• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2001년도 춘계학술대회
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• pp.41-41
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• 2001

본 연구는 1990년대 밀리터리 패션에서 성적 이미 지의 표현양상을 살펴보고 각각의 미적 특성과 형성 요인을 분석하여 현대 여성의 다양한 미적 가치와 미의식을 이해하고자 한다. 1, 2차 세계대전을 계기로 자연스럽게 등장한 밀 리터리 패션은 20세기 초반에 여성의 사회참여와 지 위 향상으로 인해 실용성과 기능성을 추구하였고 중 반에 들어서면서 히피와 젊은 세대들에 의해 반전운 동의 일환으로 입혀져 안티패션의 의미를 내포하게 되었으며 후반에는 포스트모더 니즘으로 인해 다양성 을 추구하는 복고풍의 패션 트랜드로서 각종 컬혜션 에서 부각되었다. 그 결과 밀리터리 패션은 기존의 남성적 이미지뿐만 아니라 여성적 이미지도 표현하 게 되었다. 이러한 밀리터리 패션에 나타난 성적 이 미지는 권위적 이미지와 공격적 이미지의 남성적 이 미지와 보수적 이미지와 과시적 이미지, 관능적 이미 지의 여성적 이미지로 표현되어 나타났다. 남성적 이미지는 자유주의 페미니즘과 관련하여 남성 중심적 사고 방식에 도전하고자 하는 여성들의 자아의식이 한층 강하게 작용한 일종의 반 패션 현 상으로 권위적 이미지와 공격적 이미지로 특정지을 수 있다. 첫째, 권위적 이미지는 주로 고전적 군복과 제복의 이미지를 차용해 군복이 가지는 권위와 위엄을 표출 하였으며 남성 우월주의에 기초한 영웅주의를 가시 적으로 표현하였다. 이는 떳떳하게 자신의 위치를 세 우고자 하는 여성들의 욕구를 대변하였으며 영웅주 의와 가부장제도가 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 둘째, 공격적 이미지는 권위적 이미지에 대한 저 항과 기존의 성 정체성에 대한 저항으로써 전위적인 형태와 해체적인 표현으로 본래의 위엄있는 군복의 이미지를 무너뜨려 남성다웅의 표면적인 메시지를 약화시키고자 하였으며 반체제 정신, 성 정체성에 대 한 저항, 해체주의가 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 여성적 이미지는 급진주의 페미니즘과 관련하여 여성 본래의 성을 부각시키고 여성이 주체가 된 여 성중심적 사고로 여성의 감성적 심리를 패션을 통해 표현하고자 하였으며 보수적 이미지, 과시적 이미지, 관능적 이미지로 특징 지을 수 있다. 첫째, 보수적 이미지는 남성적 영역이라고 믿어왔 던 군복에 여성성을 강조하여 가늘고 유연한 실루엣 과 곡선적인 라인, 색채. 심플한 디테일만으로 밀리 터리 패션을 표현하여 남성중심의 이데올로기에서 벗어나 여성도 사회의 중심이 될 수 있음을 시사하 였으며 남성 권위의 추락이 그 형성요인으로 작용하 였다. 둘째, 과시적 이미지는 전통적 군복이 과거의 상 류층 엘리트들만의 아이템이었듯이 현대의 여성들은 신분과 매력의 과시를 표현하고자 금속 단추나 벨트 등 기타장식을 부각시킨 밀리터리 패션을 착용하였 으며 엘리트층에 대한 동경이 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 셋째, 관능적 이미지는 신체의 간접적인 노출과 직접적인 노출을 통해 여성의 신체에 의한 에로틱한 관능미를 부여하고자 하였으며 나르시시즘과 보이고 자 하는 욕구, 성적 유희가 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 그러므로 밀리터리 패션에 나타난 성적 이미지에 관한 연구는 패션을 통해 자아를 표현하고 미적으로 자기완성의 방편을 삼으려고 한 현대 여성들의 가치 관과 미의식을 이해하며 이를 충족시키고자 하는 패 션 트랜드와 디자인 개발에 도움이 될 것이다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.66-87
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• 2022

This study explores the possibility of creating new experimental hanbok designs by accommodating the latest world fashion trends and the changing needs of consumers, in order to attempt to overcome the limitations of traditional Korean fashion design. To do so, We analyze works by contemporary Korean fashion designers to investigate current developments in Korean fashion design and to identify areas of improvement within hanbok design. The results show that most contemporary hanbok designs repeat stereotypes of traditional hanbok with minor modifications. So there arises a need to create new hanbok designs that are clearly distinct from traditional hanbok but also maintain its core features. To develop such designs, I apply the techniques of deconstruction fashion, which allow making experiments with form, composition, and materials use to realize new aesthetics. The use of CLO 3D fashion design software also proves to be very efficient for developing experimental designs. The study results make meaningful contributions to the development of virtual clothing and 3D fashion for hanbok, particularly as metaBUS, a cloud-based research synthesis platform, is rapidly gaining ground, and reality and virtual reality are increasingly mixed in everyday life. This attempt at 3D design of hanbok is expected to trigger more creative experimentation in hanbok design.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제27권3호
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• pp.35-49
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• 2023

