• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 2020

This study is based on a representative body shape drawn from previous studies that classify adult male torso shapes. In this study, a design method is proposed by developing a tight-fit pattern that can be easily developed into various items and designs using the body surface development figure. This is obtained by converting the 3D body shape of the model representing the representative body shape. The specific design method was conducted as follows. Actual measurement values were used for waist back length, waist-to-hip length, shoulder length. The scye depth was determined as C/4-1.7 cm, and the front and back Interscye was set at (1/2 × actual measurements)-0.2 cm. The front-back neck breadth was set to (1/5 × base neck circumference)-1.3 cm and (1/5 × base neck circumference) cm. The front-back neck depth was set to (1/5 × base neck circumference)-1.2 cm and 3.5 cm. Front chest circumference was C/4-1 (front-back difference)cm; (1/4 × back chest circumference) was C/4 + 1 (front-back difference) + 0.3 (dart amount) cm. Front waist circumference was W/4-0.2 (front-back difference) + 2.2 (dart amount) cm; back waist circumference was W/4 + 0.2 (front-back difference) + 2.5 (dartamount) cm; front hip circumference was H/4 + 0.2 (ease) + 0.2 (front-back difference) cm; and back hip circumference was H/4 + 0.2 (ease)-0.2 (front-back difference) cm; Front droop was 1.6 cm. The newly developed tight-fit pattern is expected to be of great use as a basis for garment construction.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.551-565
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• 2012

The primary goal of this study was to provide a systematic methodology of utilizing 3D technology for tight-fit performance sportswear using information of skin deformation in various posture. Technical tools used in this study are Cyberware whole body scanner, RapidForm2004, 2C-AN 3D pattern development program, and YukaCAD. Analysis of the 3D skin deformation while knee joint was bent from $0^{\circ}$ to $60^{\circ}$ revealed that the length of dermatomes L4 was remained consistent during knee bending. Therefore, L4 was chosen as a major cutting line. To develop a highly ergonomic pattern, replicas of static and dynamic postures were developed and integrated using two methods, one is morphing method (Sqirlz Morph), and the other is AutoCAD. Experimental tight-fit garments called 'Derm-Mov Pattern' was designed using dematomes L4, L2, and inner line under knee and compared with four other patterns. As results, AutoCAD was appropriate as a integrating method of various postures. In wear test, 'Derm-Mov Pattern' was rated high (p < .001), in terms of pressure comfort especially around front crotch area. However, wear sensation was not signipicantly different in other area due to highly extensible property of materials. Pressure distribution was relatively even in these experimental garments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.4 s.94
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• pp.95-106
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to research the design methods to express jacquard design using CAD. For this study, two design patterns were divided; in addition, each design pattern is applied to two different weaving types, single woven fabric and double well cloths. As a result, 16 samples were produced by applying 4 design methods (warp shrunk as half size design/weft shrunk as half size design - A, warp shrunk as half size design/weft original size design - B, warp original size design/weft shrunk as half size design - C, warp original size design/weft original size design - D) to the two design patterns with the two weaving types. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. 1. The most delicate design method was Method D. However, Method B which took half the time less than Method D was almost as delicate as the Method D on the surface. 2. Method B was judged as a considerably efficient method for time and cost. 3. Method D was considered as most suitable for elaborate parts and delicate lines. However, it was considered uneconomical since it took the longest time. 4. Mettled A took 2.5 times less time than Method D. Therefore, Method A was more applicable to producing high density design. 5. Method C is not considered as a useful method as it showed rough surface and took long time by applying high design zoom except intentional design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.661-671
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• 2011

