• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.123-132
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• 2023

The term 'module' is an architectural term. It refers to the components or systems that make up a finished product. As industries develop, modules have become one of the methods that can create diverse and creative designs. Traditional modular fashion design mainly focused on structural methods, such as the combination, assembly, overlap, and arrangement of modules, as well as the tessellation of geometric shapes. However, in this paper, significance lies in exploring the application of shape grammar, a design method in architecture, to fashion design. It aims to search for ways to express three-dimensional designs, derive designs that can be worn and produced, and propose fashion design by applying the rules of shape grammar to the design process. Through this analysis, the paper aims to examine the methods and characteristics of shape grammar. The research method of this paper is as follows. First, by utilizing optimized programs for implementing the modules of shape grammar, it was possible to propose a method for producing modules of shape grammar and suggest module designs. Additionally, effective methods of representation using the Clo 3D program were explored in the design development process. Second, by applying shape grammar to the fashion design process, five-dimensional modular fashion designs were proposed, including a bolero, dress 1, dress 2, setup, and coat. The proposed modular fashion design using shape grammar in this paper provides a rational design process that differentiates itself from traditional modular fashion design. By formalizing the shapes between modules and creating rules, it overcomes the limitations of design that rely on the designer's intuition or sensibility and enables the development of more diverse modular fashion designs. This application of shape grammar in fashion design can provide an important direction in exploring a sustainable fashion industry.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.15-31
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• 2023

This study aimed to propose a fashion design development method using the external and internal characteristics of the flower and bird paintings in traditional Korean folk paintings. As a research method, external and internal characteristics of folk paintings were examined through previous studies and literature research, and folk painting patterns were developed into digital textile designs. Five 3D digital fashion designs were proposed using the CLO 3D program. The external characteristics of folk paintings were as follows: simplification and planarization of object representation, diversification of viewpoints, ignorance of perspective and symmetrical enumeration, strong colors and contrast effects, and the simultaneous representation of time. The internal characteristics of folk paintings were as follows: symbolic meaning, the beauty of free humor, modest aesthetics, complexity of reality and fantasy, and desire of shamanism. The results are as follows. Firstly, the flower and bird painting was a decorative painting style that emphasized decorative beauty and was suitable for developing fashion designs with Korean originality because of the symbolic and internal meanings. Simple layouts and bold free-spirited representations were effective ways to fill the screen with objects and gave the pattern a decorative effect. Secondly, developing a virtual clothing prototype based on digital design method using the external and internal characteristics of folk paintings and producing realistic fashion designs suggest the integrated use of science and technology, embodying modern fashion through the combination of digital fashion content and traditional cultural content. Thirdly, as a result of the development of 3D digital fashion designs, an eco-friendly and sustainable fashion design methods with virtual clothing can suggest a design development method that saves time and cost in the fashion design process while considering the environment.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.93-106
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• 2023

The study is to develop and present a leggings pattern that is suitable for the human body by using a standard body type avatar for a female in her 30s. As a research method, the average body type was selected from adult women in their 30s, and the appearance was evaluated using the CLO software program. The data analysis of this study compared the dimensions and shape of each part by legging. The leggings pattern suggested based on the above research results was determine to be a total length of 80.6cm and hip length of 24cm, and the knee length was set by dividing the legging in half from the waist to the hem and then adding 5cm. These figures were evaluated higher than Company D in terms of the adequacy of the upper part of the front and rear plates of Company A as well as the adequacy of the knee lines. Company A's figures were applied and corrected. For the front plate, the waist circumference was divided by 4, and 3.5cm was removed, and the hip circumference was set by dividing the hip circumference by 4, and 3.8cm was removed. In the appearance evaluation results Company D was highly evaluated in the suitability evaluation of the waist and hips, and the waist and hips were set using the pattern of Company D. The length of the front panel was modified by dividing the hip circumference by 4 and adding 1.8cm to the length, and the length of the back panel was modified by dividing the hip circumference by 3 and adding 8cm after dividing the hip circumference by 0.8cm.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.107-122
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• 2023

