• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.161-167
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• 2006

The purpose of this research are to identify the nature of artistic beauty of Kokuryeo dresses and to apply the artistic beauty, formative uniqueness, and esthetic value of Kokuryeo in the modern Korean dress design for creation of new designs. Significance of this research lies in the fact that beauty of traditional dresses possesses highly valuable importance for application to modern fashion design processes. Kokuryeo dresses basically comprised of Yu, Sang, Go and Po, and contains within abstract beauty along with emphasis on geometric elements like dots, lines, and surfaces. Red, Black, Violet, Verdant and scarlet colors were moderately used against the mainly white canvas, and different colors were often used for the top and the bottom. Silk, Hemp cloth and Wool were used for different social levels or ranks, and from the wide variety of colors and patterns of the dresses, such as Round-patterns, Cloud-patterns and Vine-patterns, worn by the people illustrated on the wall paintings, it appears that various materials were used. Vertical hems, Yu (shirts), Sang (skirts), noblemen's dresses, kings' dresses, etc. from Kokuryeo tomb wall paintings were applied, and various dying methods, natural materials and sewing methods were used to recreate the unique features of Kokuryeo dresses in modern designs in an attempt to recreate the esthetic value of Kokuryeo dresses.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.56 no.2
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• pp.195-203
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• 2018

Online game digital hanbok has an aesthetic value in a digital culture and is useful for developing a digital hanbok design for online games as well as other industries. This thesis analyzes its attire and design composition elements to design a 3D digital hanbok by utilizing its formative characteristics. The literature review defines them as transmutability, virtuality, fictionality, reality and playfulness based on the characteristics of digital media, late digital generation and online games. We analyzed 471 images from 50 online games. Sonmaep was used for making 3D digital hanboks. Its attire was grouped into jogori pants, jogori chima, po and armor. Its design composition elements were classified as pleat, layering mu or hemline, mu sub gyeopmagi mitbadae, vent, git dongjung and decoration elements. The results feature 8 digital hanbok designs. Reality designs are replicas of jogori daegugo for men and po for women in the period of the Three States. Virtuality designs are slightly changed shapes of yoseoncheolrik for men and white jogori yellow chima for women in the Koryo Dynasty. Fictionality designs are casual fusion armors for men and women as a hyperbolic form. Playfulness designs are doll costumes for men and jogori chima for women as a kitsch and childish style. The concept of online game digital hanbok escapes from conceptual limitations of traditional hanboks. This result can be used for designing digital hanbok contents in various industrial parts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.80-87
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to develop cultural products containing Korean beauty with modern sense by applying quilting with dyed threat among Korean traditional quilting works. Quilting with dyed thread using various colored thread expresses curve, straight and oblique lines harmoniously, is mainly used to make household goods such as a pouch, a spectacle case and a quilting pocket and a circular pattern, a cross pattern and a geometric pattern are shown in this kind of quilting. As for sewing method, half backstitch and full backstitch are used, and products made by this method are pouches stuffing pads in cotton or silk and quilting it finely to make patterns with various colored threads of stuffing cotton between linings and spectacle cases, a packet of needles and case of spoon and chopsticks which give various feelings according to arrangement of colors. Design of cultural products by applying the beauty of curves of hanbok, sleave-seam of jeogori, trimming line of dangeui. We expect that various cultural products with Korean traditional beauty and modern convenience will be developed continually by introducing the artistic strength of quilting with dyed thread to practical life.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.211-218
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• 2001

In this paper, various shapes of collar of the casual Korean dress at present are analyzed and are also surveyed the origins from which such designs are derived. Collars of the casual Korean dress are to be classified into Round-collar, Mokpan-collar, Dangco-collar, Knife-collar, Baja-collar, Danryoung-transfer-collar, Double-collar, Transfer-collar, and so on. Round-collar, Mokpan-collar, Dangco-collar, Knife-collar, Baja-collar, Danryoung-transfer-collar, Double-collar, Transfer-collar are motivated from the classical types of collar during the dynasty of the Choxian and adopted without any modifications. However, modifications to meet modern sense with the basic motif on the classical types of collar are applied to Transfer-collar where all kinds of collar shapes since ancient times are referred for modifications. In addition, collars such as Double-collar, Hi-neck-collar, which are not found in the classical Korean dress, could be said to be created only for the casual Korean dress From the above, it could be seen that most collars of the casual Korean dress are based on the shapes of the classical Korean dress. Therefore, it could be also confirmed that the casual Korean dress design has its identity originated from the classical Korean dress since the ancient times.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.19-30
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• 2019

