• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.649-655
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• 1999

The maximum run-up heights of periodic waves are numerically investigated in this study. Incident waves are sinusoidal and enoidal waves. The maximum run-up height of enoidal wave approaches that of sinusoidal wave as the wave length decreases, while it approaches that of solitary wave as the wave length increases. If wave height is fixed, the maximum run up heights of enoidal waves are always greater than those of sinusoidal waves but smaller than those of solitary waves.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2022.05a
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• pp.83-83
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• 2022

여러 분야의 연구자들이 지진해일의 위험에 대한 경각심을 가지고, 지진해일의 발생, 전파 그리고 수리현상을 해석하기 위해 많은 노력을 기울이고 있다. 해안지역에서 직접적인 피해를 입히는 지진해일의 충격파, 처오름, 월파, 침수 등에 관한 연구에 유사한 파형 특성을 가진 고립파를 많이 사용한다. 고립파는 비선형성과 분산이 균형을 이루는 가정에서 Korteweg-de Vries(KdV) 방정식을 만족하는 안정적인 이론파이다. 고립파의 파형분포는 수심에 의해 결정되고, 일정 수심 이상에서는 지진해일을 대신해 사용할 수 있다. 그러나 수심이 낮은 천해에서는 주기와 파장이 비현실적으로 짧아짐으로 지진해일을 대신하기에는 무리가 있다. 본 연구에서는 지진해일의 처오름 특성을 분석하기 위한 1:20 불투과성 경사면이 포함된 수치파동수조를 구성한다. 먼저, 일본 NOWPHAS(Nationwide Ocean Wave information network for Ports and HArbourS)의 관측자료를 이용하여 2011 동일본 지진해일과 고립파의 파형분포를 비교한다. 그리고 다양한 파형의 지진해일 생성할 수 있게 개발된 조파방법을 수치파동수조에 도입하여 수치해석을 수행한다. 수치해석결과, 지진해일의 처오름 높이가 고립파에 비해 최대 1.8배, 최소 1.13배, 평균 1.56배 증가한다.

• Water for future
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.159-168
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• 1995

The run-up and the evolution of solitary waves on steep beaches are investigated by using a two-dimensional boundary integral equation model. The model is first used to compute the run-up heights of solitary waves on a relatively mind slope. The model is verified by comparing the computed numerical solutions with available experimental data, other numerical solutions and approximated analytical solutions. The agreement between the present numerical solutions and the other data is found to be excellent. The model is then applied to the calculation of run-up heights on very steep slopes. As far as the maximum run-up of solitary waves is concerned, the boundary integral equation model provides reasonable and reliable solutions. Finally, the evolution on steep beaches is also examined and the obtained wave heights are compared with those calculated from the Green's law.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.381-387
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• 2014

Recently the large-height swell-like waves generated in the eastern coast of South Korea have been observed frequently. The characteristics of the runup and overtopping of the large-height swell-like waves formed in deep water and attack the coast, causing damages to both lives and facilities have been studied. The correlation between spectral shape parameters and significant wave height has been investigated by analyzing long term wave spectrum data. Numerical runup experiments using MIKE21 BW Module were performed with $Q_p$, additional shape parameter, and identified the variations and characteristics of runup heights with respect to the variations of spectral shape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Hazard Mitigation
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.187-197
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• 2007

Experimental study for a submerged structure was conducted to protect coastal structures and shorelines. The rectangular submerged structure known as the most efficient shape among various submerged structures in the literature was fabricated at the nose of a rubble mound breakwater. The reflection coefficients and the run-up heights along the slope of a breakwater were measured for different significant wave heights and periods. It is found in this study that the reflection coefficient is affected more relatively by the significant wave period than the significant wave height and the run-up heights are reduced approximately 28% in terms of ${^{RU}}_{2%}$ and 26% in terms of ${^{RU}}_{33%}$, respectively, by the installation of a submerged structure inducing the interception and breaking of waves.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.30 no.5
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• pp.487-493
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• 1997

The maximum run-up heights of single waves are investigated in this study. A boundary intergral equation model is used to calculate the maximum urn-up heights of both solitary and N-waves. The effect of the bottom friction is considered in the model through a boundary layer theory. The calculated run-up heights are compared with available laboratory measurements, and other numerical and approximate analytical solutions. They are in good agreement.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.44-51
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• 1996

The accurate calculation of run-up heights of long waves along the coastline is important in the view of engineering. In this paper the run-up heights of long waves are estimated by using the cnoidal wave theory which also covers both sinusoidal and solitary waves. However, the generation and the calculation of run-up heights of cnoidal waves are difficult both in laboratory and numerical experiments. In this study, the maximum run-up heights of cnoidal waves on steep slopes are computed by using the boundary integral equation model. It has been shown that the run-up heights of cnoidal waves are less than those of solitary waves, while they are larger than those of sinusoidal waves having the same wavelengths and heights. The variation of run-up heights of cnoidal waves is not a monotonic function of the wavelength. However, the run-up heights of cnoidal waves asymptotically approach that of a solitary wave as the wavelength approaches infinity. The calculated run-up heights agreed reasonably with experimental data.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2002.05b
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• pp.1099-1104
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• 2002

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.36 no.3 s.134
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• pp.437-445
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• 2003

Since many islands are located in the South Sea, unexpected damage by tsunamis could be caused by mutual interferences between adjacent islands. In this study, the variation of run-up heights is investigated by using different crest lengths of incident waves and different distances between two adjacent islands. The run-up height sharply increases when the crest length of Incident waves is greater than the distance bewteen outer boundaries of two islands. The run-up height also increases as the distance between two adjacent islands decreases.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.3B
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• pp.345-354
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• 2008

In this present study, we made a first attempt to investigate physical transformations of incident waves in surf and swash zone and hydrodynamic phenomena of detached and submerged breakwaters. For an accurate simulation of the complicated wave deformation, Three-Dimensional numerical model with Large Eddy Simulation has been developed recently and expanded properly for the current applications, which is able to simulate an accurate and direct WAve Structure Sandy seabed interaction (hereafter, LES-WASS-3D). LES-WASS-3D has been validated through the comparison with experimental results for limited cases, and has been used for the simulation of wave run-up on sandy beach, mean fluid flows over and around submerged structures and swash zone (alongshore/rip current), and spatial distribution of wave height in wide fluid regions. In addition, a strategy of efficient deployment ($Y/L_i=1.50{\sim}1.75$, $W/L_r=0.50$) of the submerged breakwaters has been discussed.