• Title/Summary/Keyword: 평상파

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Characteristics of Incident Waves on Seaweed Farm Field Around Gumil-up Sea, Wando (완도 금일읍 주변해역 해조류 양식장에 내습하는 해양파랑 특성)

  • Jeon, Yong-Ho;Yoon, Han-Sam;Kim, Dong-Hwan;Kim, Heon-Tae
    • Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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    • v.15 no.3
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    • pp.177-185
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    • 2012
  • Wave field measurements were made over a period of 18 days to study the spatial distribution of incident wave on seaweed tarm field around Gumil-up Sea, Wando, Korea. These measured data were compared with data from the Geomun-do ocean weather/wave observation buoy. A numerical simulation model that combined the offshore design wave with the seasonal normal incoming wave was used to study the incident wave distribution surrounding a seaweed farm. The results are summarized as follows. (1) On-site wave measurements showed that the major relationship between maximum and significant wave height was $H_{max}=1.6H_{1/3}$. (2) Offshore incident wave energy reaching the coast was greatly influenced by the wind direction. A north wind reduced the incident wave energy and a south wind increased it. (3) The calculated maximum wave height under the design wave boundany conditions was in the range of 4~5 m and the reduction in the incident wave height ratio ranged from approximately 38.1% to 47.6% at Gumil-up Sea. Under normal wave conditions, the maximum wave heights were 3.6~4.0 m in summer and 2.3~2.7 m in winter while the reduction in the incident wave height ratio was about 41.8% to 49.1%. (4) The sea state in the southern area of Gumil-up was the most affected by ocean waves, whereas the sea state in the northern area was very stable. The significant wave ratio in the south was about six times that in the north.

Distribution and Trend Analysis of the Significant Wave Heights Using KMA and ECMWF Data Sets in the Coastal Seas, Korea (KMA와 ECMWF 자료를 이용한 연안 유의파고의 분포 및 추세분석)

  • Ko, Dong Hui;Jeong, Shin Taek;Cho, Hong Yeon;Seo, Kyoung Sik
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.29 no.3
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    • pp.129-138
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    • 2017
  • The coastal wave environment is a very important factor that directly affects the change of coastal topography, the habitat of marine life, and the design of offshore structures. In recent years, changes in the wave environment due to climate change are expected, and a trend analysis of the wave environment using available data sets is required. In this paper, significant wave heights which are measured at six ocean buoys (Deokjeokdo, Oeyeondo, Chibaldo, Marado, Pohang, Ullengdo) have been used to analyze long-term trend of normal waves. In advance, the outlier of measured data by Korea Meteorological Administration have been removed using Rosner test. And Pearson correlation analysis between the measured data and ECMWF reanalysis data has been conducted. As a results, correlation coefficient between two data were 0.849~0.938. Meanwhile, Mann-Kendall test has been used to analyze the long-term trend of normal waves. As a results, it was found that there were no trend at Deokjeokdo, Oeyeondo and Chibaldo. However, Marado, Pohang and Ullengdo showed an increasing tendency.

이상파랑하에서의 해빈변화특성 해석

  • Kim, Hui-Jae;An, Hyo-Jae;Kim, Gang-Min;Lee, Jung-U
    • Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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    • 2014.06a
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    • pp.241-243
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    • 2014
  • Recently, as the coastal erosion impacts greats to both social and economical aspects, each local government is trying to setup its countermeasures. However, it is necessary to survey the change of sediment movement characteristics and investigate the continuous environment change by long-term monitoring after building prevention constructions. In this study, predictions on wave deformation and sediment movement deduced through the numerical modeling are made, based on the ordinary and extraordinary wave through seasonal superiority wave direction, height, period and long-term wave characteristics on the eroded beach of central West sea.

