• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.11-18
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• 2002

Directional breaking waves are generated by the component wave focusing both in direction and frequency based on constant wave steepness and constant wave amplitude spectrum models. The generated breaking waves are classified in the incipient, single and multi breaking waves. The characteristics of directional breaking waves are investigated in terms of surface profile parameters of wave crest steepness and asymmetry. The evolution of breaking wave characteristics is analyzed in a view of focusing efficiency. It shows that the front steepness and vertical asymmetry play an important role in breaking process, while the crest rear steepness and horizontal asymmetry are nearly constant during the process. The superposition of directional components greatly enhances the focusing efficiency and it suggests that characteristics of directional breaking waves may significantly different from uni-directional ones.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.38-48
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• 2002

Theoretical development to generate the directional extreme waves in model basin is established based on wave focusing method. The effects of associated parameters, such as the directional range, frequency width, and center frequency, are investigated in terms of wave focusing efficiency. The two different spectral models of constant wave amplitude and constant wave slope are applied to control the wave characteristics. The wave packets simulated by theory are compared with numerical results based on Boussinesq equation and FEM. Both controls of direction and frequency spectrum are essential to focus directional waves effectively. It is noticed that wave focusing ability depends on the frequency bandwidth of spectrum rather than center frequency, and both spectral models with same parameters result in the equivalent efficiency of wave focusing.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.30 no.3 s.109
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• pp.181-187
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• 2006

In the wave spectrum distribution based on linear wave theory, the appearance of a giant wave whose wave height reaches to 30m has been considered next to almost impossible in a real sea However since more than 10 giant waves were observed in a recent investigation of global wave distribution which was carried out by the analysis of SAR imagines for three weeks, the existence of the giant waves is being recognized and it is considered the cause of many unknown marine disasters. The change of wave height distribution concerning a formation of wave train, nonlinear wave to wave interaction and so on were raised as the causes of the appearance of the giant waves, but the occurrence mechanism of the giant waves hasn't been cleared yet. In present study, we investigated appearance circumstances of the giant waves in real sea and its occurrence mechanism was analyzed based on linear and nonlinear wave focusing theories. Also, through a development of numerical model of the nonlinear $schr\"{o}dinger$ equation, the formations of the giant wave from progressive wave train were reproduced.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2005.10a
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• pp.147-152
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• 2005

선형파 이론에 의한 파랑스펙트럼 분포에 의해서는 30m 크기의 파랑은 현실적으로 거의 발생 불가능하다고 인식되어 왔다. 그러나 최근의 위성 영상을 이용한 조사에 의해 3주간의 기간 통안 25m 이상의 거대파가 10개 이상 관측됨에 따라 실해역에서 빈번히 마주칠 수 있는 현상임이 입증되었으며 이에 따라 지금까지 이유 불명으로 치부되어 왔던 많은 해양 재난이 거대파에 의해 발생했던 것으로 추정되고 있다. 거대파의 발생원인은 파군 형성과 관련한 파고분포 특성의 변화, 전파하는 파군의 비선형 공명간섭 통이 제기되고 있으나, 그 출현의 복잡성과 자료의 부족 등으로 아직 명확하게 해명되지 못하고 있다. 본 연구에서는 실해역에서 발생하는 거대파의 특성 및 선형 및 비선형이론에 근거한 거대파 발생 기구를 고찰하고 비선형 파랑전파를 모사할 수 있는 수치모형을 개발하였다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.222-227
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• 2007

Formation of freak waves is studied in deep water from transient wave packets propagating on current. Those waves are obtained by means of dispersive focusing. This process is investigated by solving both linear and nonlinear equations. The role of nonlinearity is emphasized in this interaction.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.1-6
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• 2002

Extreme waves are generated in a model basin based on directional wave focusing. The targeted wave field is described by double summation method and it is applied to serpent-type wavemaker system. The extreme crest amplitude at a designed location is obtained by syncronizing the phases and focusing the directions of wave components. Two distinguished spectrums of constant wave amplitude and constant wave steepness are adapted to describe the frequency distribution of component waves. The surface profile of generated wave packets is measured by wave guage array and the effects of dominant spectral parameters governing extreme wave characteristics are investigated. It is found that frequency bandwidth, center frequency, shape of frequency spectrum and directional range play a significant role in the wave focusing. In particular, the directional effect significantly enhances the wave focusing efficiency.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2007.05a
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• pp.570-576
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• 2007

