• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1993.07a
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• pp.42-44
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• 1993

최근, 불규칙파를 조파시킴으로서 발생하는 실험실 스케일의 해빈변형에 대해서 그 정선변화 뿐만아니라 수심변화까지 포함한 수치 simulation모델이 개발되었다. 그러나 현지파랑은 파고, 주기가 불규칙하고, 또한 입사파향도 일정하지 않기때문에, 앞서 논한 예측법에 의해 현지연안에서 발생하는 지형변동을 예측하기 위해서는, 현지파랑중 어떠한 방법으로 대표파고를 선정할 것인가가 큰 문제가 된다. (중략)

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 1988.07a
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• pp.45-54
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• 1988

현지해안의 해빈변형을 연구하기 위해 해운대 해수욕장에서 파랑과 해빈류를 관측하였으며, 또한 파랑과 흐름의 간섭효과를 고려한 파랑변형 및 해빈류를 수치계산하여 관측결과와 비교하였다. 지형변동은 경험적 고유함수법에 의해 해석했다. 해운대 해수욕장의 해빈변형을 해빈류의 유황과 지형변동의 해석결과에 의해 분석하였다. 남서풍이 탁월할 때는 종단방향의 표사이동에 의해 침식이 일어났으며, 이 때의 표사이동 양상은 입사각이 180。일 때의 해빈류의 유황과 거의 일치하였다. 북동풍이 탁월할 때는 연안방향의 표사이동에 의해 침식이 일어났으며, 이 때의 표사이동 양상은 입사각이 160。일 때의 해빈류의 유황과 거의 일치하였다. 즉, 현지의 해빈변형은 입사파의 특성과 파랑에 의해 일어나는 해빈류에 의해 크게 좌우되는 것으로 나타났다.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.177-188
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• 1991

The littoral drift in the nearshore zone occurs mainly due to wave action and nearshore currents. Beach topotraphical evolution model presented in this study shows the possibility which can be applied to the prediction of beach deformation over short time interval, associated with the construction of coastal structures. The 3-dimensional beach evolution model, based on Watanabe's equation and Deguchi's flux model, is developed and consists of three submodels of wave transformation, rip-currents, and beach deformation. This model is applied to the several cases with different conditions and compared with the results of Watanabe's numerical model. In addition, the effects of parameters involved are discussed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.65-75
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• 2002

The changes of sea bottom configuration, which may cause the coastal disasters, have been considered as social problems. It is obvious that the beach deformation is attributable to the sediment transport associated with erosion and siltation in coastal areas such esturies, channel and harbors. The prediction method and countermeasures far them, however, are not on the level of satisfaction, which indicates that make efforts should be made on developing them. Groin was constructed at Hak-Dong gravel beach to embark ship at 1996, as a result region of right of groin, severe erosion of beach is proceeding till now 1999. In this study, based on the field measurements, involved the one-line theory model which was selected for the prediction of shoreline change to prepare coastal protection methods of Hak-Deng gravel beach. Author found that the storaged sediment estimation model by Sonu and Beek(1971) is useful model at the Hak-Dong gravel beach by the use of topographical survey data from September, 1998 to September, 1999.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.101-109
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• 2008

Several numerical models for predicting beach profile changes have been developed by many researchers. Many of the earlier models are known to simulate the erosional profiles with the formation of offshore bar. However, most of the models don't have proper mechanism to incorporate the recovery process of the eroded profiles after a storm and can not simulate the beach accretion with acceptable accuracy. In order to overcome these shortcomings, we propose a new numerical model which has new features to simulate the accretional phase of beach recovery process after storm including such as redistribution of suspended sand particles near the breaking point. The simulation results of the proposed model were compared with LWT (Large Wave Tank) experiments performed at CRIEPI (Central Research Institute of Electric Power Industry in Japan) and CE (the Us Army Corps of Engineers) and it was shown to have performed better compared to SBEACH (Storm-induced BEAch CHange).

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.30 no.3B
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• pp.325-335
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• 2010

The aim of this study is to survey the effects of laying drainage layer in sandy beach on beach stabilization. At first, the numerical model developed by Hur and Lee (2007), which is able to consider the flow through a porous medium with inertia, laminar and turbulent resistance terms, i.e. simulate directly WAve Structure Seabed/Sandy beach interaction and can determine the eddy viscosity with LES turbulent model in 3-D wave field (LES-WASS-3D), is validated by comparing with existing experimental data. And then, numerical simulation is carried out to examine the characteristics of wave-sandy beach interaction for a beach with/without drainage layer. From the numerical results, it is shown that mean ground-water level around a foreshore decreases and offshore-ward flow over a seabed reduces in case of a beach with drainage layer. Moreover, the effects of cross profile of drainage layer and incident wave condition on mean ground-water level around a foreshore are also discussed as well the distribution of wave setup around the foreshore.

