• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.11
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• pp.1824-1835
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• 2010

This study develops tight-fitting torso patterns for performance garments by taking into account the skin deformation generated directly from a 3D scan during arm movements. The skin deformation caused during the arm movements was scanned after scanning the skin surface stamped with a circle. To create a torso pattern in response to skin deformation, the ratio and direction of the skin deformation were first measured and analyzed so that the 3D human body could be segmented. After translating, the 3D skin surface was segmented into 2D flat patterns, designing nude patterns and reducing them as well as tight-fitting shirts: the skin deformation segment shirts were made in response to the skin deformation. The features of the fabric deformation and the garment pressure were analyzed and evaluated. In comparison with a clothing construction segment shirt, the diameter of the skin deformation segment shirt was smaller as well the ratios of extension and reduction was less. The garment pressure of the skin deformation segment shirt was higher. The skin deformation segment shirt fitted more tightly compared to a clothing construction segment shirt as it covered the body more thoroughly and was as comfortable as the other shirts with less fabric deformation made as the body moved.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.3_4
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• pp.390-401
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• 2002

This study was to evaluate the fitness and the suitability of size specification of the ready made jacket for women by analysing pattern size and space between skin and clothing using 3D scanner. The results were as follows: 1. Pattern B had the lowest score and the feeling of wearing was significantly different among the given patterns even though all jacket size specification were the same. 2. Ease amount was different between each brand even though the jacket size specification was the same due to the different pattern grading rules. And increasing grading amounts were bigger in horizontal direction rather than in vertical direction. 3. We could obtain accurate a 3 dimensional figure, using 3D scanner which was very useful and more accurate than 2 dimensional data using photography method. 4. Analyzing the average space between skin and clothing of each pattern, there was no significant difference in the average space between skin and clothing among all patterns except waist part of B88 size. And analyzing the average space between skin and clothing of each measured body parts by each size, there existed a significant difference in the interscye, abdomen and hip parts.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.131-146
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to implement the textile design applying the floral pattern shown in Korean traditional fabrics and the New-Hanbok Chulic Dress in 3D through a virtual fitting system. As a research method, first, we analyzed the floral pattern types of fabrics in the literature related to traditional Korean textiles. Second, we developed textile designs of traditional flower motifs using 13 extracted flower types. Third, we applied the floral textile designs to the 3D original form of new-Hanbok Dress produced based on design preference survey results. The findings derived through this study are as follows. First, among Korean traditional patterns, the type of flowers used in textiles were blossom of chrysanthemum, orchid, camellia, apricot, peony, peach, pomegranate, hydrangea, narcissus, lotus, plum, chinese rose, and rosa rugosa. Second, this study found that the value of traditional culture can be further increased by using traditional flower patterns as an infinite source of creative design. Third, it was confirmed that the new-Hanbok can be developed endlessly as a clothing design that combines various morphological modifications and patterns without departing from traditional designs. In the future, if the research on costume design using various items of traditional clothing and the development of textile designs based on traditional culture continues, the development of new clothes design that leads to the development of Korean traditional clothing culture and meets the sensibilities of modern people will be endless.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.109-121
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• 2012

This study aims at developing ergonomics patterns for the sleeve of structural firefighting protective clothing through 3D motion analysis in order to ensure efficiency and safety of firefighters who are exposed to harmful environment at work. A new research pattern was developed by applying the total results of 3D motion analysis, changes of body surface length measurements, and 2D data on 3D body shape analysis on the size 3 patterns of the existing coat sleeve. For the sleeves, we used the body surface length of the range of shoulder's flexion and the joint angle of the range of wrist's ulnar deviation. And for the production of structural firefighting protective clothing using the research pattern, we recruited a recognized producer of structural firefighting protective clothing designated by KFI. Unlike everyday clothes, structural firefighting protective clothing should be able to fully protect the wearers from the harmful environment that threatens their lives and should not cause any restrictions on their movement. Therefore, the focus of research and development of such protective clothing should be placed on consistent development of new technologies and production methods that will provide protection and comfort for the wearer rather than production cost reduction or operational efficiency. This study is meaningful as it applied 3D motion analysis instead of the existing methods to develop the patterns. In particular, since 3D motion analysis enables the measurement of the range of motion, there should be continuous research on the development of ergonomics patterns that consider workers' range of motion.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.107-120
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• 2023

The purpose of this study was to analyze the patterns of D level protective clothing, improve their ease of movement by modifying the patterns, and validate the effectiveness of the improvements through 3D virtual fitting and subjective wearing evaluations. Based on previous studies that identified numerous complaints, the patterns of the neck, armpit, and waist areas were modified, resulting in the development of new patterns. To compare and analyze the improved protective clothing with the basic protective clothing, stress and strain were examined after 3D virtual fitting. Additionally, to assess the clothing's allowance, the overall distance between the avatar and the protective clothing, as well as the sectional circumference length and distance of each avatar body part, were measured. Furthermore, the improved protective clothing was manufactured, and a subjective wearing evaluation was conducted with ten males in their twenties as participants. The results showed that the improved protective clothing had evenly distributed stress, larger sectional circumference, and lower average cavity distance. The subjective wearing evaluation also revealed that the suit with improved patterns exhibited superior size suitability, reduced pulling sensation in different body parts, and increased ease of movement. In conclusion, this study confirmed that even minimal pattern modifications can enhance the functionality of protective clothing, alleviating discomfort for wearers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.5
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• pp.839-852
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• 2023

