• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.29 no.7 s.144
• /
• pp.909-917
• /
• 2005

Based on the theory that formation of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers is related to Mobius strip, this study researches correlation between distinctive construction of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers and historical background based on old documents and restoration. Distinctive construction of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers are as follows. First, Korean Men's Traditional Trousers is manufactured just like Principle of Mobius strip that the square is twisted once, considering its materials' conditions. Second, Korean Men's Traditional Trousers, manufactured larger, feature cubic effect and twisted formative beauty because its waist and ankle parts are tightened with bands. Third, Korean Men's Traditional Trousers, composed of big Sapok and small Sapok in oblique, are suitable for active play due to its high functionality.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.39 no.10
• /
• pp.97-109
• /
• 2001

It is thought that a composition of trousers is related to fabrics with single breadth. Therefore, trousers are designed with pattern using this fabrics with single breadth. However, in the old pattern of trousers, the breadth of 33cm-35cm was not considered in designing patterns. In this context, deciding which pattern design is better is not easy as there are a variety of estimation methods. So in this study, standardization of drafting is pursued by an objective pattern design. For this, a base angle of the trouser closely relating to a form and function was measured and using the height and the base angle, a trouser pattern design was tried. For a measurement of the base angle, 5 subject were selected. They are 25-29 year-old male graduates with fine physical standard. The base angle was measured with symphysis pubis point as a standard when subjects sat with their legs crossed, when they stood with their legs open (not forced artificially) and when they laid down with their legs open. The distance between a knee inside joint and knees was measured three times and the resultant value was used for the pattern design. For a design of trousers, the height was applied and the base angle was fixed. As a pattern drawing, using the height, a base angle and circumference of the hip, a trouser was designed. The production method for the pattern design is as follow: (1) The length formula, is height + $\frac{height}{2}$ (2) The hip girth formula is $\frac{hipgirth}{2}$ - $\frac{hipgirth}{20}$(3) A crotch angle is fixed at $72^{\circ}$. (4) The ratio of outer leg length to leg width is 5 : 8. (5) The component ratio of the upper outer leg length to the pant length is 5 : 8. (6) The ratio of the division point of front right inner leg length and left inner width to upper outer leg length is 5 : 8.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.1
• /
• pp.159-167
• /
• 2009

Based on instructions in the textbook "How to Construct Korean Costumes" which I authored, my university students were required to make Pungcha-Baji(Korean traditional pants for children) for one-year-old boys. While examining the students' construction, I found that the side seams of the vest and pants did not line up but were improperly twisted. It was found that the pants did not cover the child's backside because the width of the back was smaller than the width of the front when one of the side panels and the large center panel in the front was half the size of the hip and one of the side panels and the small panel in the back was four fifths of half the size of the hip. Although there were differences between the waist size of the pants and the bottom hem of the vest, the textbooks instruct that the amount of material and the number of pleats(i.e. 4 pleats) on the pants and the vest should be the same. Finding this mistake led me to investigate Pungcha-Baji construction in related textbooks. Thus with the textbook instruction, the side seams of the pants and the vest do not match and are improperly twisted. Hence, as a solution, the pleats should be made and adjusted after matching the side seams of the pants and the vest. The purpose of this study is to examine currently available Pungcha-Baji related textbooks and determine the correctness of their instructions and to ultimately provide correct construction methods for Pungcha-Baji pattern for academic purposes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.11 no.3
• /
• pp.367-374
• /
• 2003

When analyzing forms in the human body and clothes, we conceptualize each part into a cone, sphere, and cylinder, and the esthetic characteristics of our fashion culture and esthetic fashion characteristics of Koreans are composed by expressing with universal images such as circle, square, and triangle when forms are expressed in a plane. To determine how the structural principle of shapes that are the shapes of all things and basic to geometry, i.e., circle, square, and triangle, applies to clothes that cloth our body called the small cosmos, we discussed the symbolic meaning hidden inside the structure of Korean clothes based on the basic pattern drafting method of Korean men’s traditional trousers. We drew the conclusion that Korean men's trousers composed of circles, triangles, and squares express the five elements diagram through their plane structure, are designed in circles with cones and pyramids, and are made to well express the principle of the small cosmos of our body. Moreover, when the basic pattern of Korean men’s trousers explained with the antipathy diagram is viewed to create all things while maintaining opposite and complementary relationship with Sangsang (mutually benefitting factor), it would be correct to say that the principle of the top verse the bottom is viewed as conflicting. From the structural point of view, since the philosophy of the Samsu principle (the principle of 1, 2 and 3 in which 1 represents the heaven, 2 represents the earth, and 3 represents the people) is hidden in Korean men's trousers in which Hurimalgi (the part of trousers corresponding to the waist band of Western pants) is the circle representing the heaven, Marupok is the square representing the earth, and Sapok is the triangle representing the people, we could look at deep meaning of our ancestors expressed in our clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.53 no.5
• /
• pp.97-110
• /
• 2003

