• 복식
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• 제67권2호
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• pp.52-67
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• 2017

This is the precedent study on the modern fashion design using Korean emotions, and its aim is to study the expressions in the modern fashion based on 'Jeong-Jung-Dong' idea from Korean dancing, which implicates the Korean emotion deeply among the artworks and give essence similar to the clothing. 'Jeong-Jung-Dong', a unique idea, in the Korean traditional dancing is the philosophy that involve the paradox expression, 'Movement in Silence,' which represented the emotion of Korean dancing for a long time. The main characteristics deducted in 'Jeong-Jung-Dong' were 1) the incomplete and complete by atypical, 2) the beauty of temperance by symbolism, and 3) amusing mutual relationship. Upon the analysis results of previous studies on the expressions in the modern fashion with 'Jeong-Jung-Dong', they demonstrated the atypical expressed by metaphor, symbolic expression through margin, and mutual relational table by harmony. The analysis of modern fashion expression by 'Jeong-Jung-Dong', which is a philosophical idea in the Korean dancing, could highlight the new way of looking at the clothing and systemize the theory on the Korean emotion to seek the effective expression of artistic features for the culture together with introduction of our unique emotion in the creative design process by understanding of humanitarian and philosophical ideologies to be utilized in the future Fashion Design.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.39-52
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• 2002

현대생활에서 색채가 갖는 중요성은 점차 증가일로이고, 그런 현대를 컬러 에이지라는 말로 표현한다. 생활의 모든 영역이 패션 화 되어가고 있는 요즘은, 디자인 전문가뿐만 아니라 일반인들에게도 색채에 대한 교양과 지식이 요구되고 있다. 또한, 색채는 인간 감성에 미치는 즉각적인 소구력이 형태보다도 크므로, 마케팅의 중요한 판매요인이 되기도 한다. 그러므로 색채디자인 교육은 교양과정에서도, 전문적인 디자인 교육과정에서도 매우 중요한 커리큘럼이다. 색채는 색상.명도ㆍ채도의 삼속성으로 표현한다. 그러나 디자인현장에서의 색채는 명도와 채도의 복합개념인 톤을 사용한, 휴 앤드 톤 컬러 시스템을 주로 사용하고 있다. 그러므로 색채디자인의 교육에서도 색상은 물론, 명도와 채도를 합한 개념인 톤을 교육하는 것이 매우 중요하다고 생각된다. 그러나 국내에는 휴 앤드 톤으로 이루어진 컬러 시스템의 연구가 아직 미흡하다. 따라서 색채디자인의 교육현장에서도 외국의 컬러 시스템을 교육하고, 배색교육에 있어서도 수입된 색지를 주로 사용하고 있다. 색채의 증가하는 영향력을 생각할 때, 국내에서도 색채디자인 교육에 적합한 휴 앤드 톤의 컬러 시스템을 개발하고, 그에 의거 한 색채디자인용 색지를 개발하는 것은 매우 시급한 과제라고 생각된다. 본 연구에서는 이러한 색채디자인교육의 효율화를 위한 한 시도로서, 일반적인 색채디자인교육에 활용할 수 있는 $\ulcorner$휴 앤드 톤 253 색체계$\lrcorner$를 설계하였다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.737-752
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to understand the medieval culture and medieval religious costume by analysing and grasping the formative characteristics of image of medieval religious costume in the modern fashion that were represented to the modern fashion, and also to offer materials to predict the history of fashion in the future by considering the progress of modern fashion and recognizing the fashion to be progress. To examine the image of medieval religious costume in the modern fashion, this thesis divided it into avant-garde image, symbolic image, and mysterious image. These can be summarized as follows. First, in avant-garde image, the harmony between characteristic eroticism and heterogeneous materials are expressed and the formative change of religious costume into general costume are expressed. Second, in symbolic image, the symbolic meanings of the medieval clergy man's costume is expressed in modem fashion while its religious meanings and senses are expressed with symbolic image. Third, in mysterious image, the abundant and profound lights and colors express the mysterious senses of the costume and sanctity applied with mosaic painting and stained glass techniques, utilizing the splendor jewelry, spangle and materials, and most of its image reflects exotic and embellish tendency. As a result, this thesis could be described as follows; Previous religious costume of clergy man was used as a mediator between general devotee and God in ceremony, and it was worn by the general devotee to express devotion. This religious costume was utilized in modem fashion, and it gave the avant-garde image and symbolic image of religion. In addition to it, mysterious image was expressed with exotic and embellish tendency.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.58-65
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• 2021

