• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2001년도 International Costume Conference:Exploring Global Costume Culture
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• pp.81-81
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• 2001

• 복식
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• 제29권
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• pp.23-38
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• 1996

The purpose of this study was to analyze the characteristics of the Minimal Art represented in the second half 20th century fashion. All the mode of dress worn this century have developed from the stimulus of a chang-ing society fired by new discoveries and a zest for the new and different. It would appear that even more dramatic changes will soon occur in our clothing styles the effects of which will be farreaching. Many of today's styles intended to dress our psyche rather than our bodies and this if fully understood by the new designers whose influ-ence will become increasingly more potent as we approach the new century. The highly developed material civilization resulted in human alienations environmental distruption, l By this fact human being of the 20th century was to overcome social com-plexity. Accordingly their search for simplicity was interested in the 60's style. Especially the formativeness of the 60s style was repre-sented in the second half 20th century fashion. In this paper it was focused that how the characteristics of the Minimal Art was expressed in the second half 20th century fashion. minimalism was a quest for basic elements repesenting the fundamental esthetic values of art. without regard to issues of content. At its most extreme it reduced art not ot an eter-nal essence but to an arid simplicity. "Primary Structure" the most suitable name suggested for this type conveys its two salient characteristics : extreme simplicity of shapes and a kinship with architecture. minimalist works are charcterized by huge dimensions coldness and absolute aesthetic neutrality. minimalist artists ambition is to de-fine through the most rudimentary materials such as plywood galvanized iron aluminum plastic and wood a new order of the space. The environment is just as important as the object itself. Similary the use of new tough materials. such as vinyl metal and plastic at late half of the 20th century fashion related to the formativeness of the Minimal Art. And the style of 20th fashion was holded the internal meanings in common the formativeness of the Minimal Aet thorough the various texture pat-tern silhouette etc.uette etc.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.29-47
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• 2018

This study aims at looking into women's costume style seen in 18th century to 19th century, and reason out a major decoration, then the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration were analyzed. Research results are same as follows. Firstly, the style of women's costumes in the 18th and 19th century includes the Rococo style, Polonaise style, Neo-classic style, Romantic style and Bustle-style. The main decorations shown in these styles are the gather pleats drape of Fold decoration, the flat embroidery quilting of embroidery decoration, and the ribbon braid fringe button feather and fur of attachment decoration. Secondly, the analyzed results found the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration in the 18th and 19th century women's costumes. Fold decorations appeared as a voluminous property in the form of gown mantua jacket pelisse and dress. Especially, femininity and exaggeration were expressed through greatly inflated skirts. Embroidery decoration appeared as planarity by making patterns of gown mantua jacket stomacher overskirt coat dress shawl and dolman. Especially, exaggeration and extravagance were expressed through embroidered mantua surfaces with peony rose poppy primrose daffodil morning glory tulip leaf and lattice patterns in variety of colored silk threads. Attachment decorations were mixed with elements of heterogeneity added to jackets, coats, gowns, petticoats, stomachers, mantuas, pelisses, mantles, dolmans, capes, overskirts and dresses. In particular, exaggeration and extravagance strongly expressed through the decoration with white fox fur at the hemline, neckline and sleeves of cream colored silk dolman.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제34권2호
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• pp.5-30
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to observe artistic of Expressionism reflected to works of European costume designers by analizing works of seven major representative costume designers in the twentieth century. They are Mariano Fortuny, Paul poiret, Madelene Vionnet, Jean Patou, Jeanne Lanvin, Gabriel Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. These designers deployed individual and various creative costume design work with peculiar expresive techniques, which is based on the Expressionism. Although each creative work was made in extremely unique sense, there was comon expressive spirituality I their creative activity. The findings are as follows : 1. Based on the "Medieval-directed characteristic" which arose over all fields of art of those days, a modern and reformative clothing beauty was created by reanalyzing traditional motive. 2 Characteristic of Cubistic Expressionism were described in overall silhouette of clothing and fine decorative element. 3. Fantastic Expressionism, which pursued basic worth from the primitive and ethnic customs, effected costume style of early 20th century and draw such designers as Mariano Fortuny, Leon Bakst, Paul Poiet, Elsa Schiaqarelli to adopt intensive and primary color. And it also gave an impact against traditional concepts by accepting fantastic oriental Exoticism.Exoticism.

• 복식
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• 제62권2호
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• pp.26-39
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• 2012

This study intends to reconsider pleat, which was undermined as something too simple to express the details for women's costume, by focusing on the aesthetic value of plea in men's costumes in the west before the 20th century. Furthermore, based on the aesthetic value of the pleat, diverse studies on contemporary men's costumes shall help to attempt to set up a basis for the new mode of men's costume. The pleat, a component in the costume since the ancient times, had unique characteristics including functionality, a sense of volume, directing effect that is caused by line repetitions and formativeness that results through elasticity. First, the aesthetics of the pleat before the 20th century shows rhythmic sense through the repetition of the pleat line as shown in the drape type costume, and it also shows a sense of volume as the pleat is moved along the motion of the body. Second, it shows functionality as the expansion of space moves in accordance with the motion of body sets up an internal space of the costume that facilitates body motion. Third, the pleat extends two dimension space into three dimension space using its elasticity. It exaggerates specific parts of the costume while ignoring body shape in order to symbolize status and authority of men. Fourth, it unifies the costume by wrapping the body by using quadrangle cloths with drapers, and expanding the silhouette with the pleat artificially to conceal the physical character and personality of the wearer. The physical character of the wearer disappears into the space made by the pleat. The pleat reveals the voluptuous beauty within.

