• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.826-837
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• 2012

Recently, hats have been used more frequently as an accessory, contributing to the general image of clothes in men's collections. This study compared and analyzed the frequency and styles of hat usage in men's brand collections according to the collections' images. Types of hats and their frequency of usage in men's clothes were analyzed among 857 collections from 74 brands between S/S 2006 and F/W 2012. This study also examined the relationship between clothes image and type of hats used. Hats were used in 622 out of 857 collections, and 24 different types of hats were used. In 67 collections, hats were used in at least 71% of clothes. The most frequently used hat was the fedora, followed in frequency by the beanie, cap, bowler, and high hat. The styles of hats in collections varied depending on seasons. In S/S season collections, fedoras were often used, while beanies were more common during the F/W season. This study analyzed styles of hats used in formal, casual, uniformed, and deformed images. Beanies and fedoras were frequently used for the formal image; fedoras, beanies, and plat caps were often used for the casual image; more than 3 types of hats were used together for the uniformed image; and design hats and hats in various styles were used for the deformed image. The results show that hats of various styles were used in collections to express the image of clothes.

• 복식
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• 제60권2호
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• pp.144-158
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• 2010

The concept and the typical characteristics of ethnic fashion were studied. 267 fashion designs from pret-$\grave{a}$-porter collections in Milan and New York from 2001 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed. The major conclusions of the study are as the following: The major types of ethnic fashion are Africa, American Indian, Japan, India, China, and Inca. Among these types, the first volume is Africa, the second is American Indian and others are Japan, India, China and Inca in order. Ethnic fashion changes in years showed reduction from 2001 to 2004, but much rise in 2005 showed more than 30% from 2001. Much more ethnic fashion designs were presented in S/S seasons than in F/W seasons. Africa ethnic fashion designs were more popular in S/S seasons. India ethnic fashion designs were more popular in F/W seasons. In the comparison of the Milan and New York collection, ethnic fashion designs appeared more in Milan collections than in New York from 2001 to 2003. But ethnic fashion designs appeared more in New York collections than in Milan in the year of 2005.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.34-56
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• 2005

This study analyzed the formative relationship between clothes and hat, and to find out the development direction of next hat design. To do these purposes, Fashion photos were picked up from all kinds of fashion magazines containing in Paris from the 1990's to 2004 S/S and some designers' collections. Then 1,381 photos were selected through two screenings. At first time, 1,500 photos were selected to have the relationship between clothes and hats, and finally 1,381 photos were picked. The method to analyze was the formative analysis by Marian L. Davis and Marilyn R. Delong. The results suggest that clothes and hat have an organic relationship, and a hat style is changed with formative elements of clothes.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권7호
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• pp.1003-1013
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• 2009

This study offers data that can be used to direct the styles of black dresses by looking into the characteristics of coordination in black fashion, which is continuously appearing at modem. fashion collections with a unique aesthetic value and image. This study examined the characteristic of fashion coordination of black color: First, to look at the fashion image of black color, second, to look at the characteristic of black color coordination appearing in black fashion, and third, to look at the method of coordination appearing in black color. This study collected and selected 560 black pictures that showed the fashion collections from 2005 S/S until 2007 F/W. As for data analysis, the researcher made a content analysis by classifying the pictures by item, material, accessory, and a coordination method. The research results are as follows: First, the fashion image of black color was expressed as sexy feminine, modern chic, modern future, genderless, and avant-garde images. Second, the fashion coordination of black color has the characteristics of sexiness and dignity by the use of body exposure, concealment, and a subdued line that expresses a modern, minimal atmosphere. The mix & match of materials expressed the monotony of one color as refined beauty and the use of accessories appeared to bring the image into relief. Third, as for the coordination method, pants on skirts, pants on dresses, piece coordination of code matching, plus- one coordination through vivid colors and accessories, and cross-over coordination relying on shape, material, and sense were prominent.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.63-78
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• 2018

This study analyzed gender-fluid images as expressions of feminism and gender identity expressed in fashion collections. As for the research method, this study searched the fashion collections, with the theme of feminism, utilizing key words related to feminism on an online portal, and collected the photo materials of fashion collections provided by vogue.com. This study classified the photo materials of 31 fashion collections, with the theme of feminism, into femininity, masculinity, androgyny, and avant-garde, according to the fashion design elements that divide gender identity. As a result of the classification, 326 photos were collected, in which gender identity was expressed ambiguously. This study reclassified the collected photos according to their fashion items and styles. As a result of the study, it was noticed that the fashion collections with the theme of feminism expressed the messages, using lettering graphic images, and performance. In addition, they showed a form in which men's collections and women's collections were integrated according to the change of the perceptions of gender identity, of feminism, and delivered body positive expressions, respecting differences and diversity as individual subjects, by casting diverse models in terms of age, body size, race, and culture. As for the gender identity expressed in the fashion collections, the gender-fluid images were classified into empowerment images, that expresses social rights and dignity; agender images that expresses the possibility of a gender-flexible transition; rational images that expresses the rational and practical characteristics that removed the boundary of fashion; and images of pro-sexism that expresses a new gender identity.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.71-85
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to study the beauty-coordination characteristics of Genderless fashion, which is emerging as a new trend by analyzing the trend in the latest collection and classify the resulting expression characteristics of make-up. Methods and scope of the study were based on collections published in the 2020 S/S season and 35 out of 84 designers with design elements were selected to analyze the garments most likely to be genderless. The characteristics of the expression of the genderless derived through this analysis were classified into compromise, androgyny, sensuality, exaggeration, enjoyment, and historicity. Compromise was the highest, and the lowest was for enjoyment of the classifications. The designer's work according to the characteristics of each expression shows that the pieces by Saint Laurent were the highest in compromise, sensuality, and historicity, and the pieces by Maison Margiela were the highest in androgyny while Balenciaga was the highest in exaggeration and enjoyment. Compromise represented a mixture of discord, such as incongruous bonding and coloring of heterogeneous materials, and androgyny led to the use of silhouettes and colors, with sensuality utilizing see-through material and incision lines allowing for physical exposure. Exaggeration intentionally destroyed the existing concept by breaking the overall balance of the human body through the enlargement of certain parts of the body, while enjoyment showed unexpectedness by destroying the line and sides of the garment. Lastly, historicity was analyzed for its retro design that transcends time and space with regional cultural and period characteristics.

