frequently applied unstructural kaftan form and H silhouette to Korean fashion design, and sought natural and pliable line in whole dress. Use of white and achromatic color harmony as well as use of linnen were prominent. Designers' aesthetic consciousness was pursuit of the beauty of nature. Representative designers who concentrated on expressing traditional beauty were Lee Shinwoo, Sul Yoonhyung, Jin Taiok and others. 3. A homospatial process could be a method in the creative design which enables to express Korean identity in fashion design, and could suggest ideas of new designs full of Korean identity by superimposed and fused imaginery.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.2
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• pp.233-246
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• 2015

Focus on Digital Fashion Image, the conceptual framework for the thesis is established from Virtuality in Digital Art. Formative characteristics and aesthetic characteristics were studied by classifying the Digital Fashion Image applied and expressed by digital media and technology. A detective research method was used for a case study. A literature study for case-by-case data was analyzed with focus on the works expressing fashion that utilized digital media and technology since the 2000s. Through this study, the Digital revolution has created the socio-cultural impact of a Virtual representation to implement technology and fashion culture that finds ways to take advantage of the image shown in a Digital Fashion Media by understanding Virtuality. The results are as follows. First, it was a re-formation of the fashion culture through the experience of virtuality with mental zone parameters between the media 'Mediation Code'. Reflect the reality of the virtual environment as represented by a cultural image of fashion brands and fashion that reset the team relationship and formed a Homo Ludens cultural code. Second, 'Interactive Exchange' acts on the exchange interaction between the method of digital technology, the human and the machine as well as the technical interoperability of network elements and techniques. This exchange is applied to fashion images that express emotion. Forming personalized fashion items and the user interactively storage that expresses the interactive exchange to forward the identity of the emotional fashion by a change in the message delivery system fashion. Third, the emphasis on intuitive artistic expression 'Synesthesia Immersion' induces a sense of immersion and excitement through the fusion of the interconnected. Enhance a visual image in fashion sensory representation and maximize a tactile and visual virtual reality involvement.