• 건축역사연구
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• 제26권4호
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• pp.19-34
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to comprehend the assignment and the procurement method of wood works' craftsman through the Salleung-dogamuigwes in royal tombs constructions in the late Joseon period. Following conclusions have been reached through the study. First, Carpenter and other nine craftsmen were introduced in carpentry works. The craftsmen were put in by occupation to maintain the quality of the government building construction by wood processing area. It was distinguished by frame member, Sujangjae, window framing wood, decorative member. Second, sawyer showed a sharp increase in the latter half of the 18th century and declined since the middle of the 19th century. This is closely related to the increase in demand for building materials and the growth of civilian wood products. As a maximum of 300 people have been assigned to the craftsmen in the woodwork, it can be seen that the work has been divided by the process. Third, the national carpenter was difficult to procure from the 17th century to the beginning of the 18th century. From the middle 18th century, the system procuring national carpenter was stabilized. In the 19th century, the input ratio of the national craftsmen seems to have decreased significantly and seems to have kept it at the minimum level. Forth, sawyer were procured through Seongonggam from the late 18th century through the mid 19th century. That means that the role of the sawyer had become important. Since Jogakjang is not a necessary manpower, it usually has civilian artisans.

• 복식
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• 제61권2호
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• pp.60-71
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• 2011

This study set out to examine Hakchangui worn in Joseon around the 18th century and further the relationships between the Chinese Hakchang and Joseon Hakchangui, as well as to figure out spread factors of Hakchangui. The study proceeded as follows: 1)The Hakchangui was examined those appearing in the collections of works and paintings after the 17th century. 2)The Zhuge Liang's Hakchang was researched through Romance of Three Kingdoms, paintings and sculptures. 3)The images of Hakchangui wearers described in literature were investigated to understand the symbolic meanings of Hakchangui in Joseon those days. Those research efforts revealed four findings: 1)In many cases, the Hakchangui worn in Joseon in the 17th and 18th century has side slits, but no back slit. It's both sides of the center front were parallel, not overlapped. 2)Hakchangui was strange to the Joseon people until the end of the 18th century but started to permeate among those who liked classic style. 3)The aspects of Zhuge Liang were standardized in the combination of 'Yungeon, Hakchang, a feather fan and a wagon' in Romance of Three Kingdoms. 4)Zhuge Liang was considered as a symbol of wisdom and loyalty and had an image of a Taoist hermit who transcended the mundane world. The analysis of the research findings led to two following conclusions: 1)ln Joseon the Chinese Hakchang was introduced to people who had exchanges with Chinese or liked classic style in the 17th and 18th century and gradually spread by their advocates. 2)The Hakchangui must have been increasingly worn by more Joseon scholars because they started to borrow the image of Zhuge Liang driven by the popularity of Romance of the Three Kingdoms and the tendency of reinforcing Zhuge Liang's image as a loyal subject by the kings of Joseon.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.29-47
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• 2018

This study aims at looking into women's costume style seen in 18th century to 19th century, and reason out a major decoration, then the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration were analyzed. Research results are same as follows. Firstly, the style of women's costumes in the 18th and 19th century includes the Rococo style, Polonaise style, Neo-classic style, Romantic style and Bustle-style. The main decorations shown in these styles are the gather pleats drape of Fold decoration, the flat embroidery quilting of embroidery decoration, and the ribbon braid fringe button feather and fur of attachment decoration. Secondly, the analyzed results found the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration in the 18th and 19th century women's costumes. Fold decorations appeared as a voluminous property in the form of gown mantua jacket pelisse and dress. Especially, femininity and exaggeration were expressed through greatly inflated skirts. Embroidery decoration appeared as planarity by making patterns of gown mantua jacket stomacher overskirt coat dress shawl and dolman. Especially, exaggeration and extravagance were expressed through embroidered mantua surfaces with peony rose poppy primrose daffodil morning glory tulip leaf and lattice patterns in variety of colored silk threads. Attachment decorations were mixed with elements of heterogeneity added to jackets, coats, gowns, petticoats, stomachers, mantuas, pelisses, mantles, dolmans, capes, overskirts and dresses. In particular, exaggeration and extravagance strongly expressed through the decoration with white fox fur at the hemline, neckline and sleeves of cream colored silk dolman.

