• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.53-61
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• 2005

With the acceptance of western culture, our traditional culture is in the crisis of disappearing. This is especially evident in the clothing and textile field. Therefore it seems essential to apply the traditional Korean aesthetics to our clothing. The purpose of this study is to reconstruct the types of design and analyse the characteristics of patterns expressed in traditional roof-tile. This study attempted to use the roof-tile patterns as motive for all tapestry and fashion design work to realize a creative expression of formative world through on-screen restructuring. The traditional roof-tile patterns were selected for this study because they must be the products created with our ordinary aesthetic values and techniques, and thus may represent our people's unique culture. After all, the expression for a work should be based not on simple representations of a given object but on restructuring of diverse unique forms according to worker's subjective senses. A piece of clothing with the expression of traditional and formative must combine traditional aesthetics of tradition and form. The application of traditional and formative value of Korean pattern in clothing made to be adaptable for wear in our everyday lives. Today there various attempts to combine traditional aesthetics with modem design. Also, the development of unique Korean design aesthetics within the clothing will allow for a distinct elegance that can be recognized by the world know about the Korean culture through the high standards of our clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.134-142
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• 2003

Performances of Taekwondo fabrics were evaluated in respect of fiber component. yarn count, weave structure and wearing comfort. As a beginning step, we investigated the present situation of Taekwondo wears by questionnaire from pro and amateur Taekwondo players. Samples employed in this study were cotton/nylon blend fabric that was newly woven for this study as well as fabrics of current Taekwondo wears for sale in the market. Their fundamental properties measured were such as air permeability, water vapor transport. wickability, absorption rate, Qmax values, thermal conductivity, durability, hand value, and etc. In addition, subjective wearing sensations were evaluated using Taekwondo wears made of those fabrics. From the results of the objective measurement and the subjective wearing test, we estimated the total fitness of fabrics as a Taekwondo wear. From the questionnaire we could see that pro players and amateurs wanted highly absorbing, quick drying, and soft-tough and complained abrasive surfaces and static elasticity of current fabrics. In view of the results so far achieved, nylon blended fabrics newly woven in this study, showed better comfort-related properties from both of the objective and subjective tests. It was also represented that finer yams enhanced water absorption and touch, and fabrics with rough surface such as honeycomb weave was superior in wearing comfort as well as aesthetic appearance.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.71-82
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to correctly understand the costume of Qing dynasty in the court painting. The starting point of this study was that the painting typically reflects the cultural values, social significations, costume and aesthetic outlook of that period when the paintings were done. Based on this regard, this study analyzed the costume of figure paintings in the court painting of the Qing dynasty that complied and edited by the Palace Museum. The court dress of Qing dynasty represented not only the spiritual world of Manchu tribes but also the influences of Chinese traditional culture. The court dresses of Kangxi and Qianloug showed definitely the luxury of life of Qing court. The everyday dress of Qing dynasty reflected the nomadic environments and it was very simple. The hunting dress of Qing dynasty was very developed and also represented horse riding and hunting activities of their traditional life. The ladies of Qing dynasty enjoyed to dress the costume of old Chinese style. The appearance of noble women was fragile and slim.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.842-856
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• 2010

The relationships between fashion and architecture have been interactive. Since the fashion has had the role to decide the structure type of urban environment, it is becoming the new sign of space boundary. This study searches the social and cultural characteristics of Nomadism and the relationships among all kinds of changing objects. After then, the module system characteristics are meditated by analyzing the composition method of module system in architecture. Moreover, the study examines the aesthetic values in the fashion and body architecture from artistic aspect. Based on the above discussion, the followings are the characteristics of body architecture as the social structures expressed in modern fashion. The liquidity is the fluid form of dynamic structures. It shows the extended space form which produces the continuity. The transformation is the variable structure by module system and it forms the diversified structural combination. The movement combines the controlling function to be able to regulate and move freely the body related objects. The convergence is the text combination interpenetrated mutually in enlarged space. Through this, the non-linear continuity and the access of the individual factors are shown.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.46 no.10
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• pp.37-48
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• 2008

This study re-examines new aesthetic values pursued by Givenchy, analyzing by the Haute Couture line's chief designers. The following conclusions have been reached: Hubert de Givenchy pursued modernity, infused with simplicity and structured stability. In particular, Audrey Hepburn, who was a loyal client and used his line in several movies, provided him the platform for international exposure which he used to further develop what became known as the "Hepburn" style. The subsequent brief tenure of John Galliano did yield the fantastic and magnificent "Galliano-style", but with irregularity. Based on romanticism, it redefined fashion using a wide range of colors, subjects and decoration. His successor, Alexander McQueen, applied opposite elements using a hybrid technique of pastiche, parody and collage. With innovative inspiration he compromised the concepts of gender, time, space and cultures and recreated futuristic forms of nature, animals, insects and mythical images. Julien Macdonald, who was appointed in 2001 as the Artistic Director for the women's collections, minimized his individual style and preferred feminine, graceful and sexy silhouettes. He breathed fresh life in to Givenchy Haute Couture, reinterpreting the Hepburn style in a modernistic mode. Being passed on the responsibility for both collections (i.e., haute couture and ready-to-wear) in 2005, Riccardo Tisci redefined elegance, combining his unique and tailored gothic style with Givenchy's grace. He is developing the future of Givenchy, experimenting with volume, silhouettes, new kinds of fabric and techniques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.1 s.91
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• pp.101-112
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• 2005

