• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.97-113
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• 2016

This study develops pant patterns using body shape, measurement and shell mesh data to decide optimal women's pants according to styles with excellent size, fit and shape for different individuals and silhouettes. Standard landmarks, lines, triangles and structures were set on a 3D scanned lower body shell to represent women in their twenties and flattened as a 2D pattern. Patterns were created and analyzed according to culotte, formal, slacks and tight type considering crotch shape, location of the crotch point, and adjusting waist darts. Flattened patterns were rotated to compare existing methods. The crease lines were then set through the hip protrusion point and compared. The main factor of the pant pattern were extracted, total rise, crotch depth, crotch width, angle of center line, shape of the center line curve, the thigh width, the amount of waist dart, and crease line position. With going tight style from the culotte, the fits are closer to the figure with minimized thigh circumference, the dart amount decreases, the crotch depth increases, the crotch extensions were shorter, and the angle of the center back increased. The total rise is U shape for culotte and is closer to V shape as the silhouette tightens. T-test of appearance evaluation of the developed pant pattern were conducted after analyzing measurements and shapes of each styles. The results of the developed patterns were superior to existing patterns in accordance to hip line between body and pants as well as appearance evaluation. We found systematic mechanisms among pattern factors that create various pant silhouettes. Evidence on classification of the silhouettes of traditional types of pants were explained objectively through the process of playing out 3D forms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.5
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• pp.741-751
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• 2009

In order to design and develop the various silhouette of pants pattern for standardized pants patterns, this study is to classify the pants style by the silhouette and to characterize each pants pattern which are classified. Recent 37 ready-made pants patterns of various style were collected in order to analyze their silhouette from April to July 2007. Measurement of each region of the pants pattern were compared and analysed. After analyse the standard deviation, coefficient of variance, minimum, maximum, range about the measurement of each region of the pants pattern, major pattern design factors were extracted. Five major factors are the angle of center front line and center back line, the crotch extension, the position of center back line against center front line, the curvature of center back line, and amount of waist dart. As a result, pants style were grouped as the culottes, formal, basic and tight style after considering the extracted design factors, and analysing correlation, degree of dispersion of the measurement by part. As the silhouette of pants classification from culotte to tight, the fits are closer to the figure, crotch depth increases, crotch extensions are shorter, and angle of the center back increases. The shape of the connected front and back center lines is U-shape for culotte and is closer to V-shape as the silhouette becomes tight.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.145-160
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• 2005

On the subjects of the female adults in their 20s who love to wear jeans, the wearing reality of basic jean pants and engineered jean pants was examined while pattern comparison and the evaluation of appearance and functions were made to reach the following conclusions: 1. Wearing reality of engineered jean pants Among the examined subjects, 74.8% were found out to favor engineered jean pants. Those who have engineered jean pants turned out to pursue well-known brands more than practicality. 2. Pattern comparison analysis of basic jean pants and engineered jean pants Though similar sizes existed in pants tips and belt width, engineered jean pants showed bigger values in waist circumference, crotch circumference, hip circumference, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on. There were no big differences in the front part except for the items like crotch circumference and crotch length, but engineered jean pants had bigger sizes in the rear part. Engineered jeans in the rear contained the outward curved silhouette of the legs, curved tips, and a dart design instead of a back yoke. 3. Evaluation of appearance and functions In the scores of appearance, basic jean pants were higher at 3.65 in the order of front > side > back. On the contrary, engineered jean pants were excellent in the order of side > back > front. In the items of functions, engineered jean pants were higher at 4.23 in the order of hips > thighs> waist > abdomen > knee > crotch. On the other hand, basic jean pants showed the order of knee > crotch & thighs > abdomen > hips > waist. In every movement, engineered jean pants revealed higher functionality. In particular, the bigger physical movement led to the greater functional differences between the two kinds of jean pants.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.26-36
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• 2011

The study analyzes the development of slim-fit formal pants patterns for middle-aged men. This study suggests a new pattern that complements the problems of the existing fit on the basis of the standard nude size for middle-aged men with lower garments through the analyses of one-tuck pants patterns from 5 popular brands. As a result, the waistline is lowered by 0.8cm out of consideration for the waist circumference. The crotch extension is reduced by 1.5cm, the back crotch length is revised, the center back waist point is raised by 0.9cm, and the hip line is straightened. The slim-fit is perfected of the new lines from the thigh to knee-line.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.410-421
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• 2018

The study is designed to develop a educational basic pants patterns for men, and has been analyzed focusing on the university textbooks published since 2000. We also used CAD programs and virtual fitting programs to analyze the fitness of pants. To do this purpose, after choosing 7 Men's Wear textbooks, selected patterns were drawn and measured using PAD system and were compared and analyzed. Also, the appearance evaluation was examined through virtual fitting and then evaluated 21 male and female university students in their 20s. After supplementing the problems of the patterns in the existing textbooks, a pattern was developed and verified the fitness of the developed pattern. The results of comparing the proposed measurement items of each textbook for the pants pattern indicated a significant differences in terms of hip circumference of each pattern, which were between 96~105cm. A comparison of the drafting methods of each pattern showed the drafting methods for the crotch length, the front crotch extension, the back crotch extension were the difference. The results of appearance evaluation were pattern E presented the slimmest fit and pattern D presented the loosest fit. As a result of analysis of pants pattern, a waist circumference 82cm, a hip circumference 98cm, a crotch length 24cm, a pants length 104cm and a ham line width 46cm were most suitable. The development pattern was evaluated as superior to the existing pattern through the appearance evaluation of the virtual fitting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.1
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• pp.90-100
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• 2013