This study examined personal protective clothing, specifically the D (M, L, XL) and C (L, XL, 2XL) levels with high sales rates. The goal was to collect essential data for developing Korean personal protective clothing. There were eight and twelve patterns for the D-level and C-level, respectively. While the pattern dimensions were similar, the chest and waist circumferences (relaxed) were larger in the C-level, and the waist (extended), hip, upper arm circumference, and total lengths were larger in the D-level. The D-level wear sensation worked well for average-sized Koreans in their twenties, but the C-level caused discomfort in multiple areas, such as the face, arms, armpits, hips, crotch, thighs, and knee during movement. Consequently, this region required pattern adjustments and resetting for improved comfort. The grading rules were 10 cm in the chest, waist, and hip circumference, regardless of the level, with slight differences in other parts depending on the levels. Thus, manufacturers should establish new grading rules to suit the Korean body shape.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.71-89
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to design posture braces for rounded shoulders by examining characteristics of incorrect postures of rounded shoulders. The review of information in literature on rounded shoulder postures, correction exercise methods, and posture correction devices, has prompted this study to determine the design and material of a proper posture brace for rounded shoulders. In order to develop the pattern of a posture brace for rounded shoulders for women, the study carried out a comfort evaluation of the braces based on the 2D patterns through drafting method by utilizing the body measurements and relational formulae associated with the major body measurement such as bust circumference and on the 3D patterns of the brace which were obtained from 3D human model of women in their early 20s in Korea. Differences in angles were noted when 2D and 3D patterns of shoulder posture braces were compared. The side neck point was relocated farther outside in the 3D pattern to allow additional flexibility in the back-neck area, and the shoulder band was lowered by 14.8°, increasing armhole area comfort. The upper hemline of the front panel was found to rotate upward at an angle of 22.0° as the underarm point of the 3D pattern moved upwards than the underarm point of the 2D pattern, which enhanced comfort in the abdomen area. The 3D designs of shoulder posture brace was preferred in this study, as they significantly improved comfort while conducting fit evaluation compared to the 2D patterns of shoulder posture brace.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.53-61
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• 2011

We have made knitwear in a different way from the typical woven pattern; it does not have the dart, even for women's tops. The purpose of this research was to compare the fit and appearance of the torso pattern for circular knitted fabric between virtual try-on garments and real garments. First, a woman in her 20's was scanned by a 3D body scanner, and thus producing a virtual avatar. I prepared knit patterns and created a torso pattern appropriate for circular knitted fabric. Next, I measured the body size of the avatar. The 2D patterns for the torso and sleeves were developed using the Yuka Super ALPHA : Plus. The 3D virtual garments were made from the imported 2D patterns and were then tried on the 3D virtual avatars. Finally, the fit of the real garments and the virtual garments was compared. While the shape of the virtual try-on garments were similar to the real garments, the folding and sagging were different. This study found the length was the same as woven wear. However the actual bust size and the clothing size were the same which is not a typical characteristic of woven wear. In the case of hem measurement, more space was needed than actual body size but less space was needed than in woven patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.171-187
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• 2016

The study performed a comparison analysis of market brand patterns for slim-fit dress shirts and analyzed the body surface development figure of men in their 40s using 3D body scan data and developed slim-fit dress shirt patterns suitable for middle-aged men. The sizes of slim-fit dress shirt patterns showed a slight difference depending on brand. The overlap map of slim-fit dress shirt patterns for brands demonstrates how difference of one-dimensional sizes reflect on two-dimensional patterns. This map provides useful information for pattern design and allows and easy recognition of pattern size differences. A try-on system evaluation through 3D-Simulation allows a grasp of the fitness of neckline and size tolerance of under the arms in front, the silhouette of side lines, and overall fitness in front that also allows analysis of the front/back balance of a shirt in side, the size tolerance proportion in front/back, and the fitness of the arm-hole line. Thus, we obtained try-on results that were equivalent to wearing actual clothing. According to the drafting size suggested in the developed final pattern, the total width was 'C/2+5.5cm', and the front was set at 1cm bigger in the size difference of the front and back. The width of the front neck and the back neck was set identically at 'C/12', while the width of the front neck was set to 'C/12+1.5cm'. For the armhole depth, we added 'C/4+2cm', and '0.5cm and 1.5cm' for the width of the front and back to anthropometry. The results of the try-on evaluation through 3D-Simulation indicated that the fitness of the final slim-fit dress shirt pattern was superior to available slim-fit dress shirt patterns on the market and evaluated as superior to the types for middle-aged men.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.266-275
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• 2009

Variations of individual hip shapes are a major obstacle in pattern making for fitness. The drafting method is used for pattern making in today's apparel industry. Whilst catering to a limited number of information such as waist and hip sizes, this method does not cater to variations in hip shape. This paper describes the analysis of hip shapes using 3D body model and tries to make sure the relationship between hip shape and pattern by calculating hip angle and dart amount. We achieved results in analyzing various hip shapes by extracting hip angle. Moreover, various hip shapes can be divided into three types(A, B and C) by the hip angle value($K_{sh}-K_{wsh}$). When we use computerized draping method to make a personalized pattern for a tigth skirt, we easily create complex dart lines automatically. Therefore we achieve the result of individual dart amount such as distance between dart lines and dart areas. C type of hip shape had short dart length, long distance between dart lines and a large amount of dart area. On the other hand, A type had long dart length, short distance between dart lines and small amount of dart area. B type had long length and long distance between dart lines and large amount of dart area. In traditional pattern making, distance between dart lines is usually proportional to amount of dart area because of similarity in dart line shape. In our pattern, there is no proportional relationship between dart line distance and dart area. This means that variations in hip shapes result in a wide variety of dart line curvature resulting in a wide range of dart area. By ensuring an accurate relationship between hip shape and pattern, it is possible to make patterns which result in clothing that not only fits well, but also exhibits other desirable properties.