• 복식
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• 제50권6호
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• pp.89-107
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• 2000

Underwear has undertaken the auxiliary role of outwear also. Thus, as outwear has changed forming the characteristic mode in every period, underwear has changed endlessly, so that it may match the form and function of outwear, in accordance with the stream of period. In this study, this researcher examined hoop and petticoat which were used for widening the skirt which is female clothes with diverse names in every period. under one name which is farthingale, centering around the West and korea, from 16th century to 20th century(the first term). In addition, it examined by comparison the relevancy between to the history and change factor of underwear which was used for swelling the skirt in Korean clothes. The result to have studied on the history and change factor about the farthingale of West and Korea is as follows: This study found that the silhouette of women's clothing has a strong relationship with underwear. Also The result to compare the underskirt of the West with that of Korea is as follows : They has other character, but in 18th century, being compared the underskirt of the West with that of Korea, for the swelling of skirt, this study found that they had something in common with the underskirt of the West and Korea.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.42-58
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• 2005

This study examines the color image of the early 20th century and compares the work of designers' who represented fashion and trend at that time with cinema costume which made after 1990's. This shows the relationship and differences between the color of the past which is presented through designer's works and present which is visualized through cinema costume. The result of this study shows that the color which is reproduced through cinema costume is decided according to the story, time period, scenery space and character of the film rather than being a genuine attempt at reviving the color of the past time period. The color is exaggerated or limited to manipulate the effects of character and story creating a stronger impression to the audience.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.315-323
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• 1992

The purpose of this research is the new experimental approach to the methodology of the costume history 'study. The basic frame is structured by the concept of the type. This is developed to the decoration type of the costume, originated by the classification of the decoration type of Ruskin. Using this, the researcher could analysis the decoration type of the costumes in the 19th century. In the result, the researcher could find that the change of the decoration type had the regular orientation of the oscillation through the periods. It is the experimental frame for the analysis of the styles. But it will provide the more extensive analytical frame on condition that catagorizations are completed. And it will be able to imply to the 20th century's costume.

• 복식
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• 제56권4호
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• pp.108-123
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• 2006

This Study is about the color images oi clothes in the early 20th century in the Eastern and Western culture and the recreation of this color images through modern costume design in film. The aim of this study is to show how early 20th century color has born reinterpreted through present film costumes and how different cultural perspectives can influence color images. For the purposes of this study, 30 pictures of clothing, representative of the early 20th century, as well as films which have been internationally recognized for their costume design and strong cultural identity('Farewell M) 'Concubine', 'Raise the Red Lantern', 'Chicago' and 'The English Patient') were chosen and analyzed. The color image of these photographs and scenes from the movies were divided by Pantone Solid Chips and categorized by color groups such as red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet, neutral and metallic. The analysis results of the color images in the early 20th century showed that the red group was used a lot in both cultures and the orange group was more often used in the West. In regards to the yellow group, goldish yellow were commonly used in the West but pale yellow was preferred in the East. The green group more used In the West but the blue group appears more in the East. Also, there were differences in color combination, texture and technique which demonstrates different cultural color recognition and association. In the case of film color image, present color image was added to past color image. In the West, color was used as a tool for visualizing the state of characters' mind and the mood of movies' story but in the East color image was intended to make the character stand out by changing the value and chroma. By comparing the color image of clothes from the early 20th century and color image from film in the West and the East, it is possible to analyze the cultural symbolic image of color. This study is one of first trials to analyze the cultural differences in rotor images and their symbolic meaning. Thus, further studies should persue to find out the influence of culture on the rotor image in terms of specific quantity and quality.

• 복식
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• 제52권6호
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• pp.85-102
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• 2002

The research has the aim of defining the special characteristics of the functionalist fashion design in the 20th century by understanding the essence of functionalism in the sociocultural contexts and studying functionalism in fashion design and architectural and product design by the comparative. Giving careful consideration to functionalist fashion design in the 20th century makes it possible to foresee the way of fashion design to meet the needs of the moderns and men of the future world. To obtain the purposes, documentary study and comparative study have been executed. Main results are as follows. Functionalism stressed in the beginning of the 20th century can be defined and categorized using three analogies, mechanical analogy of futuristic quality based on mechanical aesthetics and standardization by mass production, organic analogy in which the perfect beauty of nature is stressed on, moral analogy of fitness for purpose and absence of ornament based on integrity and sincerity. In while, functionalism in 1990s has been developed in different ways from those analogies. In comparative studies, functionalist fashion design and architectural and product design have the dissimilarity as well as the similarity of formative features. Since fashion design has much closer relation to human body and movements. it has been expressed considering a division of men and women and the places and times for the designs more than other designs.