• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.401-412
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• 2008

Simulations of three-dimensional numerical wave tank are performed to investigate wave force acting on a large cylindrical structure and consequent wave deformation, which are induced by bore after breaking waves. The numerical model is based on the three-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations with a finite-difference method combined with a volume of fluid(VOF) method, which is capable of tracking the complex free surface, including wave breaking. In order to promote wave breaking of the incident wave, the approach slope was built seaward of the structure with a constant slope and a large cylindrical structure was installed on a flat bed. The incident waves were broken on the approach slope or flat bed by its wave height. In the present study, all waves acting on the large cylindrical structure were limited to breaking bore after wave breaking. The effects of the position of the structure and the incident wave height on the wave force and wave transformations were mainly investigated with the concern of wave breaking. Further, the relations between the variation of wave energy by wave propagation after wave breaking and wave force acting on the structure were discussed to give the understanding of the full-linear wave-structure interactions in three-dimensional wave fields.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.333-341
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• 2008

A remote sensing technique to identify trajectories of breaking waves in the surf zone using oblique digital nearshore videos is proposed. The noise arising from white foam induced by wave breaking has hindered accurate remote sensing of wave properties in the surf zone. For this reason, this paper focuses on image processing to remove the noise and wave trajectory identification essential for wave property estimation. The nearshore video imagery sampled at 3 Hz are used, covering length scale(100 m). Original image sequences are processed through image frame differencing and directional low-pass image filtering to remove the noise characterized by high frequencies in the video imagery. The extraction of individual wave crest features is conducted using a Radon transform-based line detection algorithm in the processed cross-shore image timestacks having a two-dimensional space-time domain. The number of valid wave crest trajectories identified corresponds to about 2/3 of waves recorded by the in-situ sensors.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.157-163
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• 1994

An experimental study of deep-water breaking waves is performed by nonlinear wave evolution as well as superposition of different wave frequencies. Two-dimensional and three-dimensional wave instabilities and breakings are observed in nonlinear wave evolution. The wave energy evolves with almost the same initial wave energy before breaking but decreases significantly after breaking process. Large spilling and plunging waves are generated near e expected breaking location by means of faster waves overtaking slow waves at a certain point. More energy loss in vigorous plunging breakers is observed through breaking process.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.62-73
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• 1996

Numerical simulation is made of the three-dimensional wave breaking motion about a part of a floating offshore structure containing a circular cylinder mounted vertically onto a lower hull in regular periodic gravity wave generated by a numerical wave maker. TUMMAC-VIII finite-difference method is newly developed for such a problem. By use of density-function technique the three-dimensional wave breaking motion is approximately implenented in the framework of rectangular grid system. A porosity technique is devised for the implementation of the no-slip bydy boundary conditions. The generation of breaking waves by the interaction of incident waves with the structure is well simulated and interesting features of breaking waves are revealed with containing degree of quantitative and qualitative accuracy.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.383-389
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• 2006

In three dimensional wave field, a direct numerical simulation model, which is able to handle free-fall and slope-fall of a waterdrop due to overtopping, is proposed to evaluate the overtopping rate on the coastal structures like an absorbing revetment. A comparison between the numerical model and existing experimental results for overtopping rate was made to validate the proposed numerical model's accuracy, and showed fairly good agreement between them. It is confirmed in numerical and hydraulic(existing) model test that the overtopping quantity on a absorbing revetment becomes larger with an increase in Ursell number. Also, the overtopping rate estimated by 3-D numerical model is compared with it obtained by 2-D numerical model.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.606-613
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• 2007

This study investigates the behavior of a plunging wave and its associated runup and overtopping through velocity measurements and suggests an empirical formula for overtopping velocities on a structure. The plunging wave breaking in front of the structure generates very bubbly flow fields. For measurements of the two phase flow field of the breaking wave, particle image velocimetry and a modified optical method were employed. The obtained velocity fields were discussed in respect of the process of wave impinging, runup and overtopping. The overtopping velocity distribution is found to have a nonlinear profile showing a maximum magnitude at its front part. The relationship of self-similarity among dimensionless parameters is observed and used to obtain the regression formula to depict the overtopping velocity.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2016.05a
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• pp.468-468
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• 2016

3차원 동수역학 모델을 이용하여 연안 순환에서 발생하는 이안류의 연직 분포를 조사하였다. 이안류 흐름은 변수심 위에서 발생하는 파의 쇄파와 모멘텀 전달에 의해 발생하는 외해방향의 흐름을 의미하는 것으로 해안의 보전, 유지 및 개발 측면에서 매우 중요한 역할을 한다. 지난 수십년동안 이안류와 관련된 현상을 해석하기 위해 많은 연구들이 수행되어 왔다. 하지만 대부분의 연구들은 수심적분된 2차원 모델을 사용하거나 위상 평균된 3차원 모델을 사용하여 이안류 흐름이 발생할 시 유속의 3차원 분포나 각 종 물리량의 시간적인 변화 등을 모의하기 어려웠다. 본 연구에서는 3차원 동수역학 모델 NHWAVE (Non-Hydrostatic WAVE model)을 이용하여 이안류의 연직분포를 조사하였다. 이안류를 발생시키기 위하여 이상적인 이안류 지형을 만들었으며 여러 지점에서 연직분포를 측정하여 수심적분된 Boussinesq 모델과 비교하여 특성을 파악하였다. 수치모의 수행결과, 두 모델 모두 이안류 현상을 잘 재현하였으나 Boussinesq 모델은 수평유속의 연직방향 변화를 잘 재현하지는 못하였다. 또한, 파고가 상대적으로 큰 경우에는 3차원 모델에서는 작은 순환류가 외해 영역에서 발생하였으나 Boussinesq 모델에서는 관측하지 못하였다.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.50-61
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• 1996

The breaking phenomenon of regular periodic waves generated by a numerical wave maker is simulated by finite-difference method which can cope with strong interface motions. The air and water flows are simultaneously solved in the time-marching solution procedure for the Navier-Stokes equation. A density-function technique is devised for the implemenation of the interface conditions. The accuracy is examined and applied to the simulation of two-dimensional breaking phenomena of periodic gravity waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.459-471
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• 1994

A numerical scheme solving the quasi-3D wave-induced circulation is presented. The governing equations have been solve implicitly using a fractional step method in conjunction with the approximate factroization techniques. The equation of each step was discretized by the finite volume scheme which yields more accurate and conservative approximations than the schemes based on finite differences. Examples of computed nearshore current patterns are presented to demonstrate the validity of the model for typical situations through comparison with laboratory experimental data (Gourlay. 1974).

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.193-201
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• 1993

Experimental investigation of nonlinear instability of deep-water wave train is performed. Two-dimensional Benjamin-Feir type wave instability and breaking are observed at wave steepness between 0.19 and 0.25 and three-dimensional instability and breaking at wave steepness greater than or equal to 0.31. At the same wave steepness, shorter waves with smaller amplitude are more unstable, with earlier occurrence of breaking, than long waves with large amplitude.