• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.37-45
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• 2019

In spite of continued nourishments, Haeundae Beach in Busan has been suffering from erosion, this being caused by the increased wave energy due to global warming and intermittent typhoon reported by previous works. In the meantime, the typhoon Chaba hit Basan in October 2016. In order to investigate the effects of the typhoon in beach erosion and how fast the beach recovered after the typhoon, repeated beach profiling using a VRS-GPS system was carried out, and the grain size analyses for surface sediments sampled on the beach were conducted. Immediately after the typhoon invasion, Haeundae beach was eroded by 1.4 m in average height. The mean high tide lines were retreated back by 12 m, and beach slope became gentler from $3.8^{\circ}$ to $1.7^{\circ}$. The mean grain sizes of surface sediments became coarser from $1.6{\Phi}$ to $1.2{\Phi}$ after two months, and the sorting well sorted. After two months of typhoon landfall, the mean high tide lines have recovered by 85%, and the beach topography almost recovered. This suggests that the impact of typhoons on Haeundae beach erosion is negligible, and the relaxation time is shorter than that of other beaches.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.69-84
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• 2020

Natural shoreline repeats its re-treatment and advance in response to the endlessly varying sea-conditions, and once severely eroded under stormy weather conditions, natural beaches are gradually recovered via a boundary layer streaming when swells are prevailing after storms cease. Our understanding of the boundary layer streaming over surf-zone often falls short despite its great engineering value, and here it should be noted that the most sediments available along the shore are supplied over the surf-zone. In this rationale, numerical simulation was implemented to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of boundary layer streaming over the surf zone in this study. In doing so, comprehensive numerical models made of Spatially filtered Navier-Stokes Eq., LES (Large Eddy Simulation), Dynamic Smagorinsky turbulence closure were used, and the effects of turbulence closure such as Dynamic Smagorinsky in LES and k-ε on the numerically simulated flow field were also investigated. Numerical results show that due to the intrinsic limits of k-ε turbulence model, numerically simulated flow velocity near the bottom based on k-ε model and wall function are over-predicted than the one using Dynamic Smagorinsky in LES. It is also shown that flow velocities near the bottom are faster than the one above the bottom which are relatively free from the presence of the bottom, complying the typical boundary layer streaming by Longuet-Higgins (1957), the spatial scope where boundary layer streaming are occurring is extended well into the surf zone as incoming waves are getting longer. These tendencies are plausible considering that it is the bottom friction that triggers a boundary layer streaming, and longer waves start to feel the bottom much faster than shorter waves.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.19-30
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• 2020

To understand the impact of typhoons on Gamji gravel beach Taejongdae in Busan, we carried out beach profiling using a VRS-GPS system and a Drone photogrammetry for the typhoons 'Kong-rey' invaded in October 2018 and 'Danas' in July 2019. In addition, grain sizes are analyzed to investigate the overall distribution pattern of gravels on the beach, and the beach topography is surveyed periodically to confirm the recovery rate of the beach. Grain-size analysis reveals that mean gravel sizes, in general, become finer from -6.2Φ to -5.4Φ towards the east in the seashore line direction. Variation in mean sizes is obviously observed in the cross-shore direction. Gravels in the swash zone are relatively fine about -4.5Φ in size and equant in shape, whereas the coarse and oblate gravels ranged from -5Φ to -6Φ are found in the berm. Gamji gravel beach particularly has two lines of berms: a lower berm situated facing beach and an upper berm about 10 m landward. After the typhoon Kong-rey passed by, about 1.4 m of severe erosion in upper berm occurred, and the berm eventually disappeared. On the backshore of the upper berm about 50 cm of erosion took place so that the elevation became lower. However, tangible erosion was not observed in the lower berm. When typhoon Danas hit, rated as mild storm, both upper and lower berm were eroded out. However, about 50 cm of deposition occurred only in the backshore. Only three days later, the new lower berm was formed, meaning that sedimentation rate must be high. This result indicates that Gamji gravel beach is recovered very fast from erosion caused by the typhoons when it is under the fair-weather condition even though beach morphology changes dramatically in a short period of time. Gravel beach is estimated to be or evaluated very resilient to typhoon erosion.

• Journal of The Geomorphological Association of Korea
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.85-93
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• 2010

After the notorious Taean Oil spill in Dec. 2007, a series of sand fences made of fishing net were installed in front of foredune in Shindu dune area. This paper aims to understand the temporal and spatial characteristics of morphological changes of the beach and foredune. About 1m high sand accumulated around sand fences for the last 2 years. While a lot of sand deposited during the winter season (from autumn to spring), small amount of sand eroded and deposited during summer season (from spring to autumn) without big morphological changes. These results mean that sand fences help nature deposit sand near beach and foredune area.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.28-39
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• 2019