• 복식
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• 제65권4호
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• pp.76-90
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• 2015

Based on a concept of Nietzschean nihilism, this study aimed at interpreting the nihilism in arts and its expressions, also analyzing the modern fashion collection from the same angle. The research was centered on arts after 1980, when post-modern formal destruction expanded in earnest and on the fashion collection after the 20th century, easily accessible to data. Particularly, it set 1994 nihilism collection by Alexander McQueen, a representative nihilist fashion designer as a starting point. Nietzsche mentioned that true arts may be achieved when Apollonian characteristics including a bodily sensory system and an idealization process and Dionysian characteristics including every human feeling are integrated. Besides, he emphasized the importance of an artist being represented as an image of ${\ddot{U}}bermensch$. The ${\ddot{U}}bermensch$ image, reflected in arts and artistic nihilism, represents themes of violence/death, realistic/unrealistic expressions, human body/inhuman aversion materials and the transmutation of a form. Fashion collection expressions, owing to the special characteristic of the show form unlike other arts, were segmented as a realistic ${\ddot{U}}bermensch$ image using a model in a theme, expression, material and form. The theme of violence/death was divided into the death of human and a society. Human life/death was expressed as destruction of human weakness and self-identity, sexual objectification and violence, and social death as destruction and conflict of a class, nation, culture and nature. As for the expression, it was divided into the realistic expression of the primitive/natural and directing of an unrealistic atmosphere using a show.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.87-101
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• 2016

In this study, a variety of influence in the field of design and analysis about the value of a Grunge Design and the creative design inspirations in the field of hair design to help the development of the quality of research. The research methods use the Internet publications such as local and foreign information, analysis and related research and book form, such as the network search, library goes for consideration by a literature search. The contents of this study used review of the case and by Grunge design, expressive characteristics by color, texture and form of Grunge hair design, from 2014 to 2016 trend collections in the last three years through the analysis of design by date of the case. The result of this study is, Grunge design appearing in the areas of hair design, that are grunge anti fashion like the beauty of the disorder, the disharmony, the incomplete, the kitsch, the poverty. Although Grunge means dirt, filth, rubbish as a slang but it is valuable which was raised from the anti fashion to high fashion and alternative of main stream fashion and the hair design in modern fashion also brought. In this study, we can understand the grunge hair design in modern fashion was started from lower place as alternative and forecast the potentialities, the formativeness of the grunge design and value of the beauty and grunge anti fashion the identity and the spirit appearing steadily a modern fashion influence are reflected in our next fashion and design characteristics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권3_4호
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• pp.343-353
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• 2003

In this research, the fashion images, which expressed the same theme during the same season in four different fashion collections, were interpreted as emotional characteristics stemming from different factors according to the emotions and images of the regions where the collections were held. The theme, futurism appeared to be hackneyed and oppressive in Paris fashion which emphasized artistic representation of the theme. And futurism appeared to be expressed to be dazzling, unnatural in London fashion which was innovative and avant-garde. And the New York fashion, which accentuated practical, sportive, and elegant styles created active and graceful image about the futurism and the Milan fashion showed the balanced mixture of the three cities' images above. It is interpreted that our domestic fashion consumers think artistic, formative, original, and emotional images as hackneyed and oppressive. On the other hand, they feel comfortable, cheerful, unaffected and graceful about the images that are functional (rather than artistic), sportive, and moderately elegant. And the innovative and avant-garde images like the ones in London collection seem to make people feel unnatural, dazzled, and even depressed. In short, domestic fashion consumers think that the excessive, innovative, original, and formative fashion images appeared I London and Paris are hackneyed and dark rather than artistic, original, or dynamic. On the contrary, the moderate, practical, sportive and elegant New York images and the Milan's which equally showed the three cities' characteristics are regarded as comfortable, elegant, bright, and positive. This result indicates that the fashion market in certain regions seek shared fashion trends and the difference between the regions reflects the different interpretation of fashion themes.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권5호
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• pp.666-681
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• 2019

This study examined color trends per season and differences in color utilization between seasons with a focus on hue and tone, based on men's collections. Collected colors classified as hue and tone were subject to frequency and cross analyses according to the study subject. The study results as follows. The hues most frequently used for men's wear in S/S season were red and purple. The red hue was most frequently used even in F/W season. As for tone, blackish tone was found to be prominent, irrespective of season. The cross analysis revealed a significant difference in the main colors' hue and tone utilization between S/S and F/W seasons. In addition, more diverse tones were found to be used in S/S season than F/W season. The hue and tone trends seen in main colors of men's wear in S/S season were analyzed per year, blackish tone and light grayish tone accounted for the majority among all tones. In terms of men's wear in F/W season, blackish tone was frequently used as the main tone, while other tones were found to have a low usage frequency.