This study analyzed the style, dimensions, fabric patterns, colors, and fabrics of a traditional Chinese women's dress from the Zhou Dynasty, and reconstructed it in the form of a virtual garment using 3D CLO. Based on ancient flat image data and three-dimensional portrait data, who wore them, how they were worn, and how they were coordinated was analyzed. In order to analyze the size and pattern of the straight Ju Chines dress, data from the excavation report and the tomb owner's anthropometric measurements were combined to infer the wearing condition and organize the sculptural features. Dimensional analysis was carried out using a well-preserved small-scale woven cotton cloth as a restoration model, and the horizontal and vertical dimensions were reasonably estimated using the shape proportioning method. The analysis of the colors and patterns of the fabrics was based on the colors and patterns of the fabrics excavated from Masan Tomb No. 1 during the Eastern Zhou, Qin, and Han periods. Finally, a virtual model was created using data from the excavation report and the age and height information of the owner of the excavated robe, and the pose and size of the virtual model were determined using 3D CLO. Based on the previous research data, the garment was virtually sewn and simulated. The shape, pressure, and strain of the garment in different postures was also compared. Through the research direction of pattern and 3D restoration, this research maximizes the restoration of Chinese traditional women's dress and presents it in a more intuitive, comprehensive, and vivid way.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.15-32
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• 2024

Modern fashion manifests in forms that mirror the diverse lifestyles and personalities of consumers. It transcends mere aesthetic designs and embodyies practicality. There is a preference for comfortable, highly functional attire, leaning towards easy wear. Casual wear, in particular, embraces a sense of freedom not found in standard business attire. It seeks a comfortable, natural silhouette through tactile fabrics rather than sportswear. Loose, drop shoulder sleeves enhance comfort and mobility and often become key elements in casual wear designs. Given that clothing must balance aesthetics with functionality, especially across various activities, it is natural to prioritize functional design. Research on patterns suited for dynamic conditions is imperative. The rise of drop shoulder styles necessitates the development of corresponding sleeve patterns. It is crucial to differentiate pattern drafting methods due to the resulting silhouette variations. This study aims to categorize drop shoulder pattern drafting techniques based on shoulder extension and angle dimensions. Each method will be examined, and drop shoulder sleeve patterns and wear forms will be studied using a 3D virtual system. This research holds significance in providing valuable insights and foundational data for designing diverse drop shoulder sleeve patterns, contributing to their practical development and advancement.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.17-31
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• 2024

