• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.221-230
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• 2007

This research was focused on the changes of layered techniques in Hussein Chalayan's collections. For this purpose, the layered techniques in 134 works from Chalayan's collections, 97S/S to 06S/S, which were obtained from fashion magazines and fashion internet site, were analyzed and classified into 15 groups. Layered techniques in his works apparently expressed his philosophy about deconstruction. Multilayered feeling was given through using various techniques such as one layer clothing which was showed like multi-layered clothing. Others were multi-layer clothing which felt like one layer, breaking the stereotyped line of clothing into atypical construction and using various materials or constructive lines which made the optical feeling like one layer or multi-layer clothing, and so on. These layered techniques in Chalayan's collections were differentiated into several categories, such as techniques which were revealed in every collections, techniques which were differentiated from one another collections, techniques which were continuously showed through three collections for connection with each collection, techniques which were used only for Spring/Summer season, and techniques which were uniquely showed in early collection or recent collections.

• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.55-67
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• 2013

The root of cultural and artistic diversity of modern society goes hand in hand with the appearance of new art concepts that started during the social and cultural turmoil. These concepts crossed the boundaries of traditional and universal aesthetic concepts and value criteria. Since there is a close relationship between the fashion industry and the cultural flow of its times, the purpose of this study is to investigate the influences and applications of conceptual art, which became one of the big frameworks of contemporary art on fashion. The study thus sets out to develop and analyze the collections of Hussein Chalayan and Martin Margiela, who were fashion designers that pursued conceptual and ideal values, from the perspective of conceptual art. The goal was to examine the conceptual thoughts they sought after, and to understand their expressive determinations that they pursued conceptually as well as the superficial formativeness of their works. The characteristics according to the expressive methods and conceptual intentions of conceptual art that specified concepts and ideas were as follows: readymade symbolized objects, expanded intervention, data form from process of changing and implementation, and language as visual metaphors. Then those characteristics of conceptual art were used in this study to analyze the collections of Chalayan and Margiela. As a result, both designers applied and mixed many characteristics of the expressive methods of conceptual art. In modern society, art and fashion share a cultural identity and it can be said that it is an accurate reflection of the time. They are not separate genres. Just like the unique flow of modern society that creates new concepts through mixture and infusion of different disciplines, fashion is included in the domain of art. In addition, understanding and studying other disciplines can make a huge contribution to the growth and development of fashion.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.71-82
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• 2000

The purpose of this thesis is how to find the way of activating Korean fashion industry, by reviewing the accomplishments of British young designers, Hussein Chalayan, who are contributors to the present peak activities of British fashion. Some results come over this depressive state of Korean fashion might be proposed. Firstly, Korean government should try to direct the Korean fashion associated group to make the unified and effective results in an organized way. Secondly, Korean fashion industries and university-level fashion school should have more intimate relationship and be closely communicated with each other. Also the fashion school should watch their curriculum. and change it gradually to the up-todate one. Thirdly, the Korean new generation designers should do effort to have the highest tailoring technique and artistic good sense. Finally, the designer should have broad range of knowledge for their design. In conclusion, the government, university-level fashion schools, fashion industries and fashion designers should be positively changed and cooperated to do the best and activate Korean fashion.

• 복식
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• 제59권1호
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• pp.77-93
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze on the fashion collection of Hussein Chalayan who has changed the concept of fashion design in the 21st century and has pioneered in the new vision of fashion. This study will give a new perspective and perception of fashion as a conceptual and ideological art. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, Hussein Chalayan's multicultural ideas and interdisciplinary approaches which based in national speciality are the unique elements in his works. Second, Hussein Chalayan intends to present his works as an expression of conception. He has expressed the clothes which speaks the form of nature, symbolizes the combination of culture, visualizes time and space and investigates the existence of human being. Third, Hussein Chalayan has asked an endless question about existence of the human being. Furthermore, He has put a question about the relationship between time, space, history, nature and the human being. His trial to visualize the metaphysical conception of 'ego' and 'self' through his works of art makes him as the designer who represents the 21st century. Forth, Hussein Chalayan pursues the communication between the human being and the world. His works is made for human being and makes the human life as valuable thing. Because the clothes is completed when the human wears it, it can not exist without the relationship of human being. Fifth, Hussein Chalayan makes a various attempt to combine with different artistic field. Fashion has developed to new direction with diverse trial and combination beyond fashion field and this has to be a direction in the 21st century fashion. Fashion is not just making clothes, but accepting and delivering the history and culture, expressing and communicating empathy, and combining the different fields harmoniously.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.27-38
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• 2008

In the 21st century, the development of technology overturned the paradigm of the entire society and culture, and the term 'high-tech' became generally accepted around the world by the momentous advances of technology. The purpose of this study is to define the concept of high-tech fashion by clarifying the characteristics of high-tech fashion, and to propose the proper approach toward the coming fashion. Hussein Chalayan shows the experimental and futuristic designs based on the cultural context of architecture and sculpture. Moreover, the scope of this study has been limited into Hussein Chalayan's recent works after the year 2000 up to 2007. High-tech architecture has been, in some ways, a response to pow technology a new aesthetic in contrast with standard modern architecture. High-tech architecture aimed to achieve a new industrial aesthetic, spurred on by the renewed faith in the progression of technology. However, no matter how prominent the industrial look appeared, the functional element of modern architecture has been very much retained. The characteristics of high-tech architecture that had been extracted by analyzing the antecedent studies were: technocism, transformability, and dynamism. Furthermore, the characteristics of high-tech fashion has been explained based on the characteristics of high-tech architecture. First, technocism is expressed either by the new technologized materials, and advanced digital technology. Second, transformability is expressed in the transformable clothing, which performs various functions. Third, dynamism is displayed in dynamic forms influenced by the technology of engineering. High-tech will be the dominant influence in fashion, and the designers will be enamored with the technologies of the new millenium. Architecture and fashion share the characteristics of high-tech, and their common cultural features is confirmed again.