• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.63-78
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• 2017

The purposes of this study was to study Turkic clothing traditions as a way to shed light on cultural development via the interactions among different tribes along the Silk Road, the close correlations between the surroundings of the Turks and their costumes, and the root of Turkic culture through literature studies and empirical studies. The study results are as follows. First, the Turks were nomadic equestrian tribes in the north that dominated the cold dry steppes from the $6^{th}$ to $8^{th}$ century A.D., when they expanded their influence to Dongbei, China to the east, and Turkistan (Central Asia) to the west. The Turks formed a nomadic lifestyle and culture suited to a cold dry climate, and interacted with various other tribes via the Silk Road, while exchanging and sharing different cultural aspects. Second, given that the Turkic garments constitute a two-piece style, which is a category of the basic nomadic costume of northern tribes, and that the artifact materials manifest jackets, overcoats, pants and skirts, the garments are categorized into tops and bottoms. The tops are sub-categorized into jackets and overcoats. The bottoms are sub-categorized into pants and skirts. In light of the necklines of tops, jackets have round necklines, while overcoats have V-necklines, round necklines and lapel collars. The bottoms include narrow-legged pants, wide-legged pants and closed-hem pants. Drapery skirts are worn at the waist. Third, the Turkic V-neckline overcoat is comparable to the Huns' silk overcoat, which illustrates the ethnic link between the two tribes. Also, the Turkic narrow- and wide-legged pants are consistent with the Huns' silk pants discovered in Noin Ula. The Turkic costumes are mostly tight fitting, suitable for the nomadic lifestyle in a cold, dry climate. Also, additional patches must be attached to the crotch points of pants due to the equestrian lifestyle.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.86-99
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• 2019

This research is a study on up cycling design to protect nature in order to postpone global warming to the maximum extent possible as it has been a serious global issue to the fashion industry and even to individual consumers. This research focuses on the ways to use wedding dress, one of the clothes made of synthetic fiber, which is a major cause of global warming. Among clothing from the 19th century, two styles of clothes, Bustle style and Art Nouveau style were analyzed ranging from their underwear styles to outwear styles through collections in books and museums. Two styles of dress using drawers, chemise, and corset as basic underwears were manufactured. All the fabric and subsidiary materials except for parts of underwears were made with discarded wedding dresses. It was developed for rental clothing which women could try on Western costume, from underwears to outwears. First, for bustle dress, woman put on basic underwears, then bustle, and bustle-type petticoat. Dress is a two-piece type, and it was made to put on detachable train on the back of skirt. Second, based on the Art Nouveau style clothes, our-glass style dress consists of petticoat, one-piece over drawers, chemise, and corset. After putting on drawers, both chemise, and corset were the same as Bustle Style. This research is a practical way of realizing sustainable design. The aim of the current work is to provide educational effect on the development of rental clothes which upcycle wedding dress and let women experience other cultures.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권9호
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• pp.31-39
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• 2006

This study was conducted to reproduce the two-piece sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size. Fourteen two-piece sleeve patterns of the ladies 'jacket of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. The length and width proportion of the upper-sleeve and under-sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's were similar to the two-piece sleeve pattern of jacket which we see now. The elbow line of the two-piece sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was lower than the two-piece sleeve of jacket of today. The cap of the sleeve of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was gathered and this gave volume to the upper part of sleeve but the lower part of the sleeve was tight. The study pattern of two-piece sleeve pattern which had the characteristics of the sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was designed like for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size through modifications based on the evaluation of dressing on two occasions. The study pattern was evaluated to have the silhouette of the sleeve of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's and to fit Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size with the sensory test.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제45권3호
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• pp.23-31
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• 2007

This study was conducted to reproduce the four-piece bodice pattern of a ladies' costume of the 1890's for Korean women in their twenties with a standard body type and average size. Eighteen four-piece bodice patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. The front width of the bodice was wider than the back width. The front bust line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back bust line, the side back bust line and the under-arm gore bust line. The front waist line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back waist line, the side back waist line and the under-arm gore waist line. The angles of the two waist darts of the bodice were very big but the legs of the dart were too short. The center front line of the bodice was oblique and curved. The angle of the back shoulder line of the bodice was bigger than the angle of front shoulder line. The shoulder seam line of the bodice was not placed on the top of the shoulder but behind the shoulder. The pattern characteristics of the bodice created a woman's silhouette that emphasized the volume of the bust, a chicken breast and a slim waist. The study pattern which had the characteristics of the four-piece bodice of the 1890's was designed like for Korean women in their twenties who have a standard body type and an average size through modifications based on the evaluation of two dressing occasions. The study pattern was evaluated to have the silhouette of the 1890's and to fit Korean women.

• 복식
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• 제63권4호
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• pp.158-167
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• 2013

The cotton fabric armour for lower class soldiers can be found from the historical records of the mid-Joseon Korea. And the records show that the form and the structure of the armour was modified in the late 19th century in order to provide better protection from gunshots for the soldiers in the midst of the invasions from the West. This is a survey and research of the only artifact of the cotton fabric armour remaining in Korea - for its form, dimensions, and design. Using the historical records as reference, we can confirm the structure and characteristics of the cotton fabric armour of the Joseon period. This cotton fabric armour, preserved in National Museum of Korea, is a vest-type armour made of 30 layers of cotton. On the right shoulder, there is a button for tying knots and strings were tied under both armpits. On the surface of the cotton fabric armour there were some characters and patterns stamped in black. Presently, this artifact in Korea is the only specimen relic of its sort, but there are some other related relics in foreign countries including helmets and belts. Continuous researches would help extend the scope of armour study beyond the traditional researches that only focuses on the armours of the officials, thus helping us to understand the military costumes in traditional Korea.