The purpose of this study is to propose a modern use of traditional culture by developing creative fashion designs that combine modern and traditional styles based on an analysis of traditional costumes of women in the Tang Dynasty of China. The characteristics of the Tang Dynasty women's costume are as follows. The Tang Dynasty women's costume consists of a short coat (衫, Shan), skirt (裙, Qun), half-arm shawl (半臂, Banbi), and short embroidered cape (帔, Pei). The colors are succinct and elegant, commonly red, yellow, green and navy blue in its entirety. It may be classified by pattern that blend plant patterns, animal patterns, geometric patterns, and two or more mixed patterns. On the basis of the characteristics for traditional women's costume during the Tang Dynasty, the CLO 3D program is employed to develop digital fashion design for four pairs of 3D digital clothing and the production of two pairs of work product. The results are as follows. First, the development of fashion design reflecting the design characteristics of traditional women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty of China could be expressed as fashion design reflecting unique values while connecting tradition and modernity. Second, the 3D virtual clothing program displays an extremely important effect in design deployment and pattern arrangement by having efficiency and convenience in clothing production. The CLO 3D program is closely combined with the 2D design and 3D effect and heightened efficiency while being appropriate to realize sustainability while saving processing time and energy for the sample products. Third, the production of an actual product by facilitating the 3D virtual clothing design may lead to time savings and an effective economy and may allow for the comparison of digital fashion design and actual products as well as confirming the effects of digital fashion design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.81-96
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to provide fundamental information for standardization of 3D body measurement. This research analyzes errors occurring in the process of extracting body size from 3D body scan data. First, as a result of analyzing basic state of the 3D body scanner's calibration, the point number of each section was almost the same, while the right and left as well as the front and back coordinates of the center of gravity are not, showing unstable data. Nevertheless, the latter does not influence on the size of cylinder such as width and circumference. Next, we analyzed point coordinates variations of scan data on a mannequin nude by life casting. The result was great deflection in case of complicated or horizontal sections including the reference point beyond proper distance from centers of four cameras. In case of the mannequin's size, accuracy proves comparatively high in that measurement errors in height, width, depth, and length dimension occurred all within allowable errors, only except chest depth, while there were a lot of measurement errors in a circumference dimension. Secondly, analysis of accuracy of automatic extraction identification program algorithm presented that a semi-automatic measurement program is better than an automatic measurement program. While both of them ate very acute in parts related to crotch, they are not in armpit related parts. Therefore, in extracting of human body size from 3D scan data, what really matters seems to parts related to armpits.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.117-136
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to analyze changes in high-tech fashion along with the types and characteristics of high-tech fashion that have appeared recently providing diverse material for the fashion field. High-tech fashion requires such research to learn how much distance one has in one's life. It is also meaningful to predict what direction high-tech fashion research may be needed. For research methods, previous research and literary studies were considered and photographs in which high-tech techniques were used were collected using the keyword 'high-tech fashion'. High-tech fashion types can be organized into the four types of luminescent types, mutual interaction types, 3D printing fashion, and virtual fashion. The research results were as follows. First, luminescent fashion was an important expression method of high-tech fashion. Materials for luminescent fashion first started with LED electric wire connections and many methods have been attempted with the appearance of electrically conductive clothing material, such as luminescent lasers and beam projectors. Second, interactive high-tech fashion often appears as variable fashion. The work of Hussein Chalayan, which was combined with advanced technology, set up a base for variable type interactive high-tech fashion in the 2000s. As bioengineering technology has developed, fashion that interacts with the environment without an energy source has appeared and the interaction among fashion, people, and the environment can be seen. Third, diverse forms of expressiveness in virtual reality such as 3D CLO shows a great difference with past high-tech fashion. Simple and diverse attempts made through virtual fittings reduce the limitations of time and space, permit interaction, and add a sense of reality through speed and dynamic physical beauty. Fourth, 3D printed fashion expresses complex and detailed clothing material that is different from those before with the development of computer 3D modeling technology. Modeling that can imitate geometric and bio-engineered structures is possible and mysterious feelings are passed on to people through creative expressions.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.13-28
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of hippie style in emerging brands pursuing the hippie spirit, examine the changes in hippie style, and apply them to the design development process to propose a hippie style design that reflects contemporary characteristics. The research method of this study was used to grasp the characteristics and current status of hippie style based on a literature review and prior research. Through the analysis of Bode and Story mfg, a new brand that reflects the hippie spirit, the design expression methods and characteristics of modern hippie style were derived, and based on the analysis, the design of the 3D CLO virtual outfit was developed. The results of the study are as follows. First, in addition to the use of eco-friendly materials, the digital technology of the CLO 3D program was applied to the design development process, which made it possible to increase sustainability from the production process. Second, by creating a retro design centered on a striped pattern expressing freedom, revolution, and equality, and a handcrafted design based on a tie-dye pattern, the design was able to express the hippie spirit of loving nature, and through this, a new direction of eco-friendly and modern fashion design was presented.

• Journal of Korea Multimedia Society
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1021-1026
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• 2018

3D SCAN enables easy human body measurement via a digital method in the process of film costume production which used to be done manually. Software-oriented computer graphic, which integrates 3D SCAN data in the process of manual film costume production, can induce quick and diverse design outcomes. While, 3D PRINT, which integrates computer graphic data in the process of manual film costume production, can automate the process of special costume production using a digital method. Integration of 3D Scan + Computer Graphic + 3D Print using integrated platforms for tailored costume production as developed in this study allows significant reduction of costume production period and costs. It also allows efficient integration of costume production outcomes in various industries related with OSMU contents in particular. In other words, using it, we can create a new business market that integrates multiple areas of film content, drama content and game content.