• Journal of KIISE
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• v.42 no.7
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• pp.846-851
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• 2015

Seas and swells are basic wave types in ocean surface simulation and are very important elements in the simulation of ocean background. In this paper, we propose a real-time simulation method, for reproducing realistic seas and swells, to be used in real-time simulators such as ship maneuvering simulators. Seas and swells have different visual properties. Swells have relatively longer wavelengths and round crests compared with seas, therefore they are visualized globally with large meshes and procedural methods. Parameters to illustrate swells are extracted from ocean wave spectra. Conversely, seas have shorter wavelengths and their characteristics are only clearly apparent near to the observation point. Here, we present visualization of seas based on a statistical wave model using ocean wave spectra, which provides realistic results in a reactively small area.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.20-33
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• 1999

The evolution of deep-sea waves is driven by energy input from wind, nonlinear energy transfer between wave components, and dissipation through whitecaps. A comparative study was implemented by the use of two wave models in which only the computation methods of nonlinear wave-wave interactions are different from each other. It was reaffirmed that the nonlinear interaction plays a central role in such phenomena that occurred during the spectral growth of wind-seas as down-shift of the spectral peak frequency, overshoot, undershoot, and formation of self-similar spectrum. Specifically, the directional distribution at high frequencies develops into bimodal form, which is attributed to the nonlinear interactions. As saturation stage is reached, spectral density at high frequencies becomes proportional to negative 4 power to the frequency. Perturbations introduced into the spectrum quickly vanished through the actions of the self-similar mechanism. Thus, the nonlinear transfer has important contribution to the stability of numerical ocean wave models.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.39-52
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• 2000

The triad interactions have been known to be important only for shoaling waves or finite depth wind waves. In deep water, they are insignificant compared with the quadruplet interactions in respect to the evolution of wind waves due to energy transfer among the wave components. However, the triad interactions may be important even for deep water waves because they may closely be related to the wave steepness, which definitely affects wave breaking, drag of air flow over t.'Ie sea, or navigation of ships, especially during the early stage of the development of wind waves. This study reports a series of laboratory experiments, whose data are subjected to bispectral analyses to investigate the triad interactions of deep-water wind waves. It is found that the bicoherence at the spectral peak frequency and the wave steepness are almost directly proportional, indicating that the steep waves with peaked crests and flat troughs are resulted from the triad interactions. Both bicoherence and wave steepness increase with the wave age during the early stage of wave generation and then drop off as the waves grow old. It seems that the energy of the secondary spectral peak developed by the triad interactions during the early stage of wave generation is redistributed to the neighboring frequencies by the quadruplet interactions during the later stage.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.422-432
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• 2013

A System Identification method to develop parametric models linking free surface elevation and wave pressure is presented and two models are built allowing for either wave pressure or free surface elevation simulation. Linear, time invariant model structures with static nonlinearities are assumed and solutions are sought in a form of autoregressive model with extra input (ARX). An arbitrary chosen free-surface elevation and wave pressure dataset is used for estimation of the models, which are subsequently verified against datasets with similar pressure gauge depth but different free-surface elevation spectra due to different meteorological conditions. It is shown that free-surface simulation using System Identification methods can perform better than traditional linear transfer function derived from linear wave theory (LTF), while wave pressure simulation quality using presented methods is generally similar to that obtained with corrected LTF.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.7-19
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• 1999

The energy transfer between sea-wave components by way of nonlinear wave-wave interactions plays a central role in spectral evolution. Since huge calculation time is required to exact computation of the resulting Boltzmann integral, however, the exact nonlinear energy transfer has not been directly introduced into operational wave models. Thus, effective calculation methods were examined in the present study which exploit the scale property of a scattering coefficient and the detailed balance of interactions. The improved Webb's method (IWM) has inherent stability because singularities degenerate into a negligible point. The improved Masuda's method (IMM) makes a quasi-analytical treatment of the inherent singularities and requires only 1.3 seconds of computer time via Pentium 300MHz processor. The IMM is, therefore, projected to be very useful for theoretical researches in spectral evolution with fetch- or duration-limited situations.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1992.08a
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• pp.83-83
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• 1992

풍파가 수심이 불규칙하고 조류 및 해류 등의 흐름이 존재하는 연안역을 전파해 갈 때 파고 및 파향이 굴절ㆍ회절 및 천수, 에너지 감쇠 효과 등에 의해 크게 변형된다. 이러한 현상은 연안역의 파랑변형 계산 및 퇴적물이동현상 분석에 매우 중요하다. 불규칙파의 스펙트럼 형태와 에너지의 방향 분산 정도에 따라 단순 규칙파 모델과의 계산치가 50-100%에 이르기도 한다.(중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.72-80
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• 1994

A discrete spectral model of wind waves for arbitrary depth and current is presented This model incorporates wave growth. decay by opposite int bottom friction and wave-current interaction. Depth dependent factor was also added to the fully developed spectrum in order to consider finite depth effects. The physical behavior for the effect of depth and bottom friction was analyzed for an artificially-imposed wind field.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.58-65
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• 1993

The theoretical treatment of statistical properties and distribution relevant to nonlinear random wave field of moderate bandwidth such as peak and trough of wave elevation is an overdue task hampered by the complicated form of nonlinear random waves. In this study, the extreme distribution of nonlinear random waves is derived based on the simplified version of Longuet-Higgins' wave model. It is shown that the band width of wave spectrum has a significant influence on these extreme distribution and the significant wave height is getting larger in an increasing manner as the nonlinearity is getting profound.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.18-25
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• 1992

A discrete spectral model for generation, propagation and dissipation of wind waves for arbitrary depth and current is presented. This model incorporates wave current interaction, including changes of absolute frequencies due to unsteadiness of depth and currents. The numerical scheme for propagation if basically second-order accurate, and effects of refraction and frequency shills due to unsteadiness of depth and current are calculated on a fixed grid, also using second-order scheme.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.251-261
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• 2007

The wind-wave interaction around the Kyung-gi Bay, Korea, was studied using the observed data from ocean buoy at DeuckJeuck-Do from Jan. to Dec., 2005, and from waverider data at KeuckYeulBee-Do on Mar. 19-26 and May 23-28, 2005. Wind-driven surface waves and wave-driven wind speed decrease were estimated from the ocean buoy data, and the characteristics of wave spectrum response were also investigated from the waverider data for the wave developing and calm stages of sea surface, including the time series of spectrum pattern change, frequency trend of the maximum energy level and spectrum slope for the equilibrium state range. The wind speed difference between before and after considering the wave effect was about $2ms^{-1}$ (wind stress ${\sim}0.1Nm^{-2}$) for the wind speed range $5-10ms^{-1}$ and about $3ms^{-1}$ (wind stress ${\sim}0.4Nm^{-2}$) for the wind speed range $10-15ms^{-1}$. Correlation coefficient between wind and wave height was increased from 0.71 to 0.75 after the wave effect considered on the observed wind speed. When surface waves were generated by wind, the initial waves were short waves about 4-5 sec in period and become in gradual longer period waves about 9-10 sec. For the developed wave, the frequency of maximum energy was showed a constant value taking 6-7 hours to reach at the state. The spectrum slope for the equilibrium state range varied with an amplitude in the initial stage of wave developing, however it finally became a constant value 4.11. Linear correlation between the frictional velocity and wave spectrum for each frequency showed a trend of higher correlation coefficient at the frequency of the maximum energy level. In average, the correlation coefficients were 0.80 and 0.82 for the frequencies 0.30 Hz and 0.35 Hz, respectively.