In the design process of counter measures against the beach erosion, information like the main sediment transport mode and yearly net amount of longshore and cross shore transport is of great engineering value. In this rationale, we numerically analyzed the yearly sediment budget of the Mang-Bang beach which is suffering from erosion problem. For the case of cross sediment transport, Bailard's model (1981) having its roots on the Bagnold's energy model (1963) is utilized. In doing so, longshore sediment transport rate is estimated based on the assumption that longshore transport rate is determined by the available wave energy influx toward the beach. Velocity moments required for the application of Bailard's model (1981) is deduced from numerical simulation of the nonlinear shoaling process over the Mang-Bang beach of the 71 wave conditions carefully chosen from the wave records. As a wave driver, we used the consistent frequency Boussinesq Eq. by Frelich and Guza (1984). Numerical results show that contrary to the Bailard's study (1981), Irribaren NO. has non negligible influence on the velocity moments. We also proceeds to numerically simulate the yearly sediment budget of Mang-Bang beach. Numerical results show that for ${\beta}=41.6^{\circ}$, the mean orientation of Mang-Bang beach, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing over the south-eastwardly moving sediment, the yearly amount of which is simulated to reach its maxima at $125,000m^3/m$. And the null pint where north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is balanced by the south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is located at ${\beta}=47^{\circ}$. For the case of cross shore sediment, the sediment is gradually moving toward the shore from the April to mid October, whereas these trends are reversed by sporadically occurring energetic wind waves at the end of October and March. We also complete the littoral drift rose of the Mang-Bang beach, which shows that even though the shore line is temporarily retreated, and as a result, the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is larger than the orientation of null pont, south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. In a case that the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is smaller than the orientation of null pont, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. And these trend imply that the Mang-Bang beach is stable one, which has the self restoring capability once exposed to erosion.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.409-422
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• 2019

In this study, we carried out the 3D numerical simulation to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of Synchronous Edge wave known as the driving mechanism of beach cusp using the Tool Box called the ihFoam that has its roots on the OpenFoam. As a wave driver, RANS (Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equation) and mass conservation equation are used. In doing so, we materialized short-crested waves known as the prerequisite for the formation of Synchronous Edge waves by generating two obliquely colliding Cnoidal waves. Numerical results show that as can be expected, flow velocity along the cross section where waves are focused are simulated to be much faster than the one along the cross section where waves are diverged. It is also shown that along the cross section where waves are focused, up-rush is moving much faster than its associated back-wash, but a duration period of up-rush is shortened, which complies the typical characteristics of nonlinear waves. On the other hand, due to the water-merging effect triggered by the redirected flow toward wave-diverging area at the pinacle of run-up, along the cross section where waves are diverged, offshore-ward velocity is larger than shore-ward velocity at the vicinity of shore-line, while at the very middle of shoaling process, the asymmetry of flow velocity leaned toward the shore is noticeably weakened. Considering that these flow characteristics can be found without exception in Synchronous Edge waves, the numerical simulation can be regarded to be successfully implemented. In doing so, new insight about how the boundary layer streaming occur are also developed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.55-68
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• 2020

In order to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of a boundary layer streaming over the beach cusps appeared in swells prevailing mild seas, we numerically simulated the shoaling process of Edge waves over the beach cusp. Synchronous Edge waves known to sustain the beach cusps could successfully be duplicated by generating two obliquely colliding Edge waves in front of beach cusps. The amplitude A_B and length L_B of Beach Cusp were elected to be 1.25 m and 18 m, respectively based on the measured data along the Mang-Bang beach. Numerical results show that boundary layer streaming was formed at every phase of shoaling process without exception, and the maximum boundary layer streaming was observed to occur at the crest of sand bar. In RUN 1 where the shortest waves were deployed, the maximum boundary layer streaming was observed to be around 0.32 m/s, which far exceeds the amplitude of free stream by two times. It is also noted that the maximum boundary layer streaming mentioned above greatly differs from the analytical solution by Longuet-Higgins (1957) based on wave Reynolds stress. In doing so, we also identify the recovery procedure of natural beaches in swells prevailing mild seas, which can be summarized such as: as the infra-gravity waves formed in swells by the resonance wave-wave interaction arrives near the breaking line, the sediments ascending near the free surface by the Phase II waves orbital motion were carried toward the pinnacle of foreshore by the shoreward flow commenced at the steep front of breaking waves, and were deposited near the pinnacle of foreshore due to the infiltration.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.434-449
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• 2019

In this study, we develop a new cross-shore sediment module which takes the effect of infra-gravity waves of bound mode, and boundary layer streaming on the sediment transport into account besides the well-known asymmetry and under-tow. In doing so, the effect of individual random waves occurring during the unit observation period of 1 hr on sediment transport is also fully taken into account. To demonstrate how the individual random waves would affect the sediment transport, we numerically simulate the non-linear shoaling process of random wavers over the beach of uniform slope. Numerical results show that with the consistent frequency Boussinesq Eq. the application of which is lately extended to surf zone, we could simulate the saw-tooth profile observed without exception over the surf zone, infra-gravity waves of bound mode, and boundary-layer streaming accurately enough. It is also shown that when yearly highest random waves are modeled by the equivalent nonlinear uniform waves, the maximum cross-shore transport rate well exceeds the one where the randomness is fully taken into account as much as three times. Besides, in order to optimize the free parameter K involved in the long-shore sediment module, we carry out the numerical simulation to trace the yearly shoreline change of Mang-Bang beach from 2017.4.26 to 2018.4.20 as well, and proceeds to optimize the K by comparing the traced shoreline change with the measured one. Numerical results show that the optimized K for Mang-Bang beach would be 0.17. With K = 0.17, via yearly grand circulation process comprising severe erosion by consecutively occurring yearly highest waves at the end of October, and gradual recovery over the winter and spring by swell, the advance of shore-line at the northern and southern ends of Mang-Bang beach by 18 m, and the retreat of shore-line by 2.4 m at the middle of Mang-Bang beach can be successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation.