• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.324-339
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• 2021

In this study, we determined the correlation between the wave characteristics and the change in the area of Haeundae Beach, conducted regression analysis between the wave characteristics and the change in beach area, and derived a formula for calculating the change in beach area. The change in beach area was calculated by applying the derived formula to wave observation data corresponding to a period of approximately 10 months, and the formula was subsequently validated by comparing the obtained results with the observed area. It is found that the error associated with the formula for calculating the change in beach area ranges from 1.5 m to 2.7 m based on the average beach width, and the correlation coefficient corresponding to the observed area ranges from 0.91 to 0.94. Furthermore, it is observed that the change in beach area is af ected by the wave direction in the western zone, wave height in the central zone, and wave height and wave period in the eastern zone. These results can contribute to understanding the impact of a coastal improvement project on the beach area fluctuation characteristics of Haeundae Beach and the ef ectiveness of such a coastal improvement project. By applying the aforementioned derived formula to highly accurate wave prediction data, the change in beach area can be calculated and incorporated for predicting significant long-term changes in beach areas. Furthermore, such a prediction can be considered as the basis for making decisions while establishing preemptive countermeasure policies to prevent coastal erosion.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2018.05a
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• pp.197-198
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• 2018

In recent years, diversified demand for marine utilization has been increasing not only through the development projects for the utilization of the conventional coastal zone but also by the development of marine leisure sports and marine energy. It is very important to understand the characteristics of blue for safe and economical utilization of the ocean. Using the observed wave data, we derive the wave parameters to represent the irregular sea state proposed in the previous studies and examine the relationship between them to confirm the characteristics of the ocean wave.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.89-96
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• 2012

Based on the hydroelastic theory and the matched eigenfunction expansion method(MEEM), the dynamic behavior of the porous flexible net sheet and wave forces have been investigated in monochromatic waves. The net sheet is installed vertically with the submergence depth. Top end of a net sheet is fixed and its lower end is attached by a clump weight. It is assumed that the initial tension is sufficiently large so that the effects of dynamictension variation can be neglected. The boundary condition on the porous flexible net sheet is derived based on Darcy's fine-pore model and body boundary condition. The developed analytic model can be extended to the impermeable/permeable vertical plate and the impermeable flexible membrane. The analytical model was used to study the influence of design parameters(wave characteristics, porosity, submergence depth, initial tension) on the response characteristics and wave load of the net sheet.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.401-412
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• 2008

Simulations of three-dimensional numerical wave tank are performed to investigate wave force acting on a large cylindrical structure and consequent wave deformation, which are induced by bore after breaking waves. The numerical model is based on the three-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations with a finite-difference method combined with a volume of fluid(VOF) method, which is capable of tracking the complex free surface, including wave breaking. In order to promote wave breaking of the incident wave, the approach slope was built seaward of the structure with a constant slope and a large cylindrical structure was installed on a flat bed. The incident waves were broken on the approach slope or flat bed by its wave height. In the present study, all waves acting on the large cylindrical structure were limited to breaking bore after wave breaking. The effects of the position of the structure and the incident wave height on the wave force and wave transformations were mainly investigated with the concern of wave breaking. Further, the relations between the variation of wave energy by wave propagation after wave breaking and wave force acting on the structure were discussed to give the understanding of the full-linear wave-structure interactions in three-dimensional wave fields.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.510-521
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• 2008

In the study, experiments are performed in the interaction region combined with wave and current to investigate the characteristics of local scour around submarine pipelines. Wave generator and current generator are used for the experiments and two current directions were used; co-direction and counter direction to the wave. The local scour depths around the pipeline are obtained according to the various pipe diameters(D), wave periods(T), wave heights(H), and current velocities(V). The experiments show that the maximum equilibrium local scour depth increases with pipe diameter, wave period, wave height, and current velocity. Using the experimental results, the correlations of scour depth and parameters such as Shields parameter($\theta$), Froude number(Fr), period parameter, Keulegan-Carpenter number(KC), Ursell number($U_R$), modified Ursell number($U_{RP}$) and ratio of velocities($U_{c}/(U_{c}+U_{m})$) are analyzed. In the interaction region combined with waves and currents, Froude number and Shields parameter are found the main parameters to cause the local scour around the submarine pipelines and this means that current governs the scour within any limits of the currents.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.35-44
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• 2002

In this paper, the analytic studies on the wave control performance of moored pontoon-type floating breakwater are presented. A two-dimensional eigenfunction expansion method is adopted to study the motion responses and the transmission coefficients of pontoon-type floating breakwater in beam waves. The stiffness coefficients of mooring line are idealized as linear elastic spring. Comparison of the analytical results with a numerical results (FEM) shows good agreement over a wide range of frequencies. The performance of mooed pontoon-type floating breakwater is tested with various design parameters such as sectional geometry, mooring line characteristics and wave frequencies. It is found that the properly designed floating breakwater can be an effective wave control structure.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2010.02a
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• pp.66.1-66.1
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• 2010

본 연구는 부유식 방파제의 변수변화에 따른 와의 생성 및 소멸에 대하여 수리모형 실험을 통하여 분석하였다. LDV시스템을 이용하여 직사각형과 사다리꼴형상의 부유식 방파제를 흘수 변화에 따라 유속장을 수집함과 동시에 파고변화를 측정을 하였다. 실험 장비의 불충분으로 인해 방파제와 파도의 상호 간섭을 볼 수 있는 유동장 해명과 파랑변형과의 관계를 연구한 경우는 거의 없는 실정이다. 본 실험에서 그에 따른 와류 및 파랑변형에 대한 관계를 밝혀 보았다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.381-387
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• 2014

Recently the large-height swell-like waves generated in the eastern coast of South Korea have been observed frequently. The characteristics of the runup and overtopping of the large-height swell-like waves formed in deep water and attack the coast, causing damages to both lives and facilities have been studied. The correlation between spectral shape parameters and significant wave height has been investigated by analyzing long term wave spectrum data. Numerical runup experiments using MIKE21 BW Module were performed with $Q_p$, additional shape parameter, and identified the variations and characteristics of runup heights with respect to the variations of spectral shape.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.405-414
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• 2010

In the study, experiments are performed in the mixing region combined wave and current to investigate the characteristics of local scour around a slender pile. Wave generator and current generator are used for the experiments and currents are co-directions with the waves. The local scour depths around the pipeline are obtained according to the various pipe diameters, wave periods, wave heights, and current velocities. The experiments show that the maximum equilibrium local scour depth increases with pipe diameter, wave period, wave height, and current velocity. Using the experimental results, the correlations of scour depth and parameters such as Shields parameter ($\theta$), Froude number (Fr), Keulegan-Carpenter number (KC), Ursell number ($U_R$), modified Ursell number ($U_{RP}$) and ratio of velocities ($U_c/U_c+U_m$) are analyzed. In the mixing region combined with waves and currents, The Froude number of single parameters is the main parameter to cause the local scour around a slender pile due to waves and current and this means that current governs the scour within any limits of the currents.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.169-175
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• 2022

Scour in a flow field affected by waves, such as river estuaries or shallow waters, is more difficult to predict than scour in a currents. The main issue in predicting the scour around circular files, such as undersea bridges, is the maximum scour depth and the point of occurrence. In the case of two or more adjacent circular piles, the location and depth of maximum scour according to the spacing between piles and the arrangement method show a lot of difference compared to the case of a single pile. In this paper, the KC number are calculated as dimensionless variables representing the strength of the flow. And the correlation between pile gap size and relative scour depth was analyzed.