• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.40-79
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• 1998

기초화장품의 연구 방향은 환경 요인과 심리적 요인의 다양화에 따라 단순 기능에서 고기능을 추구하며 기능의 세분화 방향으로 변화되고 있다. 피부 노화 현상에 대한 관심이 점점 높아짐에 따라 최근 유전자 레벨에서의 연구, 피부대사에 대한 연구 등의 활발하며 특히 피부 미백에 대한 관점은 서양에서 조차 관심의 대상이 되고 있다. 본 논문에서는 최근의 노화 방지제 개발을 중심으로 한 피부 노화 화장품, 분자 모델적 측면에서 본 피부 미백제 개발등과 최근 연구되는 계면활성제 Free 등의 화장품 제재를 중심으로 기초 화장품 영역의 향후 연구 발전 방향을 논의하고자 한다.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.417-423
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• 2015

Oil-in-water(o/w) nanoemulsions were prepared in the system of water/Span 80-Tween 80/long-chain paraffin oil via PIC method. With the increase of preparation temperature from 30 oC to 80 oC, the diameter of emulsion droplets decreased from 150 nm to 40 nm. By varying the HLB of mixed surfactants, we found that there was an optimum HLB around 13.0~14.0 corresponding to the minimum droplet size. The size of emulsion droplets increased upon increasing the ratio of oil/emulsifying agent. At $f{\leq}0.15$, the size of nanoemulsions could be kept constant more than 2 months. The increase in preparation temperature makes it possible for producing monodisperse nanoemulsions. Once the nanoemulsion is produced, the stability against Ostwald ripening is outstanding due to the extremely low solubility of the liquid paraffin oil in the continuous phase.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.77-127
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• 1999

활성 산소종은 노화, 특히 피부노화의 원인 물질로 작용하고 있다. 피부는 자외선에 노출되어 있어 활성 산소종을 만드는 광화학적 반응들이 계속해서 일어나고 있다. 이들 활성 산소종들은 피부 세포 및 조직 손상을 주도한다. 이들은 항산화 효소와 비효소적 항산화제들로 구성된 항산화 방어망을 파괴함으로써 산화제/항산화제 균형을 산화 상태 쪽으로 기울게 한다. 결과적으로 계속된 산화적 스트레스는 지질 과산화, 단백질 산화, 간질 성분을 파괴시키는 단백질분해효소의 활성화, 탄력 섬유인 콜라겐과 엘라스틴의 사슬절단 및 비정상적인 교차결합, 히아루론산 사슬의 절단, 멜라닌 생성반웅 촉진, DNA 산화와 같은 생체 구성 성분들의 손상을 야기시킨다. 결국에는 탄력감수 주름살 및 기미.주근깨 둥으로 특징 지워지는 피부노화가 가속화된다. 따라서 피부노화 방지를 위해서는, 과잉의 활성 산소종 생성을 억제하고 또한 생성된 활성산소를 효율적으로 제거할 수 있는 시스템이 화장품의 처방에 반드시 포함될 필요가 있다. 즉, 산화제/항산화제 밸런스가 유지되는 피부의 항산화 방어 시스템 구축이 필요하다. 피부노화 방지에 있어서 천연물의 역할로 (1) 자외선 흡수제로서의 역할, (2) 항산화제로서의 역할, (3) 주름 개선제로서의 역할, (4) 미백제로서의 역할, (5) 항균\ulcorner항염작용 및면역 조절제로서의 역할에 대하여 살펴 보았다. 21세기는 본격적으로 기능성 화장품 시대가 개막될 것으로 예측하고 있다. 이에 맞춰 천연물들은 피부노화를 방지하는데 주도적인 역할을 할 것으로 기대된다.

