• 복식
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• 제63권5호
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• pp.132-150
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to examine misnomers about King Heungdeok's "Prohibition of Clothing" by comparing the writings of Jeongdukbon [正德本] and Juzabon [鑄字本], which were different versions of the original texts of "Samguksagi [三國史記]", with 11 related books written between 1948 and 2012. In addition, this study is reconsidered the terms about several clothes as well as the values of fabrics. The study has come up with the following conclusions. 1. We suggested the correction about a misnomer in the 11 books and the misnomers for fabric items appeared most frequently. The records of Jeongdukbon about some of the items were different from ones of Juzabon, especially regarding noble woman's sash were written according to the record of Juzabon in most of the related books. However, when the commonplace woman's sash was taken into consideration, we could suppose that the record of Jeongdukbon was more reliable. 2. We examined the terms for Yodae [腰帶] and Yoban. It can be inferred from the original texts that the Yodae were different in material and function compared to the Dae [帶]. In other words, the wearing position of male's metal Yodae was the waist, whereas the females wore their Dae made of fabrics on their chest. An example of this can be seen from the female clay images of Tomb Yonggang-dong [龍江洞]. Moreover, female's Yo and Ban were distinct items on the basis of documents. For this reason, we suggested that Yodae and Yoban should be separated and written in books. 3. We suggested that Ju [紬, silk tabby] might be valuable according to an result of analysis about the value of recorded fabrics. Besides, Po [布, hempcloth] presumably were used as higher quality fabric than Myeonju [綿紬, silk tabby] on some items because Po was graded on the density by each class.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.181-202
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• 1998

When the study the costumes of Silla Dynasty, the only well-founded data is shown in the prohibition that is promulgated in the period of King Hungduk. In the prohibition, the social limitation according to the Silla Golpum system is closely described, now it is interesting researchers very much. Any times the promulgation of a ordinance has a proper reason. The ordinance of the period of King Hungduk also has no exceptions. It made a reason clear in the introduction - inaccordance with the social position, the list of articles is used with different, in spite of the strict regulation, the distinction of costumes was in disorder because of the trend of luxury and os we have to make right according to law. Some historian think that the prohibition assumes the character of an political innovation. The prohibition contains an social signification, the items of prohibition did not enumerate simply prohibiton items. Through away of research to analyze the hidden meaning contained in the prohibition, we can see the social phenomenon of Silla Dynasty. And compared with the type of clothing, the kinds of clothing mentioned in prohibiton have changed very much. I believe that we can find out political and social change in prohibition.

• 복식
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• 제51권1호
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• pp.21-32
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• 2001

Gauze is very light and thin. Their warps are entangled and their structure is loose. It is natural that they are easier to decay than other silk fabrics through physiochemical processes over a long period of time. Nonetheless quite many remains of Gauze fabrics can be found in China or Japan as well as in Korea. Various Gauze was used in costumes since the era of the Three Kingdoms and their weaving techniques, such as using gold threads with silk-fabrics, was developed in Koryo dynasty era, which made it possible to create more magnificent gauze fabrics in Korea. Relatively a lot of Gauze fabrics are remained in Korea. Based on these corroborative relics, this thesis analyzes the characteristics of gauze fabrics possesed in Korea and categorizes the gauze fabrics described in the Decrees on Costume Restraint of the King Hungduk. This also compares them with the present gauze in other countries. The types of gauze fabrics are generally divided into desined gauze, and non-designed gauze, the one without pattern. There ar a lot of desined gauze, such as dyeing gauze, brocade gauze, embroidery with gauze ground, patterned gauze with gauze ground etc. which were found in Korea and also in China and Japan. Non-designed gauze is divided into 2-end complex gauze, 3-end complex gauze, 4-end complex gauze, etc depending on the number of crossing warps. All of the non-designed gauze of Koryo dynasty found in Korea was 4-end complex gauze fabrics. These non-designed gauze fabrics were also found in Japan and China.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제53권1호
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• pp.88-105
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• 2020

