Three-dimensional body data has been used in many industry fields including the apparel industry. This research used data from a study of the changes in lower body girth measurements from a 3D scan study of 25 female subjects aged 18 to 24 in four postures; a standing posture, a $120^{\circ}$ knee bend posture, a one pace stepping posture, and a sitting posture with a $90^{\circ}$ knee bend. We used the information on the difference between standing and seated measurements to adjust ease values for pants patterns an evaluation of the appearance, and the comfort of the pants. Waist girth in the sitting posture increased 8% compared to a standing posture and the hip girth measurement increased 7%. A basic pants pattern (pants A) with 2.4cm ease at the waist and 2.6cm ease at the hip was developed and a pants pattern (pants B) was developed using the rates of lower body girth change with a 5.7cm ease (8% change) at the waist and 7cm ease (7% change) at the hip. The appearance assessment items of pants A in a standing posture were higher than pants B. On the other hand, most appearance assessment items of pants B in a sitting posture were higher than pants A, especially the ease of pants back waistline and the appearance of the whole back. Comfort assessment items of pants B in both standing and sitting postures were higher than the comfort assessment items for pants A, especially the location of pants waistline, the ease of pants at the waistline, and the ease at the abdomen. In order to find the best level of ease for better appearance and comfort in both standing and sitting postures, 20 pants were constructed with ease values at the waist and hip in increments of 1.1cm in the range between the ease values of pants A and pants B. A fit test was conducted to compare the average appearance and comfort ratings that identified the pants with the best ease values at the waist and hip. The highest total mean was achieved in the pants with a waist ease of 4.6cm and hip ease of 4.8cm.
The purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship between body-types and skirt-patterns by analyzing various fitting conditions of the skirt patterns in relation to the body-types. To achieve this, fitting tests were done on six types of skirt-patterns. The tests included four body-types selected according to the existing classification of the types of under part of the body. Sensory tests were performed on the existing patterns and new drafting method based on the results of the fitting tests. The results of the fitting tests and sensory test are as follows. 1. The existing skirt-patterns were relatively well-fitted except for certain parts in standard somatotype (body-type A). 2. The new drafting method, designed on the basis of the fitting test on the existing patterns, scored high on all of the eighteen items included in the test This signifies the excellence of the new drafting method. 3. In the case of the allocation between the front and the back, which is the difference between the educational patterns and industrial patterns, the best silhouette was achieved when the hip-line and the waist-line were same sized both in the back and in the front. However, in the case of body-type D it was better when there was a 1cm difference between the back and the front. 4. The number of darts that best fits young persons were found to be eight, to keep their side hip-curve smooth. Further, it is desirable to set the center line of the dart as the vertical waist-line. 5. The best length of the darts were determined to be 12.5cm, 11ch in the back, and 11cm, 9.5cm in the front. Adjustments would be made according to the differing body-types in the range of 0.5cm. 6. The lowerness of the back waist-line for the normal was determined at 1.5cm, with some variations in other body-types. 7. The front waist-line was needed to be 1cm lowered in the case of body-type B, whereas, in the case of body-type D, it was needed to be 1cm raised.
This study focusses on the development of a motion-sensing smart leggings prototype with the help of a module that monitors motion using a fiber-type stretch sensor. Additionally, it acquires data on Electrocardiogram (ECG), respiration, and body temperature signals, for the development of smart clothing used in online exercise coaching and customized healthcare systems. The research process was conducted in the following order: 1) Fabrication of a fiber-type elastic strain sensor for motion monitoring, 2) Positioning and attaching the sensor, 3) Pattern development and three-dimensional (3D) design, 4) Prototyping 5) Wearability test, and 6) Expert evaluation. The 3D design method was used to develop an aesthetic design, and for sensing accurate signal acquisition functions, wearability tests, and expert evaluation. As a result, first, the selection or manufacturing of an appropriate sensor for the function is of utmost importance. Second, the selection and attachment method of a location that can maximize the function of the sensor without interfering with any activity should be studied. Third, the signal line selection and connection method should be considered, and fourth, the aesthetic design should be reflected along with functional verification. In addition, the selection of an appropriate material is important, and tests for washability and durability must be made. This study presented a manufacturing method to improve the functionality and design of smart clothing, through the process of developing a prototype of motion-sensing smart leggings.
