• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.25-37
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• 2005

This is a study on the origin of fashion imaging. First of all, 1 looked into the history of French fashion printmaking from late 16th century to early 19th century. Then studied the changes in the characteristics of context and form over the different periods and summarized each concept. At the same time, I looked into the process of fashion magazine evolving from fashion printmaking. In order to find out how fashion printmaking dealt with the characteristics of fashion media, 1 researched the commercial environment of fashion printmaking and reorganized the methodology of its media's role. Such analysis and results helped to reach a definition on how to regulate fashion printmaking. Fashion imaging was sparked by a small curiosity. As people began to be rage over new things, it came to introduce the fashion leaders of the public combined with the attributes of trend. At times when changes were so big that they were unpredictable, it itself became a fashion leader. Then a fashion creator emerges and it's function changes to that of a communication media. Moreover, the regular issuance of fashion printmaking implemented the concept of trend cycle and fashion imaging completely fulfilled the conditions of a communication media. The massive increase in the production of fashion printmaking and magazine contributed to the spread of fashion and the diffusion of printmaking lead to mutual complementation and synergy necessitated by fashion. Thus, the democratization of fashion and the commercialization of printmaking art occurred at the same time.

• 복식
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• 제36권
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• pp.239-262
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• 1998

The pursuit of freedom by the individual--desire to be liberated from all forms of restrictions-- is one of the defining character-istic of the modern society. As costume is, in part, a product of the spirit of the times, it was only natural that this desire for freedom would find its expression in modern costume as well. Among various forms of restrictions, differentiaton by sex has placed one of the most significant binding influences on individual behavior. From early times, the dichotomous division by sex was incorporated into the disign of costume, and the traditional differestriction of costume by sex imposed a significant restriction on the background,“the modern androhynous look”was born as a by-product of the sexual liberation movement in the second half of the 20th century, based on the concept of the individual as a complete human being rather than as a member exclusively of either the male or the female sex. This paper seeks to examine the androgynous look within a coherent theoretical frame-work, and explore new design possibilities by analyzing and understanding the visual characteristics of the androgynous look. In addition, this paper seeks to define the functional aspects of the androgynous look based on the premise that costume is an embodiment of the spirit of the times. As for research methodology, both theoretical and historical methods are employed. Through a theoretical examination of historical documents, the meaning of the androgynous look is explored from various angles, and order to examine its place in modern fashion, an-drogynous styles are categorized and system atically analyzed. The main findings of the paper can be summarized as follows : 1. Androgyny is a compound word consisting of“andro-”(meaning man) and“gyn-”(meaning woman). In modern times, this word has been associated with the socio-cultural aspect of gender rather than the physical or physiological aspect with the pshchological characteristics of the male and female sexes. Androgynous styles also appear in fashion and general arts such as drama, film, dance, and music. In fashion, the androgynous look, represented by the visual superimposition of “masculine”and “faminine”elements, has emerged as a major element of the 20th-century costume, and has gained broad acceptance among those free spirits wishing to be liberated from the conventional conceptions of male clothing, and the unisex look. 3. The androgynous look in modern fashion reflects the spirit of the 20th century society and culture, and performs various functions as follows : expression of fun, change in gender roles, expression of the inner consciousness, and pursuit of the ideal human type.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2005년도 International Costume Conference PROCEEDING
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• pp.114-115
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• 2005

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.387-403
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• 2003

This study aims to analyse a trend of exoticism which is often mentioned in the contemporary western fashion. I analyse the internal elements of the exoticism in the fashion. By applying these elements to the exoticism of modern fashion, I intended to make it a useful instrument fur interpreting modern fashion. The results of this study are as follows. The internal elements of exoticism are summarized as escapism, curiosity, fantasy, hybridism and pluralism. 1. From the 19th century to the 1960s . The exoticism shown in the western fashion are influenced by such elements as curiosity and escapism. And diverse and plural exotic elements added a fantastic element to the exoticism. 2. After 1960s : Escapism acted much more because people thought exoticism offer a refuge from overall social problems of modern consumer society. Late in the 20th century, fantastic and hybrid element became more prominent in exoticism. And I found pluralistic view point was the other element of exoticism.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.513-524
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to trace the development of Chintz pattern design through fashion history, and to focus on its application in modern times with special emphasis on filtered Chintz patterns. Chintz patterns use such motives as tree, animal, bird, and geometrical shapes, etc.. It reached the peak of its popularity with William Morris. His influence continued from the end of the 19th century through to the 20th century. Modern Chintz designs have been modified and diversified in different cultures through time, and such diversification & changes can be easily found in modern fashion. From previous studies and other related sources, we found that Chintz patterns were revived in modern fashion trends with some modification. We also discovered the importance of chintz pattern designs in ethnic and retro trends. Thus in conclusion, this study revealed the significance, flexibility, and lasting popularity of Chintz pattern designs in fashion history.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권1호
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• pp.62-75
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• 2020

In this study, clothing items recorded in Nappyemulmok (納幣物目) and Ugwimulmok (于歸物目) in the early 20th century were examined. These clothing items were recorded on the lists of goods for wedding gifts from the 1910s to the 1930s. A large quantity of these lists were organized into eight categories by analyzing the fabrics of each item of clothing. Representative fabrics used for skirts and Jeogori (such as Myeongju, 明紬) were used widely. Jeoksam was mostly made with ramie fabric. Pants mostly used cotton such as Dangmok, Mumyung, and calico, with some use of silk. Gojaengi mostly used cotton such as Dangmok, Mumyung, and calico, with some use of ramie. Danui (單衣) used silk fabrics such Pparinseu, Myeongju, and Gyoju for decorative features that were revealed when rolled up. Naeui (內衣) is believed to be the closest underclothes to the body, and Mumyung was mostly used. Dangmok and calico were used for the Yodae (腰帶) and fabrics such as silk, Nobangju, and JuhangNa were used for outdoor use. This type of categorization is significant, as it can be used as academic evidence to verify and reproduce the clothing of the time by identifying fabrics, colors, and characteristics of certain items of clothing. Lastly, it is expected that the analysis of clothing will provide theoretical data in the same way that movies, dramas, and museum exhibitions feature modern traditional weddings.

