• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.282-291
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• 2010

Digital textile printing(DTP) is becoming more important because the production trend of textile printing goods is adapting to small-lot multiple items. Recently enhanced use of DTP is closely connected with production of high value-added products in fashion industry, which is also appropriate for quick response system(QRS). Quality of DTP depends on pre-treatment, after-treatment, ink, media, printer, etc. One of these parameters, Selection of good media is very important to obtain high quality of DTP products. Especially, the effects of media on printing quality of DTP according to yarn twist and structure of knitting fabric were examined in this study. Two types of yarn twist of 830 t.p.m and 1630 t.p.m for cotton knit were used and five types of media structures were knitted with single circular knitting machine. First, MIU, MMD, SMD's values are closely related with surface roughness of sample as well as printing quality. The hard twist samples were higher values than normal twist samples in the same media structure. In case of SMD, the values increased from plain to corduroy types. Second, aspect of line sharpness, line area, and line width values of hard twist samples decreased from plain to corduroy than those of normal twist samples. Third, line deviation values of hard twist samples, blurriness of line, also decreased than those of normal twist samples.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.87-93
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• 2020

This study provide basic data to develop a dress form reflecting body shape characteristics by age and to produce a 3D body form in a virtual fitting program. A comparative analysis was conducted on the size, section shape, and slope of side shape of the modeling form by the sizing of the basic female avatar in CLO 3D, one of the 3D apparel CAD programs and the body form of women in their 20s-50s by body shape in the 6th Size Korea (2010). First, all the differences were formed similarly in the direct measurements between the 3D avatar and the body form were within 1 mm. Second, in a comparison of the section form of the avatar and body form in Size Korea, the avatar was formed in straight body shape and did not reflect a spinal curvature according to age. As a result of an examination of the items with a difference over 5° in the slope of side shape, there were angle differences in numerous body shapes in the angles of the side upper abdomen, side upper back, and side upper bust, and the avatar's bust shape was expressed more flatly compared to body form. It will be possible to produce an avatar that can adequately reflect body shape characteristics by adding detailed length and angle items by the region like waist back length and front length in producing the avatar reflecting body shape characteristics, instead of a standard body shape.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.834-843
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• 2020

This study develops 1/2 dress forms for draping. This study investigated the production status of domestic and foreign products in order to model their shape using CLO 3D. In addition, it developed torso-type and torso-crotch-type products that allowed for draping using a 3D printer. This study analyzed shape and size compared to developed ones after referring to the Size Korea 7th Survey data as well as seven domestic and foreign company websites. The results are follows. First, an investigation of the production status of the products for the size of most of the domestic ones (except K-4) indicated that the waist circumference was slimmer than Size Korea. Bust, waist, and hip circumferences ranged from 42.0 cm, 32.0 cm, and 45.0 cm - 49.0 cm, respectively, in Chinese products; 42.0 cm - 43.0 cm, 30.5 cm - 31.5 cm, and 46.0 cm - 46.5 cm in Japanese products; 43.0 cm, 35.0cm, and 46.5 cm in American products (Japanese body shape applied). Second, an avatar was produced on a 3D software with the average size of 20-24year-old women, and its file modified as a dress form for 3D printing with PLA filament to produce dress forms for draping, workable with pins, using quilting cotton and cotton cloth. Third, the comparisons of the form and flattening between the developed dress forms and the selling ones indicated that flattening was bigger in the waist part of the former than the latter. The waist is produced too slim in the existing dress forms; therefore, it is necessary to correct the waist circumference. Unlike existing dress forms, the developed ones were produced in proximity to the average size of 20-24 year-old women in the Size Korea 7th Survey.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.325-331
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• 2010

The alkaline dissolution behavior of sea-island type ultrafine nylon fiber were dependent on the concentration of NaOH and treatment time, and the most appropriate condition for alkaline dissolution was to treat with 20g/l NaOH for 30 min at $80^{\circ}C$. The dyeing properties of sea-island type ultrafine nylon fiber and regular nylon fiber were examined with 3 different types of acid dyes in this study. The dye uptakes of ultrafine nylon fiber were higher than regular nylon fiber because of large surface area per unit mass, which increased as the dye bath pH decreased. The dyeing rates on ultrafine nylon fiber were faster and dye exhaustions were higher than regular nylon fiber, however color strength and rating of wash fastness were lower. It was also found that levelling type acid dye showed fast dyeing rate on both nylon fibers than metal-complex and milling type acid dyes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.277-285
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• 2012

This research studied how to develop tight upper sportswear from 3D scan data considering fabric stretch property. Subjects were five Korean men of average figure in their 20's. Scanning was done for ten postures via vitus smart/pro(Techmath LTD). Analyzing from 3D scan data, more than 70% of the upper body surface showed surface change rate under 20%. It was shoulder and under arm side part that showed most noticeable body surface change when moving. A parametric model with convex surface was generated and flattened onto the plane, resulting 2D pattern. The error rate occurring in the process of 3D to 2D conversion was 0.2% for outline and 0.13% for area, respectively. Thirteen kinds of stretchable fabrics in the market were collected for this study. Stretch property was in the range of 16.0~58.2% for wale direction; 23.1~78.4% for course. Based on wear trial test, four fabrics were chosen for making the 1st experimental garment and finally one fabric was chosen for the 2nd one, which was developed applying 4 kinds of crosswise reduction rate on 2D pattern: 0, 5, 10, and 15%. Through wear trial test and garment pressure measurement, experimental garment applied with 10% pattern reduction rate was evaluated as most comfortable and considerable.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.220-230
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• 2019

