• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.3 no.1 s.4
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• pp.1-12
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• 2005

The purpose of this thesis is to study the formative characteristics and symbolism shown in Rock stars' hairstyles through rock music to have influenced youth culture. There were a D.A style and a mop top style which included the youth characteristic to seek a new desire and value as the hairstyles of Rock & Roll stars, along with the characteristics of Rock & Roll music to represent the feeling of teenagers in 1950's at that time unlike the previous music due to high beats mixed with Rhythm & Blues (R & B) and Country music, and use of electronic guitars. We can see the desire for challenge and freedom against the then present regime, shouting love and peace, and resistance in the Psychedelic Rock music stars' hairstyle, which are untrimmed and disheveled, that is, natural. We can find explosiveness in Mohican and Spike style of Punk Rock stars playing fierce and aggressive music, along with words including indignation and assertion against the society's regime. The Artistic characteristic is implied in the following hairstyles: Glam Rock stars' hairstyle, a man's long-haired but a little long crew-cut style to reduce the bulky feeling and to give a bisexual, visible shock with hair dyed in orange to emphasize magnificence, and Punk Rock stars' hairstyle showing beauty in their own way with expression of anti-beauty to intentionally look ugly. Like this, the 20th Century's Rock music and youth culture are closely associated each other, and showed a new style, and played a leading role in street fashion, which became a momentum to much influence high fashion as a look of the 20th century modern fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.148-165
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• 2017

An assortment of daily supplies have been documented in and accounting book that Hwa-sun Song, a wholesale dealer in Hongcheon, Gangwon-do, sent to Young-hui Sin, a customer. This study analyzed a total of 163 documentations in the accounting book between 1910 to 1916, which includes types of daly supplies, trading volume, and prices, maintained accounting between. Consequently, we are able to indentify companies that produced the applicable goods, names of products, units by which goods were counted, and the lowest and highest prices prevailing, along with kinds of goods patronized in everyday life in Hongcheon in the early 20th century. Paper had the maximum trading volume. The second, most traded were cigarettes, a symbol of the new culture. These were traded under various brand names, such as Kkotpyo, Guksyu, Sanhopyo, Syonghak, and Joil. Foodstuffs, were the third most traded items, including fish, fruits, sugar, Waeddeok, Chilwaeddeok, Color candies and Okchyun candies. Our results indicate that the snack food business had developed since the 19th century. Lighting equipment, oil, candles, matches as well as traditional oil lamps and flints cornered the fourth largest stock being traded. Medications were fifth, with prescriptions written for Insohwan, Hoechyungsan and Siungo, including quinine, a medicine for malaria. Other trades included kitchen appliances such as soup bowls, porcelain bowls, kettles, and drinking cups, and a variety of daily supplies such as mirrors, mats, umbrellas, Geumjiwaemil, hair oil imported from Japan, and soap.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.67-86
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• 2011

This study intended to understand overall history of make-up in Korea in an integrated and diachronic context by interpreting women's will and desire to express themselves reflected in the cosmetics culture in each period centering on women's magazine cover, cosmetics advertisement, and articles from 1950 to 1999 and examining women's make-up image and characteristics in each period. A total of 919 women's magazines (Yeonwon (Women's Garden), Woman Sense, Yeoseong Donga (Women's Donga), Jubusaenghwal (Homemaker's Living), Yeoseong Jungang (Women's Jungang)) issued between 1950 and 1999 were examined for the study. Key words of each period were extracted through fashion and beauty related articles and advertisement titles to examine the make-up culture of Korean women and set the standard for the make-up image of Korean women. A total 1,252 pictures were shot for each period and categorized based on the standard for the make-up image of Korean women. Then, the changes in the make-up image of Korean women were examined and identified the characteristics of images along with the change of images in each period. Next, the meaning of each make-up image was examined. This can be interpreted as the expression of values and desire by modern Korean women, especially Korean women in the late 20th century, as well as the consciousness for coping with the changing society.

