• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.1-19
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• 2024

The purpose of this study is to examine the color characteristics of menswear in different cities, focusing on the Paris, Milan, New York, Tokyo, and London collections. To answer the research question, the sampled colors were classified according to their hues and tones for frequency analysis and cross-analysis. The results are as follows: 'Red', which appeared frequently in the S/S and F/W seasons, was a core color in menswear design, and regardless of the season, 'blackish tones' were most commonly used. The cross-analysis uncovered a significant difference in the trends of hues in the F/W season between the cities. The colors that were more frequently used among the cities were as follows: 'blue-green' in the Paris collection, 'blue' and 'purple' in the Milan collection, 'purple' and 'purple-blue' in the London collection, 'yellow' in the New York collection, and 'red' and 'green' in the Tokyo collection. This study illustrates the significance of the F/W season's use of colors in menswear design and discovered through analysis that hues, rather than tones, were used to express individuality. These results are expected to be used as basic data for the analysis of menswear design trends.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.6 s.165
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• pp.837-847
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• 2007

1,098 pieces of photographs($1995{\sim}2002$) of men's suit style have been classified according to fashion images in order to examine features and change aspects with statistical analysis. The findings of examining features of the trend by year with test of homogeneity, correspondence analysis, biplots, correlation analysis and regression analysis are as follows: (a) there are significant differences on fashion images as the trend by yew with test of homogeneity, (b) there are remarkable differences on the fashion trend by year with correspondence analysis and biplots. (c) There are significant correlations for appearance among fashion images by its frequency through correlation analysis, and (d) it is assumed that fashion images are going to be gradually outstanding according to regression analysis.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.813-827
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• 2006

In this investigation, the following study was carried out for an experimental proposal of the knit item lists which were not actualized due to lack of studies. First of all, we have put the knit item titles that have been used through the document investigation, into the lists in order to clarify the original item list. Furthermore, we have pointed out the problems and the areas to be developed in the original item lists, and proposed twenty new knit item lists. By defining the design traits of each item, we have established item list which could be classified more systematically. As a result, the knit item titles of twenty newly proposed item titles are knit pull over, knit pull over top, knit top, knit t shirt, knit shirt, knit polo shirt, knit blouse, knit vest, knit hood, knit jumper, knit jacket, knit coat, knit cardigan, knit ensemble, knit cape, knit shawl, knit bikini, knit one-piece, knit pants, and knit skirt. Secondly, in order to investigate the possibility of practical use of twenty knit item lists proposed by this study, we have applied anova with repeated measurement for foreign fashion collection knit item trends of the past 10 years based on the proposed item lists. As a result, four items classified as top, shirt, cardigan, and pants had similar changes in the trend for last 10 years in S/S season while eleven items classified as pull over, pull over top, blouse, vest, jacket, coat, cardigan, ensemble, cape, shawl, and one-piece had similar trend changes for F/W season. The first significance of this study is on the experimental proposal of knit item list which could be used in the actual clothing industry and academic field. Furthermore, by defining the design traits of each knit item, it sublated the confusions brought by vocabularies in design of knit products and distribution in the industry perspective, and it made it possible to categorize the knit items correctly in knit design analysis and knit design education in academic field. The second significance shows that this study brought about positive results in the possibility of industrial academic practical use of proposed list by indicating that most of the knit designs appeared in the foreign collections in the past ten years could be correctly classified through investigational analysis.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1903-1914
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to propose an efficient and feasible global market entry strategy for the Korean apparel industry by analyzing the Italian fashion industry. In particular, the study investigated the role of foreign exhibitions and showrooms supported and organized by Italian fashion organizations. The methodology for this study was to analyze industrial reports, review previous studies and conduct in-depth interviews with 23 industry experts in Italy, Korea and LA. The results indicated that the most prominent factor in the Italian fashion industry was the fashion cluster, which is a strong and organic network of diverse fashion related areas No matter the size of the enterprise, firms can get practical, prompt and efficient support from diverse associations. The network operated by the associations provides strong support to each firm by organizing collections and exhibitions, and providing promotional activities. Showrooms and agents are another supportive "gate keeper", directly related to an enterprise's sales. However, Korean fashion firms did not have enough information or knowledge for foreign exhibitions, nor did they make aggressive promotional efforts in the global market. Despite the many fashion-related associations exist in Korea, their programs are too focused on visible accomplishments and are too oriented on "big company" and "big voice", rather than many "small firms". In conclusion, the Korean fashion industry-particularly the fashion industry in Seoul-has strong potential to become the center of the global fashion market in the future. However, the fashion support system that can act as the channel to promote firms and to meet global buyers needs to be supplemented. To feasibly create this system, government or industry associations should develop a strong and generous support system and network, and they must recognize the need for small firms to exist.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.86-105
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• 2010