The Fourth Industrial Revolution has increased studies on observing the cross section by overlapping the clothing worn using 3D human body data. However, there is a lack of studies on the effect of pressure clothing that contracts the shape of the human body. Therefore, this study objectively evaluated the shaping functionality of body shapers using 3D scan and 3D data. Two types of commercial body shapers were selected for this study. The nude body and body wearing body shapers were then scanned. A 3D program evaluated the shaping functionality by overlapping the nude state with the body wearing body shaper A and B respectively. As a result, it was found that the effect of body shapers could be adequately observed according to body parts. The smaller body shaper was shown to have superior shaping capability with the abdomen more affected. Analysis of the horizontal cross section indicated that the waist circumference decreased by 6 cm when wearing body shaper A and decreased by 12cm when wearing body shaper B. The volume of the waist part decreased by 8.6% when wearing body shaper A and by 20.4% when wearing body shaper B. Therefore, it is more effective to compare the objective shaping functionality by body parts using the overlapped 3D scanned data rather than using exterior evaluation or length measurement when wearing clothing that contracts the body shape.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.480-487
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• 2019

This study used 3D technology to develop a multi-functional sports brassiere with increased comfort and fit that can be worn as a base layer during exercise or as underwear. A 75A size industrial lingerie figure was used to develop a standard pattern. 3D tools for scanning and pattern making, such as Vivid 910, Geomagic Design X, 2C-AN and Yuka CAD were used. The sports brassiere was designed as a tank top style with dual structure and linings attached to a pad utilized with a sport brassiere mold cup. 3D outer and lining's pattern was differently developed in consideration of the body's curvature with pad's shape and structure. Shoulder and neck part reduction rates were adjusted to increase the neck areas fit that considered the nude pattern's structure due to uncomfortableness felt by wearers who were uncomfortable with the neck areas fit on existing brand products. The reduction rate was also set differently on each part. For example, the reduction rate on outer side panel was set strongly to increase the breast's volume. Two products, developed by a 3D sports brassiere and previously released product, were worn on 8 subjects in their 20's to evaluate fit, comfort, and purchase preferences. The evaluation proved that newly developed 3D products were superior to comparative products. The results of the clothing pressure measurement indicate that the newly developed sports brassiere's front part had less pressure on upper bust and shoulder areas compared to comparative products as well as showed less pressure on the back side, which shows improved wearing comfort compared to comparative products.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.790-798
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• 2021

With digital technology innovation, increased data access and mobile network use by consumers, products and services are changing toward pursuing differentiated values for personalization, and personalized markets are rapidly emerging in the fashion industry. This study aims to identify trends in digital customized automation technology by deriving types of digital customizing and analyzing cases by type, and to present directions for the development of digital customizing processes and the use of technology in the future. As a research method, a literature study for a theoretical background, a case study for classification and analysis of types was conducted. The results of the study are as follows. The types of digital customizing can be classified into three types: 'cooperative customization', 'selective composition and combination', 'transparent suggestion', and automation technologies shown in each type include 3D printing, 3D virtual clothing, robot mannequin, human automatic measurement program, AR-based fitting service, big data, and AI-based curation function. With the development of digital automation technology, the fashion industry environment is also changing from existing manufacturing-oriented to consumer-oriented, and the production process is rapidly changing with IT and artificial intelligence-based automation technology. The results of this study hope that digital customized automation technology will meet various needs of personalization and customization and present the future direction of digital fashion technology, where fashion brands will expand based on the spread of digital technology.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.796-811
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• 2010

Research materials of Korean traditional shoes have so far been mainly literary explanations or plane pictures expressed on the basis of the explanations and photographs of incomplete forms of relics excavated and it makes us have difficulty in observing them visually and producing products with them by design application. This project is to establish database of literal data of Korean traditional shoes and visual data using 3D in order to make the foundation of developing culture industry contents using Korean traditional shoes. According to the initial research plan. first. it analyzed and arranged the Korean traditional shoes into period. sex and function as the research goals of the first year. categorized the form. composition. materials. patterns. and colors of traditional shoes and then database of the materials was performed with text. Second. visual image materials including forms. composition. materials. patterns. and colors of traditional shoes were established as database with scanner. digital camera and computer 2D. Results of such a database will be able to be used as important materials which can be the foundation of culture industry contents development of traditional shoes and be the materials for developing digital culture contents of traditional shoes and teaching Korean traditional culture.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.247-260
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• 2021

While it is an important element of clothing construction, research has so far been very limited on the similarities between virtual and real clothing in terms of the type of neckline. The purpose of this study is to verify the similarity, accuracy of virtualization, and actuality of neckline, which all play an important role in individual impressions and image formation, and require considerable modification when fitting real samples. A total of 5 neckline models were selected through the analysis of dress composition textbooks. The selected designs were then planned and manufactured in muslin. The specimen clothes were then tested on a female model in her 20s. 2 kinds of virtual bodies were created in order to compare the real and the virtual dressing. The first virtual body was made through an Artec 3D Eva scan of the model, and the other was made by entering the model's measurements in a CLO 3D program. A visual image of the front, side, and back image of both the real and virtual dressing were subsequently collected. The collected images were then evaluated by 20 professional fashion workers who checked the similarity between the real and the virtual versions. The current study found that the similarity between the actual and virtual wearing of the five neckline designs with reality appeared higher with the virtual wearing image using the 3D-scanned body. The results of this study could provide further information on the selection of appropriate avatars to clothing companies that check the fit of clothing by utilizing 3D virtualized programs.