• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.105-115
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• 2001

When restoring a tomb of Songeun, Park Ik that damaged by typhoon in Kobubri, Chungdomyon, Mill Yang, Kyoung Nam in October 2000, a flower designed stone and fresco was discovered. Soneun Park Ik passed the civil service examination in Kongmin dynasty and was consecutively occupied Sajaedogam(司宰少監; regarded as one of second highest official rank). The fresco realistically depicts custom of ordinary people in end of Koryo, beginning of Chosun dynasty that it is considered as an important research material in study of ostumes. Therefore, this research intend to contribute to study of costumes in general public of Koryo that has insufficient study materials through study and analyze of costumes in the fresco with literature research. The number of figures in the fresco is presumed as 26-27 in all but clearly observed figures is only five women and four men and partly damaged figures are two men and two women. Women are worn relatively long yoo that can cover hip as an upper garment and Sang(裳) as trousers. The upper garments are all adjusted to right and has Jikryoung gik (straight collars) but there are strip attached collars or double collars among the Jikryoung gik. The length of Sang reaches to ankle and a waistband is trailed to below the knees. Most of hair are combed in the two sides and made a ring, moreover worn ceremonial coronet, which imply the ceremonial parade. Distinguished from the frescos of Koguryo, there are no women wearing Po(袍) also Yoo with Dae(帶) and without were coexisted. The mens costume is mainly appeared in two types. One(元) is Danryoungpo, Po with round collar and wearing a lozenge shaped crest with a brim, the other is Jikryoung Po, Po with straight collar, and wearing Ballib(拔笠), the latter is a costume of two man presumed as envoys. In the case of Danryoungpo, its length reached to ankle that shows decorum and in Jikryoungpo its length is below the knees that seem to offer practicality for envoys to guide a long journey. Both man and women are in decent cloth with a crest, which simple costume for ordinary people as a Chaksoopo that has comfortable length for movement and narrow sleeves. Songeun Park Ik actively worked under regency of One dynasty that influence of Mongol is seen in mans crest. There are some changes but including womens costume most of cloth are followed Korean traditional costume style.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.83-91
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to provide some useful references to the educational field in terms of providing on analysis of job characteristics of fashion designers working in the women's wear industries. The data were collected from 102 fashion designers working in women's wear industries through the questionnaire and were analyzed by SPSS packages of frequencies and percentiles for comparative study, and the results are as follows: 1. The demographic characteristics of the fashion designers are; unmarried (80.4%), working less than 2 years (20.2%), completion of junior college(68.6%), majority ages between 20-24 yrs(43.1%). An average length of working in one company war less than 6 months. 2. The ratio computer usage of the design room was approx. 52.0% especially in the management of sales (52.9%) and the ratio in fashion design was approx. 17.6% in merchandising planning. 3. 76.4% of respondents was working 10 hours a day, and 50% of them was dissatisfied on the job caused by excessive working hour (31.4%) and job over load (35.3%). In the developing fashion design with the relation of actual job, insufficient knowledges of the concerned technical and production fields (68.6%) were indicated as the most difficult area. In addition, fashion magazines were considered as the most helpful resource(94.1%). 4. It was noted that the target age groups for the brand were clearly divided into two groups, notably the early and middle of twenties and the early and middle forties. Among the produced items, formal wears were accounted for 52.9%. 5. As far as the contents of job are concerned, the fashion designers are mostly engaged in purchasing textile, collecting informations of fashion, quality control, whereas their actual job is apparel design. 6. The training that the fashion designer received beside formal education includes attendance of private institutes(62.7%), OJT(7.8%), seminars(4.9%). Regarding formal education, the respond indicated that they had least opportunity to received computer training. 7. The necessary subjects in the schools for the fashion designers in relation to the current job were fashion information, merchandising planning, pattern making, cutting, fashion marketing, knowledges of clothing material in sequence. Subjects which are necessary for the further development include pattern making(21.6%), fashion marketing(14.7%), and designing with computer(7.8%).

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.139-146
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to analyze the efficiency and working conditions of the patternwork departments by surveying the apparel manufacturing companies sampled in Seoul for their organization, working enviornment and technology of their patternwork departments, and thereby, find the ways to promote the functions of the patternwork department. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. As a result of analyzing the working environment of patternwork departments, it was found that the problems counted by most of the pattern workers were lack of workforce, unhygienic or unpleasant workplaces. 2. As a consequence of analyzing the sample production in terms of tacking methods and times, They rarely tacked the white cotton. Such an omission of tacking procedure may serve to save time, but if a sewing error occurs, the working time would rather be longer due to the defects of pattern to be remedied. 3. As a result of reviewing the general patternwork conditions, it was found that the patterns were still worked out in two dimensions. On the other hand, more than 60% of the pattern workers were applying to their patternworks the styles which they had learned from their seniors. Few patterns are being developed in conformity to apparel trends or body shape changes. 4. As a consequence of examining the problems involving the production of patternsl, the problems involved primarily the patterns incised off no-dart pattern and body structure, and in light of items, involved mainly the trousers and in light of material, involved much the stretch or velvet. Moreover, it is deemed necessary to establish a special institute devoted to a systematic development of pattern technology. 5. Most of the CAD patternworks are used not for pattern designing but for grading and marking works, which suggests that pattern workers need to be educated on this new technology for more diverse and precise patternworks. 6. Lastly, as a result of examining the conditions of patternwork departments and their relevant works, most of the pattern workers were found to be subject to irregular and excessive workload, having little time to produce good patterns. This finding suggests that it is necessary to mandate the pattern workers to more involve the commodity planning.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.121-136
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to present a new research method of stage costume by designing and making the stage costume of Yean-GaeSoMoon(淵蓋蘇文) in Peking Opera Du Mu Guan (Korean; Dog Mog Guan, 獨木關). The stage costume of Peking Opera was formed on the basis of the Chinese traditional stage costume in the Qing period, however the style of stage costume was beautified the costume of Ming period and here contained the factors of successive costumes. But the stage costume of Peking Opera didn't have the same rank system with real history costume and didn't have demarcation according to period and history. In the stage costume of Peking Opera, the color is cultural language that can inform spectators of sex, age, personality, position of characters. The pattern of decoration also symboled the personality and characteristic of the character. Yean-GaeSoMoon in the play wore green armour (Chinese; ru ying kao 綠硬靠), red pants (Chinese; hong ku 紅褲), red mustache (Chinese; hong ran kou 紅髥口), crown (Chinese; da e zi 大額子), shoes (Chinese; hou di xue 厚底靴) and Xue RenGui wore white armour (Chinese; baikao 白靠), red pants (Chinese; hong ku 紅褲), shoes (Chinese; hou di xue 厚底靴), hat (Chinese; za jin 扎巾). By historical materials, Yean-GaeSoMoon was a nationalist who uphold national sprit and the greatest hero of the age and a charismatic politician who combines literatural arts with military arts. Considering these reviews, defined the thema of his new costumes' image as "the flying bird which has three legs"(三足鳥), the bird which symbolized the sun and immortality in Koguryo fresco. On the basis of this image, presented three types of Yean-GaeSoMoon's stage costume. Yean-GaeSoMoon as the minister in the court wore black gown (Chinese; mang pao 蟒袍) of dargon pattern which symbolizes harisma who opening the heaven. He as the general who directs war wore red mantle (Chinese; dou peng 斗蓬) which symbolizes the blue dragon that soaring into the sky, as the officer who fights the enemy's general wore green armour (Chinese; gai liang jia 改良甲), red pants (Chinese; hong ku 紅褲) which symbolizes the flying Sward that blowing violently. By wearing these stage costumes, the image of Yean-GaeSoMoon could changed from the fierce general of minority race who likes to fight, to the Koguryo general who fights against enemy at the risk of his life for Koguryo's autonomy. Through this study once again we could realized that stage costume played very mportant part In outstnding the characteristic of actor in the Peking Opera.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.113-133
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to establish academic identity as well as produce human resources that industries need by grasping curriculum of the departments related beauty focusing on Korean colleges (junior colleges and four year course colleges), analyzing examples of advanced countries and suggesting their developmental direction. For the research method, the reference period of curriculum in Korean colleges was from Jul. 05th, 2011 to Aug. 05th, 2011. the investigation method is as follow: first, the curriculum of the departments related to beauty which were registered in the web sites were investigated. Second, the documents were received by fax and Email from each department after calling it. Third, questions and answers were done in reference to majors on the phones. these methods are intended for 65 junior colleges and 16 four year course colleges (total 81 ones). It clarified that lifelong education centers and the graduate courses were ruled out. the statistical analysis about data which were investigated like this were done by the frequency analysis. The results which examined the major subjects of Make-up focusing on Korea and foreign countries are as follow: First, the result which examined the major and theory subjects of Make-up has found that there are the human body theory, the equipment theory, the marketing theory are the management theory in Korean junior colleges and physiology/chemical, management, marketing and equipment product were treated in four year course colleges of Korea. As for foreign colleges, the subjects related to history and culture are mainly treated as the theory courses and their purpose is to cultivate basic knowledge of the fields which are mainly connected to Make-up including plays, movies, TV and studios. Second, the result which examined practice subjects of Make-up major has found that practice subjects of the total ones are of great importance in junior colleges. And it could be found that the Make-up field is of little importance as it is not independent and exists with the hair and skin fields in one department in the four year course colleges. Especially, in the foreign countries, the more detailed and professional subjects including classes which treat digital media, studio technologies, production, wigs and the special effects were treated by the field class system and these characteristics implies that Korean curriculum should be changed in the future. Based on this analytical results of investigation, this researcher tried to propose the developmental direction of Korean curriculum in the future.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.137-153
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• 2009

Recently, young men have become more muscular as they become more interested in physical figure. However, most of these muscular men have fit problems regarding ready-made clothes. In view of this, this study aimed to develop a prototype jacket pattern for muscular men. For this study, five muscular men were selected to put on existing jacket pattern for wearing tests. The regression formula, in which muscular men body measures were adopted, was applied to unsuitable parts, especially the areas determined not to be appropriate in the evaluation of existing jacket pattern wearing tests. After the first and the second jacket pattern wearing tests, the final jacket pattern suitable for muscular men was developed. The results of the study were as follows: In order to make up for the problem of the loosening of the lapel area, due to the development of the chest muscle, the chest circumference line on the chest area of the pattern was cut to be 1.0cm wide; thus, the front length was modified with an increase. The wearing tests found that a wearers felt discomfort from the tight armhole area, so the armhole depth was set to be a little lower than that of ready-made clothes. A muscular men needs much more extra quantity in this area because the upper part of the back side is projected due to the greater development of the trapezius muscle and the deltoid than in average men. Hence, concerning the standard line for the length of the back interscye, ease of 1.0cm was added to the regression equation formula {(0.371${\times}$chest circumference+3.145)/2} in order to resolve the discomfort with the back area. Also, for the biacromion length, the upper arm protruded more than the shoulder point of the jacket because of the development of the deltoid and the upper arm muscle, and it was set to be wider than the actual shoulder. In order to solve the problem of discomfort from the narrow neck area during the wearing of a jacket owing to the development of the trapezius muscle, extra ease of 0.5cm was added to chest circumference/12-0.5cm in the existing jacket prototype to the width of back of the neck, and it was corrected to be chest circumference/12.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.1-13
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• 2008

This study is largely aimed at presenting ways to improve the working clothes and help companies create more positive images by suggesting designs of the clothes, which take into accounts the corporate image, symbolism, function and aesthetic appreciation through introduction of companies' CIP. And, it is significant to propose working clothes development condition and process with introduction of companies' CIP(Corporate Identity Program : work that systematize and simplify visually images which companies or public bodies have) A way of this study was made up with working clothes design development process which a student planned. First of all, this study looked into Company D's Corporate Identity Program(CIP) to develop the design that corresponds with the characteristics of the company's favorite design, working environment and demands of the employees. And, then, the study conducted a survey of 30 employees and intensive interviews with heads of four teams including the Safety Team, the Working Clothes Management Team and the General Affairs Team to find out the requirements of the clothes and the characteristics of the company. Based on them, the concrete image that the company pursues and the direction of design were set up through image positioning. In the end, three different concept designs were presented through image-mapping and the concrete design of each item was developed. A total of seven items including upper and lower garments (a jacket and trousers) for the spring-summer seasons, upper and lower garments (a jumper and trousers) for the winter season, cold-protecting vest and winter clothes (a coat and trousers) were presented in accordance with the three concepts. One of the concept designs, which was selected through evaluation by employees of Company D, was produced as a sample and then the final design was chosen after a discussion attended by the head of each team and representatives of the employees. Based on the aforementioned design planning, one design was selected from each of the three concept designs for production. And each of these was requested to special production enterprise and manufactured. Following the result of study, by looking into a case of a practical joint design project between a university and a company, this study suggested ideas for business to improve working clothes through the academic-industrial cooperation and presented conditions and process of design development. And, this study also aims to examine the feasibility of academic-industrial cooperation based on the cases in which enterprises and universities staged joint projects to develop working clothes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.189-206
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• 2016

