• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.20
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• pp.63-72
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• 1993

The concept of style provides a useful structure in history of Art. In aspect of formative art, dress and art work are alike, so style is a useful concept in the historical methodology on dress. The main purpose of this study was to apply the art criticism to the historical methodology on dress. For this purpose, documentary studies about style as a tool of historical research were proceeded. The results were as follows : 1. The concept of style consists of the external form and the internal meaning as double roots. Therefore, it's indispensable that the two asp-ects of style, form and meaning, must to be harmonized to describe the historical phenomena in dress. 2. The change pattern of style in dress is not always predeterminate and regular according to the cyclical theory. From the alternative point of view, the change pattern of style could be to describe the continuous theory proposed by kroeber, Brodsky. The whole change of style is considered "liked solution" by this theory.is theory.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.100-114
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• 2004

This is a basic study for developing educational dress forms of male adults' pattern making. While examining the reality of each university's men's wear education and the production of male dress forms, this paper found the following findings: 1. Survey of Dress Forms Used by Men's Apparel Companies The men's apparel companies had dissatisfaction with domestic dress forms but satisfaction with foreign-made ones. In general, among the unsatisfied items were wide discrepancy in male Korean body sizes, unfitting domestic somatotypes, lacking dress forms for those in the 20s, and no diverse forms per body type. To be specific, unsuitable hip and shoulder parts as well as weak fixing parts were pointed out. Every apparel companies found it necessary to develop male dress forms based on Korean male adults. When they are developed for sale, they will be highly utilized in the order of fitting, pattern making, male design research, and somatotype research. 2. Survey of Education for Men's Wear in Fashion Dept. of University 61.54% of the investigated universities had some teaching as far as men's wear were concerned. Application areas of male dress forms were such as pattern making (53.85%), fitting (41.38%), and design research (5.77%). As to the degrees of utilization, 73.08% predicted them high.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.30-46
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• 2018

The purpose of the study was to suggest certain measurements of the skirt block pattern drafting process for the Korean female fashion models, with the aim to improve its fit. For this purpose, the study carried out an analysis of the lower body features of a dress form developed for the study. This form was representative of Korean female fashion models' body features. The study performed a cross-sectional analysis at waist and hip levels and measured the angles from the frontal and lateral silhouettes of the dress forms. The comparisons of the skirt block patterns developed through draping by the use of 2 types of the dress forms developed and existed and through drafting according to the current patternmaking method have led to noticeable findings in terms of implementation of the skirt block drafting process for the Korean female fashion models. The results of the study are as follows: (1) the vertical lengths between the levels at the front waist point and the side waist point in the patterns are 0.7cm; (2) the vertical length between the levels at the front waist point and the back waist point in the back panel is 0.7cm; (3) the horizontal lengths between the perpendicular line from the side hip point and the side waist point in patterns are within a range of 2.0 to 2.2cm; (4) the horizontal length between the original and the adjusted back waist points moved into the waist line, in a range of 0.0 to 1.0cm, differs whether the center back line would be folded or sewn.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.303-312
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• 2005

The purpose of this research is to analyze the lower part of dress forms with different sectional rotation-angles ($e.g.\;9^{\circ},\;15^{\circ},\;30^{\circ},\;45^{\circ}$) using three-dimensional measurement system and to investigate measurement properties for dress making. The dress forms used in this experiment were size 8 and six types: four from Korea and two from Japan. The instrument and tools for three-dimensional measurement was Whole Body 3D scanner (Exyma-WBS2H). The analysis program used in this experiment was Rapid Form 2004 PP1 (INUS technology, Inc, Korea). The measurement of dress forms was done three times with different sectional rotation-angles and its data were analyzed using SPSS WIN 10.0 Package. The following results were obtained: 1. With mean and standard deviation of each measured part, it was found out that the dress forms from two countries were different in size per each part. For example, the Japanese one was relatively large in middle hip and hip, compared to the Korean one. 2. The 3D analysis of the sectional rotation-angles revealed some differences between the two dress forms in sectional length per each part. 3. With cluster analysis results, it was found that there were definite differences among measurements per each part, especially in $30^{\circ}\;and\;45^{\circ}$ sections. 4. The proportion of the dress forms showed significant differences in the curvature between center and side section of the lower parts. In addition, the shapes on the horizontal section map of the four levels (waist, middle hip, hip, and bottom) were analyzed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.3 s.151
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• pp.378-385
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• 2006

