• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.5
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• pp.223-233
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• 2018

The predictability of winter storm waves using KMA's operational wind forecasts has been studied to predict wind waves and swells in the East coast of Korea using SWAN. The nested model were employed along the East coast of Korea to simulate the wave transformation in the coastal area and wave dissipation term of whitecapping is optimized to improve swell prediction accuracy. In this study, KMA's operational meteorological models (RDAPS and LDAPS) are used as input wind fields. In order to evaluate model accuracy, we also simulate wind waves and swells using ECMWF reanalysis and KIOST WRF wind and they are compared with the KMA's operational wave model and the wave measurement data on the offshore and onshore stations. As a result, it has the lowest RMSE and the highest correlation coefficient in the onshore when the input wind fields are KMA's operational meteorological forecasts. In the offshore, all of the simulate results shows good agreements with similar error statistics. It means that it is very feasible to use SWAN model with the modified whitecapping factor and KMA's operational meteorological forecasts for predicting the wind waves and swells in the East coast of Korea.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.6-11
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• 2009

In this study, the internal waves in two-density layered fluids were analyzed using the Numerical Wave Tank (NWT) technique in the frequency domain. The NWT is based on a two-domain Boundary Element Method with the potential fluids using the whole-domain matrix scheme. From the mathematical solution of the two-domain boundary integral equation, two different wave modes could be classified: a surface wave mode and an internal wave mode, and each mode were shown to have a wave number determined by a respective dispersion relation. The magnitudes of the internal waves against surface waves were investigated for various fluid densities and water depths. The calculated results are compared with available theoretical data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.211-221
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• 2022

The wave runup height is one of the most important parameters for affecting the design of coastal structures such as dikes, revetments, and breakwaters. In this study, SWASH (Zijlema et al., 2011), a non-hydrostatic pressure numerical model, was used to analyze the effect of reducing The wave runup height of solitary waves by submerged and floating rectangular obstacles. It was confirmed that the SWASH model reproduces the propagation, breaking, and runup of solitary waves quite well. In addition, it was confirmed that the wave deformation of the solitary wave by submerged and floating rectangular obstacles was well reproduced. Finally, we conducted an examination of the effect of reducing the runup height of submerged and floating rectangular obstacles. Reduced runup heights are calculated and the characteristics of runup height reduction according to the dimensions of the obstacle were analyzed. The energy attenuation effect of the floating obstacle is greater than the submerged obstacle, and it is shown to be more effective in reducing the runup height.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2011.05a
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• pp.45-49
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• 2011

본 연구에서는 일본 전력중앙연구소에서 수행된 wave fission 수리모형실험 자료를 토대로 일차원 FUNWAVE 수치모형을 이용하여 wave fission 현상을 재현하는 수치모의를 수행하였다. FUNWAVE 수치모형은 Boussinesq 방정식을 지배방정식으로 사용하고 있으며 파의 분산효과와 비선형 효과를 고려할 수 있는 수치모형이다. 따라서 wave fission의 주된 발생원인인 분산효과와 비선형효과에 대한 고려를 통해 수치모의 결과는 수리모형실험의 관측치와 상당히 잘 일치함을 확인할 수 있었다. 또한, 본 연구에서는 추가적으로 해수의 흐름이 존재하는 경우를 가정하고 수로 내 일정한 유량의 흐름을 추가하여 wave fission 일차원 수치모의를 수행하였다. 수치모의 결과 파의 진행방향과 반대방향으로 흐름이 존재하는 경우 wave fission으로 인한 수면변위의 크기가 상대적으로 증가함을 확인할 수 있었으며 반대로 파의 진행방향과 동일한 방향으로 흐름이 존재하는 경우 wave fission으로 인한 수면변위의 크기가 상대적으로 감소함을 확인할 수 있었다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.93-99
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• 2022

