• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.1 no.1
• /
• pp.110-126
• /
• 1997

This dissertation intended to investigate the black color as a fashion color of the late 20th century and the aesthetic consciousness of black fashion. Black usually expressed a negative meaning, and was regarded as a color for a mourning and a sacred dress in western culture. There found several periods of black trend specially after 14th century. Black was considered as a traditional color of men's fashion since Dandyism. By the effect of art d co fashion, the perception toward black changed to a new beauty in 20th century. There continuously found a lot of aspects of black fashion in the late 20th century. In the high fashion, popularity of black, could be seen at five different look and style : The era of line alphabet, pantaloons suit style, folklore style, mannish look and unconstructive design by Japanese, and in street fashion, it showed at four different style and fashion: Beat style, mods and rockers style, punk fashion and fetish fashion. The aesthetic consciousness of black fashion at the late 20th century mentioned above should be summarized as follows. : Minimalism, dandyism, nihilism, asceticism, eroticism. In 1990s, the black appeared under the retro mood, and it should be regarded specially as one fashion trend of inclination of simplicity. Black should be called the representative color of 20th century fashion with the reason of containing the most of aesthetic consciousness in modern fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.11 no.6
• /
• pp.925-940
• /
• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze the major influence of postmodernism on 20th century fashion. Due to its characteristic traits like pluralism, indeterminacy, and immanence, it can be said that postmodernism in fashion manifests itself in an overlapped and duplicated style. The conceptual side has to do with such various 20th century thoughts as decanonization, deconstruction, populism, and in fashion it is presented as subcultural style, syncretic style, and post-feminist style. The stylistic side of postmodernism in fashion also has to do with fragmentation, hybridity, stress on performance and participation, carnivalization, deconstructive turn, and it is presented as hybrid expression, deconstructive technique, performance, and so on. In the latter part of the 20th century in which postmodernism blossoms in various fields, fashion also participates in the current of the times, together with the rapid stylistic turn, the co-existence of various trends, and the experimental or avant-garde new trials. However, it should be said that all of these tendencies mean not so much blurring of the boundaries between styles as developmental mixture of styles coming from juxtaposition after fully realizing the boundaries of contrast and combination.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.26 no.6
• /
• pp.911-922
• /
• 2002

This research aims to study comparatively on the aesthetic characteristics of the Technology Art and Technology Fashion Images in the 20th century. For this purpose, literature survey and demonstrative study were undertaken. The results were as follows ; As the concept of the art in the 20th century has been broadened by the development of technology and the creative application of it in the art, the relationship of the art and fashion has been much closer. The Technology Art and Technology Fashion Images in the 20th century have been developed by using technology itself and its artifacts directly or indirectly to express their attitude on the advancement of technology of the time. The plasticity of the Technology Art and Technology Fashion Images in the 20th century was identified as geometrical forms, high-tech materials, futuristic colors and lights and dynamic expression. The internal meanings of the Technology Art and Technology Fashion Images in the 20th century were identified as functionality, arrant-garde, utopian future orientation to improve human's life.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.67-81
• /
• 2003

This study is for analyzing relationship between clothing and shoes design in the 20th century fashion through studying changes of fashion style. At the beginning of the 20th century, the length of skirts became shorten, so that shoes can be shown. For the result of that. shoes has been developed rapidly in its shape, color, material and ornament with having relations with clothes. The 1st World War made fashion to change into economical style. According to that, shoes also changed with regarding its activities and economical efficiency. In the middle of the 20th century. according to the development of mass media. the stars fashion influenced on the trends of clothes and shoes. As young generation. who leads fashion trends, prefer easy and active clothes, shoes also changed into easy style, sneakers were worn widely and platform sole was applied into various shoes. As a result of this study, shoes design was dynamically changed according to fashion style. The study on its functional efficiency is actively studied now however. the study of shoes design is not. When regarding shoes were always worn with clothes, it is impossible to think shoes and clothes are two things. and also I hope the study on relations between clothes and shoes can be more active and consistently implemented.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.12 no.2
• /
• pp.55-65
• /
• 2010

The present study purposed to compare formative expression between the fashion of the end of 19th century - early 20th century and that of the 21st century which were influenced by art nouveau and art deco. For this purpose, we analyzed contents in literature, Internet, etc.,. According to the results of this study, the formative expression of art nouveau were divided into continuous movement, optical illusion and decorative expression. Continuous movement was used to express fancy and soft images in the end of 19th century, and to express images giving the feeling of speed and tension in the 21st century. Optical illusion was expressed by the movement the thin and soft materials with the body movement and the movement of excessive frills adornment. And in movement produced using thin and soft materials and by the bias cutting method in the 21st century. Decorative expression was expressed as fantasy and decadent image in the end of 19th century and as mild passionate and modern image with color combination in the 21st century. The formative expression of art deco were divided into visual simplicity, contrastive loudness, and functional expression. Visual simplicity was expressed as a boyish image in the early of 20th century, but as a complex expression combining simplicity and femininity in the 21st century. Contrastive loudness was expressed by using colors both in the early of 20th century and 21st century. Functional expression was reinforced through the lightening of design and materials in the early of 20th century, but through using bias cutting high tech materials in the 21st century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.29
• /
• pp.23-38
• /
• 1996