In global apparel product development, flat is one of the most important key factor for technical design communication. Proportionally correct flats based on correct scaled human body figures are imperative to be successful in the fashion business. In this study the researchers were to develop body templates for flats for Korean women body types using data from 'Size Korea 2004 (5th)', which is a Korean government apparel sizing project to analyze women's body measurements (age range 7-49). We measured 13 height measurements, 6 width measurements, 8 circumference measurements, 6 length measurements, 3 angle measurements and 5 body measurements. A body figure (i.e., schema) for each group was created by Pattern Design Software (PAD) System 4.1. Muscle was added to the schema created by Adobe Illustrator to ensure a better visualization and convenience for industry uses for flats. Developed body figure template of representative type had the largest difference in height level compared to exiting figures. It had a bigger head, lower crotch level, and longer crotch depth and hip length than existing figures.
This study developed a functional dress shirt for adult males that reflected the body surface variation of a human body section by motion. This study conducted a 3D body scan for 8 subjects in their 40's based on the Size Korea 2010 database. Data recorded the proper posture change value and body surface change value to develop functional dress shirts for adult males. We scanned the subjects with a 3D body scanner for five primarily male wearing dress shirts and operating postures, right standing, arms raised to $90^{\circ}$ horizontal forward position, arms raised $90^{\circ}$ to the horizontal position side, lift up the arm $180^{\circ}$, and arm forward $90^{\circ}$ in a bent posture. We analyzed the 3D scan data from those motions to examine change of length using 3D software Rapidform XOS. The results indicated that the body surface sections with contraction were the front and rear shoulder area, armpit and central length as well the width of arms at more than 10%. The increased body section included the body and armpit back length; in addition, the rear arm vibration girth and under arm girth were more than 10%. In order to reflect the size variation of for each motion, the ease amount of the front and rear shoulder length and width needs to be reduced 20% because it affects the shoulder length during the right standing. The results suggest that the ease amount of the shoulder length should be minimal. The ease amount of the back size needs to be 0.5-2cm bigger and set 0.5-1.5cm longer than the dress shirt length side drooping to compensate for the side length shortage of each motion. The sleeve length needs to be 0-0.5cm shorter, and ease amount of the girth of sleeve bottom needs to be reduced 0-0.7cm due to the size variation of arms. However, the girth of the rear arms is suggested to be 0-0.6cm longer in the ease amount to the rear arm girth as the extension is more than 10% over the width and length of each motion.
The purpose of this study was to examine the appropriate surplus of clothing for a jacket bodice pattern of middle-aged obese men by using the 3D virtual twin and virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows ; 1. BMI rate of middle-aged males was 28.13 which was equivalent to mild obesity, whereas WHR(W/H ratio from waist to hips) rate was near 1.00 which was highly dangerous against their obesity. In case of middle-aged obese men, the WHR was significantly higher than the entire middle-aged men's average and the section shape in which their thickness was relatively more than width. 2. As a result of appearances evaluation through virtual garment simulation, the cut-off amount of the side seam and the center back was regulated accordingly. Hereby, the final tolerance range was set up at 21.15 cm at the hips, so that the appearances became better and the bilateral distribution of the cross section and space length was formed symmetrically. Especially in case of increasing the cross amount of hems to produce a natural silhouette of the waist-to-hips parts, the ease of buttocks was judged to be moderate, but it turned out that a wavy cross section was made and the silhouette was not good. Thus it was found to be not good that the ease of the hips became excessively increased in proportion as circumference of waist and belly were increased in obesity. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.
