• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.853-865
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• 2019

In this study, the skin permeability was measured by adding skin penetrating peptides, arginine oligomers R4(tetra-D-arginine), R6(hexa-D-arginine) to little skin-permeable wrinkle improvement peptides GHK, GHK-Cu, and Pal-GHK liposomes, and the results were analyzed by the following six cases. (1) In cases where only wrinkle improvement peptides GHK, GHK-Cu, and Pal-GHK were contained liposomes; the final cumulative permeations in 24 hours were 6.05%, 7.4%, and 8.83% respectively. (2) In cases where arginine oligomers R4, R6 were added to GHK liposomes; the final cumulative permeations in 24 hours were 13.63% and 7.68%. (3) In cases where R4, R6 were added to GHK-Cu liposomes; the final cumulative permeations in 24 hours were 15.46% and 8.64%. (4) In cases where R4, R6 were added to Pal-GHK liposomes; the final cumulative permeations in 24 hours were 16.9% and 10.67%. (5) In cases where R4 were added to GHK, GHK-Cu, and Pal-GHK liposomes; the final cumulative permeations in 24 hours were 13.63%, 15.46%, and 16.9% respectively. (6) In cases where R6 were added to GHK, GHK-Cu, and Pal-GHK liposomes; the final cumulative permeations in 24 hours were 7.68%, 8.64%, and 10.67% respectively. This experiment showed that skin absorption of GHK was increased by copper ion (Cu2+) and palmitic acid and skin absorption of wrinkle improvement peptides was enhanced by cell penetrating peptides, and R4 showed higher effect than R6 in GHK, GHK-Cu and Pal-GHK. Through this process, we propose broad use and application in wrinkle improvement functional cosmetics by presenting the optimal conditions for increasing skin absorption of GHK, GHK-Cu, thus maximizing its efficacy.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.29-35
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• 2020

In this study, the skin permeability was measured by adding cell penetrating peptides, arginine oligomers; (tetra-D-arginine (R4) and hexa-D-arginine (R6)) to little skin-permeable anti-wrinkle peptides (GHK, GHK-Cu, and Pal-GHK), and the results were analyzed by the following six cases. First, in cases where only anti-wrinkle peptides were contained, copper ions (Cu₂⁺) and palmitic acid enhanced the transdermal permeability. Second, when arginine oligomers (R4, R6) were added to GHK, arginine oligomers (R4, R6) increased percutaneous permeability, and R4 showed better percutaneous permeability. Third, the addition of R4 and R6 to GHK-Cu resulted in increased percutaneous transmittance, followed by R6 < R4 percutaneous transmittance. Fourth, when R4 and R6 were added to Pal-GHK, the percutaneous permeability increased with results in R6 < R4 order. Fifth, when R4 was added to GHK, GHK-Cu, and Pal-GHK, the transdermal permeability increased in the order of GHK+R4 < GHK-Cu+R4 < Pal-GHK+R4. Finally, the addition of R6 to GHK, GHK-Cu and Pal-GHK also resulted in increased percutaneous transmittance in the order of GHK+R4 < GHK-Cu+R4 < Pal-GHK+R4. This study provides optimal conditions for enhancing skin absorption of anti-wrinkle peptides GHK, GHK-Cu, and Pal-GHK, and propose a wide range of applications in anti-wrinkle functional cosmetics by suggesting ways to maximize their efficacy.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.265-275
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• 2019

This study was conducted to investigate physiological activity and its skin permeability of Petroselinum crispum extract using polymer micelles and cell penetrating peptide. In the antioxidant test, the total concentrations of polyphenol compounds were determined to be $121.68{\pm}2.49mg/g$ (for ethanol extract and), $72.42{\pm}1.52mg/g$ (for hydrothermal extract.). The DPPH radical scavenging ability was $90.48{\pm}0.46%$ (for ethanol extract) and $83.92{\pm}0.13%$ (for hydrothermal extract) at 2000 mg/L. ABTS radical scavenging ability was $91.08{\pm}0.14%$ for ethanol extract ethanol extract, which is higher than that of hydrothermal extract at 800 mg/L ($69.63{\pm}0.55%$). In the SOD experiments, the P. crispum ethanol extract showed higher SOD activity than that of the P. crispum hydrothermal extract at all concentrations.. At a concentration of 16,000 mg/L, P. crispum ethanol extract showed the highest SOD activity of $128.45{\pm}0.70%$. The elastase inhibitory assay also showed concentration dependence and elastase inhibition of P. crispum ethanol extract was $99.99{\pm}1.54%$, which was the highest at 2,000 mg/L. To solve the problem of insolubility and to improve skin permeability of the extract, PCL-PEG polymer micelle containing P. crispum ethanol extracts and 1% cell permeable peptide, hexa-D-arginine (R6) were successfully prepared with a particle size of 40.10 nm. In the results of 24 hours of skin permeation experiment, total accumulated beta-carotene amounts showed $37.99{\mu}g/cm^2$ in Petroselinum crispum extracts and $68.38{\mu}g/cm^2$ (1.8 times) in P. crispum extract of the particles.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.685-699
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• 2019

