• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.3B
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• pp.345-354
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• 2008

In this present study, we made a first attempt to investigate physical transformations of incident waves in surf and swash zone and hydrodynamic phenomena of detached and submerged breakwaters. For an accurate simulation of the complicated wave deformation, Three-Dimensional numerical model with Large Eddy Simulation has been developed recently and expanded properly for the current applications, which is able to simulate an accurate and direct WAve Structure Sandy seabed interaction (hereafter, LES-WASS-3D). LES-WASS-3D has been validated through the comparison with experimental results for limited cases, and has been used for the simulation of wave run-up on sandy beach, mean fluid flows over and around submerged structures and swash zone (alongshore/rip current), and spatial distribution of wave height in wide fluid regions. In addition, a strategy of efficient deployment ($Y/L_i=1.50{\sim}1.75$, $W/L_r=0.50$) of the submerged breakwaters has been discussed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.211-221
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• 2022

The wave runup height is one of the most important parameters for affecting the design of coastal structures such as dikes, revetments, and breakwaters. In this study, SWASH (Zijlema et al., 2011), a non-hydrostatic pressure numerical model, was used to analyze the effect of reducing The wave runup height of solitary waves by submerged and floating rectangular obstacles. It was confirmed that the SWASH model reproduces the propagation, breaking, and runup of solitary waves quite well. In addition, it was confirmed that the wave deformation of the solitary wave by submerged and floating rectangular obstacles was well reproduced. Finally, we conducted an examination of the effect of reducing the runup height of submerged and floating rectangular obstacles. Reduced runup heights are calculated and the characteristics of runup height reduction according to the dimensions of the obstacle were analyzed. The energy attenuation effect of the floating obstacle is greater than the submerged obstacle, and it is shown to be more effective in reducing the runup height.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2015.05a
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• pp.44-44
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• 2015

저수지나 하천 사면에서 발생하는 산사태와 토석류는 저수지와 하천 수체에 충격을 가한다. 이로 인해 발생하는 수면 충격파는 전파되어 반대편 제방으로 파의 처오름 또는 댐 제체위로의 물넘이로 큰 피해를 줄 수 있다. 최근 외국에서는 2차원 충격파 생성 및 전파의 기본 과정을 구명하기 위한 실험적 연구가 이뤄지고 있으며, 이들 연구들은 충격파의 발생과 전파, 사면활동 물질과 수체의 상호작용 그리고 자유 수면과 유속분표의 발달에 대한 자세한 관측 자료를 제시하고 있다. 아울러 충격파에 영향을 주는 지배 매개변수를 제시하고 있다. 하지만, 이러한 실험적 연구의 최근 진보에도 불구하고, 이들 지배 매개변수를 고려한 충격파 지배공식들은 대상 지역의 복잡한 바닥 지형이나, 평면적 지형 변화를 단순한 추정치로만 고려하게 된다. 따라서 복잡한 지형조건에서 토석류와 수체의 상호작용과 수면 충격파의 전파를 합리적으로 해석하는 데는 한계가 있다. 이 경우 수치모델링 기법을 대안으로 적용할 수 있으나, 수치모델링은 수면에서 충격파의 전파와 수중에서 토석류의 전파를 동시에 모의해야 하고, 뉴턴 유체와 비뉴턴 유체의 특성을 동시에 고려해야하므로 수치해석 연구자들에게는 하나의 큰 도전사항이다. 이 연구는 경계면 포착기법을 이용한 계산유체동력학 기법을 이용하여 사면활동과 이로 인한 정지 수역에서의 충격파의 발생 및 전파를 재현하기 위한 수치 모델링 기법을 개발하는 것이 목적이다. 사면활동과 수면의 경계면을 포착하고 위치를 정립하기 위해서 VOF (volume of fluid) 경계면 재구축 기법을 이용한다. 지배 방정식은 비압축성(incompressible) 질량 보존방정식과 나비어-스톡스(Navier-Stokes) 방정식이며, 서로 다른 유체의 상(phase)애 대한 체적분할이송방정식을 이용한다. 큰와 모의 계열의 난류 모델링 기법을 적용하여 충격파의 전파와 붕괴에 대한 난류의 영향을 고려하였다. 토석류는 비뉴턴 흐름저항 관계식을 적용하여 그 흐름특성을 재현하였다. 이들 지배방정식은 2차 정확도의 유한체적법(finite volume method)을 이용하여 해석한다. 외국의 연구자들이 관측하여 제시한 길이 11 m 그리고 폭 0.5 m의 수로에서 발생한 충격파를 수치적으로 재현하여 개발된 모형의 실제 문제에 대한 적용성을 보여준다.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.43 no.9
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• pp.801-811
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• 2010