One of the curiosities harbored most by anthropologists may be why women are so different from men physically. One of such differences must be the breast. Female animals do not have such a swollen breast even when they nurse their young. We can find many Western garments highlighting the breast, but in Korea the tradition has been that the breast should not be highlighted. It was because the large breast was deemed useful that Western people appreciated it highly. In general, it is conceived that to ancient Westerners' eyes, the nursing function of the breast was very mysterious, because the food supplies were insufficient. Although the size of a breast does not affect its nursing function, Westerners may have thought that it did. To the contrary, in the societies with rich agricultural products, the breast was not much emphasized as the reproductive organs. Since people are more and more concerned about their body and the breast or one of the body parts characterizing the femininity is regarded as an important element of design, it may well be significant to research into the breast designs for development of the fashion design. With such basic conceptions in mind, this study was aimed at reviewing the artworks featuring women's breast and their historical background and thereupon, analyzing the aesthetic values of the breast-featuring designs by dividing them into four categories in large.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.8
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• pp.137-151
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• 2007

This study was aimed to analyze and investigate a diversity of aesthetic values expressed in the military look designs of the Paris collections by using content analysis method to find what design characteristic and image emerged in the later 20th century. A total of 267 military look works shown in fashion magazines such as Vogue and Collezioni Donna over the period between 1996 and 2000 were collected as research data, which were classified into 5 categories such as item, silhouette, color, color coordination, fashion image. The results were summarized as follows: first, it was found that coat was the most preferred item in expressing the military look image. Second, the straight line was the most referred silhouette, which indicates that it was the most suitable silhouette in expressing he bisexual image of the military look. Third, achromatic colors such as black and white were found to be of the highest frequency, which shows that achromatic colors continued to be proposed as fashionable colors around 1996 and this influence was effected in the military look. Finally, monochromatic coordination accounted for more than half of the military look, through which it could be explained that designers utilized it greatly to make an effective expression of the masculine image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.9
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• pp.142-150
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• 2008

A universal design means a progressive and challenging design in the 21st century which can satisfy the demands from not only aged people and disabled people but also numerous members of our society. This research aims to apply a universal design commonly used in architecture (environment) and products to costumes, so as to convert the design into a universal fashion which can meet the aesthetic values, desires, and functionality of aged people and disabled women. After applying the said five universal fashion principles and design factors, a total of 20 pieces of universal fashion prototype products are produced through functional designs and designs utilizing knit materials and health & functionality materials. In addition, a direction to develop universal fashion products is suggested for costume manufacturers, for the purpose of facilitating the practical use of a universal fashion. The present author expects that human-centered universal fashion costumes shall propose the orientation of the interest in future new designs, beyond the scope of a jump in the quality of simple functional costumes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.34-40
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• 2006

Fascism is a term that began to be used from the late 1930s, means an idea and a system that the strong power of the state intervenes or control people's life based on the argument that the existential value of individuals is found only in the total. Fascist looks, which resulted from World War I and II, had brought a new pattern in women's fashion inspired by men's military uniforms. Thus, the purpose of this study was to identify fascist fashion trends in the first half of the twentieth century and to infer various aesthetic values of fascism expressed in fascist fashion looks. The results of this study indicated that expressions of fascism reflected the current ideology of rebellion and appealed to the original national sentiment of the masses. Fascism occurred in response to the contradiction of capitalism and its general crisis had emerged as an ideology with the highest popularity symbolizing power and government during the first half of the twentieth century. It was expressed in military looks as self-centered nationalism and yearning for minorities. Second, fascist fashion looks were not only for political and sexual temptation with the image of power but also for the display of women's status and roles through the bold expression of sexual attractiveness. Finally, fascist fashion looks expressed medieval images praising the feudal age in imagination that contained heroism and at the same time achieved integration under strict social hierarchical order.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.3 no.2 s.2
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• pp.39-46
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• 2005

Art-Make-up has resulted in occupying one of the central areas of this culture. Art Make-up is currently undergoing various changes. The viewpoint of modern make-up is the infiniteness of emotion such as the subjectively individualized expressions and aesthetic values breaking with conventional thought. The most significant change is the idea of the 'grotesque'. The purpose of this research is to re-clarify the development of the diversity, professionalism and artistic feature through the study of Art make-up based on the 'grotesque' style. This also strives to focus attention at observing the deep and mysterious workings of the human inner world. In order to explain the features of 'grotesque' Art make-up, six images below are presented. Firstly, Inharmonious images. Secondly, disgusting inhuman images. Thirdly, mechanical images. Fourthly, distorted and exaggerated images. Fifthly, diabolic and horrific images. And, lastly, playful images. These six images thoroughly demonstrate the 'grotesque' features. The fact at we can see the 'grotesque' features in Art make-up explains the enormous growth of Art make-up and the unlimited range of expression in this field. It also implies that the choice of material and theme is not restricted to universal artistic criteria. In closing, it is necessary that Art make-up is thought of not as actual art but more as a tool for its subjects. As a result, this research will provide valuable information for studies in the future.