• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.1008-1016
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• 2014

This study aims to analyze the changes in the mechanical properties of woven fabrics(cotton, linen, wool, silk, and polyester) by bonding fusible interlinings with varying deniers(10D, 20D, and 30D) for a 3D virtual try-on system(one that a user to try garments through screens using Avatar) developed over the last decade. We experimented with four mechanical properties and thicknesses of twenty-three specimens of interlining bonded fabrics including face fabrics and interlinings by using the KES-FB-AUTO system. The results showed that the tensile property increased(LT and RT increased and WT decreased) as the denier of the interlining increased; however, the change was slight. In contrast, the bending and shear properties increased significantly as the denier of the interlining increased on both the warp and the weft. This showed evidence that the interlining gives the fabrics size stability. The compression property was slight changed as the tensile property varies depending on the fibers and the denier of interlining. As expected, the thickness increased by bonding the interlining as the denier of interlining increased. From these results, we conclude that 3D users need to reflect these changes of woven fabrics by bonding interlinings when they try screen fittings to accurately express the fabric reality of manufactured garment.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.34-42
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• 1991

The effects of electrolyte on dyeing properties of cotton fiber with Congo Red have been studied at 90, 70 and $40^{\circ}C$. Each dyeing carried into an infinite bath with $1\times10^{-4}$ mol/l of Congo Red and with various concentration of electrolytes. The results obtained from this study were as follow; 1. The equilibrium adsorption of dye $(C_\infty)$ values decreased with increasing dyeing temperature, $C_\infty$ values increased in the order KCl>NaCl>LiCl. 2. The values of apparent diffusion coefficients $(D_a)$ increased with increasing dyeing temperature, but $D_a$ values decreased in the order KCl$D_a$ values decreased with increasing electrolyte concentration. 4. Effect of electrolytes decreased with increasing dyeing temperature. 5. The values of standard affinities of dyeing $(-\triangle\mu^{\circ})$, the standard heats of dyeing $(-\triangleH^{\circ})$, and the standard entropies $(-\triangleS^{\circ})$, increased in the order KCl>NaCl>LiCl. 6. Equilibrium adsorption isotherm curve were Freundlich type, and in the Equation y=a.x$^{n}$ , the values of a and n increased in the order KCl>NaCl>LiCl. 7. The value of $-\triangle\mu^{\circ}$, $-\triangleH^{\circ}$, and $-\triangleS^{\circ}$, decreased with increasing electrolyte concentration.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.53-58
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• 2003

The stretch fabrics were made by the use of PTT[Poly(trimethylene terephthalate)] fibers and changes in their physical properties were analysed. Tenacity and elongation of D-1(PTT DTY) yarn were 3.32 g/d and 50.4%, respectively, while these of D-2(PTT+CDP DTY) yarn were 2.46 g/d and 32.1%, respectively. The tenacity of PTT-1 and PET-1 fabrics was similar, but the elongation of PTT-1 and PET-1 fabrics was 75% and 44%, respectively. Thus, the elongation of PTT-1 fabric was two times higher than those of PET-1 fabric. In addition, the elastic recovery at 20% elongation of PTT-1, PTT-2 and PET-1 fabric was 85.0%, 80.5% and 60.0%, respectively, indicating that so PTT-1 fabric showed better elastic recovery. The light, wash, and abrasion fastness of PTT-1 and PTT-2 fabrics were above Grade 3, Grade 4-5, and Grade 4-5, respectively. Therefore, there was little effect of substance on the fastness.

• Bulletin of the Korean Chemical Society
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• 제34권11호
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• pp.3211-3217
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• 2013

Density functional theory (DFT) and time-dependent DFT (TD-DFT) calculations have been employed to investigate the molecular structures and absorption spectra of three D-${\pi}$-A-type organic dyes (C1-1, D5 and TH208) containing identical ${\pi}$-spacers and electron acceptors, but different aromatic amine electron-donating groups (tetrahydroquinoline, triphenylamine and phenothiazine). The coplanar geometries indicate that the strong conjugation is formed in the dyes. The electronic structures suggest that the intramolecular charge transfer from the donor to the acceptor occurs, and the electron-donating ability of tetrahydroquinoline is stronger than those of triphenylamine and phenothiazine. The computed orbital energy levels of these dyes confirm that the electrons could be injected from the excited dyes to the semiconductor conduction band and the oxidized dyes could be reduced effectively by electrolyte. The TD-DFT results show that the CAM-B3LYP/6-31+G(d, p) is suitable for calculating the absorption spectra. The first absorption band for these dyes is assigned to the HOMO${\rightarrow}$LUMO and HOMO-1${\rightarrow}$LUMO transitions.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권2호
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• pp.204-214
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• 2019

A CAD program has recently been introduced that can be directly developed into a three-dimensional human body shape and made into a pattern. It is possible to fabricate a bra that reflects the volume and surface area of the breast; however, it still needs to be verified. This study investigates the average size and shape of 20 big-breasted women and designs a brassiere pattern for women with large breasts using a 3D Flattening function of OptiTex PDS v15.6. In addition, the study verifies the reliability of the proposed method compared to a conventional brassiere pattern. The study results are as follows. First, the three dimensional measurement values were smaller than the direct measurement dimensions when the three dimension measurement dimensions of the subjects were compared with the direct measurement dimensions, the replica measurement dimensions and the three dimensional measurement dimensions. Second, the 3D flattening pattern reflects the actual shape, length, and area of the actual breast when comparing a brassiere pattern using a 3D shape and pattern reflecting the direct measurement.