• Journal of Convergence for Information Technology
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.199-205
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• 2021

This study was done to evaluate the dermatoxicity of zinc sulfate (ZnSO4) and the protective effect of Rubus parvifolius L. (RP) extract on cytotoxicity of ZnSO4, mordant in cultured SK-MEL-3 cells. For this study, it was done an antioxidative effect as DPPH-radical scavenging ability as well as the diminutive ability of total melanin with cell viability. ZnSO4 significantly decreased cell viability in dose-dependently, and it was mid-toxic. The ascorbic acid significantly increased cell viability damaged by ZnSO4-induced cytotoxicity. In the protective effect of RP extract on ZnSO4-induced cytotoxicity, RP extract significantly increased cell viability compared with ZnSO4-treated group, and also it showed both the DPPH-radical scavenging ability and the decrease of total amount of melanin. From these findings, the cytotoxicity of ZnSO4 is correlated with oxidative stress, and also RP extract effectively protected ZnSO4-induced cytotoxicity via antioxidative effect such as DPPH-radical scavenging ability with the whitening effect by the decrement of total amount of melanin. Conclusively, the natural ingredients like RP extract may be a useful agent for the improvement of antioxidative and whitening effects

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.183-189
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• 2013

This study was performed to investigate the whitening effects of Lactobacillus rhamnosus in addition to its antioxidative activities. The cytotoxicity of the Lactobacillus rhamnosus was 7.6% at 10.0% (v/v) concentration. Its cytotoxicity was lower than 3.2% of Lactobacillus casei when adding the same concentration. Lactobacillus rhamnosus exhibited high antioxidative activities at 14.9% of DPPH radical scavenging activity, and a lower reducing power was measured. Lactobacillus casei exhibited relatively lower antioxidative activities at 13.4%. The tyrosinase inhibition activity of Lactobacillus rhamnosus was observed at 31.3% when adding 10.0% (v/v), as compared to 17.7% for Lactobacillus casei. Lactobacillus rhamnosus demonstrated strong inhibition activity for melanin synthesis at 58.6% when adding 10.0% (v/v), while Lactobacillus casei increased to 80.6%. It was also observed that the high antioxidative activities of Lactobacillus rhamnosus were strongly correlated to whitening activities, due to the inhibition of both tyrosinase and melanin synthesis. These results support the expanded use of lactic acid bacteria as a functional bioresources in the cosmetics industry.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.123-128
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• 2004

Numerous novel ingredients have been introduced for the higher functionality of whitening cosmetics. Through the preliminary research, we have found Trichosanthes kirilowii root, Prunella vulgaris leaf and Clematis chinensis root have high whitening efficacy. But they are insoluble. Moreover the discoloration of and decrease in content take place when they are exposed to light, heat or oxygen. From Trichosanthes kirilowii root, Prunella vulgaris leaf and Clematis chinensis root, efficacious ingredients were ethanol-extracted by heating to 75∼85$^{\circ}C$ for 6∼8 h. These extracts have the inhibitory activity of tyrosinase and B16 melanin formation, thus enhancing whitening effect. We made liposomes using propylene glycol (PG)/hydrogenated lecithin/middle chain triglycerides (MCT)/glycerin/water and microfuidizer to stabilize extracts. The stability against heat and light was enhanced by 3∼5 times compared with untreated extracts. Particle size analyzer, freeze fracture transmission electron microscopy (FF-TEM), chromameter and HPLC are used for the analysis.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.327-335
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• 2011

5,4'-dihydroxystilbene-3-O-${\beta}$-D-glucopyranoside (Polydatin) is one of the stilbenes found in Polygonum cuspidatum (P. cuspidatum), however, the effects of polydatin on skin biology remain to be elucidated. In this study, we obtained polydatin from P. cuspidatum and investigated the effects of polydatin in skin-derived melanocytes and fibroblasts. In melanocytes, polydatin inhibited not only the tyrosinase activity and melanin production but the expression of melanogenic factors, tyrosinase and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). In addition, the level of type I procollagen in fibroblasts was analyzed, and polydatin significantly induced the production of type I procollagen in a dose-dependent manner. Finally we conformed that topical treatment of polydatin improved wrinkle and induced whitening of human skin in vivo. These data provide evidence that polydatin can be a potent candidate for the improvement of both skin wrinkle and whitening from the point of industry view.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.72-81
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• 2008