• Archives of design research
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• v.20 no.1 s.69
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• pp.5-20
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• 2007

The aim of this research is to find out the flows of mega-trends and design trends by analyzing the factors that influence trend and design trends in the late 20th century. Moreover, it is to forecast and recommend design color trends by evaluating color trends in design trends for the near future. Secondary and primary research were used in parallel. In the late 20th century, mega-trends were analyzed from secondary research based on PEST. Design trends were analyzed from case studies in fashion, space, product and visual design. On this basis, design color trends were analyzed. Also, color trends were forecast for the near future. The results are as follows. Firstly, the main trends in the late 20th century were 'female thinking', 'back to the nature' and 'heaven of peace'. Second, main design trends in the 1970s were modernism, post-modernism and high-tech. In the 1980s, with those of the 1970s, ecology was introduced In the late 1980s. In the 1990s, modernism rose again and ecology had an influence. The trends of 'female thinking' and 'back to the nature' controled the design in the early 2000s. Third, design colors in the late 20th century changed from Red to Purple Blue. Tones changed from 'grayish' to 'dull' Finally, it was forecast that Purple Blue, Yellow Red and Green colors with 'grayish', 'dull' and 'deep' tones were going to be used mainly in the near future. Also, achromatic colors with female and warm nuances would be reflected in design parts. This research will be very useful in that it has built a concrete database reflected on design trends forecasting in the near future by organizing academically a methodology to identify trends reflected on design and identifying relation between mega-trends and design trends based on analyzing factors that influence trend.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.51-63
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to review the symbolic meaning in 20th century men’s fashion through analyzing of social environment factors. After recent industrial society, men had expressed their privilege, prestige and social power according to fashion. Men's fashion at the beginning of the 20th century was emerged as the images of robustness and strictness with perfect cutting, thick and stick fabric and dark color that were influenced by british style. It was symbolic meaning of authority orientation which showed the superiorities of social and sex classes. It was beginning of change according to social phenomena. The world war Ⅰ,Ⅱ and change of lifestyle by material affluence in automobile industry mollified rules of men's fashion. It showed a serenity of living. Also, the growth of young culture changed trickle-down of men's fashion into bottom-up and showed opposition for elite culture in fashion. These change particularly became acceleration by Individualism, open-society and the collapse of sex class. Men expressed sexual and inherent desire for fashion that was no longer concerned with symbolizing of authority but rather with pleasure pursuit.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.109-118
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• 2013

Fashion icons of 21st century are not only the fashion leaders that show fashion trend but also the typical fashion signs or symbols that show visually changes in sensibility trends. The purpose of this study was to analyze the framework of 21st century fashion by the public to recognize through these changes. In this study, the background of the occurrence of various 21st century fashion icons and their characteristics were investigated and the changes of revealed features and symbolic meanings were examined compared with them of 20th century. The 24 celebrities which have been called as the bests of fashion icons since year 2000 were selected by searching the most popular search engines such as daum, yahoo and google, and 13 of them were picked as the highest in preference and awareness by surveying 50 students majoring in fashion. And then their fashion styles, backgrounds, and influence on the public fashion were studied. As a result, the 21st century fashion icons reflecting the cultural characteristics such as convergence and exaggeration and the sensitivities of fusion, collaboration, hybrid sensibility in art were powerful enough to create innovative styles destroying the era and the standard. Their styles have constantly created new looks. The exposed new individual sensitivities on media-fusion of two or more sensibility and coordination techniques without being tied to the existing anchorage system-were as influential as high fashion and leaded the imitation and reproduction by dazzling the public. As the media become more powerful, the influence of fashion icons interacted more closely with the public and has been evolved through the sensitivity of the reversal, cultural, economic, visual, or temporal fusions. To sum up, it is shown that the outstanding fashion styles suggested by the leading fashion designers have approach to the public more closely by the fashion icons.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.426-435
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to consider the changes of the early twentieth century fashion in pursuit of mechanical beauty. As for the research methodology, literature survey has been undertaken. The results of this study are as following. In early twentieth century, fashion concept on the expression of mechanical beauty was considered as abstractness, atypicality, and high-tech. The abstractness of fashion was expressed by geometrical purity, box silhouette, moderate color, and cheap materials in association with mechanical reasonability and efficiency. The atypicality of fashion was connected progressive taste motivated by mechanical dynamic effect. This tendency of dress was constructed technically in response with the movement of body and totally transgressed conventional notions of clothing. The high-tech of fashion was presented by geometrical forms and metal materials in relation with the future-oriented utopia and the harmony between human and machine.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.538-548
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• 2000