Antioxidant, antibacterial, and skin penetration tests were conducted to investigate the skin absorption of Pyrus serotina var leaf extracts using polymer micelles and their applicability to cosmetic ingredients. Total polyphenol content was found to be $118.83{\pm}9.39mg/g$ in Pyrus serotina var leaf ethanol extract and $106.89{\pm}4.45mg/g$ in Pyrus serotina var leaf hydrothermal extract. The DPPH radical scavenging activity was found to be the highest radical scavenging activity of $74.39{\pm}7.48%$ of the Pyrus serotina var leaf ethanol extract at the concentration of 500 mg/L. The SOD-like activity was $91.62{\pm}0.43%$, the highest value at the concentration of 1,000 mg/L in the hydrothermal extract. After the experiment, antioxidation, wrinkle improvement and whitening activity were confirmed, and the Pyrus serotina var leaf extract was highly likely to be realized as antioxidant and antibacterial material. In the skin penetration experiment with the Pyrus serotina var leaf ethanol extract, the permeation amount of total accumulated tannic acid was found to be Formulation 2 ($55.45{\mu}g/cm^2$), Formulation 1 ($46.43{\mu}g/cm^2$), Formulation 0 ($34.36{\mu}g/cm^2$). In the liposome's skin penetration experiment containing pear leaf hydrothemal extract, the total amount of accumulated tannic acid permeation was found to be Formulation 5 ($75.01{\mu}g/cm^2$), Formulation 4 ($64.01{\mu}g/cm^2$) and Formulation 3 ($36.60{\mu}g/cm^2$). Through this study, we confirmed the possibility of antioxidant and wrinkle effects of Pyrus serotina var leaf extract. In addition, as a result of skin penetration through the production of polymer micelles and liposome containing Pyrus serotina var leaf extract, It will be more usable in cosmetic industry.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.271-282
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• 2019

This study was conducted to evaluate physiological activity of Robinia pseudo-acacia leaf and its skin penetration using polymer micelles and skin penetrating peptide. After extraction with Robinia pseudo-acacia using the ethanol and distilled water, various physiological activities were examined. The total concentration of polyphenol compounds was determined to be 47.42 mg/g (ethanol extract), 56.88 mg/g (hydrothermal extract) and DPPH radical scavenging ability at $1,000{\mu}g/mL$ was 44.24% in ethanol extract and it is higher than value(41.50%) in hydrothermal extract. The elastase inhibitory assay showed concentration dependence and elastase inhibition of Robinia pseudo acacia leaf ethanol extract was 54.09%, which was the highest at $500{\mu}g/mL$. In the SOD-like experiments, the concentration-dependent results were showed and the SOD-like activity of the Robinia pseudo-acacia leaf ethanol extract was higher than that of the Robinia pseudo acacia leaf hydrothermal extract at all concentrations. At a concentration of $500{\mu}g/mL$, Robinia pseudo acacia leaf ethanol extract showed the highest SOD-like activity of 76.41%. The tyrosinase inhibition at $20{\mu}g/mL$ was determined to be 56.47% (ethanol extract), 23.05% (hydrothermal extract). In the antimicrobial experiments, the hydrothermal extract had no effect, but ethanol extract represented maximum clear zone of 11.00 mm in Propionbacterium acnes strain and maximum clear zone of 10.50 mm. in Bacillus subtilis strain. To solve the problem of insolubility and to improve skin penetration, PCL-PEG polymer micelles containing Robinia pseudo-acacia leaf ethanol extracts and 1.0% cell permeable peptide, hexa-D-arginine (R6) were successfully prepared with particle size of 108.23 and 126.47 nm and excellent skin permeation effects could be showed.