몸을 치장하기 위한 오브제는 인류가 시작된 원시시대부터 아주 중요한 문화였다. 사회적 지위나 부의 상징물, 또는 개인적 치장을 위한 장신구는 장식성, 화폐성, 희소성, 역사성 등의 다양한 특성을 지니며 발전해왔다. 그러나 귀중함을 중시하는 전통보다 지적 개념이 더욱 가치 있었던 20세기 후반부터 장신구 분야는 예술적 활동과 미적가치를 중요하게 생각하면서 작가중심의 표현주의적 성향을 가지게 되었다. 이와 같이 현대 장신구는 소재나 기술을 강조하던 전통적인 방식에서 벗어나 하나의 예술장르로 발전하였다. 이러한 표현주의적 성향은 예술성을 강조하면서 1960년대부터 장신구만을 위한 갤러리들이 생기기 시작하였고, 특히 이시기부터 전통적 방식에서 벗어난 실험적이고 혁신적인 많은 장신구 작품들이 전시되었다. 이처럼 장신구 전문 갤러리의 등장은 장신구가 예술의 한 장르로 발전하는데 큰 영향을 주었다. 이번 연구에서는 장신구를 전시하는 데 있어 인체와 의상의 결합을 통한 두 가지 전시유형의 연구이다. 첫 번째는 일반적인 전시방식에서 벗어나 패션쇼를 갤러리에 끌어들임으로써 관람자와의 소통을 위한 적극적 전시방법을 제시한다. 두 번째는 장신구와 의상과의 소통을 위해 의류브랜드와의 콜라보레이션 프로젝트를 기획하고 적극적 전시홍보를 위해 패션브랜드 매장에서의 전시방법을 제시한다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.737-754
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• 2015

The structural aesthetics of architecture are becoming an inspirational source for many fashion designers and have been reborn in structural fashion. This study planned to analyze the method of expression of structural aesthetics expressed in modern structural fashion design and the construction method to maximize such an effect on the basis of the construction characteristic of Santiago Calatrava as the representative architect of the structural aesthetic. According to the study, the structural aesthetics expressed in modern structural fashion design are as follows: 1) The symbolical formative aesthetic expressed by symbolical inference and analyzation; 2) the dynamic beauty of physic expressed by visual emphasis and dynamics; and 3) the asymmetric beauty of symmetry expressed by metastasis toward the boundary between balance and imbalance. In addition, to maximize structural aesthetics, we used repetition and a progressive technique based on rhythm, asymmetry, and incision-based variances, such as balance, polygon flux, and inference, and analyzation-based distortion as the structuring principle. The following expression methods for maximizing structural aesthetics were found: 1) symbolical and structural exaggeration of appearance; 2) detail technique expansion and material property diversification; and 3) the three-dimensional transformation of structure and shell expression. Structural fashion design was found to have maximized structural aesthetics by using such expression methods to secure artistic esthetics, destroy existing shapes and patterns, and create unique shapes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.66-80
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• 2013

Nomadism means 'divide share' and 'drift where allocated'. The word to express a variety of modern people without being tied to a fixed time and place, constantly moving to new areas and explore the possibility. The progress of this study, first, to research on the conceptual study of Nomadism through Deleuze's theory of art and to organize Nomadism patterns and design paradigms in modern society. Second is to analyze and investigate cases of Nomadism based on the theoretical background in a way to reinterpret to the contemporary fashion, and to suggest the formative characteristics and inherent expressiveness of Nomadism expressed in modern fashion. Theoretical considerations made through the collection data were select from ready-to-wear women's collections 2005 S/S~2013 S/S presented in 'Style.com'. The results of the analysis of the formative characteristics of Nomadism in the $21^{st}$ century fashion are 'mixed expressions of time space and gender', 'pursuit of diversity through self-dismantling', 'clothing systemization of mobile and deformable' and 'temporary amusement, lightness, an expression of the ride rules'. The inherent expressiveness of Nomadism through these types of figurative representation are 'unbounded fashion', 'multi-center, multi-functional' and 'emotional directivity'. As such, philosophy and artistic trends started Nomadism is harmoniously expressed in terms of the design transcending the boundaries of existing stereotypes.

• 복식
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• 제60권6호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2010

The cultures and traditions of Asia has the roots so deep and it is the origin of inspiration. Therefore, it is easy to find a different inspiration when designing, expecially for Western designers who are seeking European tradition and its comparison. The most distinctive feature of the Asian look is non-structural and has no clear form close to the structure of the body or mathematical ratio, but is steric with 2-Dimensional planed textiles, and has a flexible, non-structural formative characteristic related to the movable body. This is base on the vision of the universe that regards the parts as the whole. From this research, generally studying about the Asian look and its non-structural formative characteristics. The study looked closely into the aesthetic value of non-structural formative characteristics formation, with basis on the large dress regulation system of the western reasoning and rationalism and mechanism. At first, my study pointed on the dressing functionalism or Neo-classism considering emotions, Anti-Western aspect observing surrealism dressing and expressionism dressing. Second, with men and women showing similar outer shape without the equivalent element such from wearing a corset, the sexism is abolished. Finally, the designers’ inner intention of art is being delivered, from the aspect that the expression of art, size and no waste of fabric shows effort of communicating with the world, giving value to the possibility of continuance.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.613-628
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• 2013