This study was designed to produce rounded belt pattern and tight-skirt pattern drafting method using 3D body scan data. Subjects were thirty women in their early twenties. In order to figure out the optimum cutting points, namely, where darts are made, using CAD program, curve ratio inflection points on the horizontal curve of waist, abdomen, and hip to find 1 point in the front, two points in the back part. The average length from center front point to maximum curve ratio was 7.7 cm(46.3%) on the waist curve; 7.9 cm(39.4%) on the abdomen curve. And the average length from center back point to maximum curve ratio point was 6.9 cm(39.0%) for first dart and 11.2 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the waist curve; 8.9 cm(35.8%) for first dart and 15.7 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the hip curve respectively. The cutting lines from were made up by connecting curve inflection points. After divided using cutting lines, each patch was flattened onto the plane and all the technical design factors related with patternmaking were measured, such as dart amount, lifting amount of side waist point, etc. Based on the results of correlation analysis among these factors, regression analysis was done to produce equations to estimate the variables necessary to draw up pattern draft method; F1=F8+1.1, $F4=2.5{\times}F2+0.9$, $F5=0.9{\times}F4+1.0$, $F6=0.3{\times}F4+0.4$, $B1=0.9{\times}B8+2.3$, $B4=2.1{\times}B2+1.3$, $B5=0.9{\times}B4+3.5$, and $B6=0.3{\times}B4+0.4$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.151-165
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• 2000

This study was to find out clothing design preferences, according to the clothing self-image of elderly women and to grasp the variety on clothing of elderly women and thereby to help in merchandise production planning and putting the brands into markets and to provide data for establishing a sales strategy a d to itemize women with the goods which can satisfy the desire and taste of consumer groups in the quality market. For this purpose , various researches as above were conducted .The object of this study was a total of 488 elderly women above full 55 from an elderly women and who lived in downtown Pusan. The data were analysed by using MANOVA, ANOVA , factors analysis and frequency analysis, and the Cronbach α was also applied . The conclusions made based on the theoretical background and the result of questionnaire surveys are as follows ; 1. The realistic self-image of clothing showed a similar pattern by age. 50's and 60's showed little difference by item but 70's was greater in variation between items compared to 60's. The response to each item was that most people answered "common" and they showed a pattern that responded low only in items of 'colorful' , individualistic', 'susceptible to fashion'. A similar pattern was shown by age band also in the ideal self-image and the response to each item appeared higher than in the realistic self-image , and also in items of 'colorful', 'individualistic ' , 'susceptible to fashion' the response appeared low and showed a unity. 2. The results of clothing design preferences examined on the self-image according to age are as follows ; 1) Fro jacket in the realistic self-image , 50's and 60's preferred 'tailed collar' , 'set-in sleeve', 'hips long' and 'plain jacket' and 70's agreed to the design preferences in the items except 'open collar' and also in the idealistic self-image , the degree of preference was same. 2) For skirt in the realistic self-image , 50's and 60's preferred 'tight skirt', 'normal length' , 'plain skirt' and it was appeared that 70's preferred 'pleat skirt' , 'medium length' , 'plain skirt'. Also in the idealistic self-image , the degree of preference was same. 3) For blouse in the realistic self-image, 50's preferred 'open collar', 'round neck line' , 'long set-in sleeve' , 'plain separation belt', 'open front', 'zipper' ad 60's agreed to the favorite designs with 50's except puff sleeve, and 70's appeared to prefer fastening buttons without belt. In the designs preferred in the idealistic self-image, 50's agreed with 50's of the realistic self-image and for 60's , the designs except puff sleeve type and no belt type agreed to 50's and 70's except puff sleeve agreed with 70's of the realistic self-image in their design preferences.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.294-309
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• 2015

This study aims to clarify the aesthetic values between emotion of human and expression of technology in contemporary fashion as it analyzes formative characteristics of related cases in fashion based on principles of 3D Printing technology and the viewpoint of mechanic aesthetics. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, 3D Printing fashion is not only expressed diverse variations by its principles of formative methods, materials and properties, but also changes of silhouette by applying system of designers. Second, general characteristics of 3D Printing fashion is represented by various applications in SLS system, and it can be specifically explained application to a portion of clothing, decorative roles of clothing, complicated pattern making through crossing fabrics using 3D scanner and displaying a certain object changing fashion styles, and so forth. Third, the formative characteristics of 3D Printing fashion from the perspective of mechanic aesthetics is as follows. It can be analyzed as the integration of metaphysical values through compared symbolization of natural feature and technical evolution, partial dynamics and interactive velocity-based, formative combinations for abstract expression using architectural components, cosmos images and substantialized structures through images of organic space interacted human shapes. As the mention above, 3D Printing technology can creative a diverse area of fashion, and express images of new technological fashion through various works with continuous development of techniques.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1205-1220
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to verify the change of body posture by putting on the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat. This study analyzed the female somatotype which puts on upper garments of Victorian era with using 3D body scan technology. Two sets of $19^{th}$ century women's bodice and waistcoat patterns were developed with the $19^{th}$ century model size and those patterns were used for making the experimental garments. The fit of experimental garments was evaluated by the degree of change with posture and waist measurements. Three women with the same waist girth measurements with the model size were participated to the fitting test. The postural change was measured from cross-sectional body diagrams. The result of this study showed that the waist measurement of the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice and waistcoat pattern was smaller than the waist girth measurement. These garments compressed the midriff of the body and it made women's distinct body silhouette. The waist girth measurement of 1876 bodice pattern was 9.2cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 5.0~6.1cm after wearing the 1876 bodice garment. The waist girth measurement of 1880 waistcoat pattern was 7.1cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 2.7~3.7cm after wearing the 1880 waistcoat garment. The back side parts of their waist were compressed and their postures were changed. The neck and shoulders were moved forward after wearing the experimental garments. These results showed that body posture could be changed to "S" shape silhouette as wearing the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.39-47
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• 1988

