• 디자인학연구
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.25-33
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• 1998

오뜨꾸뛰르 복식은 새롭고 독창적인 아이디어를 창인 할 뿐 아니라 복식의 고유한 요소 즉, 수공예 적이며 전통고수의 성격을 강하게 갖으면서 20세기에 들어와서는 대중적 요소가 결합되어 세계모드에 영향력을 행사하는 것으로 파악된다. 이러한 요소는 개더의 고유한 구조 자체가 갖고 있는 기술 구사 적 측면으로서만이 아니라 기본적인 기술적 요소가 현대의 여러 사조 및 소재나 복식디자인 적 요소와 유합 하여 복식의 기능적 측면과 장식적인 측면이 융합되어 착용 자나 디자이너에게 있어 미적 표출과 감성적인 측면에까지 영향을 미친다. 20세기는 새로운 예술운동의 범람과 전위적 운동의 전개로 전통적 장르가 붕괴되거나 혼합되어 나타났다. 이러한 믹싱 현상은 트랜드의 부재, 패션의 부재라 할 수 있는 해체주의 적 경향을 띄게 되어 최근 오뜨꾸뛰르에 나타난 개더의 유형으로 아이템이나, 소재, 디자인에서 혼합적 양상이 개더의 디테일 적 요소와 유합, 상충, 병치되어 등 인위적인 구성인 복합구성의 자유로운 형태로서 다종다양하게 나타났다.

• 복식
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• 제63권4호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

Using the premise that fashion and art reflects the characteristics of its times, this study examines the influence of Anti-form in fashion with a focus on physicality. This study combines literary survey and case analysis of both Anti-form in 1960s and 1970s and the fashion collections since 1970s when the influence of Anti-form began to appear in fashion. The influence of Anti-form focusing on physicality is summarized as deconstruction of garment and visualization of the physicality of material. Deconstruction of garment visualizes the invisible structures of garment by deconstructing, restructuring, and deforming the construction and the shapes of the garment, which is illustrated by visualization of design process, overlapping and fusing of materials, loss of stitches, and use of fabrics with flaws, questioning and destroying the sartorial conventions and aesthetic standards. Visualization of the physicality of material exposes the imperfect inside of garment which is concealed conventionally by presenting unfinished garments with minimized sewing procedure, crumpling and flattening fabrics, rubbing and fading surfaces, pulling threads, as well as using the selvages of fabrics.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.162-170
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• 2016

자비에 돌란의 모성과 성적(性的) 정체성에 천착하는 작품들의 영화적 시도와 실험은 어렵거나 낯설지만은 않다. 기존 영화의 양식과 형식을 해체하거나 파괴하기보다는 우리가 기억 하는 친숙한 영화나 시, 패션, 음악, 미술 등의 상호텍스트성 기법인 패스티시와 자기반영성을 통해 소통하고 있기 때문이다. 또한, 그는 작품에서 거듭 반복되는 포스트모더니즘의 특징들이라 할 수 있는 탈(脫) 장르, 탈 주체, 대중문화에 대한 관심, 과거에 대한 향수의 재현으로 말을 건넨다. 본 연구에서는 일종의 유행처럼 지나갔다고 여겨진 포스트모더니즘의 현재를 재인식하고자 하고 자비에 돌란의 영화의 포스트 모더니즘적 특징과 반복적으로 사용된 모티프를 분석하고자 한다. 또한, 그의 작품에서 등장하는 인물들을 통해 소수자들에 대한 감독의 관심과 알레고리적 분석을 시도하고자 한다.