Digital technology introduced into the clothing and fashion industry is evolving to digital virtual fashions and consumer-centered mass-customized production systems. Today the application of such 3D virtual try-on systems is being expanded gradually in the clothing industry. This study purposed to make virtual avatars and virtual garments using OptiTex and V-stitcher virtual software and compared the appearance of the virtual garments put on the virtual avatars. For this, we created virtual avatars and virtual garments using body measurements obtained from jive subjects of top jive body shapes, respectively, using $[TC]^2$ body scanner. According to the results of comparing the outcomes of the two different virtual software systems, virtual avatar II of V-Stitcher tended to have a more round and lifted hip and the waist line at a higher position. In addition, the body curves and shapes of a virtual avatar affect the appearance of virtual garments. This study applied the same body measurements to virtual avatars and the same pattern to virtual garments, but when different kinds of virtual software were used, the virtual avatars and virtual garments showed different appearance and fit. This result may mean that when customers buy apparel products using different kinds of virtual try-on systems, their evaluation of appearance can vary depending on the virtual try-on system. Therefore, research needs to be made actively for the development and use of linkage programs that can reflect actual body measurements between virtual software systems and 3D body scanning systems.
This study aimed to create globally acceptable Hanbok-inspired work uniforms, by developing practical designs and providing useful resources for incorporating Hanbok characteristics into office attire. First, to establish the elements that the Hanbok work uniform should have, the definition and characteristics of service clothes and preferences for the process of modernization of traditional Hanbok were reviewed through a review of the preceding studies. For the Hanbok work uniform design, a total of 4 pieces, 2 for each male and female, were planned, a schematic diagram was created, and the design was modified after evaluation by fashion design experts. I made a pattern of the modified design with a CAD program, imported it into CLO 3D to produce a virtual costume, and confirmed the final design draft. Work uniform design has symbolism, functionality, and aesthetics as its characteristics. The functionality of the Hanbok work uniform designed in this study is suitable for the season, and it was designed to increase the efficiency of work when worn for a long time. The design was focused on the development of materials and patterns in consideration of comfort and activity. The esthetic nature of hanbok-inspired work clothes was intended to reveal details that could highlight the silhouette of the human body and reflect the beauty of hanbok.
This study analyzed the body shape of the body of 17~19 years old female students using the SPSS 20.0 statistical program according to the 7th Korea Human Body Survey. Factor analysis was based on six factors including body size, body height, shoulder length, and width, upper body length, hip length, and shoulder inclination related factors. Through this cluster analysis, the body shape of late adolescent female student was classified into four types. Body type 1 was the highest body height factor, and the upper body length and the hip length factor were lower. It was analyzed as 'Long leg in the body'. Body type 2 is the 'narrow shoulder skinny type' with high hip and shoulder slope factors and low body size, body height, shoulder length, and width factor. Body type 3 showed body size, shoulder length, height and hip length factor, and body height factor was rather low 'low hip obese body shape'. Body type 4 was analyzed as 'lower shoulder long upper body type' with higher upper body length factor and lower body size and shoulder slope factor. It is thought that when the pattern is made, it is possible to produce excellent patterns by fitting the dimensions of the body, as well as the dimensions of the shoulder width, the slope, and the hip length.
The purpose of this study was to analyze the proportion of gathered skirts using a three-dimensional measurement system. And in this experiment, we have attempted to accumulate three-dimensional data of wearing model and find out adequate methods for analyzing shape of clothes. The experimental design consists of two factorial designs. We established three different kinds of fabrics, ratio of gathers. The measurement tool for three-dimensional model was whole body 3D scanner(Exima-WBS2H). Analysis program used in experiment is RapidForm 2004 PP1 and Pattern Design 2000. Data analysis utilizes SPSS WIN 10.0 Package. As the results show, there were different effect of gather and proportion of shapes among the measurements of width, thickness and areas made by different lines of vision in cross-sectional silhouette. And there were difference shapes of section area at each part of gathered skirts between vertical-outline silhouette and vortical-plane silhouette made by gathering conditions. And also the cross-sectional silhouettes and vertical silhouettes were related to shape of clothes.
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