Vintage fashion is a lot influenced by colors because an emotion is transmitted via images of "old feeling", "worn-out feeling" and "faded feeling" etc. Colors are visual sensation occurring at a time when lights stimulate an eye, which is a representative factor which humans first perceive when they touch objects. And colors in clothing function as a critical element which indicates an individual's impression and character as well as aesthetic sensation. In this study, I examined on the theoretical consideration and aesthetic characteristics via the previous literature on vintage fashion and colors. As an empirical study, I investigated on the colors of vintage fashion appearing in Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter Collections, Paris from Spring/Summer, 2003 to Fall/Winter 2008. As a way for study, I investigated into the total 197 vintage fashion photos and calculated their RGB values by using photoshop. And I converted the values of the colors extracted into H V/C values by using Munsell Conversion Version 9.0.6 and analyzed on Munsell System of 10 Color Notation and the PCCS colors, classifying a color scheme by visual sensation measurement. The result of analyzing on the concept of vintage fashion and its color characteristics is as follows; Vintage fashion made an appearance the most in 2003 and 2004 and its colors appeared a lot in Y, YR, R and PB lines. Color tone concentrated on black and white, achromatic color and low chroma colors in a grayish line, chromatic color. Thus, the study found that colors suitable for a "worn-out", "faded" and "old" image are properly reflected in vintage fashion rather than a clear and bright background. In a color scheme, I found contrast color and same color appearing a lot, which gave an unharmonious feeling and a smack of the country. The study reveals that the color characteristic of vintage fashion is relatively diverse and complex in color, color tone or shade and color scheme, which shows a color trend which reflects a non-constructive and complex coordination characteristic instead of a standardized simple and clear image.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.133-146
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the fusion phenomenon that appears in contemporary women's denim fashion in order to find a way to come up with a creative denim design. The methodology of this study is to research documents related to fusion phenomena and consider precedent studies to establish a criteria for analyzing fusion phenomena. The results are as follows: First, fusion phenomena in modern women's denim can be categorized into fusion of time, fusion of space, fusion of gender, fusion of culture, and fusion of genre. Fusion of time appears as fusion with the past and fusion with the future. Fusion of space appears as fusion with Asia and fusion with other regions. Fusion of gender appears as unisex, androgynous, and genderless. Fusion of culture appears as fusion with subcultures such as grunge, kidult, lingerie, hippy look, hip hop fashion, etc. Finally, fusion of genre appears as fusion of materials, fusion of style, and fusion of circumstances. Second, when analyzing the frequency of appearance for fusion phenomena, fusion of culture appeared with a frequency of 29.7%, followed by fusion of genre with 19.1%, fusion of time with 10.5%, fusion of gender with 9.9%, and fusion of space with 8.5%. When analyzing the most frequently appearing fusion phenomena by year, fusion of culture appeared the most from the year 2000 to 2004, fusion of space and time in 2005, fusion of genre from 2006 to 2007, fusion of culture again in 2008 and 2009, and once more fusion of genre appeared the most in 2010.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.3
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• pp.31-46
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to analyse the occurrence and evolution of Mao suit which is important position in the modern costume history of China and to provide a source of design inspiration to contemporary fashion designers. In the research method, literature review and case studies was conducted in parallel. For the literature review, changes of Mao suit in each age were reviewed with reference to the related documents, Chinese costume and cultural history, prior research papers and internet resources. The case analysis was qualitatively done focusing on the silhouette, color and detail of clothes in fashion collections. The scope of the study was from 1912 to 2000. The case analysis of the Mao suit applied to the contemporary fashion was made on the applications centered around 'London Collection', 'New York Collection', 'Paris Collection', 'Milan Collection' and 'Chinese Fashion Week' from 2008 to 2015. The results found that Mao suit changed into many different forms after Sun Wen designed it for the first time in 1912. This study classified it into Phase 1(1912~1927), Phase 2(1928~1965), Phase 3(1966~1977), and Phase 4(1978~2000) with historical and political issues and conformational changes in Mao suit. The frequency analysis of the cases of the fashion collections using Mao suit from 2008 to 2015 showed an increased application of Mao suit to the western collection in New York, Paris and London in 2008 due to the impact of Beijing Olympics. However, from 2009 onwards, the frequency of the utilization of Mao suit was higher in the Chinese Fashion Week and the New York Collection. This cause is explained by the fact that the designers who inspired from Mao suit in the New York Collection are American Chinese.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.266-278
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• 2018