A study analyzes the eclectic trend shown in Andy Warhol look to explain the pluralistic aspect which is expressed in the late 20th century's fashion. Eclecticism is a trial to dismantle the barriers between pure art and popular art, high culture and low culture. This pursues harmonious accommodation and coexistence of all areas without being confined in the conventional lofty taste or high art. This thesis studies the characteristic aspects of the eclectic trend by classifying this trend into sell culture, mass media and fashion around the Andy Warhol look. The sexual eclectic trend in Warhol look is bisexual one shown in clubland and the world of modeling and supplies fashion with abundant expression and ambiguity. Warhol established cultural eclecticism by compounding high cultural factors and low cultural factors. broke up the boundary between street fashion and high fashion and escaped from the fixed idea on materials and design. Also he generalized and democratized specialty or nobility conventional paintings had possessed through introducing repetition and mediocrity and fully utilized every kind of mass media, Hollywood movie stars and daily necessaries in producing works. Andy Warhol who asserted‘Business Art’that was the mixed form of artistry and commercialism had creative and futuristic taste and proposed the direction to develop current fashion and art where the concept of economy is importantly brought into relief.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.702-713
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• 2000

The purpose of this paper is to deeply understand the transitional concept of gender expressed in the later 20th century fashion through analyzing of various literature. Gender is constructed in the context of social and culture different than sex which is inherent difference between man and women. Thus the concept of gender can be changed according to change of social and culture. There are imposing changes in gender since 60's owing to various factors; namely, feminism, subculture, deconstruction, development of technology, market economy, changing sex roles, etc. Especially in the 60's to 70's, as radical changes were took place, gender became vague more and more. Finally these days there is no fixed gender. In terms of meaning, there may be a number of genders-since there are as many meanings of sex as there are people who have thought about it. That is, sex is, gender means. Sex exists in itself, and is sublimely indifferent to what humans think of it, However gender is all the meanings we assign to sex. In accordance with this phenomena, people don't mind their sexes with appearance. There is only different disposition and taste.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.15-28
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• 2000

This paper focuses on the sports look expressed in 20th century fashion. It is Age of Sport just as rock'n roll became dominant cultural form of the 1960's and 1970's . In the 1990's the sportsware is fashion. Designers gazing into the future are inspired by the details and functionality of clothing for snow boarding , skiing , motorbike racing and fitness. No doubt fashion in 2000 will also be full of references to it. Since the late 1960's the sportswear that was originally a term for clothing worn for various sports activities in the 1890's has changed and is now considered as fashion for day as well as evening. This has occurred primarily in the U.S. due to the adoption of less formal lifestyles by Americans. while the sportwear is the term which stemmed from the need for functionality in sports, sports look is the style inspired by the formative elements, that is, the details, the shilhouette, and the colors of the sportswear. New technologies for sports, the powerful influence of youthful culture, and the celebritizations of the sports stars made the sports look much hipper and more popular. It can be categoried into three aesthetic values, I. e., the functional sports look,, purism and no useless ornament, the street sports look with fun, androgynous and unisex mode and the mix and match of different texture and colors, and the futuristic sports look with new high tech fabrics and avant-garde style.