• 셀메드
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.2.1-2.10
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• 2024

Through big data analysis of the 'Joseonwangjosilok', this study examines the perception of ginseng among the ruling class and its utilization during the Joseon era. It aims to provide foundational data for the development of ginseng into a high-value cultural commodity. The focus of this research, the Joseonwangjosilok, comprises 1,968 volumes in 948 books, spanning a record of 518 years. Data was collected through web crawling on the website of the National Institute of Korean History, followed by frequency analysis of significant words. To assess the interest in ginseng across the reigns of 27 kings during the Joseon era, ginseng frequency records were adjusted based on years in power and the number of articles, creating an interest index for comparative rankings across reigns. Analysis revealed higher interest in ginseng during the reigns of King Jeongjo and King Yeongjo in the 18th century, King Sunjo in the 19th century, King Sejong in the 15th century, King Sukjong in the 17th century, and King Gojong in the 19th century. Examining the temporal emergence and changes in ginseng during the Joseon era, general ginseng types like insam and sansam had the highest frequency in the 15th century. It appears that Korea adeptly utilized ceremonial goods in diplomatic relations with China and Japan, meeting the demand for ginseng from their royal and aristocratic societies. Processed ginseng varieties such as hongsam and posam, along with traded and taxed ginseng, showed peak frequency in the 18th century. This coincided with increased cultivation, allowing a higher supply and fostering the development of ginseng processing technologies like hongsam.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제43권3호
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• pp.208-241
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• 2010

본 고는 조선시대 왕실의 태실에 유존하는 태실 석함(이하 태함)의 현황을 살펴보고, 제작연대를 바탕으로 형식을 분류하여 고고학적인 태함의 양식을 설정하고 그 편년을 시도한 것이다. 태함은 태실을 처음 조성할 때 매납하는 유물이지만 명문이 각자되지 않으므로 태함 자체만으로 연구하기에는 큰 어려움이 따른다. 하지만 태실 조성 시 함께 제작하는 태지석과 아기비의 명문을 찾아 살펴보고 문헌기록을 대조하여 그 제작시기를 밝힘으로 인해 태함의 제작시기도 밝혀 낼 수 있다. 먼저, 편년의 결정적 요소는 태함을 구성하는 함개와 함신 모두임을 알 수 있었으며, 또한 태함의 변화와 양식은 크게 4단계로 구분할 수 있었다. 조선 왕실의 태함의 변화는 조선 초기에는 고려시대의 양식을 이어받아 상자형으로 만들었으나, 15세기 중 후엽에 과도기를 거쳐 15세기 후엽에 반원형 함개 원통형 함신이 정착하게 된다. 그리고 16세기 후엽에는 앞 시기의 양식에서 발전하여 태함에 돌기가 부착되는 등 장식성이 가미되나, 이는 예술성보다는 기능성에 기인한 것으로 판단된다. 하지만 반원형 함개 원통형 함신이 다시 17세기 초에 재현되며, 17세기 중엽 후부터는 함개에만 돌기가 있거나 무보주의 원추형 함개 또는 절구형의 함신 등 다양하게 나타나는 과도기의 현상이 발생한다. 그러나 다시 보주가 부착된 원추형 함개라는 새로운 양식이 18세기 전엽~18세기 중엽 초에 출현하며, 이것이 다음 시기인 18세기 중엽까지 지속되나, 함신의 감실이 일단벽호형의 방형으로 바뀐다. 계속해서 18세기 중엽에는 함개는 앞 시기의 양식을 유지하나 함신은 감실이 다시 한 면이 ㄷ모양의 열쇠구멍형으로 변화한다. 하지만, 18세기 말에 와서 다시 가장 전형적인 양식인 반원형 함개 원통형 함신의 태함이 재출현하여 태함의 양식이 이 형태가 가장 정형성이 있음을 보여준다. 마지막으로 19세기 중엽에는 함개가 반원형에서 상부가 편평한 장방형의 새로운 양식이 출현하여 쇠퇴기를 맞는다. 그리고 이를 다시 양식상 크게 4단계로 구분할 수 있는데, 조선 초에는 태함이 아직 정형화되지 않아 고려시대의 양식을 이어받았으나(I단계; 1401~15C 중엽), 15세기 후엽부터는 자체적인 발전을 거듭하여 정형화되고(II단계; 1477~1641), 시기가 지나면서 다시 일부 돌기나 보주가 부착되는 등 장식성이 가미되나(III단계; 1660~1754), 결국 18세기 말에는 정형화된 양식이 재출현하다가 조선 말기인 19세기 중엽에는 간략화되어 쇠퇴과정을 겪게 되는 것(IV단계; 1790~1874)을 알 수 있었다. 그러므로 이러한 태함의 양식과 편년 결과는 문헌기록이 부족한 상태에서 앞으로 태실지에서 태함만 확인되더라도 그 조성시기와 주인공이 누구인지 밝혀내는 데 많은 도움이 되리라 생각된다.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제38권1호
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• pp.26-37
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• 2023

This study applied the text frequency method to analyze the crops prevalent during the Chosunwangjoshilrok dynasty, and categorized the results by each king. Contemporary perception of grains was observed by examining the staple crop types. Staple species were examined using the word cloud and semantic network analysis. Totally, 101,842 types of crop consumption were recorded during the Chosunwangjoshilrok period. Of these, 51,337 (50.4%) were grains, 50,407 (49.5%) were beans, and 98 (0.1%) were seeds. Rice was the most frequently consumed grain (37.1%), followed by pii (11.9%), millet (11.3%), barley (4.5%), proso (0.8%), wheat (0.6%), buckwheat (0.1%), and adlay (0.05%). Grain chronological frequency in the Choseon dynasty was determined to be 15,520 cases in the 15^th century (30.2%), 11,201 cases in the 18^th century (21.8%), 9,421 cases in the 17^th century (18.4%), 9,113 cases in the 16^th century (17.8%), and 6,082 cases in the 19^th century (11.8%). Interest in grain amongst the 27 kings of Choseon was evaluated based on the frequency of records. The 15^th century King Sejong recorded the maximum interest with 13,363 cases (13.1%), followed by King Jungjo (8,501 cases in the 18^th century; 8.4%), King Sungjong (7,776 cases in the 15^th century; 7.6%).

