• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.73-84
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• 2022

This study aims to present the direction of research for rational clothing design and production and improve the productivity of the fashion industry by analyzing the most recent 11 years (from 2010 to 2021) with regard to the clothing construction field. Analyzing the research trends in the field of clothing construction, which is deeply related to clothing production, will suggest the direction of research for clothing design and production. To analyze the current status of research in the field of clothing construction, research trends were analyzed, focusing on 525 research journal articles from six Korean clothing-related journals with terms related to torso and upper and lower limbs. The analysis results of this study are as follows. First, the rapid development of IT technology requires changes and innovations in all processes of clothing construction, including body shape analysis and pattern design. Therefore, it is believed that both body shape and pattern research should be continuously conducted to produce clothes with an excellent silhouette and fit depending on the body shape through studies, such as developing 3D patterns and converting 3D body figures into 2D patterns, among others. Second, since body shape studies are concentrated on young, middle-aged, and the elderly, it is believed that various body shape studies should be conducted on infants and elementary, middle, and high school students who have significant changes in body shape due to changes in the living environment. Third, if the content of pattern research is expanded to various items and is widely conducted, it will contribute to the production of clothing that has an excellent fit. Fourth, at a time when aging in society is accelerating, it is believed that research on patterns and clothing systems that can increase the fit of clothing by analyzing the body types of elderly male and female consumers should be actively conducted. Because the analysis was conducted only among six Korean academic journals, there is a limitation in the expanded interpretation of the results derived from this study.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권4호
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• pp.641-650
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• 2008

In this study, seven models with distinctly different body types were researched and explanatory variables were reviewed. Review was done by using body measurements and the measurements of the appropriate bodice patterns in 1D, 2D, and 3D measurement methods in order to review the pattern making system and the equations for calculating the dimensions of the sleeve caps, which are readily available. Data on human bodies, which can be the criteria for each body part required for the new system for making sleeve cap part, were selected considering conditions such as items with a significantly high contribution rate from the results of regression analysis and the easiness of measurement. As a result of research, an explanatory variable required for the system for making sleeve caps with high general use was extracted. All items with the exception of the waist circumference and upper arm circumference were about the measurement of the form of human bodies, which were newly set in this study. As a result of this study, the equations for calculating the dimensions of each part of the sleeve caps showed distinct differences in comparison to the conventional system of construction.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권3호
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• pp.346-359
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• 2012

This study provides basic guidelines to enrich lecture content and teaching methods for university lecturers about basic clothing construction (flat pattern making). The survey was conducted from October $13^{th}$ to December $20^{th}$ 2010 by mail and e-mail on 96 selected clothing departments in Korean universities to investigate the content, method and condition of the course of basic pattern making. A total of 63.3% of survey respondents were PhD graduates, 80 percent majored 'Apparel Science and Technology', average of total teaching experience was 12.84 years and 40 percent had studied abroad. The surveyed universities were 4 year universities (70%), 2-3 year tenure colleges (27%), and Cyber Universities (3%). The average number of students in a class was 28.08 and the lab space and equipment was evaluated positively only when the number of students was 20 or less. The type of measurements for basic pattern drafting were 'individual student's sizes' (62%), 'ready-made clothes sizing system' (25%), 'professor's experiential sizes' (5%), 'dress form sizes' (3%). In addition, the percentage of using 'ready-made clothes sizing system' increased 13% over the previous study (Lee, 2000). At a basic pattern drafting stage, 'the error of body measurements' in the case of using individual student's sizes, 'the poor results of fitting for students who deviate from standard body size' in the case of using ready-made clothes sizing system, 'the lack of education about fitting' in the case of using dress form sizes had been pointed out as shortcomings. A total of 66% of survey respondents carried out muslin fitting; however, a lack of students and teacher feedback about fitting & alteration of paper patterns remained a problem.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.485-491
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze the wearing fitness of middle aged women's jacket with non-Stretchable Fabric and stretchable fabric. We surveyed the size of jackets and process of pattern making with stretchable fabric in companies which produce the clothing mainly for middle aged women. Based upon the result of process of pattern making, two kind of experimental jacket with non-stretchable and stretchable fabric were made. We measured space length between body and garment using 3D scanner and analyzed the clothing pressure 7 parts of body with 3 kinds of arm raising. The result were as follows : 1. Most parts of space length except bust were higher in non-stretchable jacket than in stretchable jacket. 2. Clothing pressure showed greater value with non-stretchable fabric jacket than with stretchable fabric jacket. Clothing pressure in upper arm point areas increased as the angle of the arm raising increased. Therefore, the sleeve width and armhole depth should he considered when the amount of wearing ease were reduced in jacket with stretchable fabric.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제47권2호
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• pp.111-123
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• 2009

This study is to explore the usability of a pattern making software 'Looks tailor X' developed recently by the Digital Fashion in line with the cloth simulation software 'DressingSim'. When the software engineers develop software for clothes and clothing simulations, most often they lose touch of real-world craftsmanship of pattern making. As such, the software evaluation of the functionality and the usability is a crucial step in the field of virtual clothing. We carried out a detailed evaluation of the software via the process of making some basic types of pattern including tight skirts, pants, jackets, and one-piece dress. In this paper, we documented a step-by-step scenarios of making clothes using the Looks tailor X, and listed both the advantages and limitations of the software from the perspective of an enduser, i.e., a professional fashion designer. We also briefed suggestions on the refinement of the future software in the field.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권1호
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• pp.97-113
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• 2016