• 복식
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• 제57권6호
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• pp.145-159
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• 2007

Freed from its traditional confinement to the human body, postmodernism in fashion exposes the defectiveness of body and abstracts from the body under. As the 20th century art put premium on self-expression, the body itself became a powerful medium of expression in fashion. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the fragmentation of the body in fashion. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in fragmentation of the body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the late 20th and 21st century, The results of the study are as follows. Fragmentation of the body in fashion means the break away from the idealized and standardized body for mass productions. It tends to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional values that build on the balance and symmetry of the body. The formative aspects of fragmentation are achieved through body casting, displacement, and deconstruction. The absence of physicality in fashion opposes the sartorial convention and symbolism that results in the discord between signifiant and $signifi{\tilde{e}}$ of clothing. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze fragmentation of the body in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제45권5호
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• pp.15-23
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to understanding the intrinsic meanings and aesthetic characteristics expressed by current fashion trends in neckties and to develop a new and unique fashion design for neckties. This study used precedent studies and related literatures to review the changes in neckties and the types of knots used over time. The findings were then verified by photographs from fashion magazines and collections from the 1990s. The results of this study are as follows. First, neckties, generally regarded as a symbol of masculinity, are often mixed with other men's or women's clothing items rather than being worn by themselves, and they provide an androgynous characteristic in women's fashion. This transcendence of femininity or masculinity reflects the human desire to be a more perfect being by sharing each others characteristics, and it can be seen in contemporary beauty trends. Second, neckties have been transformed into scarves, waist belts, front-fly omaments, and so forth. They are used to express a new and sensational sense, the sense of deconstructionism, by breaking away from stereotypes and changing the shape of neckties atypically.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.261-268
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• 2024

본 논문은 조선 후기의 왕실 보자기에 나타난 운보문(雲寶紋) 양식을 고찰하고, 이를 재해석하여 현대의 문화콘텐츠 산업에서 활용도가 높은 패턴디자인으로 개발한 것이다. 디자인의 원천은 서울공예박물관 소장 명안공주(明安公主)의 유물로 알려진 운보문단 보자기이다. 운보문은 운문(雲紋)과 보문(寶紋)이 조화되어 상서로운 의미를 지니는데, 왕실 보자기에 사용되어 귀한 예물을 소중하게 전달한다는 의미가 더해진 것으로 보인다. 왕실의 전통문화는 고품격을 지향하는 다양한 문화상품 개발에 활용될 수 있는 미적, 조형적 요소가 풍부하기 때문에 현대적으로도 활용가치가 매우 높다. 우리는 희소성 있는 왕실 보자기 유물을 고찰하고, 무늬와 조형을 가지고 대중적인 패키지 디자인으로 개발하여 전통문화와 디자인 융합에 있어서 또 다른 가능성을 제시하였다. 특히 보자기의 문양을 단순 차용한 것이 아니라, 이를 해체하여 2024년 패션 트렌드와 적극적으로 접목함으로써 독창적이면서 대중성을 높이는 패턴디자인을 개발하였다. 우선 디자인의 정확한 원형을 얻기 위하여 서울공예박물관에서 왕실 보자기 유물을 직접 조사하여 무늬의 형태와 특성에 관한 상세한 자료를 확보하였고, 이를 바탕으로 운문 1종, 보문 9종 안에서 총 14개의 디자인 모티프를 추출하였다. 이것을 가지고 2024년 패션 트렌드 중 도트 및 리본 패턴과 융합하고 재구성하여 총 6종의 패턴을 개발하였으며, 보자기로 물건을 포장한 모습과 유사한 디자인의 박스 형태에 패턴을 맵핑하여, 패턴디자인이 적용된 실제 패키지의 모습을 가상 구현하였다.

• 복식
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• 제59권5호
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• pp.115-134
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• 2009