The purpose of this study was to analyze the characteristics of the Minimal Art represented in the second half 20th century fashion. All the mode of dress worn this century have developed from the stimulus of a chang-ing society fired by new discoveries and a zest for the new and different. It would appear that even more dramatic changes will soon occur in our clothing styles the effects of which will be farreaching. Many of today's styles intended to dress our psyche rather than our bodies and this if fully understood by the new designers whose influ-ence will become increasingly more potent as we approach the new century. The highly developed material civilization resulted in human alienations environmental distruption, l By this fact human being of the 20th century was to overcome social com-plexity. Accordingly their search for simplicity was interested in the 60's style. Especially the formativeness of the 60s style was repre-sented in the second half 20th century fashion. In this paper it was focused that how the characteristics of the Minimal Art was expressed in the second half 20th century fashion. minimalism was a quest for basic elements repesenting the fundamental esthetic values of art. without regard to issues of content. At its most extreme it reduced art not ot an eter-nal essence but to an arid simplicity. "Primary Structure" the most suitable name suggested for this type conveys its two salient characteristics : extreme simplicity of shapes and a kinship with architecture. minimalist works are charcterized by huge dimensions coldness and absolute aesthetic neutrality. minimalist artists ambition is to de-fine through the most rudimentary materials such as plywood galvanized iron aluminum plastic and wood a new order of the space. The environment is just as important as the object itself. Similary the use of new tough materials. such as vinyl metal and plastic at late half of the 20th century fashion related to the formativeness of the Minimal Art. And the style of 20th fashion was holded the internal meanings in common the formativeness of the Minimal Aet thorough the various texture pat-tern silhouette etc.uette etc.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.29 no.1
• /
• pp.1-12
• /
• 1991

The purpose of this study was to identify external form and internal symbolism of oriental dress on the 20th century western fashion. Documentary studies and objective studies were done with descriptive, inductive and content analytic methods. In documentary research, concepts about culture, dress as a cultural sub-system, the from of dress, and the gender symbolism of dress were reviewed. In objective research, oriental fashion photographs in $\ulcorner$Vogue$\lrcorner$ during 1969-1989 were selected and analyzed, for the descriptions of samples, the form of dress, the perception of waist parts, the dressing manner. The synthetic results were as followes; 1. There were the geographical and national terms such as east, Orient, China, India, Japan, and so on in the descriptions of samples; and there were the costume terms such as herem, kimono, pyjama or pajama, sarong, and so on in the descriptions of samples. 2. The from of oriental dress on the 20th century western fashion was identified with draped type. This can be interpreted that in orient, there was no desire to reveal body figure through dress, therefore, for the long time, sustaining draped type of dress has been. 3. The perception of waist part in oriental dress on the 20th century western fashion was not made. So, it can be interpreted that in orient, there was no desire to distinguish both sexes through the emphasis of waist part in dress. 4. The dressing manners of oriental dress on the 20th century western fashion were wearing of trouser and layering mainly, symbolizing the confusion of gender distinction through dress.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.8 no.6
• /
• pp.123-136
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this the end of 20th century fashion about various phenomenon of distopia. This study have the analysis and consideration through the elements and peculiarity of distopia. This study give us the various figures of distopia st fashion as well as the common features of distopia. The study method refers to sundry records, thesis, fashion magazine, publication, the collection works and internet. It is as follows. 'Distopia' prefix to dis of Utopia and means unknown future. Distopia trends towards future negatively. The end of 20th century, it is well brought out various cultures. Movie, novel and pop culture have effect on end of the 20th fashion with a view of distopia. It is the fear and uncertainty of the future. The characters of distopia through the works are divided into formative characteristics and aesthetics meaning. The future fashion of distopia expression mixed and various cultural life, also the mixed of utopia and distopia fashion. Distopia stimulates the designers to the new expression and expose their new areas.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.20 no.1
• /
• pp.87-97
• /
• 1996

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 20, No. 1 (1996) p. 87∼9'F The purpose of this study was to identify the change and chracteristics of 20th men's fashion under the influences of America. The result of the study as follows: 1. England had led men's fashion and introduced new styles of men's fashion such as oxford bags, plus fours, drape cut etc. in the early of 20th century. But America, which had the strongest Political and financial power after World War I, II, proposed Americans cut, soot sit, bold look. 2. In the first half of 20th century men's fashion was no longer created by imitation royalty and students of private school. American movies exerted tremendous influences on the clothing styles. Genereal public adopted the dress of movie stars and American men's fashion magazines inspired the new fashion and generated sales. So America made a contribution towards democratization of men's fashion. 3. Automobile industry and leisure living of America changed American life styles and clothing styles. The wealthy made fashionable tours to foreign country and European beach resorts. So their casual styles, summer business suits and dinner jackets effected 20th men's fashion. Therefore America played an important role in casualization of men's fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.19 no.3
• /
• pp.1-13
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this research is to analyze the morphological relationship between changes hair styles and changes in necklines and collars in 20th century fashion. After selecting the representative plate by each age for this study, the neckline, collar, and formative relevancy of hair style according to it have been analyzed by measuring the neckline, collar, and the width and height item of each hair style. The results of this study show- that the width changes of necklines and collars were mostly proportional in relation to each other, but the width changes of collars and hair styles were inversely proportional. While the amplitude of necklines and collars' width change was very broad, the amplitude of some hair style's height change was very broad. Regarding width, this result had similar results of the researcher's former research, the relation according to the width of necklines, collars and hair style from 16th century to 19th century. However, regarding height, this result was different from the preceding research in that the amplitude of hair style and collars' height change was very broad between 16th and 19th centuries, but the amplitude of neckline's height change is relatively small. This means various heights of necklines appeared in the 20th century, but more various heights of collars were shown between the 16th and 19th centuries. This research hopes to be helpful by predicting trends in fashion, and to be basic resources to understand the systemic relationship of these factors.