이 글에서는 신라 황복사지(皇福寺址) 동편 폐고분지(廢古墳址)의 성격에 대한 기존의 제설(諸說)을 검토하고 최근 실시된 발굴조사 결과를 종합하여 고고학적인 접근을 시도해 보았다. 고찰 결과 다음과 같은 연구 성과를 얻을 수 있었다. 첫째, 신라 황복사지 동편 논 경작지 지면에 노출되어 있었던 원형의 거석(巨石)들은 발굴조사 결과 모두 전면(前面)이 호형(弧形)으로 가공된 왕릉(王陵)의 호석(護石)이었다. 이 왕릉의 호석들은 대부분 후대 경작으로 인해 원위치에서 이탈되어 있었고, 일부는 통일신라시대에 조성된 건물의 담장이나 기단 등의 건축부재로 재활용된 상태였다. 이러한 사실은 당시 신라의 계세관념(繼世觀念)과 골품체제(骨品體制) 및 왕실의 권위를 감안할 때 인위적으로 능묘(陵墓)를 파괴한 후의 상황은 아닐 것이다. 따라서 이 왕릉의 석재는 당시 왕의 능원(陵園)이 조영되던 중 어떠한 이유로 인해 미처 완성되지 못하고 방치되어 오다가 후대에 자연스럽게 건물지의 부재로 재활용되었을 것으로 추정된다. 둘째, 구황동(九黃洞)왕릉지 탱석(撑石)의 규모와 암질(岩質)을 비교·분석한 결과 능지탑지(陵只塔址)에 복원되어 있는 십이지신상(十二支神像) 탱석들과 동일한 왕릉의 호석이라는 점이 확인되었다. 이로 인해 황복사지 십이지신상 호석은 또 다른 왕릉의 호석이라는 점이 확인된 것이다. 따라서 그동안 황복사지 십이지신상 호석이 구황동왕릉지에서 옮겨왔을 것이라는 일반적인 학계의 견해는 수정이 불가피하게 되었다. 셋째, 호석의 구조와 능묘 형식으로 본 구황동왕릉지의 피장자(被葬者)는 흥덕왕보다는 늦고, 전(傳)경덕왕릉의 피장자와는 비슷하며, 전(傳)김유신묘의 피장자보다는 앞선 시기의 왕 중에서 찾아진다. 또한 능지탑지로 옮겨진 십이지신상 탱석의 미술사적 형식을 감안해 보더라도 구황동왕릉지의 피장자는 9세기대의 신라 하대 왕 중에서 비정되는 것이 합리적일 것으로 생각된다.

• 복식
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• 제52권2호
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• pp.103-113
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• 2002

Heungdukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance(834A.D.) is a very important written historical record because it reveals Tongil Shills's(統一新羅) costume. But among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heundukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance, classification of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) is not clear. This study focuses on the categorization of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣). Upper garments included among costume ordinance were Pyooe(表衣), Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣), Pyooe(表衣) and aeoe(內衣) were unisex, while Danoe(短衣) was worn only by women excluding the lower class. Pyooe(表衣) is applicable to Po(袍), Naeoe(內衣) is aplicable to Yu(유). Shilla'(新羅) upper garments appearing in visual records are as follows: -With the exception of Pyooe(表衣), the length of men's upper garments were between hip and knee length. These upper garments featured V-neck and round neck styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side. -Again excluding Pyooe(表衣), women's upper garments were similar to men's upper garments having V-neck and round necklines. We know this to be true from the relics found during the excavations of Hwangsungdong and Yonggangdong, as well as from the women in the stone reliefs of Sangju. Although we know the shape of necklines. the length of upper garments remained a mystery because women of that tome tucked in their upper garments into the skirts and/or wore an over garment. However a clay doll found around Bulguksa(佛國寺) wearing a knee length garment with V-neck. The upper garment was opened in the front and was worn over another garment with same length and round neckline. At that time, The upper garments found in China and Japan. were not much different than those found in Shilla (新羅). They also included garments that were waist length, had peach-shaped necklines, or were worn over head. Shilla's(新羅) traditional upper garment was between hip and knee length, but with the introduction and influence of Chinese costume. upper garments with a length coming down to the high waist line began to appear. In addition to Chinese influence, because Shilla's(新羅) women wore the upper garment first and then the lower garment, a long upper garment was not necessary. These shorter upper garments came to be known as 'Danoe(短衣)'When we perceive clothing. we look at silhouette first and then the details. Silhouette is much determined by length and neckline or the front of the garment determines the details, So we need to attention to the basis of ancient dress classifications. These classifications were according to first length [Po(袍), Yu(유)] and then neckline [Danryoung(團領), Jingryoung(首領)]. As a result. Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) are classified by the length. The length (內衣) was between hip and knee length while Daneoe(短衣) was waist length. Danoe(短衣) was worn by putting the bottom of it inside skirt naeoe(內衣) was worn over a skirt or plant. But both had V-neck and round neck styles, and styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제52권2호
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• pp.254-267
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• 2019

협힐(��纈)은 직물을 두 개 또는 그 이상의 조각한 목판 사이에 끼워 넣은 후 염색하여 무늬를 표현하는 방염(防染) 기법이다. 통일신라 흥덕왕 9년 복식금제(服飾禁制)에는 육두품녀(六頭品女)와 오두품녀(五頭品女)의 여러 가지 복식 품종에 협힐 사용을 금한다는 기록이 있다. 이것으로 미루어보아 협힐 직물이 당시 널리 사용되었으며 협힐 기법도 통일신라시대 또는 그 이전에 완성되었음을 추측할 수 있다. 그러나 문헌 자료에는 용어만이 언급되었을 뿐 염색 기법이나 정의에 대한 내용은 확인되지 않고 유물도 고려시대의 것만 극히 소량 남아 있어 협힐의 유형이나 특징을 알 수 없다. 공예 기술은 각 나라마다 정치 경제 사회 문화 등의 요인에 의해 변화하며 주변국과의 교류를 통해 발전한다. 따라서 본 논문은 주변국인 중국과 일본의 문헌 및 유물을 조사 분석하여 협힐 유형과 특징을 살펴보았다. 이를 통해 협힐은 국가별 특징보다 무늬를 나타낼 때 사용하는 색의 가짓수에 따라 단색(單色)과 다색(多色)으로 나누어지며, 무늬 구조에 따라 단독(單獨) 좌우대칭(左右對稱) 상하좌우대칭(上下左右對稱)으로 분류되는 것을 알 수 있었다. 또한 중국과 일본에서 전승 및 재현되고 있는 염색 기법의 사례를 연구한 결과 직물에 무늬가 잘 드러나도록 하기 위해서는 사용하는 색의 가짓수와 무늬의 특징에 맞추어 협힐판을 양각(陽刻) 투각(透刻) 음각(陰刻)으로 각각 다르게 조각하여야 하는 것을 확인하였다. 우리나라에서 무늬와 색이 온전히 남아 있는 유일한 유물인 1302년 아미타불복장 소화문협힐견을 실험 대상으로 삼고 염색 기법 사례 연구에서 얻어진 기초자료를 근거로 실증적 실험을 통해 협힐 기법을 재현하였다. 본 논문은 추후 계속 연구할 협힐 기법 재현에 활용될 기초자료를 구축하고, 전승되고 있지 않는 협힐 기법의 재현을 시도하여 기법의 특징을 확인한 것에 의의를 두고자 한다. 그리고 현대적인 무늬 염색 기법과 접목시켜 한국적 무늬 염색의 세계를 넓히며 재창조하는 데 보탬이 되길 기대한다.