• 복식
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• 제67권4호
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• pp.131-152
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to analyze modern fashion culture in the 20th century through changes in transmedia in order to better understand characteristics of fashion contents. The study also strived to identify the characteristics of remediation in modern fashion and media by exploring the cultural code, and use it to establish an integrated view. The subjects and the method of the study are as follows. First, the study analyzed the development of transmedia and fashion culture since the 20th century. Second, it identified the transitional characteristics of transmedia. Third, the study analyzed the characteristics of remediation in modern fashion culture by using the characteristics of mediation, which appeared with the transitional characteristics of transmedia. The study results are as follows. First, the types of remediation are 'borrowing,' 'Representation,' 'Expansion,' 'Refashion,' and 'Absorb.' In old and new media, each type can be aesthetically experienced in 'transparency,' opaqueness,' 'Hypermediacy,' and 'Immediacy.' Second, fashion culture can undergo a transformation from its original form to a second and a third iteration, and this process allows for possibility of an expansion of multiple plots and well-rounded character settings. This opens up the possibility for fashion consumer participation, and signifies a transition into an environment where expansion of time and space is possible. The third finding is the non-mediation of fashion objects. The mediating relationship between clothes and media is directly connected to the development of new media. The immersion of new media by fashion consumers has the characteristics of 'transparency'/'Non-mediation,' and the reinterpretation and reproduction of original fashion styles have the characteristics of 'opaqueness'/'Hyper-mediation.' Fourth, fashion culture has data variability. Through 'Borrowing,' 'Representation,' 'Expansion,' 'Remodeling,' and 'Absorption,' the cultural hierarchy of reproduced fashion forms a multi-layered integrated network. Mediation code, which repurposes fashion culture contents, also creates new media fashion through transmedia.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.383-394
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• 1996

Even it's not easy to in the cycle of the change without the qualification of the data, but we can try to figure out a cycle of change in fashion as Kroeber used content analysis. As content analysis with quantitative data increases the objectivity, especially in the case of highly complex materials like s appearance, multi-directional research method; quantitative and qualitative methods are combined in this study. In this research, first the change in hair length(HL), hair width(HW), hair height(HH) was examined to find out possible cyclic aspects of change in each elements and the significant relationships among the hair style was probed and the cyclic aspects between hair style elements and skirt style elements were compared. The data was analyzed by using Time series analysis and Pearson correlation coefficients. The statistical analysis of the hair style of 20th century showed that the hair style's elements changed independently and indicated the cyclic aspects in hair style as Kroeber's fashion cycle. To consider of this result, the hair style changed in a cyclic pattern, its pattern were different from skirt style's. And as hair style's change was affected by change, the hair styles change appeared during wars and disappeared during a social stabilization; this result supports social change theory.

• 복식
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• 제64권1호
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• pp.89-105
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• 2014

This study researched the changes in everyday wear in China since the mid-20th century. The study was conducted by interviewing 13 Chinese persons who were familiar with the public awareness and donning practices of the Chinese from 1949 to now, and the results were analyzed through categorical analysis and subject analysis. First of all, due to the influences of Zhongshan-zhuang, Liening-zhuang and Bulaji, political characteristics were represented the most during the reconstruction time, and during this time, Jieyueling also became famous. Second, during the period of the Cultural Revolution, the government used many mechanisms to control people's thought, so Junfu/Junbianfu and sailor shirt were the most common clothing. Third, information from the West began to enter the Chinese market and it started to influence and change the Chinese thinking. Suit, bat wing sleeves, colorful skirt, flares and jeans became more and more popular in the reform and open times. Fourth, during the personality expression time, people not only copied fashion icons' styles, but also created new styles like sexy, cute, ethnic, K-pop, street, and DIY style, in order to show their personality. Finally, during these 60 years, the changes of Chinese everyday wear were characterized by de-politicization, ready-made, diversification and individualization.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.89-102
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• 2004

Modern society is age of sports just as health and leisure became dominant concern, which has caused the fixation and development to sports wear considered as fashion for everyday dress. This paper focused on the development process and aesthetic characteristics of knit design expressed in the 20th century sports wear. The importance and direction of knit design in modern sports wear is expected. Style, items, fabrics, colors, details and top designers were analyzed in sports wear from the 1910' s to 1990' s. Sports wear can be categorized into two of the active sports wear and spectator sports wear. Since disappearance of division between ordinary wear and sports fashion in the 1970' s, the functional wear of leggings, cycle shorts, exercise clothes, leotard, and leg warmer appeared. Vicennial developments of synthetic fibers and new fabrics have caused the great changes in knit design. Colors were vivid in the 1950' s, metallic in the 1970' s and neon in the 1990' s. Sportive sense was expressed by various details. The dominant knit designers who expressed aesthetic characteristics to sports wear were Coco Chanel, Claire McCardell, Balenciaga, Andre Courrege, Pierre Cardin, Yves Saint-Laurent, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, and Giogio Armani.