To release fashion trends in an efficient way, many of the apparel business and fashion educational institutes in land adopt fashion shows employing fashion models. Modeling rather than flat pattern making realizes the majority of the complicated design works for the fashion shows. However, for the different measurements between the dress form and the real human model, problems often occur during the modeling and fitting processes. Researches on the standard dress form development representing professional fashion models' features are therefore in urgent need to enable the related apparel business and fashion institutes to make appropriate use of the dress form in their jobs. The study has been conducted as a preliminary study using a questionnaire method ultimately to develop the female dress form. A questionnaire in the research aimed at an investigation into the actual conditions of and satisfaction with the usage and the body measurements of existed dress forms. Approximately 30 fashion-related educational institutes and 10 apparel companies responded to the survey. Data derived from the survey was analyzed using SPSS version 10.1, the statistics tool. The results throughout the research were discussed in terms of largely three categories that are; (1) the general conditions of the usage of the dress form to prepare fashion shows: e.g. the frequency of holding the fashion show in an annual term, the proportion of professional and amateur models employed for the fashion show, the methods to construct garments, types and number of dress forms utilized and etc.; (2) factors considered to purchase the dress form e.g. its functionality, shapes, sizes, duration, price, A/S condition and etc.; and(3) satisfaction with the similarity between the dress form and the human body in the relation to the body measurements. Measurements in length wise, front and back waist lengths, neck to bust point on the dress forms were apparently differed from the ones of the actual body. In particular, differed torso length measurements cause the problem to have to alter the whole silhouette, consequently, the resultant patterns as well. In girth measurements, in order of bust and waist girths, the satisfaction was low.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.44-53
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to analyze dress meanings painted by elementary school girl. As in language, the dress is the symbol and form of non-verval communicator its wearer by means of the mentalistic semantics. Also it is to analyze meanings of dress by applying the semantics of Geoffrey Leech. The followings are the findings of the analysis 1. The conceptual are the findings of the analysis 2. The social meaning is indicating the feminine image. 3. The offective meaning is indicating the aesthetic value.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.5
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• pp.89-105
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• 2001

This study on Jeung San Kyo, one of Korea's new religions, considered the name, kind, form, color and the thoughts of ritual dress which is involved in 15 religious blanches acting currently according to books and the actual research. The following is below. 1 Each names of ritual dresses called rigious branches are Bob Bok(법복), Doh Bok(도복), Yeah Bok(예복) and Jea Bok(제복). 2 In most religious blanches, ritual dress is the Korean cloths which Poh is wear above and Kwan is put on, and the form of Poh(포) is the similar with Durumagi(두루마기), Danryungpoh(단령포), Jungchimak(중치막), Jikryungpoh(직령포) etc, but not the form of Git, Moo and Yiohmim. Kwanmoh is named Chill-Chung-Kwan(칠층관), Yiun-Hwa-Kwan(연화관), Yiun-Kwan(연관), In-Hwa-Kwan(인화관), Tong-Chon-Kwan(통천관) etc. 3. In most religious orders but Dae Suun Jin Li Hueay(대순진리회), Jeung San Doe Jang(증산도장), Colors are used, white, lightblue, and yellow is used in Jeung San Pop Jong Kyo(증산법종교), Dong Doe Pop Jong Gyum Gang Doe(동도법 종금강도). White color means the mind of a people tradition, and light blue expresses an Oriental nation, namely, “Korea”, and is the color representing Jeung San Kyo, and yellow shows the central religion in the future. 4. Jeung San Kyo ceremony fashion reflects the ideologies of the principal role, the Um and Yang-five elements, and, nationalism according to form, color.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.38-51
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• 1999

