• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.155-168
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• 2006

The purpose of this study focusing on the gather decorations shown in the modern fashion was to review needlework techniques and design features of gather decorations and thereupon, analyze the aesthetic characteristics of gather decorations shown in designers' works to examine the gather decoration trend in today's fashion. First, the decorative features of gather decorations different from the conventional costumes are shirring, lace and trimming combined or shirring repeated. Second, in view of sensualism, the gather decorations seem to play a role of enhancing the exposure as a mode of expression, while the indirect exposure or beach is mixed with the materials to widen the range of gather decoration expressions. Third, in terms of history, the conventional decorative techniques are combined with new techniques and materials to create a fantastic and romantic mood different from the conventional costumes. Fourth, in view of rhythms, the wave line of the rim for gather decorations serves to express some vivid effects; on the human body, its monotonous plane repetition will turn into a new expression or a voluminous physical sense of motion. However, since expressions or meanings of the gather decorations are much diversified, they should not be regarded as simple decoration details. Our modern designers searching for new expression of creases use unique structural forms to explore the possibility of creative gather decorations. In all, since gather decorations seem to be significant as unique details conducive to a structural pragmatism and aesthetics, it is deemed necessary to continue to develop gather decorations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.103-117
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to clarify the adaptation of beauty of traditional dress depicted contemporary Korean fashion design. For this purpose, the external form and the internal meaning based on 'the double roots' proposed by W$\ddot{o}$lfflin were analyzed in Korean traditional dress. Documentary studies and objective studies were done with descriptive and content analytic methods. And homospatial process was devised in order to develop the traditional identity in contemporary fashion design. The results were as follows: 1. As the external form, H. O. A silhouette, chogori, ch'ima, paji, and po concerning internal type, kaftan, flat form related to structured type were represented. Traditional color sense were love of white, contrasting as well as analogous color harmony shown often in nature phenomena, and temperate achromatic color harmony. Texture were characterized as rough and coarse expressing vividness, fine and smooth expressing delicateness and tenderness. As the internal meaning, the beauty of purity related to nature, tragedy, and symbolism were represented. 2. Since 1980's. Korean fashion designers frequently applied unstructural kaftan form and H silhouette to Korean fashion design, and sought natural and pliable line in whole dress. Use of white and achromatic color harmony as well as use of linnen were prominent. Designers' aesthetic consciousness was pursuit of the beauty of nature. Representative designers who concentrated on expressing traditional beauty were Lee Shinwoo, Sul Yoonhyung, Jin Taiok and others. 3. A homospatial process could be a method in the creative design which enables to express Korean identity in fashion design, and could suggest ideas of new designs full of Korean identity by superimposed and fused imaginery.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.8
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• pp.1288-1300
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• 2006

Glamour in fashion, which stands for attractive physical feature with certain mystique, has been used without accurate analysis thereof. This thesis is purported to provide comprehensive study of glamour in fashion and to contemplate glamour look reflected in fashion history, thereby to establish the styles of glamour expressed in fashion trends and to provide the basis which can be utilized in the categorical basis of fashion design. For such purposes, this thesis first provides the study on the glamour in fashion, and to conduct a case study by analyzing photographic materials. The glamour expressed in the fashion design can be classified into the following six aesthetic values: luxury, excess, masquerade, appropriation, sensuality and decadence. In the modern history, glamour looks in fashion design started out as so-called Blooming Age Glamour Look, dating from the late nineteenth century to the late 1920s, which was represented by luxurious haute couture style of courtesans. Thereafter Golden Age Glamour Look appeared in the movie costumes in the Hollywood from the late 1920s to mid-1950s. Sensuality, decadence and masquerade are the central features. Subsequently, Pop Age Glamour Look appeared with fashion styles of pop stars, which can be characterized by appropriation and excess. In the 1980s and the 1990s, Glamour Renaissance Look appeared as glamour looks which were spread out to people in various classes, which is characterized by luxury and appropriation. Based upon the foregoing historical survey, there are four representative styles in glamour looks, including (1) luxury glamour derived from Blooming Age Glamour Look, (2) hyperfeminine glamour derived from Golden Age Glamour Look, (3) kitsch glamour derived from Pop Age Glamour Look, and (4) romantic glamour derived from Glamour Renaissance Look.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2 s.55
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• pp.318-328
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• 2005