A breast model was for the human body was devised by studying a body scan and human body index of a desirable breast type. Thus, when manufacturing various 3D models, these results can accordingly become a fundamental basis for realizing a desirable breast model. This study aims to provide a basic data for designing the cup patterns of brassieres in order to improve the function and wearing comfort. The comfort of three kinds of brassieres were compared: one manufactured by the actual measured size; another manufactured as per the ratio of desirable upper and lower breast lengths; and the third manufactured by the 3D model attained by the desirable human body ratio. In this study, we suggest a process for realizing the desirable breast model using the ratio of bust breadth and waist front length, which are the components for deciding the appropriate position and size of breast, and which are easy to measure. The ideal breast shape is an equilateral triangle formed by connecting the nipple with the center of the clavicle. After deciding the interval between the nipples, this value can be used to configure the locations of nipples by drawing a tangent, with equal length, from the anterior neck point (which is the center of clavicle) to the nipple. Also, since inside points of breast do not exist, the outer point of breast, upper point of breast, and below point of breast on the same plane, and the depths from the nipple point to the respective points, are applied to simulate a 3D image, by modifications along the x, y, and z axes. Depending on the type of breast, the length from the center of shoulder to the nipple, the diameter of breast, upper length of breast, and the position of nipple, are different. In conical or protruding breast, the wearing sensation is better when the nipple point of brassiere was lifted, by modifying the upper and lower lengths of breast. Considering the wearing sensation and function of a brassiere, it was better to leave the wearer's size as it is and use a pad within the same cup, rather than increase the basal area of the breast in order to increase the volume.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.65-76
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• 2005

The purpose of this research is to investigate the types of name spectrum and their characteristics of domestic fashion brand names focusing on women' wear and bisex wear, and also studied the differences based on the sex of brand target. 224 of women's wear brands and 99 of bisex wear brands were selected from ‘2002 Korea Fashion Yearbook’ under the criterion that their brand names were made in Korea and they should engage in business in 2002. The data analysis quatitatively evaluate the frequency and qualitatively evalute the image of brand product and the meaning of brand name. The result as follows; 1.The domestic fashion brands for women's and bisex wear appeared to have to three types of name spectrum ; the descriptive name was the most frequently used one, then followed by the arbitrary, and the suggestive name. There were only one coined brand name and no generic brand name. 2. The characteristics of descriptive brand name was that, in most cases, it used the name of designer. For the suggestive brand name, it implied the features or the image of its products. For the arbitrary brand name, some bear the ideology or the foundation belief of company itself. 3. For women's wear, the discriptive name appeared most, and followed by arbitrary, and the suggestive name. For bisex wear, the suggestive brand name appeared most, and followed by arbitrary name, and the discriptive name. 4. For descriptive brand name, the names of designer were used most in women's wear brands. Otherwise, the brand names that directly described the image or the characteristics of products were used most in bisex wear brands. For suggestive brand name, soft and feminine images were prevailed in women's wear brand names but comfotable and casual images were dominent in bisexsual brand names. For arbitrary brand name, as the various types of languages were combined and the various meanings and words were mixed, and imply the various meanings in both cases, it was hard to classify the characteristics into some categories.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.52-62
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the changes of modern Korean men's pants design from 1962 to 1998 by reviewing fashion magazine advertisements and pictorials. For theoretical study, the characteristics and the importance of apparel advertisements and the changes of modern Korean men's fashion trend were reviewed. For sample selection, first, 932 pictorials of men';s wear designs from Joongang Magazine, Shin Dong-A, Bokjangwolbo, Meot, Men's Life, WWD, and SFAA's photograph album, published from 1962 to 1998 were selected and then excluded some samples that could not clearly identify the pants design. Content analysis method was used to analyze the content of magazines and pictorials. The final samples are classified into pattern, color, length, silhouette, and existence or non-existence of turn-up. Frequency and $x^2$-test were conducted using a SAS statistics package to analyse the data. The results were as follows. ; (1) Solid pattern was the most prevailed throughout the last four decades and followed by stripe, check, the others, abstract, dot and floral. There is no significant difference in the type of men's pants pattern between each decade. (2) It showed a significant difference in colors of men's pants between decades. The colors in men's wear are divided into nine categories and the order of occurrence are as follows; multi-color is the most frequently shown and followed by brown, gray, blue, black, green, pink, yellow, and red. More various colors appeared over the period, however, multi color was the most popular in all decades but in the 60s. (3) Full length of pants style occupied more than 96% throughout all four decades. Due to the popularity of sports wear in men's fashion during the 90s, the shorts style appeared not only in sports wear and casual wear but also in suit style. (4) There is a significant difference in silhouette of men's pants between decades. The silhouette of men's pants were divided into four types and their order of occurrence are as follows; basic, baggy, fitted, and loose silhouette. Basic silhouette was the most prevailed throughout the whole four decades. (5) A significant difference was shown in the existence or non-existence of turn-up of men's pants between decades. Non-existence of turn-up of men's pants was the most prevailed throughout the whole four decades.