This study investigated the transformation of the Chanel jacket by looking at clothing design and constructional components. This study explored Chanel jacket's designs from 2001 S/S to 2016-17 F/W, and collected designs from Samsung Design Net and Vogue. The study used 690 designs with the following results. First, in the silhouette of the Chanel jacket, straight silhouette and hourglass silhouette had the most; in addition, in the length, hip line and under hip line were in order. Second, in case of collar and neckline, the form of a non-collar was the most and revealed the persistence of round neckline which is the basic style of a Chanel jacket. Third, in the shape of sleeves, the loose-fit straight sleeves, wide sleeves, and cocoon sleeves appeared most often. In method of closure, button, zipper were in order, and snaps or without closure appeared. Fourth, in the form of braids, various forms such as twisted yarns, leashes, or lace were used, and patch pockets were mainly used in pockets. Chanel maintains its original design by using various methods. Chanel tried to improve activity and functionality through silhouettes, lengths, necklines, and sleeves. The unchanging expression of the world of Chanel will continue to display and inherit future value. This study can provide Chanel's unique characteristics and new ideas that can transform their origins for jacket design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.862-873
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of the Military style in the 20th century and the images of the Military look shown in recent collections. The results of this study are as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Military style includes authority, functionality, resistibility and bisexuality. Authority is represented in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Functionality is represented in pants suits and skirts suits which are comfortable and simple. Resistibility is represented in wrinkled, dirty-old and torn military items. Bisexuality is shown on the military pants suits that a skirt or a mink coat is draped over. 2) The Military look in collections are expressed in classic, romantic, sexual, sporty, avant-garde and ethnic images. Classic images are appeared in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Romantic images are represented in the military items made of pastel-tone lace or splendid colored silk. Sexual images are appeared in designs to expose or to focus in women's body. Sporty images are represented in the military items made of new materials such as cotton-fleece, cotton-jersey and tencel. They have camouflage prints, melange-gray and fluorescent colors. Avant-garde images are appeared in the deformed suits and outer made of special materials with camouflage prints, khaki, gray and black. Ethnic images are represented in wearing military and ethnic items at the same time or military items made of ethnic colors, prints and handmade details.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.27-39
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of denim dresses from the 19th century until the $20^{th}$ century and analyze those changes shown in Paris Milan London New York collections from 2001 S/S to 2013/14 F/W. The results of this study are as follows; 1) In the mid-$19^{th}$ century, the denim pants were working suits. In the 1920's, they started to be recognized as ordinary clothing and they were supplied to women in World War II. In the 1950's, denim pants stood for youth and resistance, and they became popular among teenagers. In the 1960's, hippies who protested against the Vietnamese War would wear worn-out denim pants symbolizing peace and freedom. As they became more common in the 1970's, people all around the world wore the clothes. In the 1980's~90's, the waves of high class brand fashions brought in sensualism, extravagance, reactionary tendency, and so forth. Consequently, the aesthetic values of denim dresses have connotations of practicality, resistibility, ornamentation and femininity. 2) Practicality in recent collections is represented in classic fashion which features typical details and raw denim and modern fashion which is made with glossy denim and minimized details. Resistibility is represented in avant-garde fashion which features deformed or over-layered jackets and pants with damaged denim and vintage fashion which is made with wash-out and wild stone denim. Ornamentation is represented in ethnic fashion which is made with wash-out denim and ethnic prints and romantic fashion which features details such as ruffle, frill and shirring as well as lace and flowery decorations. Femininity is represented in sexy fashion which designs to expose or to focus in women's body and elegant fashion which is made with soft and glossy denim and hourglass silhouette.