Our interest in human body is more and more increasing. Not only academic and art communities but also other social communities show a keen interest in the human body. Especially, the breast of women's body parts may be comparable to men's penis because it is protruded. The breast which sexually distinguishes women from men becomes an important topic in the fashion design community. Therefore, such designs which emphasize the breast are being introduced in a natural way. This paper aims at examining the reason and symbolism for the exposure of breast and analyzing the fashion design that breast is exposed. This study will help us grasp the meaning which the design has. The exposure's scope of breast in the design includes the partial exposure, total exposure and the concealment of breast. But these all have their effects in each scope. For this paper, some general things were investigated. They are as follows: the phases of breast exposure in the fashion design, the exposure of breast expressed in the works of fine art, and the alteration of breast-exposing phenomenon shown in apparels. Then, each type of breast-exposing design shown in the women's fashion was analyzed from the middle of 1980s' when the phenomenon of breast exposure occurred to the year 2004. These could be divided into 4 types. They include a suggestive type, an exaggerative type, an open type and a reproductive type. As the result of analysis of 4 types, such meanings of design as an emphasis of femininity, an expression of liberty, a symbol of maternity and a commercialization of sex could be analogized.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.229-244
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• 2010

This study aims to discuss the type and characteristics of primitivism in the modern fashion of the $21^{st}$ century and, as a research method, the concept of primitivism as well as the transition of the patterns of primitivism expressed in modern art have been considered and reviewed through a variety of references. In particular, an empirical analysis of the works that have been created from 2000 to 2009 has been performed using domestic and overseas fashion and collection magazines. The characteristics of primitivism in modern fashion possess the following types of expression: First, Sensuality can be cited as one of the characteristics, either by using direct or indirect exposure of the human body, a silhouette which fits tightly to the body, or creating the effect of sensual beauty using animal fur or bird feathers. Second, Incantation: Masks symbolizing primitive incantation are used to cover the human face or primitive incantation is incorporated as a theme of hair accessories or fashion trinkets, etc. In addition, such decorations as tattoos and the body colorations of ancient tribes are reproduced in modern fashion by means of body painting, printing or other accessories, emphasizing the image of occult primitiveness. Third, Naturalness can be cited as one of the characteristics. Naturalness is emphasized in modern fashion not through artificial decorations and processing, but rather through different patterns of exposure by which natural purity can be felt or through the use of non-artificial materials which recalls primitive civilization. Forth, Playfulness is expressed in the form of graffiti or abstract letters and paintings, and the character of the play is often expressed by the use of grotesque images based on various distortions and exaggerations of the human body, the utilization of symbols of primitive incantation and body and/or facial painting. Fifth, Lastly 'folkishness is emphasized. Folk-like objects, facial decorations, exposure of the body and intense color contrasts typically represent the folkish characteristics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.737-752
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to understand the medieval culture and medieval religious costume by analysing and grasping the formative characteristics of image of medieval religious costume in the modern fashion that were represented to the modern fashion, and also to offer materials to predict the history of fashion in the future by considering the progress of modern fashion and recognizing the fashion to be progress. To examine the image of medieval religious costume in the modern fashion, this thesis divided it into avant-garde image, symbolic image, and mysterious image. These can be summarized as follows. First, in avant-garde image, the harmony between characteristic eroticism and heterogeneous materials are expressed and the formative change of religious costume into general costume are expressed. Second, in symbolic image, the symbolic meanings of the medieval clergy man's costume is expressed in modem fashion while its religious meanings and senses are expressed with symbolic image. Third, in mysterious image, the abundant and profound lights and colors express the mysterious senses of the costume and sanctity applied with mosaic painting and stained glass techniques, utilizing the splendor jewelry, spangle and materials, and most of its image reflects exotic and embellish tendency. As a result, this thesis could be described as follows; Previous religious costume of clergy man was used as a mediator between general devotee and God in ceremony, and it was worn by the general devotee to express devotion. This religious costume was utilized in modem fashion, and it gave the avant-garde image and symbolic image of religion. In addition to it, mysterious image was expressed with exotic and embellish tendency.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.613-628
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• 2013