This study uses a survey questionnaire to identify the major customer age class of adult women who frequently mountain climb as well as analyze their purchasing behavior and preference of mountain climbing pants. The field survey, classified the types of mountain climbing pants, selected the types of mountain climbing pants that consumers preferred, and then analyzed the degrees of satisfaction for mountain climbing pants based on an evaluation of wearing. Specifically, the patterns of mountain climbing pants preferred by national brands and licensed brands were compared and analyzed. The validities of commercially available mountain climbing pants were analyzed through an evaluation of wearing comfort and an evaluation of wearing on a 3D simulation of the human body. The basic data for the development of mountain climbing pants are presented based on the results. The survey questionnaire results indicate that the major class of women consumers of mountain climbing goods was in the 40s to 50s; in addition, the types they most wore were straight type and functional cut type. The preferred brand was KOLONSPORT (which occupies a 21.2% market share), followed by THE NORTH FACE (13.0%), K2 (11.5%) and Kolping (10.0%). The main reason (26.8% of responses) that they preferred these brands was functionality. The difference in measurement of climbing pants patterns could be analyzed accurately in the pattern analysis, the wearing evaluation by the self-sonsory test and evaluation of wearing comfort through 3D simulation. The results of ANOVA on motions and items indicates that no significant difference was found among motions; however, a significant difference was recognized among items. A comparison of straight type and functional cut type showed that the functional cut type excelled slightly in wearing comfort.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.105-115
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• 2015

This study aims to compare the ease of men's single-pleated pants patterns, and to analyze the fit and appearance through the 3D virtual garment system. The researchers selected five(four educational materials and one industrial pattern) slim-fit single-pleated pants which is the current fashion trend in menswear. The CLO 3D Modelist program was utilized to carry out the appearance evaluation through virtual wearing, opacity, and clothing pressure. The results showed that D pants had the greatest ease on the waist circumference, while C pants had the least ease. The E pants had the greatest ease on the hip circumference, then B pants and C pants showed less ease. Also, the E pants had the longest on the pants length, then D pants showed the shortest. In the appearance evaluation, A pants received the most favorable results, followed by D, B, E, and C pants, in descending order. The clothing pressure appeared to be mainly red on the waist, crotch, and hem in all pants, so the clothing pressure was high. From the results, we can understand that each of the 5 single-pleated pants patterns has different ease amount and silhouette.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.312-324
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• 2011

This investigates the type of pants preferred by Korean men in their 20s through a subjective wear test. Six types of men's pants were developed as experimental garments. The male subjects were university students between the ages of 20 and 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental pants were rated using seven Likert scales. A 7-point Likert-type scale was used for the evaluation, with 7 indicating the best fit. As a result, a basic men's sloper for lower body clothing was developed based on SizeKorea 2004 anthropometric measurements surveyed between 2003 and 2004. A basic pattern (A) was manipulated to tight-fit pants (E) and loose-fit pants (D, L, M, and N) by considering the ease at hip level and the style. Among the six pants, pants D and L (4cm ease at hip level) were found to be superior to others in terms of comfort, fitting, and crotch depth. With regard to ease and comfort of the crotch part, pants E and A (0cm ease at hip level) were found to be the least preferred.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.477-494
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• 2021

This study examined four subjects with close to average body-size values in four stages based on the average BMI value of middle-aged women aged 45 to 59 years. The first experimental pants was developed with two kinds of educational materials pants pattern. After using a clothing-suitability evaluation to identify problems, a pants pattern suitable for the body shape of middle-aged women was developed by modifying and supplementing the initial design. The fit assessment revealed that pattern A had a problem with wrinkles in the hip and thigh areas due to the long crotch length, and pattern B had a short bottom length, which caused the bottom to curl in toward the groin or for the bottom to stick at the hips. The second experimental pants was developed to address these issues and overall satisfaction with the dimensions was higher than for the first educational pattern. The proper front and rear length extensions satisfied movement functionality and appearance requirements, and increasing the gradient of the back centerline-rather than expanding the width of the back crotch-improved the functionality.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.431-439
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• 2013

This study aims to give practical help to the pattern making of baggy pants produced in large quantity from industrial fields. The functionality of crotch part is a key element to decide wear sensation and comfort of pants as having direct influence on movements of legs in pattern designing of baggy pants. The industrial patterns of baggy pants in various styles that are released currently in Korea were collected and a comparative analysis was conducted on them for the thesis. First, samples of men baggy pants were collected from three different brands and compared the completion sizes. Secondly, it studied the most appropriate patterns as quantifying the appropriateness of movements through fitting tests. Finally, the study verified the differences of visual images by surveys of professional groups. The conclusions obtained from this research are as follows. In terms of aesthetic attribute among the three brands, A baggy pants, which had a small size tolerance, were the most appropriate. Meanwhile concerning the appropriateness of movement, B baggy pants were shown to be the most appropriate. This reveals explicitly the problem of aesthetic attribute and functionality, which are always in conflict during the pattern design. It is necessary to develop patterns and establish a measurement system that may satisfy both of these factors.