Analytical solutions for regular waves generated by bottom wave makers in a 3-dimensional wave basin were derived in this study. Bottom wave makers which have triangular, rectangular and combination of two shapes were adopted. The 3-dimensional velocity potential was derived based on the linear wave theory with the bottom moving boundary condition, kinematic and dynamic free surface boundary conditions in a wave basin. Then, analytical solutions of 3-dimensional particle velocities and free surface displacement were derived from the velocity potential. The solutions showed physically valid results for regular waves generated by bottom wave makers in a wave basin. The analytical solution for obliquely propagating wave generation from bottom wave maker which works like a snake was also derived. Numerical results of the solution agree well with theoretically predicted results.

• Journal of KIISE
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• v.42 no.7
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• pp.846-851
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• 2015

Seas and swells are basic wave types in ocean surface simulation and are very important elements in the simulation of ocean background. In this paper, we propose a real-time simulation method, for reproducing realistic seas and swells, to be used in real-time simulators such as ship maneuvering simulators. Seas and swells have different visual properties. Swells have relatively longer wavelengths and round crests compared with seas, therefore they are visualized globally with large meshes and procedural methods. Parameters to illustrate swells are extracted from ocean wave spectra. Conversely, seas have shorter wavelengths and their characteristics are only clearly apparent near to the observation point. Here, we present visualization of seas based on a statistical wave model using ocean wave spectra, which provides realistic results in a reactively small area.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.58-71
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• 2022

Analytical solutions for two-dimensional velocities of regular waves generated by bottom wave makers in a flume were derived in this study. Triangular and rectangular bottom wave makers were adopted. The velocity potential was derived based on the linear wave theory with the bottom moving boundary condition, kinematic and dynamic free surface boundary conditions. Then, analytical solutions of two-dimensional particle velocities were derived from the velocity potential. The velocity potential and two-dimensional particle velocities which were derived as complex integral equations were numerically calculated. The solutions showed physically valid results as velocities of regular waves generated by bottom wave makers in a flume.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2003.08a
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• pp.359-362
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• 2003

심해 설계파를 추정하는 과정은 일반적으로 극치분포함수에 의한 방법에 의존한다. 극치분포함수를 이용하여 재현기간별 극값을 추출하는 방법은 가용한 자료를 일정기간(보통 1년)으로 구분하고, 구분된 기간에서의 최대값(또는 최소값)을 추출하고, 추출된 자료로부터 적합한 분포를 추정하는 과정으로 분류할 수 있다. (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.478-484
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• 2019

The submarine cable for Yongsu wave power plant was cut in 2014 winter. This study investigated the probability of high-wave occurrence exceeding the 50-year return period and the underestimation of armor unit weight used to protect the cable. The observation data from KMA buoy and the hindcast wave data were reviewed to determine the return period of wave height during the winter. In order to investigate the armor unit weight of cable-protection, we calculated the required weight of armor unit using not only Design Standard for Harbor and Fishery Port, but also the previous researches for the wave with large incident angle. As a result, it appeared that the high wave exceeding the 50-year return period did not occur during the winter of 2014 and the armor unit weight of the cable protection was not sufficient to sustain the obliquely incident wave, which induced the cable protection failure.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.181-189
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• 2000

A weakly nonlinear mild-slope equation has been derived directly from the continuity equation with the aid of the Galerkin's method. The equation is combined with the momentum equations defined at the mean water level. A single component model has also been obtained in terms of the surface displacement. The linearized form is completely identical with the time-dependent mild-slope equation proposed by Smith and Sprinks(1975). For the verification purposes of the present nonlinear model, the degenerate forms were compared with Airy(1845)'s non-dispersive nonlinear wave equation, classical Boussinesq equation, andsecond¬order permanent Stokes waves. In this study, the present nonlinear wave equations are discretized by the approximate factorization techniques so that a tridiagonal matrix solver is used for each direction. Through the comparison with physical experiments, nonlinear wave model capacity was examined and the overall agreement was obtained.