This study aims to identify characteristics of neo-naturalism coming from periodical changes in the 21th society, culture based on naturalism and analyze the expressional and design characteristics of neo-naturalism on 2000s. For a research method, this study researched development of naturalism in fashion, and searched digital naturalism and ecology which are design paradigm effecting on neo-naturalism through literature research and preliminary study. Analyzing preliminary study on architecture, interior, fashion about digital naturalism and ecology design, concept of neo-naturalism identified and four expressional characteristics of neo-naturalism was classified, actual examples of neo-naturalism in 21th fashion were extracted and drew design characteristics. The results are as followings. Firstly, naturalism described nature as it is and developed according to the values and needs of the times. Naturalism in fashion showed natrual human body's curve, nature pattern and used natural materical focused on ideal beauty of nature. Secondly, neo-naturalism renews with the foundation of digital culture and ecology design paradigm, and focuses on the flexible possibility to express nature with digital, new media and formative art, and made the artificial nature uniting human-nature-environment as organic whole by ecology design paradigm. Thirdly, design of neo-naturalism divided four characteristics, nature's organic form, combination with the technology, ethical harmony with nature, global local design. The first characteristics of the nature's organic form are expressing silhouette of the nature's organic volume abstractly, the second ones of the combination with the technology are reinterpreting primitive nature contemporary with artificial sensibility of high technology, the third ones of the ethical harmony with nature are showing simple design and high-touch, and the forth ones of global local design are expressing cultural hybrid preserving vernacular design.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.50 no.8
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• pp.1-11
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the application of raditional elements in Lie Sang bong and Vivienne Tam's Fashion Design. The methods of research, the references to the precedents of prior research, fashion related journals, articles, and websites of designers were examined to analyze how each designer reinterpreted the respective homeland's traditions. The designs of Lie Sang bong and Vivienne Tam studied were from the 2002-03 F/W to the 2012 S/S collections. The results are as follow. First, both designers use traditional marks when reinterpreting the traditional clothes of Korea and China. In the case of Lie Sang bong, traditional Korean marks were linked to the western structure. For Vivienne Tam, designs which revived realistic marks identically were displayed. Second, in terms of the modern reinterpretation of the traditional clothes shapes, there were a number of cases in which the silhouettes of their respective country's traditional clothes were mainly brought into their arts. Lie Sang bong was influenced by the 'line' of traditional Korean design. In addition, the atmosphere of the traditional clothes helped to reanalyze the traditional clothes' figure. In Vivienne Tam's designs, unique Chinese images were produced by, keeping the original form of the Chinese dress. Third, in the use of the traditional ornament techniques, Lie Sang bong partially introduced and applied traditional ornament techniques while Vivienne Tam largely decorated the traditional. Chinese ornaments while directly utilizing the structuring designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.5
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• pp.155-166
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• 2004

OP-Art was not appreciated by painters and art critics. and according1y has been forgotten in art history. But recently Op-Art is revitalized in fashion and is in its palmy days. This study intends to re-assess the value of Op-Art, by reviewing its influence on fashion design in the post-modern society To this purpose, conceptual characteristics of Op-Art was analyzed. And then, on the bases of these characteristics, the figural characteristics and the meaning of Op-Art in fashion design of post-modern society was re-explained. Op-Art is characterized as an art of flatness of picture plane which uses repetition of simple forms and colors. It is also based on trick of visual perception. Finally. it creates an impression which is flickering or vibrating by means of optical illusion. These characteristics give birth to some features such as simplicity. anonymity and mobility in the Op-Art fashion. The meanings of Op-Art in fashion design in post-modern society are as follows. First, repetition of simple units employed in Op-Art produces feeling of simplicity. which makes the Op-Art fashion works perceived as polysemy. In other words, the feeling of simplicity can be interpreted In diverse perspectives within the social context of our society. The material civilization and technology civilization, which causes the alienation and standardization of man. can be the backgrounds of the Op-Art fashion. Second, Op-Art is an art based on perspectives of spectators. Anonymity in the Op-Art fashion enhances participation of spectators. which gives Op-Art a sense of affinity. Third, through the feeling of mobility created by optical illusion techniques. the Op-Art fashion expresses the opposition to the ideal body image made by power group. In post-modern society, Op-Art in fashion gives new meaning to art. Op-Art in fashion proposes new roles of artist and spectators, and new concepts of art related with roles of human beings. Through general sensibility of men, Op-art in fashion can express new recognition of the post-modern society.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.7
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• pp.63-73
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to be of use for more successful prediction of possible Prevailing aesthetic characteristics in the future, by reviewing how decadent features have actually been unfolded in fashion and make-up since the end of 20th century, as we are now in the new 21st century. The decadent traits of modern fashion and make-up since the late'90s could be listed as follows : first, the fashion has intentionally been designed to look disgusting, where realistic and imaginary images coexist, by using a half-man, half-machine image or vividly describing detestable animal skin, There have also been disgusting features in the make-up, which are so extremely weird that we can created by adding vinyl or pieces of textiles like Patch of the 17th century. Second, the satanic character of the fashion seems to be meant to keep in harmony with evil image such as Dracula, witch, skeleton or warrior of the evil, in order to charge the unnatural, inhuman and fin-de-siecle Phenomenon and find out what It really means for the inner world of men. And the demonic expressions of the make-up chiefly use white or black color or blue color of low saturation or low lightness, and part of facial features is exaggerated or shortchanged. Third, the decadent characteristics are expressed in the fashion by attaching sensational ornament to the human bode or using sexual exposure. So they give unnatural, unsound and extremely erotic impressions. The decadent features in the make-up are generated by excessively using a gay red color or sensational, exciting colors. Fourth, the exoticism of the fashion is largely affected by China's Chipaoh, Japan's Kimono or primitive motives from Africa, as there are increasing interests in Asia. And that of the make-up leans toward the East, as Kabuki make-up from Japan, Kyongkeuk make-up from China or the primitive features from Africa are employed.