This study was done to investigate the wearing experience, the taste and attitudes toward Korean Costume(Traditional and Saenghwal Hanbok). Data were collected by self-administered question from 307 elementary school children and 307 mother during 7, 2002. Conclusions are as follows : 1. Hanbok was worn mainly in the first birthday of children and 6∼7years old. But it was rarely worn in 4th∼6th grade of elementary school. Most of children had worn the Traditional Hanbok, about 30% had worn the Saenghwal Hanbok. 2. Childrens liked Saenghwal Hanbok more than Traditional Hanbok, girls liked Hanbok more than boys did. And 31.4% of boys disliked Hanbok, the main motives for dislike were concerned with the discomfort to move, the feel of cloth and becoming. Boys prefered the style of ´vest/ Jeokori/ Bajii´ in Traditional Hanbok, and ´half-sleeve Jeokori/ Baji´ in Saenghwal Hanbok. Girls prefered the style of ´Dangeui/ Chima´ in Traditional Hanbok, and ´One piece/ Jeokori´ in Saenghwal Hanbok. Childrens prefered analogous color scheme to contrasting color scheme. Boys prefered the blue groups, girls prefered the orange and red groups. 3. Childrens had more positive attitudes towards Saenghwal Hanbok than Traditional Hanbok. Mothers had positive attitudes towards both these types. And the attitudes toward Saenghwal Hanbok and Traditional Hanbok of childrens were more positive than mother´s. Therefore the following suggestions may be proposed for the development of Hanbok for children. 1. Hanbok is need to be designed considering activity, feeling and becomingness for teenagers. 2. Hanbok design must be kept seperated Traditional Hanbok and Saenghwal Hanbok. Traditional Hanbok is need to emphases tradition, Saenghwal Hanbok is need to apply a western style and have a practical use.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.47
• /
• pp.61-72
• /
• 1999

For the establishment of ready made Hanbok for the people in their 20's this study aims to develope Bagi-chogori pattern that revives the esthetic quality of the traditional Hanbok as well as comfortably fit the body. Direct method was used in Measuring the 33 parts of men which was selected as items needed for the analysis of the body and the development of patterns. In accordance with the body measurement and the analysis of the result the bust girth and height which has interrelation was chosen as the standard size for the development of pattern. Men's Baji-chogori(Korean traditional Jacket and Pants) which doesn't request fitness for instance we drew out a cross table by giving 5cm intervals each for breast waist hip girth and height. Size system of Baji-chogori was 4 steps. 1st was bust 95cm height 165cm 2nd was bust girth 95cm height 170cm 3rd was bust girth 100cm height 175cm and the 4th was bust girth 105cm height 180cm. In the case of Men the grouping of bodies was attempted by concentrating on the difference of the drop amount(Bust girth to hip girth), However 90% of men in their 20's showed a silhouette of an inverted triangle. Therefore attempt for an additional grouping wasn's Only calculation concerning the ease amount of items such as bust which and length was considered to enhance the silhouette of Hanbok when worn. Men's body for instance have a tendency to change to a rectangular shape as they get older. specially the abdominal girth trend to increase greatly. So study and development of pattern should be made for all age groups.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.35 no.4
• /
• pp.95-110
• /
• 1997