The aim of this study is to grasp the actual state of high school girls' clothing after liberalization of their uniform and to provide the reasonable guidance materials in clothing for both schools and homes. These are the results of the study 1. In the aspect of the favor of clothing and the interest in about clothes. a. They were fond of wearing "T" shirts, blue jeans in summer and pants and jackets in spring as their school wear. That implies that they enjoy wearing active and practical clothes. b. In the aspect of color, majority of them favored blue or similar colors, Also they had the tendency to love soft, simple clothe and more students preferred cloth without pattern. c. In their choice of them, they seldom paid attention to the informative-label are not their chief interest. d. More than half of girls prepare one or two suits in advance in a season, and they would prepare them deliberately This implies that their everyday life inclothing is based on the economic motive. 2. In the aspect of the purchasing clothes, a. Most of the girls bought them at the market and some of them at the direct-sales stall. b. when they purchased clothes, most girls were accompanied by their/mother and senior girls more often by their friends. c. The price and kinds of their favorite clothes such as "T" shirts and blouse was 5,000 won or so, and skirts, pants, one-piece and jackets are from the range of 5,000 won to below 10,000 won mostly. d. In regard to so-called brand-name items by popular designers, half of the girls responded that they wear some of such kinds of items because of superiority of sewing and longterm wearing, and the other half tend not to wear them due to high price.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 2012

This research was analyzed regarding comparing features of expressions between clothes in movie, , and cyber clothes that were made by Marvelous Designer2 which is a design CAD. This research was studied to experiment an expressing possibility of clothes simulation software which was developed currently. Therefore, we picked clothes that are good at movement and detail in the movie. The dress theory of the renaissance which is the period background of movie, was considered and studied as pattern, silhouette, material, color, detail and animation. The movie's dresses are made with 3D virtual and compared so 3D virtual clothes's benefits and weaknesses can be analyzed. As a result, we found that 3D virtual dress can show the real movie's feature accordingly with current developed IT standard. This will assist a development in fashion industry and become a new indicator for 3D movie clothing.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.79-88
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• 2022

In order to develop a bodice prototype suitable for obese women in their 20s, this study compared and analyzed a total of five pattern system methods, including prototype of France and Japan, one prototype for education in Korea and two prototype for industries in Korea. Through this, this study attempted to investigate the bodice pattern system suitable for the development of plus-size women's clothing. For the pattern drafting, pattern 1 was applied with the most body dimensions such as interscye fold front, interscye fold back, bust circumference, neck circumference, and waist back length, and pattern 2, pattern 4, and pattern 5 were made based on bust circumference and waist back length. As a result of the appearance evaluation, Pattern 3 was evaluated as the best pattern in all items except for the suitability of the center front length and the suitability of the side waist circumference position. However, it was evaluated as inappropriate in items such as the vertical side line, the suitability of the side waist circumference line position, the suitability of interscye fold back position and shape, and the suitability of the back shoulder dart position. Most of the pattern drafting methods are based on the size of the bust circumference, but other institutional methods are considered necessary when setting the neck circumference and shoulder length for 20s obesity women. In addition, it is also required to develop a method for setting the front center length due to abdominal protrusion.