The purpose is to derive its aesthetic characteristics by objectifying the visual image of the YouTube campaign into adjectives. As a result, we intend to identify advertising strategies that use them as basic data for setting fashion design concepts. A group of experts in fashion majors watched each of them, wrote adjectives, and collected 75 adjectives. By analyzing the frequency of adjectives, aesthetic characteristics were derived with adjectives recording the upper number of times, and the results were obtained that they had the characteristics of deconstruction. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, Tamburin's Jenny appeared to be strange, scary, rambling and charming. Among the internal meanings of deconstruction due to spatial, social, and psychological distance from consumers, it can be said that T.P.O's mutual textuality and play of interaction. Second, Gucci Cruise be chosen rural, strange, wild, unharmonious, and difficult, which is a mixture of intertextuality and play of T.P.O. Third, The Excise Gucci Campaign parodies that juxtaposes six films directed by Stanley Kubrick, making them strange, retro, difficult, interesting, and wrong. Deconstructionist de-genre and de-boundary Fourth, Kenzo World is weird, dynamic, wrong, difficult, difficult, and confused, which correspond to T.P.O's interactive textuality, play of the second half, and destruction and decomposition among the external expressions of deconstruction. Fifth, Burberry Hero emphasized the aesthetic value of traditional men, so it was ostensibly wild, free, powerful, sensual, and fantastic. Compared to the lifestyle of men who usually work at work, this corresponds to play of second best.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.605-611
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• 2024

본 연구는 패션 산업에서 업사이클링에 대한 관심이 증가함에 따라 대량 생산과 패스트 패션으로 인한 환경 파괴에 대한 우려가 커지고 있는 상황에서 진행되었다. 환경 윤리적 측면을 강조하며, 전통적인 업사이클링 개념을 넘어서 새로운 표현 방법을 도입하는 것을 목표로 하고 있다. 특히 기존 의류의 위치, 기능 및 역할을 변경하여 새로운 업사이클링 패션디자인을 제안한다. 작품제작의 타겟은 20대와 30대 여성을 대상으로 하며, 여러 재료와 자주 버려지는 의류 등을 활용하여 다양한 표현을 제공한다. 이를 통해 환경적 책임을 다루면서도 창의적인 디자인을 구현하는 디자인 개발에 도움이 될 것을 기대한다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.110-123
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• 2007

This study aims at analyzing the characteristics and the mode of deconstructionism expressed in fashion design centering on review of literatures and precedent researches. Through the review of previous studies and various articles, three major features with regard to deconstructionism were found: indeterminacy of meaning, decentralization, and inter -textuality. In fashion, the feature of indeterminacy of meaning expressed by non formula way such as unfinished, layering, obi or straight line cutting and it was divided into unstructured and unorganized factors. The feature of decentralization expressed by disorganization of sex, race, culture and humanism such as trans-gender, third world costume, sub-culture, posthumanism. Last, the feature of inter-textuality expressed by employing the fashion texts more than two simultaneously such as mixture of unmatched or unusual various clothing items, fabrics, patterns and styles. Non formality features in fahsion which divided into unstructured and unconstructed factors. The decentering of meaning means that disorganized the existing concepts of sex, race, culture and humanism features in fashion which divided into cross-gender, subculture, and post-humanism. Lastly, the feature of inter-textuality means that employed the fashion text more than two which is classified into factors of mixing mode and mixed styles. Unstructured factors were expressed by destroying the design principles such as balance, harmony and unit in fashion. Unconstructed factors were expressed by ignoring the basic costume structures and components in fashion. Cross-gender was expressed by manish and duality style in fashion and 3rd world costume was expressed by folk costume style. Anti fashion was expressed by anti aesthetics in fashion such as kitch, punk, and hippie styles. Post-human was expressed by futurism and the 4th Sex style in fashion. Mixing mode were expressed by mixture of item, and unmatched materials and pattern in fashion. Mixture of style were expressed by mixture of pastiche expression of various styles.

