• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.516-524
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to analyze the variation of body shape and to. divide growth period into some age groups based on body type. Duncan Test, Heath-Carter's somatotyping method and allottery equation (y=baa) were applied to semiautomatic data concerning obesity/leakiness. The materials were 309 females aged from 12 to 17 years old. The following results were obtained: 1. In the Developmental trend of the human body, the 12-13 age groups belonged to the acceleration stage of adolescent growth spurt. The 14-15 age groups belonged to the latter period of adolescent growth. The 16-17 age groups belonged to the termination stage of adolescent growth. 2. In the Heath-Carter's somatotyping method, the average somatotype changed into M.M- C-C-M-D with age. 3. In the alphamerical analysis, the first critical point appeared at the stature 146 Cm in case of weight, LBM and fat. The second critical point appeared at the stature 154-157 Cm in case of LBM and Fat. All the three measurement showed positive allotmentty.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1359-1371
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• 2011

The purpose of this paper is to compare two avatars made using direct and manual methods and to evaluate the fit and appearance of two virtual garments on the direct and manual avatars. In this study, two subjects were measured by $[TC]^2$ body scanner and the avatars and virtual garments were created by OptiTex software. The direct avatar was made by the direct importation of 3D body scan data and the manual avatar was made by manual input from extracted body measurement. Two virtual garments in a tank-top were evaluated by distance, transparency, and stretch maps. In the results of comparing difference of the direct and manual avatars, the bust and back of the manual avatar are protruded slightly more than that of the direct avatar and the manual avatar is slightly larger dimensions at the bust, waist, abdomen, and hip area in the side view in case of subject 1 and 2. In the results of comparing difference of the fit and appearance of two virtual garments on the direct and manual avatars, in case of subject 1 and 2, the back of the virtual garment on the manual avatar are protruded more than that of the direct avatar. Also, the ease in the bust area of the virtual garment on the manual avatar with a projected bust area was smaller than that of the virtual garment on the direct avatar and the stretch of that of the manual avatar was also high in the bust area. The results of this study are expected to be used as basic information in the apparel industry using virtual try-on technology.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.55-66
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• 2015

The objective of this study is to propose a method by which movement fitness can be evaluated using a three-dimensional virtual garment simulation program. To this end, five types of jean pants for men were evaluated on the program by setting the avatars to make particular movements to examine the level of pressure on each body part. To verify whether the clothing pressure measurement produces valid and reliable results, virtual garment simulation program was utilized. The results indicated that there were significant differences in the levels of pressure on body parts depending on the type of test garment and motion. In addition, the clothing pressure measurement results were in line with the appearance evaluation results suggested by a previous study. Based on this set of results, the nomological validity of the clothing pressure measurement program used in this study was verified. Moreover, we employed an appearance evaluation along with the clothing pressure measurement to verify the reliability of the program; there was a high correlation between clothing pressure measurements and appearance evaluation measurements, indicating that measuring clothing pressures may well compensate for the limitations of appearance evaluation. We expect the results of this study to make valuable contributions in facilitating the digitalization of the fashion industry. Furthermore, this study also is significant in that it has suggested 3D virtual fitting programs as a solution to the long-criticized problem related to the evaluation of movement fitness in existing virtual garment simulation programs.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.191-203
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• 2016

The 3D virtual fitting system is a new and very efficient system replacing real fitting in apparel industry and on-line shopping. It is a win-win system for both of consumer and manufacturer which not only reduces design and production time but also resolves consumer's complaints by checking the wearing image beforehand. It is a must-have item in the future. The purpose of this study is to analyze sizing menu, terms, and current status and to figure out problems of avatar sizing programs which substitute human bodies in virtual fitting. We chose three existing outstanding programs in domestic and global market, compared and analyzed the program, manual, and terms that are used in avatar sizing, and investigated the strengths, weaknesses, problems of options and terms and finally suggested an alternative terms. The revealed problems are as follows: each program supports various avatars ranging from male to female, from child to adult, and from oriental style to western style. The image of the avatar could be changed through the options for hair style, shoes and accessories. But we found out some problems. The avatar body types are far from actual human body types, avatar sizing menus and item terms are different from program to program, and terms not yet standardized. Cooperative efforts of industry and academy on standardization of sizing menus and terms should be emphasized for the virtual fitting system to be widely used like the other computer graphic programs or word editors.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.56-62
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• 2005

Fancy Yarn has developed diverse textures in fabrics, reducing the time in yarn and fabric production or apparel making in order to develop creative goods. In this study aimed to propose the use of a 4D box system to make fancy yarn shapes with loops, knops and spirals and the like. The change in texture was analysed and simulated to produce a suitable fabric image by using the fancy yarns fabric. The results are as follows. The plain weave, 2/2 basket weave, 2/2 twill weave, 2/2 2 complete broken weaves, and 5 harness sateen weaves were woven and a fabric image formed. In the case of the loop and the knop yarns fabric image, compared to the twisted fabric image the surface was covered by loops or some parts became partially black. In the case of the spiral shape it showed pattern continuity in spiral shapes 1, 2 and 3. The more twisted spirals produced a diamond shaped pattern or a twill line and a herring bone shaped twill line. An evenly distributed black fabric image appeared in 5 harness sateen weave. For the loop shape the broken weave or 5 harness sateen weave was produced; basket weave and broken weave for the knop yarn 1 or knop yarn 2; and for the spiral shape a plain fabric or 5 harness sateen weave were produced much similar to the fabric image. The surface texture of the mapped image compared to the twisted fabric image produces fancy yarn fabric images covered with loops or irregular spots caused by the knop and the spiral. Therefore it is appropriate or suitable for the simulation of tweed or woolen wool fabrics. The fabric image which produced consistent and continuous lines is therefore more suitable for simulations of twill or herringbone fabric images.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.634-644
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• 2021