수중천퇴가 있는 지형을 통과하며 변형하는 파랑을 실험한 Vincent와 Briggs (1989)의 실험조건을 수치모의하여 파랑과 흐름의 상호작용 효과를 연구하였다. SHORECIRC 흐름모형을 결합한 파랑모형 REF/DIF 1과 SWAN, 그리고 파랑과 흐름을 동시에 수치모의 할 수 있는 FUNWAVE를 이용하여 수중천퇴상을 통과하며 변형하고 또 다시 수중천퇴상에서 발생한 쇄파에 의해 발생된 쇄파류에 의해 변형하는 규칙파를 수치모의하였다. 수중천퇴상에서 쇄파가 발생할 때 잉여파응력의 급격한 변화에 따른 강한 유사제트류가 발생하고, 이 흐름은 수중천퇴후면의 파집중현상을 방해하여 파랑을 천퇴중심축으로부터 바깥쪽으로 굴절시켜, 파고를 상대적으로 감소시키는 역할을 한다. 이러한 역학은 실험결과와 본 연구의 수치모의를 통해 확인할 수 있었고, 이는 파랑쇄파류의 파랑변형에 미치는 역할의 중요성을 확인시켜주는 것이다. 규칙파 모의에 한계가 있는 SWAN과 규칙파 특성상 강하게 나타나는 중복파의 잉여파응력계산에 한계가 있는 REF/DIF 1과 달리 FUNWAVE를 이용한 수치모의는 실험결과와 완벽히 일치하였으며, 수중천퇴 후면에 발생하는 쇄파류와 쇄파류에 의한 쌍 vortex의 발달과정을 잘 보여 주었다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1993.07a
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• pp.26-28
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• 1993

해안구조물의 설치나 해안환경 문제를 다룰때 가장 필수적인 것이 그 지역에서의 정확한 파랑자료이다. 파랑은 천해로 전파해 옴에 따라 수심 및 지형변화로 인한 회절 및 굴절을 겪으면서 변하게 되므로 복잡한 지형을 가진 해안에서의 정확한 파랑계산은 용이한 일이 아니다. 이러한 파랑변형에 대한 연구는 Berkhoff(1972)가 완경사방정식을 발표한 후 큰 진전을 보이게되는데 이로 인해 종래 개별적으로 다루던 굴절과 회절을 함께 취급할 수 있게 되고 파향선이 교차할때 생기는 불합리한 에너지의 집중(caustics)을 해결할 수 있게 되었다. (중략)

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.31 no.1 s.117
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• pp.21-27
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• 2007

The wave load and its influence on the response of offshore structure have been well investigated through the statistical approach based on the linear theory. The linear approach has a limitation to apply the extreme condition such as extreme wave, which corresponds to extreme value of wave spectrum. The main topic of present study is to develop an efficient numerical method to predict wave load induced by extreme wave. As a numerical method, finite element method based on variational principle is adopted. The frequency-focusing method is applied to generate the extreme wave in the numerical wave tank. The wave load on the bottom mounted vertical cylinder is investigated. The hydroelastic response of the vertical cylinder is also investigated so as to compare the wave loads with the rigid body case in the extreme wave condition.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.12-17
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• 2010

Oscillating Water Column (OWC) device has been widely employed in the wave energy conversion. Wave Focusing Device (WFD) is proposed to be helpful for improving the operating performance of OWC chamber. In the present paper, a Numerical Wave Tank (NWT) using two-phase VOF model is utilized to simulate the generation and propagation of incident regular waves, water column oscillation inside the chamber. The NWT consists of the continuity equation, Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes equations and two-phase VOF functions. The standard k- turbulence model, the finite volume method, NITA-PISO algorithm and dynamic mesh technique are employed. Effects of WFD on the operating performance of OWC chamber are investigated numerically.