The effect of genistein on melanin synthesis was studied using in vitro and in vivo model. Genistein inhibited melanin synthesis in cultured melan-a cells dose dependently. Tyrosinase activity was decreased by genistein treatment in melan-a cells, but genistein did not inhibit tyrosinase directly. Genistein did not affect the expression of tyrosinase in melan-a cells. Genistein inhibited the activity of ${\alpha}$-glucosidase in virtro and the glycosylation of tyrosinase in melan-a cells. The resulting unsaturated glycosylation of tyrosinase makes it unstable and disturb correct transportation. To further clarify the effect of genistein on the melanogenesis, we established UVB-induced hyperpigmentation on the shaved backs of brown guinea pigs. The animals were exposed to UVB radiation once a week for three consecutive weeks. Genistein (1 and 2%) or vehicle alone as a control were then topically applied to the hyperpigmented areas daily. Genistein showed significant lightening effect on the UVB-induced hyperpigmentation in five weeks. Depigmenting effect was prominent in 2% genistein treatment with Fontana-Masson staining. In conclusion, genistein may be a useful agent for skin whitening.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.37 no.1
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• pp.28-37
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• 2020

Ginseng berry contains a large amount of Ginsenoside Re and has anti-inflammatory, anticancer, hypoglycemic and whitening effects. In this study, Rhizopus Oligosporus strain was used to establish ginseng berry fermentation process and cosmetic pharmacological activity of ginseng berry fermented product was analyzed.. The electron donating ability of ginseng berry extract by fermentation shown 81% at 1,000 ㎍/mL concentration. The ABTS⁺ radical scavenging ability of shown 100.2% at 1,000 ㎍/mL concentration. The tyrosinase inhibitory effect which is related to skin-whitening, was 57% at the concentration of 1,000 ㎍/mL. The elastase inhibitory effect which is related to skin-wrinkle, was 47% at 1,000 ㎍/mL concentration. Also, the collagenase inhibition effect was 33% at 1,000 ㎍/mL concentration. From these results, ginseng berry extracts by fermentation is considered to have anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle effect and whitening effect. Therefor, ginseng berry fermented product is expected to be very useful as an anti-inflammatory and anti-aging cosmetic raw material.

• The Journal of Korean Obstetrics and Gynecology
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.14-34
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• 2016

Objectives: The objective of this study was to evaluate the effects of cytotoxicity, skin regeneration, anti-wrinkle, whitening and skin moisturizing of Oncheongeum (OCE).Methods: The cytotoxicity of OCE lyophilized aqueous extracts (yield=13.82%) was observed against human normal fibroblast cells and B16/F10 murine melanoma cells by 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium Bromide (MTT) assay, and skin regeneration and anti-wrinkle effects were also evaluated through the assay of collagen type I synthesis compared to the transformation of the growth factor (TGF)-β1, hyaluronidase, collagenase and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 inhibitory assays compared to oleanolic acid (OA), and elastase inhibitory effects compared to phosphoramidon disodium salt (PP). In addition, OCE’s whitening effects were measured by a tyrosinase inhibitory assay and melanin formation test in B16/F10 murine melanoma cells compared to arbutin, and skin moisturizing effects were observed through a mouse skin water content test, respectively. Results: No OCE treatment-related cytotoxic effects appeared on human normal fibroblasts and B16/F10 murine melanoma cells. OCE concentration-dependently increased the collagen Type I synthesis on human normal fibroblast cells, and also effectively inhibited hyaluronidase, elastase, collagenase and MMP-1 activities. In addition, OCE inhibited melanin production of B16/F10 murine melanoma cells and activity of tyrosinase. And significant and dose-dependent increases of skin water content were detected in OCE-treated mouse skin compared to vehicle control skins. Conclusions: OCE showed favorable and sufficient effects in skin regeneration, anti-wrinkle, whitening and skin moisturizing in this experiment. But more detail mechanisms and studies on the skin protective efficiency of in vivo are needed with the screening of active biological compounds in individual OCE herbs.