• 대한지리학회지
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• 제38권
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• pp.37-59
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• 1988

The aim of this study is to investigate the influence of the technological changes on locational changes on the assumption that technological changes cover over all industrial sectors. The study is carred on 1) To investigate the theoretical backgrounds of the technological and locational changes and their problems. 2) To investigate the location and economic characteristics of the Korean textile industry. 3) To investigate the technological development and regional variations in technological level. 4) To the relationship of the technological change to the location of the textile industries. The locational change of the Korean textile industries have been closely related to economic characteristics. In the begining stage of development in the 1950's, thetextile industries were largely concentrated in the major cities(Seoul, Pusan, Taegu, Masan et. al.). In the growing stage of development in the 1960's, the textile industries were relocated in suburban areas with the trend of large corporations building their branch plants of chemical fibers in the suburbs. With the expansion in the export industry in the 1970's, the textile companies were distributed throughout the whole country. But the research and development(R&D) activities caused the textile industries reconcentrate around Seoul and Pusan, owining to the change of the economic environments in the 1980's. The 1980's have witnessed the increased R&D investment for the development of better new and value-added products. This was because the technological level was much higher than that of Taegu and Other regions. What is more, plant birth location and branch plant location support that locational changes of textile industry were caused by technological changes. Plant birth location put stress technological environments of region, compared with branch plant locaiton. Accordingly, the technological changes of industry can be an important factor in locational changes. Through this study, it can be seen that locational changes come from technological changes. Other locational factors influence the industrial locations, but regional variations in technological level which has been relatively ignored has to be considered on the location study. Together with the accomplishments of existing location study, the study on technological change and location can better explain the location phenomena. And further research on technological change and location can provide better policy implications for regional development.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권5호
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• pp.881-891
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• 2021

This study proposes a simple drape measurement method for the 3D virtualization of garments. The proposed method uses angles or disks of different diameters to evaluate the drape properties easily. We divided 710 fabrics into ten groups based on the drape coefficient, of which 49.6% had drape coefficients of 30 or less. The drape properties were measured to classify the groups into smaller clusters using the angle formed when the center of the fabric was fixed. Accordingly, three clusters were formed for 60° and 100° angles. A method was devised using ten disks of different diameters to classify the remaining two clusters, except the cluster containing only the D10 group (D1-D5 and D5-D9). Three criteria-grade match, a sum of deviation, and standardization of deviation-were used for the classifications. The discriminative ability between groups was high for D1-D5 with disks with 24.0 and 25.5 cm diameters. Furthermore, a disk with a diameter of 16.5 cm was effective for D5-D9. The three-dimensional drape shapes were unique for the ten groups, which can be utilized as fundamental data for 3D virtualization.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.1-9
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• 1991

In order to improve the shrink resistance of wool, the fabric was treated with D.C.C.A.(Di-chloro Isocyanuric Acid) and Hercosett. The results obtained as follows, 1. The optimum condition for the shrink resistance of wool fabric was Hercosett concentration of about 2.0~2.5%(o.w.f), pH of 7, the curing temperature of about $140^{\circ}C$, and curing time of 3 minutes. 2. The physical properties with the experimental conditions, such as the tensile strength, bending strengh, crease recovery, tearing strengh were confirmed by measurements.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.595-606
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• 2020

This study develops an optimal two-dimensional (2D) pattern from three-dimensional human scan data by considering the cycling posture and dermatome of high school male cyclists. By analyzing the body surface change in the cycling posture and considering the dermatome of the lower limbs, the optimal cutting line setting and the development of cycling tights for individual cyclists were presented to provide data that could be used in the clothing industry. We designed three cycling tights to solve the size unsuitability. 3D design 1 is a non-extension design based on the analysis of the 3D human body scan data, in which parts were connected diagonally from the front of the knee to the back of the knee. 3D design 2 removed both the front and back to reduce air resistance during cycling. 3D design 3 did not have a cutting line on the front panel because of the air resistance during cycling in the front area. We analyzed the garment pressure for 8 points of lower body and performed a subjective evaluation of the 3D designed tights and the current cycling tights. The 3D design 1 in this study was well received in the omphalion, thigh, and hip area, while 3D design 3 was well received in the omphalion, thigh, hip, and bottom bands. Therefore, the LoNE of 3D design 1 was applied to the front, and the hip cutting line of 3D design 3 was applied to the back.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.77-88
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• 2019

One way of appling 3D printing to garments is through the combination of 3D polymer filaments in textile fabrics. it is essential to understand the interface between the polymer and the 3D composite fabric in order to enhance the adhesion strength between the polymers and the peeling strength between the fabric and the polymer. In this study, the adhesion of composite printed specimens using a combination of fabric and polymers for 3D printing was investigated, and also the change in adhesion was investigated after the composite fabric printed with polymers was subjected to constant pressure. Through this process, the aims to help develop and utilize 3D printing textures by providing basic data to enhance durability of 3D printing composite fabrics. The measure of the peeling strength of the composite fabric prepared by printing on a fabric using PLA, TPU, Nylon polymer was obtained as follows; TPU polymer for 3D printing showed significantly higher peel strength than polymers of composite fabric using PLA and Nylon polymer. In the case of TPU polymer, the adhesive was crosslinked because of the reaction between polyurethane and water on the surface of the fabric, thus increasing the adhesion. It could be observed that the adhesion between the polymer and the fiber is determined more by the mechanical effect rather than by its chemical composition. To achieve efficient bonding of the fibers, it is possible to modify the fiber surface mechanically and chemically, and consider the deposition process in terms of temperature, pressure and build density.