A three-dimensional numerical model called NEWTANK is employed to investigate solitary wave run-up with an internal wave-maker on a steep slope. The numerical model solves the spatially averaged Navier-Stokes equations for two-phase flows. The LES (large-eddy-simulation) approach is adopted to model the turbulence effect by using the Smagorinsky SGS (sub-grid scale) closure model. A two-step projection method is adopted in numerical solutions, aided by the Bi-CGSTAB (Bi-Conjugate Gradient Stabilized) method to solve the pressure Poisson equation for the filtered pressure field. The second-order accurate VOF (volume-of-fluid) method is used to track the distorted and broken free surface. A solitary wave is first internally generated and propagated over a constant water depth in the three-dimensional domain. Numerically predicted results are compared with analytical solutions and numerical errors are analyzed in detail. The model is then applied to study solitary wave run-up on a steep slope and the obtained results are compared with available laboratory measurements.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.4B
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• pp.429-439
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of run-up height over sandy beach due to the shape of submerged breakwater. For the discussion on it in detail, 3-Dimensional numerical model with Large Eddy Simulation, which is able to simulate directly interaction of Wave Structure Sandy beach (hereafter, LES-WASS-3D; Hur and Lee, 2007) has been used to simulate run-up height over sandy beach as well as wave field around submerged breakwaters. Using the results obtained from numerical simulation, the effects of the shape of submerged breakwaters (crown height, crown width, crown length and submerged breakwater's slope gradient) on run-up height over sandy beach have been discussed related to the wave height distribution and characteristics of up-layer flow around ones.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.38-49
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• 2015

Past study of tsunami heavily relied on the numerical modelling using 2D Boussinesq Eq. and Solitary wave. Lately, based on the fact that numerically simulated run up heights based on solitary wave are somewhat smaller than the measured one, Leading Depression N (LDN) Wave has been elaborated, which can account the advancement of a shore line before tsunami strikes a shore. Thereafter it is reported that more accurate simulation can be possible once LDN is deployed. On the other hand, there were numerous reports indicating that stable LDN wave can't be sustained in the hydraulic model test. These conflicts between the hydraulic model tests and numerical results have their roots on the assumption made in the derivation of Boussinesq type wave model such as that wave nonlinearity is equally balanced with wave dispersiveness. Hence, in the numerical simulation based on the Boussinesq type wave model, wave dispersiveness is inevitably underestimated, especially in deep water. Based on this rationale, we developed the modified methodology for the generation of stable LDN wave in the 3D numerical wave flume, and proceeded to numerically analyze the depression effect of Hybrid Breaker on the run up height due to tsunami using the Navier Stoke Equation. The verification of newly proposed wave model in this study was carried out using the run up height from the hydraulic model test. It was shown that Hybrid Breaker consisting of three water chamber and slope at its front can reduce 13% of run up height for H = 5m, and 10% of run up height for H = 6m.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2004.08a
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• pp.273-276
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• 2004

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.29 no.3B
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• pp.289-301
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• 2009

In this work, wave run-up heights and resultant wave forces on a vertical revetment due to tsunami (solitary wave) are investigated numerically using a numerical wave tank model called CADMAS-SURF (CDIT, 2001. Research and Development of Numerical Wave Channel (CADMAS-SURF). CDIT library, No. 12, Japan.), which is based on a 2-D Navier-Stokes solver, coupled to a volume of fluid (VOF) method. The third order approximate solution (Fenton, 1972. A ninth-order solution for the solitary wave. J. of Fluid Mech., Vol. 53, No.2, pp.257-271) is used to generate solitary waves and implemented in original CADMAS-SURF code. Numerical results of the wave profiles and forces are in good agreements with available experimental data. Using the numerical results, the regression curves determined from the least-square analysis are proposed, which can be used to determine the maximum wave run-up height and force on a vertical revetment due to tsunami. In addition, the capability of CADMAS-SURF is demonstrated for tsunami wave forces acting on an onshore structure using various configuration computations including the variations of the crown heights of the vertical wall and the position of the onshore structure. Based on the numerical results such as water level, velocity field and wave force, the direct effects of tsunami on an onshore structure are discussed.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.539-546
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• 2015

In this study, we develop numerical model using the elliptic mild-slope equation for waves propagating around axis-symmetric topographies where the water depth varies arbitrarily having zero at the coastline. The entire region is divided into three regions. In the both of inner and outer regions, an existing analytical solutions are used. In the middle region, the finite element technique is applied to the governing equation. To get the solution, the methods of separation of variables, Frobenius series are used. Developed solution is validated by comparing with previously developed analytical solution. We also investigate various cases with different bottom topographies.

• Journal of Industrial Technology
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• v.21 no.B
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• pp.175-185
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• 2001

A numerical model is represented to calculate the reflected waves, the runup of waves and the wave induced velocities on impermeable slopes for the normally incident wave trains of nonlinear monochromatic wave and solitary wave. The finite amplitude shallow water equations with the effects of bottom friction are solved numerically in time domain using an explicit dissipative Lax-Wendroff finite difference method. The numerical model is verified by comparisons with the other numerical results, the measured data and asymptotic results. It is found that the uprushing and downrushing of incident waves may be accurately predicted by the present numerical model. Therefore, the present numerical model can be applicable to swells as well as long waves.