This study aims to propose various ways to utilize CLO, which focuses mainly on the production of 3D virtual samples, by comparing it with the pattern drafting functions of Four apparel CAD experts, who have teaching experience in YUKA and CLO, participated in a focus group interview, and a basic bodice prototype drafting was carried out by each participant to evaluate the pattern drafting functions of YUKA and CLO. The result of this study showed that the pattern drafting tools of YUKA are subdivided since YUKA is a CAD tool inherently specialized in pattern making. Though CLO provided a relatively limited pattern drafting menu compared to YUKA, it was found that pattern drafting could be accomplished with the help of supplementary tools and functions. This finding suggests that each CAD offers the corresponding tools for the same use of menus or functions in the prototype drafting process. The major difference between YUKA and CLO is that YUKA defines the pattern area by a set of line segments, whereas CLO utilizes an outline composed of closed curves. YUKA provides various specific tools according to the options such as angles, straight lines, and curves, while CLO produces the same results using combinations of a limited number of tools. Compared with YUKA, the advantage of CLO is its user-friendly task environment such as the Windows-based user interface, from the usability perspective. This study concludes that pattern drafting education using CLO would help not only industrial 3D design practitioners but also pattern education in academia

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.586-606
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• 2023

This study initiated research aligned with the body positivity movement, aiming to explore size diversity for groups facing relative size discrimination due to their deviation from average body types. Using KS adult women's apparel dimensions as a reference, jackets were developed for women in their 20s to 30s who belong to the small petite-size (S[P]) category, which is characterized by a height under 155cm (petite) and a bust-circumference from 72cm to less than 82cm (small). Using 3D virtual-fitting, we conducted experiment-pattern production and refinement and subsequent real-fitting evaluations by participants to objectively validate aesthetics and comfort. The study's findings are as follows: First, utilizing a 3D virtual-fitting program by identifying 'creases' and 'garment pressure points' in the jacket appearance, experiment patterns were refined and real jackets were produced. This approach addressed challenges in recruiting participants with specific body types and allowed for efficient research in terms of cost and time. Second, through real-fitting evaluations, basic-fit and slim-fit jackets labeled as <79-88-150> were developed for the S(P) size. we presented 'size spec' and 'ease allowance' for jackets by waist fit. Both fits received positive evaluations with approximately 53.5cm sleeve length, and 11.7cm shoulder length. The ease allowances for the basic-fit jacket were approximately 9.2cm at the bust circumference, 12.8cm at the waist circumference, and 6cm at the hip circumference. Similarly, the slim-fit jacket exhibited ease allowances of about 4.8cm at the bust circumference, 4cm at the waist circumference, and 4cm at the hip circumference, receiving positive evaluations for aesthetics and comfort.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.241-248
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• 2001

Re water resistance of shell fabrics intended for we in outdoor apparel was measured using three different standard test methods, ASTM D 751, hydrostatic resistance, procedure A(Mullen test -- with and without a fabric support) and Procedure B (Hydrostatic head test). A database of information on their water resistance performance was created. The data collected with different methods were correlated and the advantages and disadvantages of each method were compared. The Mullen test with a support appears to give higher and more favorable water resistance values on shell fabrics preventing fabric rupture during the test. The hydrostatic head test gave lower hydrostatic pressure values than those measured on the two Mullen tests. The Mullen test is recommended for testing the water resistance of fabrics that high a relatively high water resistance because the Mullen tester applies a wide range of pressure. The hydrostatic head test is recommended for testing the fabrics that have relatively low water resistance. The area of the fabric sample that is in contact with the water is smaller in the Mullen test, so higher pressure levels can be reached and more samples should probably be tested to get a representative value for each fabric types. Furthermore, the hydrostatic head test was deemed more repeatable than the Mullen tests in his study.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.159-170
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• 2016

This study is aimed to research the trend of studies on the evaluation of clothing fit using the domestic research journals. clothing fit has long been regarded as the most important element to customers in clothing appearance. Understanding fit from a consumer's perspective is complex. 85 articles were collected from domestic academic sites (KISS, DBpia, KiSTi). Many clothing fit articles published on the 2011-2016 year. In research target, young women were more than other age groups. On the evaluation of clothing fit, method of clothing fit classified survey using the questionnaire and wearing test. Many articles were used the survey using the questionnaire, 57.7%. The other articles were used wearing test with professional analyst and objective evaluation tool. Objective evaluation was used 3D virtual wearing systems (i-designer, DC suit, CLO et al). In the survey using the questionnaire and wearing test using the objective evaluation, jacket and pants were researched on the clothing items mainly. Many young women put on the jacket and pants to active energetically. In the future, researches related clothing fit need to develop the objective and accuracy evaluation tool of clothing fit.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.40-47
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• 2006

Three-dimensional body scanners were used for years in the clothing manufacturing fields. The 3D body surface provide essential data to draft patterns for mass customization, virtual fit model, and computerized patternmaking systems. This research proposed the methods of drafting patterns for men's jacket by using three dimensional body scan data. Eight male subjects were scanned, the surface data was flattened. The differentials of the flattened body surface and the jacket draft were measured, and analyzed the regressions. To verify the fit of the patterns, the jacket was constructed by the regression formulae and tested by experts. The fit of the jacket were significantly improved rather than a ready-made suit especially the shoulder areas. This means that the methods that we proposed were good to improve the fit of the garments and could be used effectively to implement mass customization strategies in the apparel retail industry.