This study is about Christian Dior's and Martin Margiela's fashion works that create 'New look' which leads the periodic ideology, philosophies, circumstances and the trend at that time. For the systematized interpretation, this study investigates the iconology of E. Panofsky, E. H. Gombrich and N. Goodman. Based on their theories, iconological analysis paradigm is made into four phases: I. Recognition of iconological form, II. Analysis of External Elements, III. Analysis of symbolic meanings and artistic will and IV. Aesthetic enjoyment and communication with a viewer. Christian Dior treats woman as a organic and architectural structure. He falls in love with himself such as narcissus and woman who wears his works. Dior's ego is visualized by woman and his works which are the symbol of narcissism and beauty. Martin Margiela makes form of clothes and at the same time destroys. Margiela deconstructs aura of clothes and tries to make it unfamiliar. Also he changes traditional idea of beauty and creates 'ugliness' which is a notion of dialectic. Margiela transforms elements of clothes which brings variation of thinking and makes it possible to create new look. Christian Dior and Martin Margiela are the creators of new look which visualizes the notion of habitus that is the space of self-exists. Fashion dose not have to be what people wears but it could be an image itself. It means that fashion is a part of ontology and it is a 'New look' which is based on economy, the standard of periodical beauty and ideal aspects. The creation of clothes is a work of embodiment of human being where it constructed or deconstructed.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.221-236
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to make a contribution to the development of creative fashion culture through the expansion of creative fields in the fashion design area and also the combination of fashion and art techniques, by classifying the cases of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ expressed in modern fashion, and also analyzing its aesthetic characteristics. Conducting the qualitative research through the literature study and the analysis of design cases, it targeted the women's wear collections of Paris, Milan, London, and New York, limiting its range from S/S 2010 to F/W 2015. The results are as follows: First, based on the preceding research, the types of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ expressed in modern fashion were shown as realistic expression of clothing, movement of daily objects, double images, and application of human body. Second, the aesthetic characteristics of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ based on its expression types were deconstruction, avant-garde, and amusements. The deconstruction was expressed in the expression type of Trompe $L{\oe}il$ such as freedom of materials using digital printing technique, change in the position of clothes, and movement of daily items using collage technique by collecting objets like daily items or waste. The avant-garde was expressed by switching/overlapping in and out of clothes, intentionally exposing some body parts like breast or torso, displacing body parts, and moving daily items. The amusements was shown by realistically expressing accessories or details of clothes using digital printing technique, or moving daily items such as book and fork.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권12호
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• pp.1971-1980
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• 2008

본 연구의 목적은 전통적인 니트웨어에 대한 의미와 깊이를 파악하고 베르그송과 들뢰즈의 연속성 이론을 배경으로, 전통 니트의 대표적 패턴인 아란 모티프를 응용한 니트웨어의 디자인 전개와 개발을 해보는데 있다. 현대패션에서 보여지는 주름, 종이접기, 공기주입시스템, 방울이나 꼬임 등에서 느낄 수 있는 소통, 공간적 느낌, 해체적 유동성 등이 연속성 이론의 기본이 된다. 아란 니트는 역사적 전통성을 가지고 있으며, 아란 니트에서 보여지는 모티프는 이러한 연속성의 이론에 부합하고 있다. 본 연구에서는 아란 모티프에서 연속성의 대표적인 케이블 모티프와 연속성 이론을 바탕으로 5점의 핸드 니트웨어를 디자인, 제작하였다. 전통적인 아란 니트와 연속성이론에 기초한 작품 제작 결과를 통하여 새로운 의미를 전달할 수 있는 니트 디자인 개발이 지속적으로 이루어지길 바란다.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.515-527
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• 2014

This study is intended to develop the creative and high value-added products as well as the development of diversity for jump suit for the future by analyzing the trend and feature shown in jump suit in the modern fashion. In the research methodology, the analysis was carried out over a total of 351 work pieces on jump suit among those presented in the collection of Paris, Milan, New York and London from 2006S/S to 2013F/W as well as literature review. The aesthetic features on suit jump design introduced in the modern fashion could be characterized as the following. First, both upper and lower garments are composed with a simple array of items and the stress was put on modernity feature through minimal expression technique. The feature of solid simplicity was also given with achromatic color or neutral monochrome. Second, the feminity image was emphasized with adoption of such highlighting items as detailed add-ons, tops, camisoles and blouses that stress the organically curved streamline including silhouette, material itself, crease and drape that enable the direct and indirect exposition of human body and the expression of smooth curve in human body. Third, jump suit revealed the multipurpose feature as item available for the diverse wear such as working habiliment, sports wear, uniform, office wear and evening wear, depending on the terms and conditions. Fourth, the deconstructive characteristic appeared through integration with various items, destruction of formative structure, non-structural shape, and ambiguity in wearing method.