The purpose of this study finds that (1) history of the First birthday rite(첫돌 의례) and (2) changing process of the First birthday\`s dress and ornaments(첫돌 복식). The results of this study are as follows. The history of the first birthday rite has been continued vary long years in Korea, but it\`s origin is not clearness. The purpose and form of the first birthday rite are vary similarity in China and Korea. The rate of infant mortality was regarded that an absolute element of the first birthday rite. Making process of the first birthday\`s dress and ornaments was not definite, The adoption of that\`s form and elements act on affect local·homely·individual situation. First birthday\`s dress and ornaments was changed by changing process and convert of recognition about First birthday rite. It shows that the change of rites clothing contacted with changing process of rites.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.19
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• pp.83-103
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• 1992

This thesis researched the ritual dress of Korean new religions such as Suungyo, Mirubulgyo, Taejonggyo and WonBuddhism, According to kind, color, cloth and shape this thesis analyzed the ritual dress of them on the basis of its literatures. I. The results of the ritual dress of them through its literatures are as follows: 1. In case of Suungyo, there are Songwansonbok, Togwandobok, Pulmogwan, Ch'onui, Chap'ae , Yukhwangang, Pobdae, Hakp'yo and Kyonjang in its kind. In its color there are Huk, Cha, Hoe, Chahwang, Hong, Paek, Hwang, ROk, and Nam. Chemical fiber with one layer is used in its cloth. Its shape is made by a comprise between the feature of Korean dress, chuui and that of the existing dress of Confucianim, Buddhism and Taoism. 2. In case of Mirukbulgyo, Inhwag-wan, Chongbok, P'oui, Tae, Moson, Yomju and tanju are systematized in its kind. In its color there are Paek, Huk, ch'ong,Chok, Ok and Rok, Kongdan and chemical fiber with one layer are used in its cloth. Its shape has a symbolic form of Yu'Pul and son based upon Korean dress, Chuui. In its symbol Inhwagwan symbolized Confucianism and Chongbok Taoism and P'oui Buddhism. 3. In case of Taejonggyo, there are Chusabok, Sjhobok, Yewonbok, Chusamo, Yewonmo, Tae and Hwa in its kind. In its color there are Paek(main one), Nam, Huk, Chaju, Chok, Hwang and Hoe. Kongdan with both sides is elaborately used in its cloth. Its shape thken from Korean dress means the succession of the national spirit of the white-clad folk. 4. In case of won Buddhism, there are kybok and Pobrak in its kind. In its color there are Paek, Huk and Hoe---especially, both Hwangt'o and Hwang are used in Pobrak, Anyone can use cloth at his will. In its shape Kyoblk for man is Yangbok and Kyobok for woman is Tongch'ima and Chogori, a style of Korean dress. Pobrak is a form Tanryong worm with Rakja.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.13-25
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the concept and characteristics of 'grotesque,' examine the aesthetic characteristics of grotesque reflected in arts and dress, and modern fashion. The findings are as follows: 1) Grotesque indicates unnatural, unpleasant, and exaggerated that it upsets or shocks person. The characteristics of grotesque include terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust. 2) The grotesque art represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by disordered form, nonnatural things, evil world, unorthodox methods, unrealistic image, strange dreamland. 3) The grotesque dress represented terror, abnormality, unreality, amusement, disgust by exaggerated silhouette, exaggerated adornment, excessive decoration, incroyables, using exaggerated silhouette, crinoline silhouette, bustle silhouette, surrealist style, extraordinary materials, glam rock style, unique silhouette, cyber look. 3) Terror was implied in the punk look suits of Junya Watanabe, and exaggerated outers of Viktor & Rolf. Abnormality was shown in the atypical suit of John Galliano, Junya Watanabe's dress decorated with the extreme ruff, Thom Browne's suit of abnormal proportion. Unreality was reflected in the architectural dress of Gareth Pugh, Mermaid dress of Giles, the surreal suit of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. Amusement was represented in the amusing suit of Gareth Pugh, John Galliano's dress of sexual perversion. Disgust was reflected in the decadent dress of Thierry Mugler, Undercove's suit, and the ensemble of shocking details.