According to the design method for constructing the crotch angle of traditional Korean men's trousers there are differences in from after its completion. Since there is no standardization of visual & aesthetic pattern for the construction method which is stablished by the calculation formular of waist girth hip girth pantleg end and upper outer leg length it is difficult to be used for educational use or for teaching materials. Therefore the purpose of this project according to five models in proportion to the physical standard of Korea in ages from 24 to 29 years old is to establish a design criterion and the standardization of construction methods by introduction the pant construction method of the crotch angle by converting the sitting posture length to seaming crotch center point both knees width in the Korean way of sitting. The production method for the pattern design is as follow: (1) The waist girth formular is {{{{ { w} over {4 } }}}}+{{{{ {w} over {10 } }}}}(2) The hip girth formular is {{{{ {H } over { 4} }}}}+{{{{ {H } over {5 } }}}}(3) The pantleg end formular is {{{{ {H } over {4 } }}}}(4) A crotch angle is fixed at 70 degress.(5) The ratio of outer leg length to leg width is 5:8 (6) The component ratio of the upper outer leg length to the pant length in 5:8(7) The ratio of the division point of front / right inner leg length and left inner leg width to upper outer leg length is 5 : 8

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.52 no.3
• /
• pp.149-160
• /
• 2002

Symbolism found in a certain object inherits characteristics from the culture that contains the objects. The purpose of this study was investigate the formative beauty of Korean trousers twisted the pieces together based on the way of Korean thinks and the Topology. The shape is formed by cutting from the fabric. From the perspective of semiology, the fabric and the pattern shape correspond to ground and figure. Ground and figure are identical with the principle of the whole and the part, which is the same in Korea, China, and the West. But In Korea, the 3-dimensional garment is made by adding a twist. This is very important and defines the difference in the way of thinking and topology. Korean trousers consist of three parts : Hury, Marupok, and Sapok. The small Sapok can be made by removing the Marupok and large Sapok (figure) from the fabric (ground) when making Korean trousers. A Mobius strip is made when the large Sapok is adjoined with the small Sapok by reversing the small Sapok, making a 180$^{\circ}$twist and then stitching together. The theory of Mobius strip can be applied in Joining Bajiburi. thus when the trousers are completed the Klein's bottle is seen because of the 2 existing Mobius strop. The theory of Mobius strip can be applied in Joining Bajiburi, thus when the trousers are completed the Klein's bottle is seen because of the 2 existing Mobius strip. Hury is cylinder while the small and large Sapok make up the Mobius strip. As a result, Mobius strip, Kleins'bottle, protective plan can be applied in cutting Hanbok used in the countryside, so I have come to see that the traditional Korean way of thinking is closely related to the theory of topological.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.13 no.2 s.30
• /
• pp.146-154
• /
• 1989

The purpose of this study was to develop a computer program for pattern making of man's Korean traditional trousers (Hanbok Baji). The IBM-PC/AT Computer was used in this study. The procedures of the study were as follows. 1. Basic pattern of Hanbok Baji was selected. 2. Co-ordinate points were instituted for indicate of relative location of all necessary points in drafting. 3. A program for drafting was developed. 4. The pattern of Baji for man's Hanbok was automatically design by inputting individual body measurement (trouser length and hip girth). 5. Grading of standard size was accomplished by using same method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.15
• /
• pp.21-45
• /
• 1990

The purpose of this thesis is to study the method of the reasonable pattern design. The studying method is based on the original principle of the trousers' cutting and I have a hypothesis about the trousers pattern which should be proved. When I selected the practical method, I made use of the international measuring rule, graph paper and tracing paper, in order to prove the new pattern design. The reasonable pattern design should be the one of the suitable original principles to be suited in the design through any measurement. Therefore, I have discussed the above mentioned design. I find out the conclusion to prove the hypothesis of pattern design with the experimental measure after showing the above mentiond design. The characteristics is as follows. First : To be convinient when walking, because of little degree as folding of the front part of trousers with the under-angle. Second : To be suitable in proportion to the length of trousers and the under-angle. Third ; When folding the center line of the Sapok (a name of one of the trousers parts), the length of the Sapoks is same and harmonized with the Sapoks because of the same angle of both Sapoks in any case of the measurement. Fourth : No correction of the lines when dressing, for the same points of the large Sapok and the small one. Fifth : To be easiness of the pattern design through the concrete measurement. I could find out a little extent errors of pattern showings, an easiness of dressing, scientification of formation in Korean trousers and standard of the practical measurement in the program to be presented as the result of studying.