• The Korean Journal of Quaternary Research
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.27-39
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• 1993

The shingle beach as a typical pocket beach located in Jeongdo-ri, Wando, Cheolanam-do, Korea has been investigated in terms of textural characteristics, mainly gravel shape and roundness. In the Jeongdo-ri gravel beach, changes of beach profile after storm weather and textural parameters of gravels were observed and measured from May 1992 to March 1993. Beach profile is divided into two different Fair-weather zone and Storm-weather zone influenced by dynamic condition of wave energy. The former is affected by wave and tide under fair-weather condition, the latter seems to be formed under storm-weather condition. Each zone comprises a series of beach faces and berms formed by continuous sedimentary processes of swash, overwash and backwash. Storm-weather zone is subdivided into three groups having a pair of beach face and berm respectively. Mean sizes of berm gravel(45.5 mm -123.6 mm) are coarser than gravels of beach face (36.8 mm - 78.3 mm) in fair-weather zone. On the other hand, in storm-weather zone, gravels of berms (33.1 mm -82.5 mm) are finer than those of beachfaces (46.2 mm - 105.2 mm). The proportion of disc shaped gravels of berm (50.0% - 58.5 %) is higher than that of beachface (45.9 % - 51.3 %) in each subzone except C-group of storm-weather zone. And the proportion of the equant shaped gravel increases about up to 10% seaward. Therefore, shore-normal distribution of gravels seems to be affected by shape and size sorting effects. Shore-parallel distribution pattern of gravel shape is more distinctive than size distribution patterns. That is, disc and blade shaped particles decrease up to 20% and 13% respectively, and equants increase up to 34% to the westward. Gravels plotted on Sneed and Folk's triangular diagram are more compacted and elongated with decreasing size. Therefore primary gravels are shaped by characteristics of country rock e.g. cleavage, joint etc., and secondary are affected by sorting and size-controlled process evolution by wave action.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.290-317
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• 2013

The objectives of this study are to investigate the natural heritage and scientific value of various geosites on Udo Island, and to evaluate the sites as natural monuments and as world natural heritage properties. Udo Island includes a variety of geoheritage sites. Various land forms formed during the formation of the Someori Oreum formed by phreatomagmatic eruptions. The essential elements for the formation of Udo Island are the tuff cone, overflowing lava and overlying redeposited tuff sediments. Various coastal land forms are also present. About 6,000 years B.C., when sea-level rose close to its present level due to deglaciation since the Last Glacial Maximum, carbonate sediments have been formed and deposited in shallow marine environment surrounding Udo Island. In particular, the very shallow broad shelf between Udo Island and Jeju Island, less than 20 m in water depth, has provided perfect conditions for the formation of rhodoids. Significant amounts of rhodoids are now forming in this area. Occasional transport of these rhodoids by typhoons has produced unique beach deposits which are entirely composed of rhodoids. Additional features are the Hagosudong Beach with its white carbonate sands, the Geommeole Beach with its black tuffaceous sands and Tolkani Beach with its basalt cobbles and boulders. Near Hagosudong Beach, wind-blown sands in the past produced carbonate sand dunes. On the northern part of the island, special carbonate sediments are present, due to their formation by composite processes such as beach-forming process and transportation by typhoons. The development of several sea caves is another feature of Udo Island, formed by waves and typhoon erosion within tuffaceous sedimentary rocks. In particular, one sea cave found at a depth of 10 m is very special because it indicates past sea-level fluctuations. Shell mounds in Udo Island may well represent the mixed heritage feature on this island. The most valuable geoheritage sites investigated around Udo Isalnd are rhodoid depostis on beaches and in shallow seas, and Someori Oreum composed of volcanoclastic deposits and basalt lava. Beach and shallow marine sediments, composed only of rhodoids, appear to be very rare in the world. Also, the natural heritage value of the Someori Oreum is outstanding, together with other phreatomagmatic tuff cones such as Suwolbong, Songaksan and Yongmeori. Consequently, the rhodoid deposits and the Someori Oreum are worth being nominated for UNESCO World Natural Heritage status. The designation of Someori Oreum as a Natural Monument should be a prerequisite for this procedure.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.207-215
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• 2004

Recently, securing a vast land in the land region becomes more difficult and efforts to seek its alternation in the sea area have been increased. As a consequence, the coastal region has been faced to extensive beach erosion problems. In planning offshore structures such as artificial islands, it is necessary to forecast the influence of the structure construction exerting on the beach erosion of the adjacent coast. In the present study, the sediment movement pattern behind offshore structure was examined through a series of three dimensional movable bed experiments, so as to develop the numerical model which forecasts morphological change including beach erosions. The experimental results reveal that the sediment movement patterns of the beach line side and the depth region are separated at a certain boundary line. In details, at the beach side including swash zone the sediment movement becomes dominant, which is governed by a relation between depth contours and incident wave directions, while at the depth region the bed load and suspended load due to the orbit motion of waves are carried by nearshore currents, and both movements are clearly separated at a specified boundary that is related to partial standing wave from the beach. It is expected that these results can be effectively used for verification of a numerical model on morphological change of the coast.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.304-312
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• 2011

Grain size analysis was conducted for a total of 402 surface sediments collected from 67 sites along three (upper, middle, and lower) transects corresponding to the high-, mid-, and low-intertidal zone of beach on the Sinjado, Nakdong River estuary in Nov. 2005 and May 2006. Sinja-do beach sediments showed uni-modal grain size distributions, in which the mode of $3.0{\phi}$ was dominant in 2005 whereas the mode of $2.5{\phi}$ in 2006. This coarsening trend was more remarkable in the western side of beach as well as in the mid- and low-intertidal zone. In this study, we focused on investigating characteristics of sediment size changes on the basis of transect data that differ in tidal elevation. For this purpose, a statistical test was applied for transect by transect comparison of grain size parameters such as mean, sorting, and skewness. Mean values between middle and lower transect, sorting values between upper and lower transect, and skewness values over the beach reflected statistically significant temporal changes. Also, mean and skewness parameters showed an inverse relationship which was more stronger in 2006 than in 2005. Temporal changes in Sinja-do beach sediments resulted in decrease of mean and sorting values but increase of skewness values, intensifying the inverse relationship between mean and skewness parameters.