• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.228-237
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• 2015

Field observations were conducted to collect hydrodynamic and morphological data, which are needed to account for mechanisms of bathymetry changes caused by physical forcings, in Haeundae beach. In order to quantitatively describe characteristics of wave transformations and current patterns in space in winter and summer, in-situ sensors for measuring waves and current profiles were installed at three locations in the cross-shore direction and also three locations in the along-shore direction. As for the results of wave measurements, waves with main direction from the east dominate in winter while waves are incident from the S and the ESE in summer. Analysis of current data reveals that currents over the study domain are considerably influenced by a pattern of tidal motions, thereby, mainly oscillating in the direction of tidal currents, i.e., east-west directions, in both winter and summer. Currents tend to be influenced by local bathymetry in the shallow water region, with the direction changed along the depth contours and the magnitude reduced as they approach the shoreline. The results analysed from the hydrodynamic data through this study can be further combined with the morphological and bathymetry data, leading to the quantification of seasonal sediment transport rates and sand budget changes.

• Korean Journal of Remote Sensing
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.95-100
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• 2012

Big swell is often generated offshore and damages the coasts after travelling long distance. In order to prevent coastal damages, wave measurements should be performed offshore as well as coastal waters around Korea. However, in-situ wave measurements are difficult because of high expense of instruments and high risk of operation. Satellite wave measurements using altimeter make it possible to get wave information from the sea difficult to execute field measurements such as the center of the East Sea or exclusive territorial waters. In order to use wave information from the satellite altimeter, it is important to verify altimeter wave data with in-situ data. This paper examines significant wave height data observed by ENVISAT altimeter by comparing wave data observed at Ieodo station.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2007.05a
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• pp.586-591
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• 2007

최근 몇 년간 속초해역에서 발생한 이상고파의 특성을 현장관측 자료를 분석하고 수치모형실험 결과와 비교하여 검토하였다. 2004년 이후의 현장 관측을 통해 최소한 4회 이상 파고 5.0 m를 초과하는 이상고파가 발생하였다. 특히 2006년 10월 23일 11시에는 유의파고 9.69 m에 이르는 매우 큰 파가 관측되었다. 한편 천해역 파랑추산모형 SWAN을 사용하여 속초해역의 50년 및 100년빈도 심해설계파로부터 천해설계파를 산정하여 이상고파 관측 결과와 비교하였다. 수치모형실험에 의한 50년빈도 천해설계파의 최대치는 파향이 ESE 방향일 때 4.9 m에 지나지 않아서 관측된 이상고파의 파고에 비해 현저하게 작았다. 따라서 통상적으로 이루어지고 있는 수치모형을 이용한 천해설계파 산정만으로는 최근 몇 년간 수 차례 관측된 동해안에서의 이상고파를 적절하게 모의할 수 없으며 이에 대한 개선방안이 마련되어야 할 필요성이 있다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.297-301
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• 2008

On-site measurement of ship wave has been carried out in the vicinity of Mokpo inner harbour. The wave data were collected and logged 5Hz by the ultrasonic instrument for 12hour on May 17, 2006. The number of data was 216,000 and the maximum wave height was 81.41cm in normal weather condition. It was found that the wave conditions in this water area are predominantly affected by the ship-generated waved under normal condition. By comparing with the wind-generated waves in the open region which were irregular but with dominant directional characteristics, the existing harbor wave field was much more complex.

• Proceedings of KOSOMES biannual meeting
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• 2007.11a
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• pp.29-33
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• 2007

On-site measurement of ship wave has been carried out in the vicinity of Mokpo inner harbour. The wave data were collected and logged 5Hz by the ultrasonic instrument during 12hour May 17th 2006. The number of data is 216,000 and the maxinum wave heght is 81.41cm in normal weather condition It is found that the wave conditions in this water area are predominantly affected by the ship-generated waved under normal condition By comparing with the wind-generated waves in the open region which are irregular but with dominant directional characteristics, the existing harbor wave field is much more complex.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.119-125
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• 2008

The aim of this study was to determine the characteristics of wave transformation in the shallow water of the Nakdong River estuary due to variations in air pressure, air temperature, wind speed, and wind direction. We analyzed the correlation between weather factors and wind waves in offshore regions near Geoje Island and the Nakdong River estuary in April and May 2007. The weather and wind wave data were obtained from the automatic ocean observation buoy near Geoje Island operated by the Korean Meteorological Administration (KMA). For the estuary region, the wind wave information was the result of field observations, and weather data were obtained from the Busan Meteorological Station. Field observations of water waves in April and May showed that the maximum wave height decreased by about 2.2 m. M oreover, wave height decreased significantly by about 1.3 m due to the reduction in wave energy caused by the water waves propagating from Geoje buoy to the Nakdong River estuary. We conclude that offshore or wind waves coming into the Nakdong River estuary showed considerable height variation due to the prevailing weather conditions, especially wind speed and direction. In particular, headwinds tended to decrease the wave size in inverse proportion to the wind speed.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.654-659
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• 2018

In this study, continuous long-term observation is implemented with an ocean radar. Ocean radar conducts remote observation (combined) with ground-based radars, which enable a series of simultaneous observations of an extensive range of the coast with high frequency. An ocean radar for continuous long-term observation is operated at Samcheok on the east coast of Korea. Samcheok experienced tsunami damage in recent years and is the location of a nuclear power plant. In order to examine the reliability of the ocean radar, a pressure-type wave gauge, ultrasonic wave gauge, and ocean buoy are installed for the purpose of data comparison and verification. The ocean radar used in this study is an array-type HF-RADAR named WERA (WavE RAdar). The analysis of the data obtained from continuous long-term observations showed that the radar observations were in agreement with more than 90% of the wave data collected within a 25 km range from the center of two sites. Less than 1% of the entire observation data was unmeasured by the time series analysis. As a result of comparing the radar data with the direct observations made by the wave gauge, it was inferred that the RMS deviation is less than 20cm and the correlation coefficient was in the range of 0.84 ~ 0.87. Moreover, supported by such observations, a comprehensive monitoring system is being developed to provide the public with real-time reports on waves and currents via the internet.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.146-150
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• 1996

The waves are most important dynamical factors for the analyses of structural stability and topographical changes on coastal engineering field. However, wind-generated waves are very irregular in shape and transformed through refraction, diffraction and shoaling when they propagate into shallow water where bottom topography and water depth vary significantly. Recently, Vincent and Briggs (1989) reported hydraulic model experiments for the transformation of monochromatic and directionally-spread irregular waves passing over a submerged elliptical mound. They concluded that for the case of combined refraction-diffraction of waves by a shoal, the propagation characteristics of the irregular and equivalent regular wave conditions can be vastly different. On the irregular wave transformation have been made theoretical and numerical studies for several years. Although theoretical and laboratory studies on wave transformation have progressed considerably, field measurement and comparison of numerical results with related theories are still necessary for the prediction of the phenomena in reality. In this study, field measurement of both incident and transformed waves in Youngil Bay were made using various kinds of equipments, and numerical computations were made on the transformed frequency spectra of large waves propagating over the shoal using Chae and Jeong's (1992) elliptic model. It is shown that this model results agree very well with field data, and thus the applicability of the model is now validated.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.329-335
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• 2007

The eye measurement to observe the sea surface condition and estimate the wave height has been used in the open sea or the ship. The experts in the eye estimation can measure the wave height very accurately. The Beaufort wind scale is most widely used as a standard index of the eye measurement. However, more definite reference data such as the representative images by each wave heights must be necessary because the appearances and explanations in the Beaufort wind scale are not enough to understand the sea surface condition far the researcher and the public. The modern field data acquisition technique has been developed to measure wave heights, ocean weather data and even images of the sea surface in real-time. In this study, the wireless field image transmitting system for wave heights and images is installed in the real-time ocean measurement system of Chodo light tower near Sokcho city in South Korea. The wave heights and surface images acquired from the real time system in the field are compared with explanations of the Beaufort wind scale. The wave heights and images measured with the precision ultrasonic wave sensor and the scientific sea surface image transmitting system should be helpful to obtain more precise and definite information than the data from the Beaufort wind scale.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2010.04a
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• pp.231-233
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• 2010

최근 어항에도 친환경항만을 건설하기 위한 노력이 국제적으로 확산되고 있으며, 우리나라에서도 어항의 정비 및 재개발부분에서 적극적으로 수질개선을 위한 기술 적용이 본격화 되고 있다. 본 연구는 우리나라 남해의 소규모 어항 및 해수욕장에 슬릿형 해안 구조물이 시공된 실해역의 실측자료와 수치해석을 통해 현장적용성의 분석을 수행하였다. 수치실험으로는 파랑작용 평형방정식을 이용하는 SWAN 모델을 구성하고 수리모형실험에서 분석된 실린더 슬릿형 방파제의 반사와 투과계수를 모텔에 도입하였다. 수치실험은 한국해양연구원의 전해역 심해설계파 추정 보고서 II (2005)중의 심해설계파 제원을 사용하였으며, 대상해역의 1970년~2006년 (37년간) 관측된 연최대 풍속자료를 이용하여 모델에 반영하였다. 설리항에서 S, SSE, SE계열의 파랑의 내습에 대한 분석을 수행하였으며, 그 결과 구조물이 항내에서 정온도가 유지되며 해수순환에도 이점이 있음을 현장관측 자료분석과 수치실험결과를 통하여 확인할 수 있었다.