This study aims to identify characteristics of neo-naturalism coming from periodical changes in the 21th society, culture based on naturalism and analyze the expressional and design characteristics of neo-naturalism on 2000s. For a research method, this study researched development of naturalism in fashion, and searched digital naturalism and ecology which are design paradigm effecting on neo-naturalism through literature research and preliminary study. Analyzing preliminary study on architecture, interior, fashion about digital naturalism and ecology design, concept of neo-naturalism identified and four expressional characteristics of neo-naturalism was classified, actual examples of neo-naturalism in 21th fashion were extracted and drew design characteristics. The results are as followings. Firstly, naturalism described nature as it is and developed according to the values and needs of the times. Naturalism in fashion showed natrual human body's curve, nature pattern and used natural materical focused on ideal beauty of nature. Secondly, neo-naturalism renews with the foundation of digital culture and ecology design paradigm, and focuses on the flexible possibility to express nature with digital, new media and formative art, and made the artificial nature uniting human-nature-environment as organic whole by ecology design paradigm. Thirdly, design of neo-naturalism divided four characteristics, nature's organic form, combination with the technology, ethical harmony with nature, global local design. The first characteristics of the nature's organic form are expressing silhouette of the nature's organic volume abstractly, the second ones of the combination with the technology are reinterpreting primitive nature contemporary with artificial sensibility of high technology, the third ones of the ethical harmony with nature are showing simple design and high-touch, and the forth ones of global local design are expressing cultural hybrid preserving vernacular design.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.11-20
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• 1998

상업공간에 있어서 디스플레이는 현대의 고도 산업사회에서는 대량생산, 대량유통체계의 판매촉진수단으로서 극히 중요한 분야로 대두되고 있다. 뿐만아니라 생활의 질적 향상으로 인해 다양화, 개성 화되고 있는 고객들의 요구를 만족시켜주기 위한 중요한 요소로서 그 역학이 한층 중요시되고 있다. 더욱이 상업건축물의 입면은 비주얼 머천다이징에 있어서 매장의 레이아웃을 비롯한 전시공간 설정 및 표현에 커다란 영향을 미치고 있다. 매장의 입면 유형은 정보를 제공하는 선전 소구 기능을 가짐과 동시에 외부공간구성의 중요한 요소로서의 역할을 하고 있다. 이와 같이 건축물의 입면을 이루고 있는 도입부공간은 매장의 일부이며 가로(街路)공간과도 관련되어 있어 그 기능적인 문제와 표현상의 문제를 다루는데 있어 매장과 가로의 양측 면의 관계를 고려하지 않을 수 없다. 본 연구는 내부와 외부의 절충공간으로서의 도입공간을 중심으로 매장에 있어 서 입면이 갖는 제반 특성을 파악하고 각 특성간의 상호관계를 규명하였으며, 매장의 입면유형이 매장환경에 미치는 제반요소인 구획, 유도계획, 배치계획 등과의 관계를 제 조명하려 하였다. 따라서 서울 명동소재의 패션전문매장이 현황조사를 통해 입면 유형과 비주얼 프리젠테이션과의 관계를 분석하고, 비주얼 머천다이징의 개념에 입각한 공간구성의 방향을 제시하였다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.185-199
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• 2004

This study is intended to examine Honore Daurnier's realism formativeness, review it in connection with socio-cultural conditions, analyze costume designs by a style of realism formativeness, in order to find the value. For the study, the procedure included the review of Daurnier's works and world, together with realism formativeness. Then, Daurnier's realism formativeness applied to costume designs were categorized and found the features of each style. Finally, it sought the implication of realism formativeness in costume designs. Honore Daumier, a realist of France in the 19th century, has been reputed that he pursues plain reality with a satire, uses all the conditions of humans as his object, and observes the vanity, desire, and foolishness of humans to represent his own expression techniques as cold as a stone. Realism formativeness is characterized by adherence to observing reality and engagement in reality, an effort to represent the world as it is as what we sense it without diluting or omitting it, nor any deception. The following terms can be used to describe the three styles of intentional recreation, satire on reality, and real existence; For intentional recreation in costume may be featured by the avant-garde, the pursuit of autonomy, reconstruction, rediscovery, recombination, reinterpretation, neutralized representation (reality ＋ the abstract), transformation, distortion, shock, and unexpectedness, etc. For satire on reality in costume, satirical criticism and mockery in a coexistence of time and space, dualism due to the combination of the exterior and the interior, reality reflecting the actual reality, and irony are those words. Real existence in costume may be described with objectivity, ordinariness, correctness of representing a theme, impersonality excluding subjectivity, clearness, certainness, and preciseness, etc.