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Analysis of Resonance Efficiency According to Length and Entrance Depth of Channel Resonance Part of Multi-Resonance Wave Energy Converter (다중공진 파력발전체의 수로 공진부 길이와 입구 깊이별 공진 효율 분석)

  • Sukjin Ahn;Changhoon Lee;Hyen-cheol Jung;Hyukjin Choi
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.36 no.4
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    • pp.138-148
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    • 2024
  • Multi-resonance wave energy converter can generate efficient power generation by complexly utilizing the resonance phenomenon of waves even when waves propagate normally. As the wave is amplified by resonance, the power generation efficiency of the multi-resonance wave energy converter increases, and the shape of the resonance part needs to be optimized to maximize power generation efficiency. The multi-resonance wave energy converter amplifies waves in the seiche resonance part and the channel resonance part. In this study, CFD numerical experiments were performed under various conditions such as the length and location of the channel resonance part to analyze the sensitivity for each condition and derve the optimal shape of the channel resonance part.

Computational Method for Rate of Overtopping Using Time Dependent Mild-Slope Equation (시간의존 완경사방정식을 이용한 월파량 산정 방법)

  • Kwak, Moon-Su;Lee, Hong-Gyu;Park, Sung-Yoon;Pyun, Chong-Kun
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.18 no.4
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    • pp.372-382
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    • 2006
  • Most of the conventional breakwaters impermeable breakwaters which block seawater exchange between the outside and inside of the harbors. The blocking of seawater exchange may cause pollution of water in harbors. To solve the water pollution problem, various kinds of seawater exchange breakwaters have been proposed. Their types can be classified into the current type which uses tidal current, and the overtopping type which uses the wave energy. The overtopping type breakwaters require a discharge coefficient to calculate the rate of overtopping into the harbor. The present study is to compute the rate of overtopping with introduction of a correct discharge coefficient and to evaluate the effect of the overtopping type breakwater on the water qualify inside a harbor. The rate of overtopping was computed by using Forchheimer formula with time dependent mild-slope equation for various wave conditions. The formula has been generally used to calculate the overflow discharge in steady state river flows. The discharge coefficient, which is the key parameter of the calculation, was determined by a series of hydraulic model tests. The present scheme was applied to the seawater exchange section of the western breakwater of Jeju New Harbor's and the efficiency of that section was examined. The calculated results showed that the rate of overtopping into the harbor reached about $27.5m^3/s$ in the wave condition (wave height 3.7 m, wave period 8.5s, and wave direction NNW).

Seasonal Morphodynamic Changes of Multiple Sand Bars in Sinduri Macrotidal Beach, Taean, Chungnam (충남 태안군 신두리 대조차 해빈에 나타나는 다중사주의 계절별 지형변화 특성)

  • Tae Soo Chang;Young Yun Lee;Hyun Ho Yoon;Kideok Do
    • Journal of the Korean earth science society
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    • v.45 no.3
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    • pp.203-213
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    • 2024
  • This study aimed to investigate the seasonal patterns of multiple bar formation in summer and flattening in winter on the macrotidal Sinduri beach in Taean, and to understand the processes their formation and subsequent flattening. Beach profiling has been conducted regularly over the last four years using a VRS-GPS system. Surface sediment samples were collected seasonally along the transectline, and grain size analyses were performed. Tidal current data were acquired using a TIDOS current observation system during both winter and summer. The Sinduri macrotidal beach consists of two geomorphic units: an upper high-gradient beach face and a lower gentler sloped intertidal zone. High berms and beach cusps did not develop on this beach face. The approximately 400-m-wide intertidal zone comprises distinct 2-5 lines of multiple bars. Mean grain sizes of sand bars range from 2.0 to 2.75 phi, corresponding to fine sands. Mean sizes show shoreward coarsening trend. Regular beach-profiling survey revealed that the summer profile has a multi-barred morphology with a maximum of five bar lines, whereas, the winter profile has a non-barred, flat morphology. The non-barred winter profiles likely result from flattening by scour-and-fill processes during winter. The growth of multiple bars in summer is interpreted to be formed by a break-point mechanism associated with moderate waves and the translation of tide levels, rather than the standing wave hypothesis, which is stationary at high tide. The break-point hypothesis for multi-bars is supported by the presence of the largest bar at mean sea-level, shorter bar spacing toward the shore, irregular bar spacing, strong asymmetry of bars, and the 10-30 m shoreward migration of multi-bars.