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.939-951
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• 2007

This paper is about bridegroom's wedding robe, danryung(團領, a kind of official uniform) which can be found in the scenes of wedding ceremonies such as Chohaeng(初行, a ceremony that the bridegroom goes to the bride's house for wedding) and Hoehonrye(回婚禮, a ceremony that celebrates the $60^{th}$ wedding anniversary) in the genre paintings from the $18^{th}$ century to the $19^{th}$ century. In the documents of the $18^{th}$ and the $19^{th}$ centuries containing the wedding information of that period, danryung was described in various red tones ranging from Ja(紫, purple), Gang(絳 crimson), to Yeonhong(軟紅, pale pink). Similarly, red danryung(紅團領) was seen most frequently at the Chohaeng sights of the genre paintings. On the other hand, it was often depicted that the bridegrooms put on various colored danryungs at Hoehonrye. This was because bridegrooms at Hoehonrye wore their full dress according to their official ranks. In the genre paintings of the 18th century, all bridegrooms wore simple danryungs without hungbae(胸背, official insignia panel) except those in Hoehonrye painting where officials used hungbae. On the contrary, hungbae was discovered in the $19^{th}$ century Chohaeng paintings even though it was not precisely painted. This change of the bridegroom's danryung with hungbae attached was related to that of the official uniform system itself, in which black danryung with hungbae was exclusively used for officials. Afterwards it became the basis of the blue danryung of the present day.

• 비교문화연구
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• 제36권
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• pp.97-122
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• 2014

During the Edo-period [江戶時代 1603-1867], Japan accepted the modern western science and culture while trading with Holland since 1609, and also through the influx of optical instruments in the $18^{th}$ century the culture of viewing pictures began to be developed. Especially, the peep-boxes and their pictures had been imported from China and Holland since the mid 1750s when they were flourished. The peep-box was rapidly and widely spread. Soon after, the peep-boxes and pictures had begun to be produced in Japan (megane [眼鏡] and megane-e [眼鏡繪]) since 1770s when the early visual culture settled down in Kyoto and Tokyo etc. The visual culture developed with the peep-box contains two remarkable factors in the cultural history of the $18^{th}$ century Japan. First, the peep-boxes became the popular device of visual entertainment, and opened the first phase of the modern visual culture before the advent of photography and cinema in the mid and end of the $19^{th}$ century. Secondly, the peep-box played a role of an educative media as a 'window to the unknown world' in the $18^{th}$ century Japan, by showing various pictures of many European cities. Through the peep-box pictures the 'western images' were spread and knowledges of Japanese about the west increased, although they were recognized just as 'Holland's images' without differentiation in each country.

• Communications for Statistical Applications and Methods
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.559-570
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• 2011

1650년대에 파스칼과 페르마가 주고 받은 편지에서 시작된 확률 연구가 하위헌스, 베르누이, 라플라스 등의 연구로 이어지는 과정에서 당시의 법률적인 사고가 어떤 역할을 하였는지 살펴보았다. 이 연구에서 살펴 본 바에 따르면 초기 확률 연구에서 '기댓값'과 '확률'이라는 새로운 용어와 개념이 생기는 데에는 '공정한 거래', '확실성의 정도'와 같은 법률적인 사고가 큰 역할을 하였던 한편, 19세기 이후 센서스를 비롯한 통계조사가 활발해지면서 거꾸로 통계가 사회적, 법률적 사고방식에 영향을 미치기도 하였다.

• 복식
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• 제52권8호
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• pp.123-135
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• 2002

The purposes of this study were to observe the influences of Salon culture on fashion, and to understand of 17th-l8th century's costume from a different point of view. The literatures about Salons and costume in 17th-l8th century were considered for this study Salon culture had influenced on women's and men's fashion from 17th 18th century as results. The influences of salon culture on fashion were as follows; At first, it caused radical feminism for women's dress. Women for this period chose their dress to maximize their breast and tight their waist radically to express their beauty. Women were realized as sexual being for the period, then, this caused feminism. The second influence was the Andorgynous of men's dress. Men maximized beautiful decoration, body line on their dress and showed feminine dress style. which caused Andorgynous of men's dress as men and women mutually created new beauty effect. Salon had influences on the birth of new feminine culture and fashion, supplying individual self-control and freedom to women not as aesthetic objects.