The aim of this study is to analyze the stage of image change in Korean fashion design in regards to the simulacre of Jean Baudrillard. The changing phases of Korean fashion design are as follows: First, the initial stage involved simple imitation, which replicated the original as much as possible, it expressed the basic composition of Hanbok, flat cut and rich silhouette, the color scheme of traditional colors, traditional patterns, materials, and traditional ornaments. In the second stage, the subject matter intervened to distort and transform from the original, the basic composition and structure of the Hanbok were barely maintained, they were either removed or part of the structure modified or expressed using modern materials and patterns. The third stage, were based on reality but differed from reality through subject and imagination, and only left a part of the basic composition of Hanbok, and were expressed through the partial modification of the elements of the Hanbok, for instance the silhouette, skirt waist, collar and breast-tie. The fourth stage of pure simulacre, which refers to a new image with complete independence regardless of the reality. This stage differed from the basic structure and composition of Hanbok, and showcased traditional Korean image of Korea's unique cultural elements, such as hanbok or crafts and artworks, in a modern fashion with a modern sense and practicality.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.151-158
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to develop high-quality naturally dyed leisurewear with images of traditional Korean clothing that keeps a psychologically comfortable and physically pleasant environment at home and in vacation spots. The root bark of elm trees, the atopic skin, is also known to be effective for the relief of rhinitis and atopic diseases as well as stress and insomnia. However, there is insufficient color in the bark for the dyeing of fashion products, so to compensate for the lack of color, for dyeing purposes it was combined with a composite extract called Rubia akane Nakai resulting in a relatively bright red color. Except for the light fastness, all the fastnesses were rated 4 to 5, showing excellent results. Through complex dyeing using elm bark and pods extract the author produced four high-quality vests, one-piece, a gown, and jeogori-pantsuits of silk materials with Korean images that are suitable wear for relaxing comfortably at home and during breaks and which provide a comfortable and physically pleasant experience. The vest was made with the formal style of Bae-ja and Dang-eu, the dress is made of Cheok-lik, and the gown is made of Wonsam. It will be meaningful at a time when the importance of rest is increasing due to the healing clothes worn by busy modern people.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.157-174
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• 2013

This study aims to develop a proper face design for traditional fashion doll so that the Korean traditional doll can achieve its stand in the modern collection with the new face design based on researching documents, analyzing the examples and delivering a customer survey. The majority of dolls in traditional costume has an innocent look with inverted triangle shape face. But the inverted triangle or oval shape as well as the refined look of well balanced facial features are preferred. An oval face, elongated eyes with no double eyelid or inner double eyelid, plump lips and round and high nose are considered beautiful in the traditional figure. Based on this result, a new design is configured with an inverted triangular face with slightly plump cheeks, eyes with reduced eye, pupil and double eyelid, round nose without tuning up and small and full lower lip.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1112-1128
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to develop royal costume design with contemporary taste depending on the character of hero, Lee San, and time flow of TV historical drama and research design discrimination and creative expression. As study methods, the literature study using books and theses concerning costume, fine art, culture and history were used for theoretical background and the empirical study method manufacturing actual costume on the basis of literature and relic were used for dress manufacture. The design concept of costume was modern & chic & clean. The costume was designed through straight silhouette, clean & bright colors excluding prime colors, style transformed to permanent straight pleats on the basis of chulik, 100% silk material focusing on high quality and pattern & decoration of the age of Three Kingdoms. As results, the designs of princess' official rob, day dress and chulik, and emperor's official robe, chulik, military dress and chun-dam-bok were developed. The design discrimination depending on social status change. In the period of princess, black, white, silver and blue were used but in the period of emperor, red, gold and black were used. It was expressed through dragon pattern and extended length used in cloth. The design discrimination depending on character change was visualized through color. Although it is not consistent with historical investigation, contemporary fashion design elements were added to royal costume through color contrast of black & white, permanent straight pleats, velcore, wristlet, extended length and layered-look.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.1-14
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• 2015

This study mainly analyzes that designing patterns of an adult women Jeogori that takes advantage of patterns from each textbooks and complements the disadvantages based on the analysis of data from the dress evaluation and comparison of materials. The modification of a size specification is needed for the standard body as an adjust of the length of Jogori between front and back, mediation for bust width between front and back, a movement for the based line of Sup and Godae. As a result, the suitable pattern according to the standard somatotype is as below. Jeogori Length of front is determined by the length of back which was measured from side neck point to bust point plus three centimeters, and give three and half centimeters more in front. This three and half centimeters is for the curved in front of your body due to the chest. Bust width of front and back have to show the differences of human body. Bust width of front is calculated as bust girth into quarters and add two centimeters. Bust width of back gives one centimeter behind the curve from the center line in order to reduce the floating phenomenon. So, the amount of center back line dart is one centimeter. Arm hole girth measures as dividing bust girth into four. Also, Goedae width has two methods to measure. First, divide bust girth into ten equal parts and subtract 0.5 centimeters from it. Second, measure neck girth and divide it by four. Sleeve length is equal to Hwajang minus bust width of front. Hand wrist calculates in using bust girth. Make bust girth into quarters and multiply three fifths. Side line measures as deducting from Jeogori length of back to Arm hole girth and multiply two thirds.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.6
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• pp.1034-1044
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• 2016

This study seeks a method to objectively evaluate sensibility based on Big Data in the field of design. In order to do so, this study examined the sensibility responses on design factors for the public through a network analysis of texts displayed in social media. 'Hanbok', a formal clothing that represents Korea, was selected as the subject for the research methodology. We then collected 47,677 keywords related to Hanbok from 12,000 posts on Naver blogs from January $1^{st}$ to December $31^{st}$ 2015 and that analyzed using social matrix (a Big Data analysis software) rather than using previous survey methods. We also derived 56 key-words related to design elements and sensibility responses of Hanbok. Centrality analysis and CONCOR analysis were conducted using Ucinet6. The visualization of the network text analysis allowed the categorization of the main design factors of Hanbok with evaluation terms that mean positive, negative, and neutral sensibility responses. We also derived key evaluation factors for Hanbok as fitting, rationality, trend, and uniqueness. The evaluation terms extracted based on natural language processing technologies of atypical data have validity as a scale for evaluation and are expected to be suitable for utilization in an index for sensibility evaluation that supplements the limits of previous surveys and statistical analysis methods. The network text analysis method used in this study provides new guidelines for the use of Big Data involving sensibility evaluation methods in the field of design.