This study develops pant patterns using body shape, measurement and shell mesh data to decide optimal women's pants according to styles with excellent size, fit and shape for different individuals and silhouettes. Standard landmarks, lines, triangles and structures were set on a 3D scanned lower body shell to represent women in their twenties and flattened as a 2D pattern. Patterns were created and analyzed according to culotte, formal, slacks and tight type considering crotch shape, location of the crotch point, and adjusting waist darts. Flattened patterns were rotated to compare existing methods. The crease lines were then set through the hip protrusion point and compared. The main factor of the pant pattern were extracted, total rise, crotch depth, crotch width, angle of center line, shape of the center line curve, the thigh width, the amount of waist dart, and crease line position. With going tight style from the culotte, the fits are closer to the figure with minimized thigh circumference, the dart amount decreases, the crotch depth increases, the crotch extensions were shorter, and the angle of the center back increased. The total rise is U shape for culotte and is closer to V shape as the silhouette tightens. T-test of appearance evaluation of the developed pant pattern were conducted after analyzing measurements and shapes of each styles. The results of the developed patterns were superior to existing patterns in accordance to hip line between body and pants as well as appearance evaluation. We found systematic mechanisms among pattern factors that create various pant silhouettes. Evidence on classification of the silhouettes of traditional types of pants were explained objectively through the process of playing out 3D forms.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.64-80
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• 2013

A new technology of fashion show is opening the digital era and an imaginary fashion show is now arising as a new form of fashion show which allows one to enjoy a collection through the monitor without holding a real fashion show. Digital fashion show allows designer to create infinite ideas by articulating the designer's concept through not only garments but also other factors. In this research, We will analyze cases which are mixtures of digital technology and fashion show and will suggest a new paradigm of fashion show by producing an imaginary fashion show which cannot be easily articulated in an ordinary real fashion show, articulated by garments created by digital technology and graphic effects. The program used for this study is 'DC Suite 2.0' developed by Physan and Digital Clothing Center of Seoul National University, available for 2D pattern production and 3D simulation. In addition, in order to enhance representation of the visual effects, Maya's Qualoth and V-ray program which could be compatible with 'DC Suite' were used to make 3D digital fashion show.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.1191-1204
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• 2014

Even though a Han-bok, or traditional Korean costume, should be inherited since it is invaluable part of our culture, research on Han-bok is scarce. Since the development of a Jeogori pattern, the upper garment of Korean traditional clothes, is done mostly based on the chest size, the design does not completely consider on wearer's body shape. Moreover, unless made by an expert, trial and error is almost always necessary to improve the fit of the clothes. In this research, a Jeogori pattern was suggested that improves the fit based on the shape of the upper back(straight or bent) of a female in her late 20s who often wears a Han-bok and is comfortable when moving. Using a 3D virtual clothing system, the optimum pattern was selected based on the body shape. The final selection was made, and each subjects tried the garment on to evaluate the comfort when moving, along with its appearance, based on a seven point Likert scale. As a result, for a straight body shape, the optimum ease for the front bust width was 2.5cm, and that for the back bust width was 2.0cm. The optimum center back dart was 1.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 7.6cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 2.0cm. For the bent body shape, the optimum ease for the front and back bust was 2.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 8.4cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 1.5cm. Furthermore, if the Hwajang slope was set at half of the vertical distance between the laterals of the neck and shoulder, a fitted silhouette appeared, which is preferred nowadays. In the appearance evaluation, the final pattern designed in this research received higher scores than the original design(straight; p<.001, bent; p<.05). The results of the evaluation of the comfort when moving also showed higher scores for the final pattern that was designed.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.347-353
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the appropriate surplus of clothing for a suitable basic bodice pattern of Male Sports Athletes by using the 3D virtual twin and virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; 1. By using 3D virtual twin and garment simulation, new bodice pattern considered male sports athletes was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; surplus of chest girth=9, surplus of back length=1, armhole depth=back length/4+13, half back width=chest girth/5+2.5, front chest width=chest girth/5+3. 2. Wearing test by 3D virtual garment simulation system was useful to evaluate wearing outline, surplus of clothes and garment space. Also it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new bodice pattern is appropriate for the male sports athletes. New bodice pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length of chest and waist. Virtual models production through 3D body scan data, pattern draft and virtual garment digital program were applied to prototypic design method so as to enhance the fitness of ready-made garments. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D Virtual Garment Simulation System with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D Pattern Production Program development.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.391-406
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• 1993

The purpose of this study was to utilize of apparel CAD System by the classification of the basic pattern block in pattern making process. Gerber AM-300 CAD System was used for this study. The results form this study were as follows; 1. New shirts block were developed. 2. The sensory test was applied to evaluate the new shirts block for women by comparing it with Japanese Bunka shirts blouse pattern making method. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 20 items on the questionnaire, the 19 items showed significant difference(${\alpha}{\leq}0.01$)between the two, with the new shirts block having higher scores. 3. A basic pattern block was selected by the design sketch. 4. P/D/S were enabled to be constructed directly from a block pattern. The drawing, deletion. duplication, and movement of all points and lines in the pattern might be made freely, and the split, pivot, and movement of the pattern, and the attachment of two patterns were possible. 5. Automatic grading of finished pattern have been developed by creation and modification of grading rules of block pattern.