• 자연과학논문집
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.149-158
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• 2005

본 연구는 90년대 이후 안티 디자인, 미니멀스타일의 오리지널리티를 가진 프라다의 전시 기획을 통하여 최근 트렌드인 노노스, 해체, 기능주의에 대한 프라다의 패션스타일을 다시 한번 검색하고, 전시기획에서 보여주는 현대디자인의 의미와 디자이너 프라다가 보여주는 창조를 통해 변모해 가는 기능주의와 패션의 예술성, 문화적 담론으로 다가가는 패션전시기획에 대하여 새로운 장을 여는 패션의 전시장 진출에 있다. 패션은 정지해 있지 않다는 것은 모두가 알고 있지만, 전시장 속에서는 다양한 장르와 융합된 패션아이템 뿐 아니라 빛과 움직임에 대한 해석, 현대디자인의 새로운 발전, 그리고 끊임없이 질문에 대답해야 하는 현대예술과 문화의 새로운 출구를 제시한다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권8호
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• pp.1155-1166
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to investigate deconstructive trends of the street fashion in the 1990s spring/summer(S/S) Collections. This study was carried out by both the qualitative analysis and the quantitative analysis. In the qualitative analysis, the important street fashion was grouped and deconstruction was sampling of category. In the quantitative analysis, it took frequency, percentage and $\chi$$^2$-test. The results of the quantitative analysis are as follows: 1. \"N대-Hippie/Grunge\" has been most popular street fashion through the 1990s. The next is \"Sportive Casual\". 2. According to \"deconstructive inner meanings\", there are significant differences between the S/S street fashion in the 1990s. In \"N대-Mods/Jazz\" style, \"Sportive Casual style\" and \"Technos/Cyber-punk\" style, \"Intertextuality\" is high. In \"N대-Hippie/Grunge\" style, \"Exhibition of Otherness\" is high. 3. According to the \"deconstructive outer description\", there are also significant differences between the S/S street fashion in the 1990s. But, In \"Neo-Mods/Jazz\" style, \"Not Included\" is high, which means the \"N대-Mods/Jazz\" isnt related to the \"deconstructive outer description\". In \"N대-Hippie/Grunge\" style, \"Poverty.outworn\" is high. In \"Sportive Casual\", \"Exposure\" is high. In the \"Technos/Cyber-punk\", \"Destruction.Division\" is high.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.75-84
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• 2007

All styles began to coexist by recognizing diversity and changeability instead of an absolute value system of beauty or truth in the general culture field of modern society. In other words, the characteristic of deconstructism, which breaks down the boundary between order, balance, style and genre within the texture, is brought out. This characteristic is also having an effect on the field of up style in a hair genre to secure the beauty of incompletion as the beauty of the present time, involving the beauty of ugliness in the boundary of beauty. This study aims at presenting new vision by applying deconstuctism to the up style to express as an original and experimental formative art with various expressive methods. In addition, it aims at being perfect for presenting the creativity and artistry through expressive techniques by formative factor of deconstructive up style to find new methods and directions to design concept with main expressive ability of deconstructive up style.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.93-109
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• 2015

Advent of diverse media and advancement in digital technology significantly affected our perception of time and space. By utilizing digital media actively, fashion illustration has come to go beyond the limitation on conventional perspective expression. This study aims to examine the phenomenon of deconstruction of perspective in fashion illustration, and to analyze a variety of space expressions and effects of visual expression in fashion illustration. By way of literature research for the study, theoretical data are reviewed about basic concepts of conventional perspective and the characteristics and aesthetic concept of perspective deconstruction expression in visual art. By way of an empirical study, fashion illustrations that represent the deconstruction of perspective are classified and analyzed characteristics and image effects of such expressions. Deconstruction of perspective in fashion illustration find in expression of spaces by means of multi-space, multi-layer space, reverse perspective, perspective through the exaggeration, multi-perspective space, and panoramic visual condition. Fashion illustration expresses visual confusion or fantasy rather than creating realistic spaces that have utilized reasonable perspective. Fashion illustration is moving toward a trait with disharmony and an in-depth visionary space by overlapping or mixing spaces differing from each other, and by means of such peculiar and unrealistic expressions, unfamiliar images are created.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.874-885
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• 2013

This study analyzes the visage in fashion illustration based on the deconstructed visage of Francis Bacon's paintings as well as analyzes fashion illustration works since 2000. The deconstructed visages in Francis Bacon's paintings are classified as blurring, elimination, distortion and division. The expressive methods and meanings in fashion illustration (according to categorization) are as follow. Blurring shows an ambiguous visage organ by the sweeping of the brush, removal of a boundary among the visage, body and clothes, gradation of organic line like visage shapes, stretching of the a plat combined to visage and fragmentation of visage. It represents an uncertainty of the fashion theme and image interpretation, impossibility of figure by ambiguity, fantastic effect and the induction of the uncanny. Elimination shows the background color's painting of a photo-montage, overlap of a cutting of visage's part and background of a plat, elimination of the visage and the elimination of eyes, nose or lips. It represents a weakened identity, the reinforcement of anonymity, creation of a violent image, and uncanny unfamiliarity. Distortion shows a distorted visage by free drawing, and unconscious drawing line, fluid digital body, combination of an unconscious curve, and an eccentric combination of the accidental. It represents the relief of specialty about realistic existence, hypothetical immateriality and fantasy. Division shows overlapped visages with different angles, the weird combination of a plural visage and different species and a plural breakaway of direction, and the position of several organs. It represents motion by power's trace, non-territory of species, ambiguity and uncertainty and the uncanny.